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Cold Weather Cable Lube
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Jay Beattie
Dec 7, 2011, 10:20:33 PM12/7/11
to
My brake and shift cables are getting sticky in the cold weather. Is
there a light, cold weather lube that would be good for this
application. I'm using Phil and/or a teflon in lithium lube now.
-- Jay Beattie.
there a light, cold weather lube that would be good for this
application. I'm using Phil and/or a teflon in lithium lube now.
-- Jay Beattie.
Harry Brogan
Dec 7, 2011, 10:26:31 PM12/7/11
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had any issues with cables sticking. Here's the link....
http://www.purpleextreme.com/
atriage
Dec 7, 2011, 10:33:53 PM12/7/11
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cold?
--
AMuzi
Dec 7, 2011, 10:57:37 PM12/7/11
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Rock-n-Roll is perfect for that. Impressive stuff.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Harry Brogan
Dec 7, 2011, 11:25:39 PM12/7/11
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On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 03:33:53 +0000, atriage <atr...@satriage.net>
wrote:
I did a little research and talked to the owners of Purple Extreme.
And this is the same lubricant that's used on north sea oil rigs for
alot of their cables and gears. I have noticed one things about this
product. My chain wear is a LOT less and it's also extremely quiet
when I ride.
As for the temperature thing. I have been out riding when it's been
-20F and had absolutely NO issues with any cables or gears being
sluggish.
I ride in some rather odd and, sometimes, extreme weather conditions.
I am definitely NOT just a "fair weather" rider so I am always on the
lookout for products that can handle the abuse I dish out.
Currently I am riding a Trek Transport and it's has already been
outfitted with a lot of extras. Some new and some that have yet to be
tested in extremes.
wrote:
And this is the same lubricant that's used on north sea oil rigs for
alot of their cables and gears. I have noticed one things about this
product. My chain wear is a LOT less and it's also extremely quiet
when I ride.
As for the temperature thing. I have been out riding when it's been
-20F and had absolutely NO issues with any cables or gears being
sluggish.
I ride in some rather odd and, sometimes, extreme weather conditions.
I am definitely NOT just a "fair weather" rider so I am always on the
lookout for products that can handle the abuse I dish out.
Currently I am riding a Trek Transport and it's has already been
outfitted with a lot of extras. Some new and some that have yet to be
tested in extremes.
DougC
Dec 8, 2011, 9:30:50 AM12/8/11
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Next, wipe on pure teflon powder, used dry.
http://www.spurlocktools.com/id39.htm
No stiction at all, because there's no liquid involved (-plus a bunch of
other reasons, that I already posted a while back-).
Lou Holtman
Dec 8, 2011, 11:46:35 AM12/8/11
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Op 8-12-2011 4:20, Jay Beattie schreef:
Even medium quality outer cables have teflon liners. If used with
stainless steel inner cables what would lube add other than attract dirt?
Lou
stainless steel inner cables what would lube add other than attract dirt?
Lou
landotter
Dec 8, 2011, 12:14:26 PM12/8/11
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bottles from the rep, I'll likely just use any dry lube.
thirty-six
Dec 8, 2011, 10:00:49 PM12/8/11
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Standard metal lube has been GT85 which I think is a graphite and
teflon mix. It works a little while, but needs constant re-
application.
Harry Brogan
Dec 8, 2011, 10:27:03 PM12/8/11
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unless it's incredibly wet weather, it's good for three to six months.
Jay Beattie
Dec 8, 2011, 10:53:56 PM12/8/11
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the existing housings since I've been greasing for years, mostly with
good results in weather above freezing.
-- Jay Beattie.
thirty-six
Dec 8, 2011, 11:58:19 PM12/8/11
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On Dec 9, 3:27 am, Harry Brogan <hbroga...@NOSPAMyahooNOSPAM.com>
wrote:
It's been a long time since I've used GT85, because Weldtite cycle oil
works in all the temperatures I ride in without clogging and there's
no doubt to its effectiveness and I'll likely use synthetic motor oil
when I dripped the last drop of Weldtite oil. It's been a long time
since I used the GT85, I believe it became more useful each time it
was applied. In other words, the service interval could be extended
without frictional and wear effects. I did ride a high milage and
the initial applications were likely around six weekly intervals, but
IIRC I did manage with intervals of at least 4 months or 4000 miles
before I actually gave it up and switched to a more traditional and
longer lasting oil lubricant in the most and using silicone for the
lined brake cables.
