Speedplay X-2 vs. X-3
Scott L.
I know the axle is cromo on the X3 vs. stainless on the x2. From their
website, Speedplay says there is one bushing and one cartridge on the x2
vs. two cartridges and one needle bearing on the x2. OK so far.
What I don't understand is that the lean angle on the X2 is listed at 37
degrees vs 35 degrees for the X3. And the float is listed as 37 degrees
for the X2 vs. 34 for the X3. Is the axle longer on the X3? I was
under the impression that the pedal body was the same for both, so the
axle length would be the only thing that could change the lean angle.
And if the pedal body is the same for both, why would the float be
different, assuming the cleats are the same, which the website indicates
is the case?
Is this just marketing FUD, or is there a difference in the pedal body
and/or cleat between the X2 and X3??
Scott L.
Mark Schadler
dot's allow as much rotation.
>>>Mark Schadler<<<
><}}'> ><}}'> ><}}'> ><}}'> ><}}'>
><}}'> ><}}'>
"Once you have
ruled all of the possibilities, the truth, however improbable, must be
what's left"
ComutrBob
I don't have a direct answer to your question, but I was really ticked when I
was trying to set up a second bike identical to my "main" bike and went with
X-2 pedals rather than the X-1s on my "main" bike -- to save a few bucks. I
assumed the X-2s were identical. They're not. The spindles are longer. I
can't imagine why, but they are. It's not a big deal, but I was trying to be
quite precise in matching setups as closely as possible. I notice that the
X-2s are much more difficult to exit than the X-1s using the same cleats and
shoes. Can't imagine why that is, either.
FWIW,
Bob C.
Scott L.
photos of all the Speedplay pedals.
In comparing the X-2 and X-3, there is a very definite difference between
the pedal bodies that could account for the float difference, and I'll
assume the axles on the X-3 are slightly longer, which would cause the
cornering clearance difference.
Performace has the X-3 for $89 vs. $165 for the X-2. For close to half the
price of the X-2's, I think I try the X-3s. Considering that the cleats
alone retail for $36, it seems worth trying them out. If later I think the
X-2s are worth the extra money I'll sell the X-3's and get the X-2's.
Scott L.
Someone
The only difference between the X1 and X2 is that the X1 has a Ti axle, and the
X2 has a stainless steel axle - the X1 also has a 185lb rider weight limit. The
X3 is constructed differently, uses a cromo axle and a bushing instead of two
cartridge + 1 needle bearing. I am not sure why the exit would be different -
were you using the same shoes? If not, maybe the second pair has the cleat
installed improperly (too tight) or maybe there is crap stuck in the pedal which
prevents the springs from latching on...
personally, I thought the price on the X1's was a tad excessive... I also weigh
more than 185, so I went with the X2's (I also opted to purchase them with longer
spindles - you can do that with the X1, X2 or frog pedals - helps if you have big
feet)
Mark McMaster
>
> Are you sure you don't mean x2 and x3?
>
> The only difference between the X1 and X2 is that the X1 has a Ti axle, and the
> X2 has a stainless steel axle - the X1 also has a 185lb rider weight limit.
The spindle on the X1s is actually a few millimeters shorter
than on the X2s. This increase cornering clearance
slightly, although it was probably done more for weight and
cost savings (not to mention that it slightly decreases the
bending stress on the spindle, made more important by using
titanium in place of steel).
Mark McMaster
MMc...@ix.netcom.com
Bill Lloyd
"Scott L." <sco...@lasal.net> wrote in message
news:3A158A4C...@lasal.net...
> I looked at http://www.performancebike.com which has very clear hi-res
> photos of all the Speedplay pedals.
>
> In comparing the X-2 and X-3, there is a very definite difference between
> the pedal bodies that could account for the float difference, and I'll
> assume the axles on the X-3 are slightly longer, which would cause the
> cornering clearance difference.
