My wife's bike (gash, heavy traditional touring bike about twenty
years old) has a tyre-driven dynamo which consists of an aluminium
bottle-shaped body with, at the top of the "neck", a knurled wheel
which rubs on the tyre; connections to the lights come out of the
bottom of the bottle. By way of maker's marks there is just a "U",
plus stuff about being made in Germany, but my review of newsgroup
postings suggests that it's a "bottle dynamo", possibly made by Union?
There are two problems with it: (1) it makes a noise like an air-raid
siren when in use (only a slight exaggeration); (2) it adds enough
resistance (says my not-unfit wife) to turn the machine into an
exercise bicycle. Power output is fine, though. I have an identical
unit on my bike, which is much quieter and adds only a little
resistance.
I've taken the "bottle" off, undone the only visible nut, securing the
knurled wheel in position, and done the usual sort of cleaning and
greasing, without obvious effect.
Is there any other maintenance I can do on the thing that might cure
the problem?
--
Henry Law <>< he...@thelaws.demon.co.uk
I used to be h...@thelaws.demon.co.uk
Manchester, England but I had to move because of spam
Ideally, the unit should be set along a radian of the wheel- the axis of
the dynamo should point to the hub. Ensure that it's not hitting any tire
knobs which raise hell with the bearings.
Set it reasonably close to the tire such that there is a firm contact when
the latch is released.
It is also possible the unit's sleeve bushings are shot. If so, at
certain speeds the armature rattles all over the place instead of
spinnning quietly. Does it have more sideplay that your own?
You're right, that's a Union, now called Marwi, unit. Good midrange
dynamo overall.
Henry Law wrote:
--
Yellow Jersey, Ltd
http://www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Cheers,
Frank
Just to add my .01 € worth...
>
> Ideally, the unit should be set along a radian of the wheel- the axis of
> the dynamo should point to the hub.
Easiest (IMO) way to verify that is to tie a piece of string to the axle
of the wheel, then pull out the string along the dynamo when it's in the
'on wheel' position and align the dynamo's axle to the string.
...
> It is also possible the unit's sleeve bushings are shot. If so, at
> certain speeds the armature rattles all over the place instead of
> spinnning quietly. Does it have more sideplay that your own?
Or (simply...) that the axle has moved inside the housing
(longitudinal), so that the moving magnet part is rubbing against
something. Again, test it against your dynamo by spinning it by hand.
>
> You're right, that's a Union, now called Marwi, unit. Good midrange
> dynamo overall.
>
Depends - there are several models, and I personally wouldn't bother too
much with any extensive maintenance on the cheaper ones. Depending on
what you're willing to spend (regarding hassle with old one, amount of
night riding, money available), I'd recommend one of the following (in
ascending order):
- Axa HR (Netherlands)
- Nordlicht (Germany)
- B&M 6 (www.bumm.de)
- B&M S6 (www.bumm.de)
- SON (hub generator, www.nabendynamo.de)
Or either http://simon.trinhall.cam.ac.uk/bike/dynotest.html or, if your
German is up to it,
http://experte.kt2.tu-harburg.de/fahrrad.html#beleuchtung
HTH
Bye
Markus
>A Muzi wrote:
... and other people wrote too.
Thank you very much for the hints and tips. What a pleasant group
(and interesting too); I'll keep watching!
What was "the usual sort" of cleaning and greasing?
That generator has plain bearings (that is, not ball bearings)
supporting the shaft. I haven't used one of that brand long enough to
wear it out, but I've heard that the top bearing does wear first. There
aren't any provisions for re-lubricating it. Perhaps it's porous
bronze, forming its own oil reservoir, but apparently that's not
sufficient for infinite life.
However, in _most_ cases where husband and wife share identical
equipment, the wife's is not likely to wear out sooner. Men tend to put
on more miles, especially in adverse conditions (like darkness). So I'm
wondering if it's simply a dry bearing.
In addition to double-checking the mounting alignment, as others
suggested, I'd be sure to lubricate that top bearing. It does require
removing the drive pulley to get access. (I've heard of folks drilling
an oil hole through that pulley, and re-lubing regularly using a needle
lubricator.)
I wonder if a shot of penetrating oil might be good, before a follow-up
with light machine oil.
Please be sure to let us know what works!
--
Frank Krygowski frkr...@cc.ysu.edu
Carlos