Just remembered, on my rear derailleur cable I used a 3in1 silver can
of graphite based lubricant.
In fact lumplead or graphite has long been used for lubricating wire
ropes. There's no reason to use an alternative for control cables.
It's used for lubricating locks and comes as a dry powder for that,
although it would be better to get a graphite block and just drag the
inner wire through it. Look to a wire rope supplier or ship's
chandlers to get a lump of lumplead.
wrote:
> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 19:00:49 -0800 (PST), thirty-six
>
>
works in all the temperatures I ride in without clogging and there's
no doubt to its effectiveness and I'll likely use synthetic motor oil
when I dripped the last drop of Weldtite oil. It's been a long time
since I used the GT85, I believe it became more useful each time it
was applied. In other words, the service interval could be extended
without frictional and wear effects. I did ride a high milage and
the initial applications were likely around six weekly intervals, but
IIRC I did manage with intervals of at least 4 months or 4000 miles
before I actually gave it up and switched to a more traditional and
longer lasting oil lubricant in the most and using silicone for the
lined brake cables.
Just remembered, on my rear derailleur cable I used a 3in1 silver can
of graphite based lubricant.
In fact lumplead or graphite has long been used for lubricating wire
ropes. There's no reason to use an alternative for control cables.
It's used for lubricating locks and comes as a dry powder for that,
although it would be better to get a graphite block and just drag the
inner wire through it. Look to a wire rope supplier or ship's
chandlers to get a lump of lumplead.
thirty-six
Dec 9, 2011, 12:07:34 AM12/9/11
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around a pulley. Without lubrication the wire will wear, dumping
steel dust into the housing. The lubricity of the housing then does
not matter as it is speckled with microscopic steel fragments. Drag
then becomes noticable and the inner wire becomes at least polished in
that area. Eventually, if not regularly cleaned out, the cable will
either bind or become so weakened it snaps.
Lou Holtman
Dec 9, 2011, 11:43:13 AM12/9/11
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Op 9-12-2011 6:07, thirty-six schreef:
Another post that does not make sense to me. I often wonder if you ride
bike at all.
Lou
bike at all.
Lou
thirty-six
Dec 9, 2011, 2:24:32 PM12/9/11
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them. Try it yourself.
James
Dec 9, 2011, 2:58:42 PM12/9/11
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solidify?
If there was water inside the outer, and temperatures fell below
freezing, I guess your cables would likely stick.
--
JS.
Jay Beattie
Dec 9, 2011, 4:36:25 PM12/9/11
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stickiness is suggestive of poor lubrication rather than cables frozen
in place with water. I'm going to re-cable the bike in the not too
distant future and give up lubes altogether. I think Lou is right that
nothing is needed, and with SS corrosion is not a real problem -- so
I'm not so sure that even a light oil is beneficial.
-- Jay Beattie.
Lou Holtman
Dec 9, 2011, 5:10:22 PM12/9/11
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crossbike included. When installed new friction with outer cables with
a teflon liner and a stainless steel inner cable is non existent. Dirt
can mess things up, but using a lube is not a solution for that in
most cases. You better clean the inner cable. There are two critical
areas if you look at a road bike. The cableguide underneath the bottom
bracket shell and the last piece from the last cablestop to the RD.
The cableguide underneath the bottom bracket is easily cleaned with a
firm brush and soap from time to time. The outer cable from the last
cablestop to the RD can be lifted from the cablestop without detaching
the innercable from the RD. Move the outer cable along the inner cable
and clean the part of the innercable that is usually inside the
outercable. That is only 20 cm or so. Move it all back and you are
done. If the liner of the outercable is worn it's time for new cables
because lubing is only a solution for a short period of time. This
happens first to that last piece to the RD. Most of the times only
replacing this last piece is enough.
Lou
kolldata
Dec 9, 2011, 6:25:41 PM12/9/11
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FL's Dry Lube works as a freeing agent then lubes slickly...
how's Purple and R&R work there ?
With FL DL, a drop or two (hahahha) on a cables open end, work into
housing with the old in and out...pppppppppresto ! cable renewt.
Seems the cable prob is usually at the end regions, or maybe in the
kink where yawl have slidified soap grease buildup
how's Purple and R&R work there ?
With FL DL, a drop or two (hahahha) on a cables open end, work into
housing with the old in and out...pppppppppresto ! cable renewt.