>
> Performace has the X-3 for $89 vs. $165 for the X-2. For close to half
the
> price of the X-2's, I think I try the X-3s. Considering that the cleats
> alone retail for $36, it seems worth trying them out. If later I think
the
> X-2s are worth the extra money I'll sell the X-3's and get the X-2's.
How much will you be riding them? The X2's use bearings throughout, and the
X3's use bushings. I have used X2's for years and they've been great. I've
seen some problems with X3's (shot bearings, etc.) that Performance did
warranty, but IMO the pedals are significantly less from a quality
standpoint. Your "test and swap" will end up costing you a lot more than
the price difference, IMO.
I don't think the X1's are worth it. Mainly because I'm uncomfortable
having Ti in axles or spindles. I don't think it's the best application...
-B
ComutrBob
>having Ti in axles or spindles. I don't think it's the best application...
>
I've been riding a set of X-1s for 10,000 miles/year for the last five years
and I've had no problems with them whatsoever. They do require periodic
re-greasing which is a simple operation. So would the X-2s. I weigh 165 lbs
and I love to sprint and to hammer 'till I see stars on smaller hills.
Absolutely no problem with the pedals.
But I just got a set of X-2s for a second bike and, aside from my slight
aggravation at a difference in spindle length, they seem just as good as the
X-1s.
If I were going to go buy just one set of Speedplays for just one bike, I'd buy
X-2s.
Bob C.
Scott L.
future.
I went ahead and bought the X-3's. Yes, the pedal body is different. The
slot is cut shorter around the pedal body, meaning you release sooner.
Let's face it, 34 degrees vs. 37 degrees of float is not normally going to
be an issue unless you are a freak with a terrible pedaling style. Where
this could make a difference is if you are a really wild sprinter and like
to really throw your bike around. There, I could see a situation where you
would release from an X-3 but not and X-2 or X-1.
The X-3 has a bushing and a bearing, the X-2 and X-1 have better quality
cartridge/needle bearings. The X-3 has a phillips head screw covering a
grease port on the outside of the pedal body. I used my Manitou grease gun
to shoot some grease in there, and it worked great. The bearings are
smooth, but a little stiff. We'll see if they loosen up as they break in.
I've been told the spindle is a little longer on the X-3, whcih is why the
cornering clearance is slightly less. I have nothing to compare it to. It
isn't an issue as far as Q-factor, since the cleats have a wide side-to-side
adjustment range.
The cleats are identical to the X-2 and X-1. You have to install the
baseplate using shims, and then install the cleat onto the baseplate. This
is the part about these pedals that really sucks, IMHO. It takes seven
screws to install the cleat. Once you install the cleat, if you want to
adjust the fore/aft movement, you have to remove four screws totally to
remove the cleat, and loosen the three screws holding the baseplate, adjust,
re-tighten, and re-install the cleat. Hey Speedplay, ever hear of ALLEN
HEAD screws? For the price of these, you would think they could use Allen
heads instead of Phillips head screws, at least for the three holding the
baseplate to the shoe. Once these have been used for a while I can imagine
you'll be getting out the drill to remove the screws.
The first thing I noticed when riding was that I needed to lower my saddle.
I have been using Ritchey Road SPD's, and Speedplays definitely put your
shoe sole closer to the pedal spindle. The next thing I noticed was that
my right foot was rotating quite a bit during each pedal revolution. I used
to notice this when I rode the old Mavic pedals with the swiveling baseplate
ten years ago. Since I switched to SPDs with almost no float my foot didn't
rotate, and the joint took up the rotation. I'm hoping the Speedplays will
relieve some minor knee problems I've been experiencing lately. I tried ten
years ago to train the leg/foot to not rotate, but I have some kind of issue
in there that causes that foot to just want to move about 10 degrees per
revolution.
