Replacing UG freehub with FH-290

[Joerg]

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk stripping out the
aluminum thread?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

[avag...@gmail.com]

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/93/IraqiEOD.jpg

[AMuzi]

Shimano says the cassette body to hubshell bolt gets
35~50nm. Grease threads first.

If you intend to swap the new cassette body into your old
hubshell, there are various spacers and seals for the back
side of the cassette body/outer face of the hubshell which
vary slightly by year/model. Ensure the cassette body
doesn't drag on them.

Yes, check that the rim is centered over the locknuts. You
may and likely will have to adjust that.

Running six or seven sprockets on a modern 8-9-10 cassette
body will require some spacers behind the low gear and of
course re-use the six speed spacers between the sprockets
with new HG type sprockets. The HG high gear will be too
close to your 2d sprocket so add the splined steel spacer
from an older Shimano cassette under it.

Now's a good time to thoroughly clean out your hub and
finish the rebuild with new balls and fresh grease.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Joerg]

On 2016-02-13 06:03, AMuzi wrote:
> On 2/12/2016 7:38 PM, Joerg wrote:
>> Folks,
>>
>> Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on
>> my trusty Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since
>> they don't make the UG hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32
>> which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on the pouch and it is
>> about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock ring
>> which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with
>> and without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
>> FH-M290 so I figured they'd all be the same. But not sure.
>>
>> The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020
>>
>> Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the
>> wheel. It's ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am
>> perfectly content with the six sprockets I had on the old UG
>> hub.
>>
>> Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold
>> the freehub in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No
>> problem but sounds awfully high. Should I use that number or
>> does that risk stripping out the aluminum thread?
>>
>
> Shimano says the cassette body to hubshell bolt gets 35~50nm. Grease
> threads first.
>

Thanks, that sounds like similar number. I always use Liqui-Moly paste
on threads. Shimano has some clear grease in there.

> If you intend to swap the new cassette body into your old hubshell,
> there are various spacers and seals for the back side of the cassette
> body/outer face of the hubshell which vary slightly by year/model.
> Ensure the cassette body doesn't drag on them.
>

This one only has one very thin cupped ring that looks like stainless
steel. I'll grind off the rim if that interferes.

> Yes, check that the rim is centered over the locknuts. You may and
> likely will have to adjust that.
>

Having no truing tools and little experience in that area I hope I'll
get away with loosening all the spokes to the left 1/4 turn and
tightening all the right ones 1/4 turn. Being an MTB rider I don't care
about a slight imperfection in the wheel even though this is my road bike.

> Running six or seven sprockets on a modern 8-9-10 cassette body will
> require some spacers behind the low gear and of course re-use the six
> speed spacers between the sprockets with new HG type sprockets. The HG
> high gear will be too close to your 2d sprocket so add the splined steel
> spacer from an older Shimano cassette under it.
>

I believe the FH-290 is a 7-speed hub. What I did when my last UG
sprockets wore out is I bought a 7-speed MTB cassette and hacked it
apart, then used the individual sprockets with the arrows lined up, with
the old UG spacers in between. I'll probably keep doing that until the
last Wippermann 5/6-speed wide chain is used up and later throw the 7th
sprocket back in with the smaller spacers. I left out the 24T cog and
sometimes that would be nice to have. Got a Sedis 7-speed chain from a
friend and later I could use KMC 8-speed chains of something similar.

> Now's a good time to thoroughly clean out your hub and finish the
> rebuild with new balls and fresh grease.
>

Already cleaned. I was planning on doing that anyhow because the rear
started to develop some play. But no new balls, they look fine.

Of course, problem #2 has reared its head. The dust seal which seems to
be built into the FH-290 cassette does not fit. Its diameter is too
large. I can't run the bike sans dust seal out here because of the dry
dirt roads in summer where the rear hub is in a constant brown plume. So
I may have to cram some greased-up neoprene in there and hope for the
best. There is always something ...

[Joerg]

So it's in there now. Had to move the center about 0.200" which meant
re-dishing. It wobbles a wee bit but ok to ride. The smallest sprocket
in back grumbles a bit when riding hard, for whatever reason.

As a dust seal I crammed in a grease-up leather gasket, held in place by
the cassette lock. Of course I didn't have the correct OD spacers for
the center move so now I can't get the sprockets off without taking the
axle out. Oh well. As grandpa Kettle said I'll fix that ... one of these
days.

If someone else gets into the same situation where a vintage Shimano 600
EX hub wears out it looks like the STX-RC or also called FH-M290 works
after some minor mods. You need to be inventive with the dust seal
because the old one doesn't fit plus in most cases like mine it is often
completely worn away anyhow. The hub doesn't seem to be of same quality
as the old UG hubs since it has some play in the bearings even when new.

Other: When doing the mod I realized that the Gatorskin tire began to
show some thread so I replaced it. Got 2534 miles out of this one,
can't complain. If these just had better side walls.

[John B.]

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg <ne...@analogconsultants.com>
wrote:

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02) states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a 9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N搶 (305 - 434 in. lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.
--
cheers,

John B.

[Joerg]

I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That felt like a lot
for an aluminum threads even though it's a long one. The new freehub has
a slight play in the bearings. That was a bit disappointing. The old one
didn't until I crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no longer the
21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a brewpub :-)

[AMuzi]

Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side bits
securely on oiled threads, adjust from the left side such
that there's the slightest trace of play out of bike and no
play when skewer is closed. Running it loose will give fast
and uneven wear.