Seems the cable prob is usually at the end regions, or maybe in the
kink where yawl have slidified soap grease buildup
Jay Beattie
Dec 9, 2011, 6:38:54 PM12/9/11
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slotted, so I can lube the entire shift cable run without removing the
cable from the RD -- or clean it, as the case may be.
What about running WD40 down the housing as a solvent to remove old
lube? I don't think that would harm plastic inner linings.
-- Jay Beattie.
kolldata
Dec 9, 2011, 6:17:35 PM12/9/11
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pisss
or Finish Line Wax with Teflon 'dry lube' summer spring ect...
excellent on sliding low speed low temp mechanisms eg clean door lock
mechanisms, renewt with CRC 'HD' silicone spray.
Lou Holtman
Dec 10, 2011, 3:36:49 AM12/10/11
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Op 10-12-2011 0:38, Jay Beattie schreef:
Yes you can run WD40 down the housing. It doesn't harm the lining and it
doesn't leave anything stick. I do it regularly on my ATB's. If it well
get rid of the already present sticky stuff I don't know. I would invest
in new housing.
Lou
doesn't leave anything stick. I do it regularly on my ATB's. If it well
get rid of the already present sticky stuff I don't know. I would invest
in new housing.
Lou
Peter S.
Dec 11, 2011, 12:42:15 AM12/11/11
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Shimano use in their SP-41 cable housings); it lubricates, doesn't
attract dirt or moisture, repels water, acts like a sealant, doesn't
attack or swell o-rings or cable housing, doesn't stiffen up even when
very cold. Silicone grease can be many things, but just get a tube of
silicone grease from the plumbers section since it is cheap and is
likely to have all the right properties.
The usual cable winterizing procedure at my LBS is; flush the cable
housing with Silicone oil to get all the muck out. Apply some silicone
grease on the wire and make a sealing with silicone grease at each end
of the cable housing.
A spray of silicone oil will usually unstick wires and prevent them
from freezing up for a while. It is a quick solution since it can be
done with the cables attached, but it doesn't last as long as using
silicone grease.
--
Regards
DougC
Dec 11, 2011, 3:56:40 PM12/11/11
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On 12/10/2011 11:42 PM, Peter S. wrote:
> On 8 Dec., 04:20, Jay Beattie<jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
>> My brake and shift cables are getting sticky in the cold weather. Is
>> there a light, cold weather lube that would be good for this
>> application. I'm using Phil and/or a teflon in lithium lube now.
>>
>> -- Jay Beattie.
>
> The best solution is to use Silicone grease (the stuff that e.g.
> Shimano use in their SP-41 cable housings); it lubricates, doesn't
> attract dirt or moisture, repels water, acts like a sealant, doesn't
> attack or swell o-rings or cable housing, doesn't stiffen up even when
> very cold....
> On 8 Dec., 04:20, Jay Beattie<jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
>> My brake and shift cables are getting sticky in the cold weather. Is
>> there a light, cold weather lube that would be good for this
>> application. I'm using Phil and/or a teflon in lithium lube now.
>>
>> -- Jay Beattie.
>
> The best solution is to use Silicone grease (the stuff that e.g.
> Shimano use in their SP-41 cable housings); it lubricates, doesn't
> attract dirt or moisture, repels water, acts like a sealant, doesn't
> attack or swell o-rings or cable housing, doesn't stiffen up even when
>
The problem with grease is that it is an oil and a thickener. Eventually
(in warm temperatures) the oil runs off, leaving the thickener
behind--which is not a lubricant itself.
Peter S.
Dec 11, 2011, 5:29:14 PM12/11/11
to
isn't well suited for gear or brake wires. This is why I, my LBS and
Shimano recommends _Silicone grease_, which isn't a grease in the same
sense as normal bicycle grease, as the perfect solution for
lubricating gear wires and cable housing; it prevents freezing,
corrosion, water ingress since it repels water and acts like a
waterproof seal, it lubricates, doesn't attack or swell rubber o-rings
or the cable housing, it doesn't separate or coagulate, doesn't stain,
is non toxic, it has low chemical reactivity but high thermal
stability, so it doesn't decompose easily because of age or chemicals
or oxidation, and it doesn't attract dirt the same way as regular oil
or grease does, nor does it stiffen up when cold.