CV2572
>The cleats are identical to the X-2 and X-1. You have to install the
>baseplate using shims, and then install the cleat onto the baseplate. This
>is the part about these pedals that really sucks, IMHO. It takes seven
>screws to install the cleat. Once you install the cleat, if you want to
>adjust the fore/aft movement, you have to remove four screws totally to
>remove the cleat, and loosen the three screws holding the baseplate, adjust,
>re-tighten, and re-install the cleat. Hey Speedplay, ever hear of ALLEN
>HEAD screws? For the price of these, you would think they could use Allen
>heads instead of Phillips head screws, at least for the three holding the
>baseplate to the shoe. Once these have been used for a while I can imagine
>you'll be getting out the drill to remove the screws.
>
The Phillips head screws are used to prevent over-torqueing. It is a PITA, but
only needs to be done until you have it right (maybe two-three times?). Make
sure there's grease on the threads and you'll be able to remove them when
necessary.
Robin Hubert
Someone
"Scott L." wrote:
> to shoot some grease in there, and it worked great. The bearings are
> smooth, but a little stiff. We'll see if they loosen up as they break in.
Part of the stiffness may be due to o-ring drag, and is normal - there is an
o-ring around the spindle on the inboard side of the pedal to prevent gunk from
getting into the bearings.
Mark Schadler
X/2 setup so they were all the way in (pushing the shoe away) or else the shoe
would rub. I can't imagine using the X/1 if it is shorter, since my foot would
rub. Anyone else have this problem?
Mark
Paul...@webtv.net
Speedplay Home Page
Address:http://www.speedplay.com/home/indexhm.html
Dan Connelly
(ie 100's of grams) difference in mass send riders into a
credit card slinging frenzy, yet potential differences in transmission
efficiency associated with skimping on pedal bearings fails
to induce much interest.
A 1% difference in transmission efficiency is much, much, much more
important than a 1% difference in mass -- total mass, bike + rider.
The latter affects only rolling resistance, potential energy and inertia, while the
former affects everything. And wind resistance tends to be more
important than all the other energy dissipation mechanisms two combined.
BTW, I have no data on the relative transmission efficiency of the Speedplays.
Dan
Someone
you with the standard length x/2's (cleat all the way inward, foot rubbing crank)
so I exchanged them for a longer spindle version (there are three lengths - +1/8,
+1/4, and +1/2, I think)
Dan Connelly
position with X/2s ; moving them towards the center of their range results
in knee pain. If I had gotten the Ti cleats, it might well be the case
that I wouldn't be able to achieve an acceptable position.
This is my summary of the Speedplays :
X/1 : not worth the price -- when you are paying much more than $1/gram for
mass savings, it's time to visit http://www.analyticcycling.com/ and
run some numbers to see how much time your saving. That will sober
you up.... (on order 1 second per pound per hour on the flats from
rolling resistance, maybe 20 seconds per pound per hour on steep
uphills. Divide by approx 450 for a gram.)
X/2 : good choice
X/3 : bearings are lower quality. This is MUCH, MUCH more important than
a few grams. It effects transmission efficiency, reliability, and
durability. The X/3->X/2 jump is a worthwhile one.
Dan
Baird Webel
Dan Connelly <djco...@ieee.org> wrote:
>
>This is my summary of the Speedplays :
>
>X/1 : not worth the price -- when you are paying much more than $1/gram for
> mass savings, it's time to visit http://www.analyticcycling.com/ and
> run some numbers to see how much time your saving. That will sober
> you up.... (on order 1 second per pound per hour on the flats from
> rolling resistance, maybe 20 seconds per pound per hour on steep
> uphills. Divide by approx 450 for a gram.)
>
>X/2 : good choice
>
>X/3 : bearings are lower quality. This is MUCH, MUCH more important than
> a few grams. It effects transmission efficiency, reliability, and
> durability. The X/3->X/2 jump is a worthwhile one.
>
The thing I really like about the X-3s is their lubing system. It is much,
much easier to just unscrew a screw to get to lube the pedal than to pull
the cap off and put their plastic luber in, which never seems to work very
well. I tend to use X-3s on all but my racing bike because of this
difference.
Baird