I have found that after riding my White Industries MTB Ti rear hub for
6 times it has begun to have some axel play in it. I loosened the set
screws that hold the axel in place and took all the play out of it but
one ride later I'm finding some more play in it. Has anyone had a
similar experience? Any comments would be appreciated before I complain
to White directly.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff Lawrence
This problem needs to be in the FAQ. I've had similar problems with with
White rear hub. I've replaced two sets of bearings and one ti axle with
steel. My ultimate fix will be to give my wheels to my wife, who is much
lighter and less agressive, and build up some wheels with King hubs (when
they finally arrive). As a first guess, I would say that your bearings
are shot. This is a result of a poor hub design. I've heard from my LBS
that the new White hub has five sets of bearings, and shouldn't suffer
from axle play. YMMV.
Glenn
>This problem needs to be in the FAQ. I've had similar problems with with
>White rear hub. I've replaced two sets of bearings and one ti axle with
>are shot. This is a result of a poor hub design. I've heard from my LBS
>that the new White hub has five sets of bearings, and shouldn't suffer
>from axle play. YMMV.
right. your mileage won't vary much. The fact is that the White Ti rear
cassette hub is the single worst product I've ever been stupid enough to buy.
Glenn is right on when he mentions "poor hub design". It is NOT the fault of
the bearings but rather that the little tiny set screws just aren't up to the
task of keeping the bearing where they are supposed to be on the axle. And no,
it isn't the fault of the Ti axle like White Ind claims. IME, the problems
are exactly as bad with the CroMo version of their axle. Bottom line is that
this hub is VERY expensive and doesn't work anywhere near as well as even
Alivo or Nashbar house brand hubs for that matter. AVOID them folks.
mike
--
Michael Taffe, Ph.D * mta...@ucsd.edu
Dept. of Psychiatry, UCSD *
(619) 534-6955 * http://psy.ucsd.edu/~mtaffe/personal.html
: >This problem needs to be in the FAQ. I've had similar problems with with
: >White rear hub. I've replaced two sets of bearings and one ti axle with
I think you should contact WI and they will send you a cromo axle to
replace th Ti. I had to do the same and have since ridden thousands of
happy miles.
Duncan
t...@laplaza.org
<much un-White feelings snipped>
>
>right. your mileage won't vary much. The fact is that the White Ti rear
>cassette hub is the single worst product I've ever been stupid enough to buy.
>Glenn is right on when he mentions "poor hub design". It is NOT the fault of
>the bearings but rather that the little tiny set screws just aren't up to the
>task of keeping the bearing where they are supposed to be on the axle.
A local racer I know had his father machine tiny flat spots on the
axle corresponding to the set screw locations, and has had no problems
since.
Glenn
> I think you should contact WI and they will send you a cromo axle to
> replace th Ti. I had to do the same and have since ridden thousands of
> happy miles.
>
> Duncan
> t...@laplaza.org
huh? you pay a premium price for a ti hub to have it replaced with a
cheaper chromo hub?
khanh
I didn't read the original post, but I have white ti casette hubs on
both my bikes, over 2 1/2 years of hard riding. The only problem I have
had is after about a year, external dirt or more likely grease from the
bearings, work it's way into the spring and pawls and caused one of the
hubs to start hanging up. I E-mailed White and got a same day reply
saying that new(improved, hold their shape better) leaf springs and set
screws were on the way. I don't see this as a problem with the hub,
since I feel that once a year maintenance on something like this is
acceptable. A hint for those who are looking for a tool to remove the
axle(it comes out very hard) is to use the square end of a socket
extension to drive the axle out. Make sure your hub is secure, like up
on a couple of wooden blocks.
Steven
>screws were on the way. I don't see this as a problem with the hub,
>since I feel that once a year maintenance on something like this is
>acceptable. A hint for those who are looking for a tool to remove the
I submit that one or more of the following obtain:
1) you are light
2) your idea of "hard riding" differs considerably from mine
3) you don't mind bearing play
4) your are one *lucky* consumer
I weigh 175 lbs. and have raced Expert off-road for 6 years.
I'm an average descender among the expert class, which means
I can go downhill pretty fast, but I'm in control, so I don't
end up chowing wheels and breaking fork crowns.
Bill