All in all, Silicone "grease" is the perfect lubrication and anti-
corrosion agent for bicycle wires no matter what the weather, which is
why bicycle cable makers like Shimano or Campagnolo supplies it with
their cable sets. It is superior to hydrocarbon based oils or greases;
Chain oil or WD40 may lubricate a gear wire well, but only for a short
while, then the eg. wax in the WD40 or the attracted dirt will clog up
the cable housing and increase friction considerably. The mixture of
oil and dirt also works as an abrasion agent so the wire will start to
cut into the housing.
The Silicone grease plumbers uses for sealing faucets or o-rings etc,
is usually of the right consistency (NLGI 2-3) and can be had quite
cheap. Tubes are better than tubs.
--
Regards
DougC
Dec 12, 2011, 5:41:26 AM12/12/11
to
On 12/11/2011 4:29 PM, Peter S. wrote:
> On 11 Dec., 21:56, DougC<dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
>> On 12/10/2011 11:42 PM, Peter S. wrote:
>
>>> The best solution is to use Silicone grease (the stuff that e.g.
>>> Shimano use in their SP-41 cable housings); it lubricates, doesn't
>>> attract dirt or moisture, repels water, acts like a sealant, doesn't
>>> attack or swell o-rings or cable housing, doesn't stiffen up even when
>>> very cold....
>>
>> The problem with grease is that it is an oil and a thickener. Eventually
>> (in warm temperatures) the oil runs off, leaving the thickener
>> behind--which is not a lubricant itself.
>
> Yes, that is the problem with normal hydrocarbon based grease.
And with silicone grease, too--because it is an oil with a thickener
> On 11 Dec., 21:56, DougC<dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
>> On 12/10/2011 11:42 PM, Peter S. wrote:
>
>>> The best solution is to use Silicone grease (the stuff that e.g.
>>> Shimano use in their SP-41 cable housings); it lubricates, doesn't
>>> attract dirt or moisture, repels water, acts like a sealant, doesn't
>>> attack or swell o-rings or cable housing, doesn't stiffen up even when
>>> very cold....
>>
>> The problem with grease is that it is an oil and a thickener. Eventually
>> (in warm temperatures) the oil runs off, leaving the thickener
>> behind--which is not a lubricant itself.
>
> Yes, that is the problem with normal hydrocarbon based grease.
added, just like any other grease.
from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease
"Silicone grease is a waterproof grease made by combining a silicone oil
with a thickener. Most commonly, the silicone oil is
polydimethylsiloxane and the thickener is amorphous fumed silica. ..."
>
> All in all, Silicone "grease" is the perfect lubrication and anti-
> corrosion agent for bicycle wires no matter what the weather, which is
> why bicycle cable makers like Shimano or Campagnolo supplies it with
> their cable sets.
IF you want silicone grease that doesn't harden in cold temps, you have
to buy it specifically formulated for that-
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/Details.aspx?prod=01889770&type=PROD
Peter S.
Dec 12, 2011, 12:26:48 PM12/12/11
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On 12 Dec., 11:41, DougC <dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
>
> And with silicone grease, too--because it is an oil with a thickener
> added, just like any other grease.
The point isn't that some kind of "soap" is used in Silicone grease,
>
> And with silicone grease, too--because it is an oil with a thickener
> added, just like any other grease.
but that Silicone grease has a high thermal stability over a wide
range of temperatures so that it doesn't separate even when very warm
(or cold).
> It still gets solid in the cold though.
> IF you want silicone grease that doesn't harden in cold temps, you have
Ordinary Silicone grease usually have working minimum temperatures
around -40 to -50 degrees Celsius. That is far lower working
temperatures than most ordinary greases, and very few people ride
bicycles when it is below -35 degrees Celsius (-95F) and even if they
did, their Silicone grease would still work when their bearing grease
was frozen solid.
No need for Molykote Silicone grease unless you ride in temperatures
between -50C to -73C (-122F to -163.4F)
Silicone grease is a very good and cheap option for lubricating
bicycle cables. It is also a proven lubrication when it comes to
avoiding sticking or frozen cables in the winter.
--
Regards
Radey Shouman
Dec 12, 2011, 1:48:29 PM12/12/11
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"Peter S." <phs...@gmail.com> writes:
> On 12 Dec., 11:41, DougC <dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
>>
>> And with silicone grease, too--because it is an oil with a thickener
>> added, just like any other grease.
>
> The point isn't that some kind of "soap" is used in Silicone grease,
> but that Silicone grease has a high thermal stability over a wide
> range of temperatures so that it doesn't separate even when very warm
> (or cold).
>
>> It still gets solid in the cold though.
>> IF you want silicone grease that doesn't harden in cold temps, you have
>> to buy it specifically formulated for that-http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/Details.aspx?p...
>
> Ordinary Silicone grease usually have working minimum temperatures
> around -40 to -50 degrees Celsius. That is far lower working
> temperatures than most ordinary greases, and very few people ride
> bicycles when it is below -35 degrees Celsius (-95F) and even if they
> did, their Silicone grease would still work when their bearing grease
> was frozen solid.
> No need for Molykote Silicone grease unless you ride in temperatures
> between -50C to -73C (-122F to -163.4F)
For the benefit of US readers: -35C is actually -31F; it's helpful to
> On 12 Dec., 11:41, DougC <dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
>>
>> And with silicone grease, too--because it is an oil with a thickener
>> added, just like any other grease.
>
> The point isn't that some kind of "soap" is used in Silicone grease,
> but that Silicone grease has a high thermal stability over a wide
> range of temperatures so that it doesn't separate even when very warm
> (or cold).
>
>> It still gets solid in the cold though.
>> IF you want silicone grease that doesn't harden in cold temps, you have
>> to buy it specifically formulated for that-http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/Details.aspx?p...
>
> Ordinary Silicone grease usually have working minimum temperatures
> around -40 to -50 degrees Celsius. That is far lower working
> temperatures than most ordinary greases, and very few people ride
> bicycles when it is below -35 degrees Celsius (-95F) and even if they
> did, their Silicone grease would still work when their bearing grease
> was frozen solid.
> No need for Molykote Silicone grease unless you ride in temperatures
> between -50C to -73C (-122F to -163.4F)
remember that -40F is -40C.
-50C = -58F
-73C = -99F
--
James
Dec 12, 2011, 4:18:07 PM12/12/11
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http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1014/low-temperature-viscosity-limits
Regular engine oil has a pour point of -33 F, or -36 C. I would think
twice before riding if it was that cold.
"Conventional mineral-oil industrial greases" Low-temp Limit, -30 F.
For bicycles in Antarctic and Arctic conditions...
http://www.sovereign-omega.co.uk/Omega-66-Heavy-Duty-Low-Temperature-Grease.html
Or perhaps..
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/molykote_news_33BearingGrease_Auto.asp
My guess is still that there is moisture in with the grease that is
freezing, not that the grease and oil that Jay has is freezing.
--
JS.
kolldata
Dec 12, 2011, 4:01:33 PM12/12/11
to
no grease ! silicone FLUID
Jay Beattie
Dec 12, 2011, 4:38:10 PM12/12/11
to
>
> Regular engine oil has a pour point of -33 F, or -36 C. I would think
> twice before riding if it was that cold.
>
> "Conventional mineral-oil industrial greases" Low-temp Limit, -30 F.
>
> For bicycles in Antarctic and Arctic conditions...
>
> http://www.sovereign-omega.co.uk/Omega-66-Heavy-Duty-Low-Temperature-...
> Regular engine oil has a pour point of -33 F, or -36 C. I would think
> twice before riding if it was that cold.
>
> "Conventional mineral-oil industrial greases" Low-temp Limit, -30 F.
>
> For bicycles in Antarctic and Arctic conditions...
>
>
> Or perhaps..
>
> http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/molykote_news_33BearingGrease_...
>
> My guess is still that there is moisture in with the grease that is
> freezing, not that the grease and oil that Jay has is freezing.
Or I have just reached the tipping point with crap build-up. Also, my
> My guess is still that there is moisture in with the grease that is
> freezing, not that the grease and oil that Jay has is freezing.
brake cable is one of those 90 cent POS sale table items. It may be
made of hemp instead of SS.
-- Jay Beattie.
kolldata
Dec 12, 2011, 5:13:34 PM12/12/11
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>
> - Show quoted text -
HOLY COW Jay, snot like the cables on which you rely are expensive top
line.
basically, counter the BS, winter is short, cables cheap, fluid
shifting possible using -0 weight lubes
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/lubricants/lubrication/ecatalog/N-9ip
thirty-six
Dec 12, 2011, 6:01:17 PM12/12/11
to
bike along the beach as a daily activity, you are better served with
galvanised wire, which has a sel-lubricty and is generally stronger.
"T0m Sherm@n >
Dec 12, 2011, 8:13:32 PM12/12/11
to
Not competing in the Tour de Hudson Bay this upcoming January?
--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731°N, 83.985007°W
I am a vehicular cyclist.
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