[Joerg]

The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the rim there is
nothing. The play is in the freehub body and only the cassette rocks a
little, not the wheel. That's what my MTB freehub started doing after
1000mi and then around 1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the
start but some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.

[AMuzi]

Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform. It's
much more likely that the total spacing of your cassette
sprockets and spacers is too thin and so the lockring
doesn't fully compress them.

[Joerg]

I made sure of that, the sprockets sit there quite tight. You can also
feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub
doing that.

But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
(somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
I can find it back.

Yesterday the bike rode just fine and the beer was good. I just hope
I'll never experience a growler detonation in the panniers. The pressure
that builds in there up during a ride is enormous.

[Sir Ridesalot]

On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 10:24:36 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

>> my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
>> 1500mi it failed on me

Snipped

>You can also feel the play when the sprocket stack is off. It's the FH-M290 freehub doing that.
>
> But I just ride and see. If it fails a replacement freehub is cheap and
> easily mounted. It's just that it took me a while to find one that
> (somewhat) fits to replace an old 600 EX freehub. When this happens I
> always enter the info into a little file here on the computer network so
> I can find it back.
>

You'll come back and complain that the thing failed after little use. On the original you say you felt play at 1000 miles and total failure at 1500 miles. That 500 miles isn`t that long.

A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.

Cheers

[Joerg]

No, that was on the MTB. Its Formula freehub began to fail after 1000mi.
I don't remember when it fully failed, could have been before 1500mi but
was within year of bike purchase and thus covered under warranty. The
replacement is developing some play as well but more slowly and now I am
approaching 3k miles on that bike.

The road bike freehub lasted much longer but I didn't have any more UG
freehubs so I had to wing it. I'd have gone for a new rear wheel but
nowadays they have deep rims and the thick tubes won't fit those, on
account of their short Presta valve stems.

> A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.
>

Actually kludges seem to last long. The more crude they are the longest :-)

But who cares, after the Saturday wrench session I made all the mods
needed so swapping in another freehub of same type should take me much
less than an hour next time. The main reason why it took over 2h this
time was that I discovered the tire to be almost through and those
Gatorskins are built too tight. I still feel some pain in my thumbs from
getting it on the rim and I'd never attempt a flat fix on the raod with
these. But since the thick tubes I never get flats so not an issue.

[Sir Ridesalot]

Well if I road under the extreme conditions and in the remote areas you claim to I'd be concerned about qa kludged freehub transfer failing out there. OYMV

Cheers

[Joerg]

On 2016-02-15 12:12, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
> On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 1:12:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
>> On 2016-02-15 07:56, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

>>> A lot of times kluges don`r work properly or for long.
>>>
>>
>> Actually kludges seem to last long. The more crude they are the
>> longest :-)
>>
>> But who cares, after the Saturday wrench session I made all the
>> mods needed so swapping in another freehub of same type should take
>> me much less than an hour next time. The main reason why it took
>> over 2h this time was that I discovered the tire to be almost
>> through and those Gatorskins are built too tight. I still feel some
>> pain in my thumbs from getting it on the rim and I'd never attempt
>> a flat fix on the raod with these. But since the thick tubes I
>> never get flats so not an issue.
>>
>> -- Regards, Joerg
>>
>> http://www.analogconsultants.com/
>
> Well if I road under the extreme conditions and in the remote areas
> you claim to I'd be concerned about qa kludged freehub transfer
> failing out there. OYMV
>

What's so kludged about the freehub transfer? The only kludge in there
right now is washers with too much OD because I didn't have time to make
new ones. Only relevant when I need to swap the cassette and by then
I'll have made the correct sizes.

The road bike doesn't see extreme conditions. The occasional bush trail
section is considered normal out here. It's not an MTB although I often
wish it was a cyclocross bike.

[John B.]

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg <ne...@analogconsultants.com>
wrote:

As the R.H. wheel bearing is in the freehub the wheel is suspended by
a bearing in the left side of the hub and the bearing in the freehub.
If the freehub wiggles it would seem that the entire wheel would be
loose as the freehub is attached to the wheel hub with 30 ft. lbs. of
torque it would seem that it would be fairly solidly mounted to the
wheel.

If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner freehub "hub"
then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace the bearings -
I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these things :-)

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
or
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=howfix_freehub
for details.

Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the freehub and (I
believe) does not sell parts for it.
--
cheers,

John B.

[Joerg]

The freehub is solidly torqued down at 30 lbs-ft. It's the outer ring of
the freehub having play against its body.

> If the freehub body is excessively loose on the inner freehub "hub"
> then you could disassemble the freehub "hub" to replace the bearings -
> I believe that there are 50 pieces, /8" balls in these things :-)
>
> See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
> or
> http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=howfix_freehub
> for details.
>
> Note that Shimano does not recommend rebuilding the freehub and (I
> believe) does not sell parts for it.

And I'll never attempt doing that when I can buy a new one for less than
$20 :-)

Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub is with shims
and obtaining those will probably not be easy and will cost:

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99421

[AMuzi]

Given that Shimano freehub bodies have been robotically
assembled with robot inspection for thirty years in
staggeringly high volume, the rate of error is vanishingly
small. It's possible of course, but I haven't seen a new
not-correct Shimano brand freehub body, tight or loose,
since UG.

[Joerg]

That's what I assumed. I just don't know how "loose" is "too loose".
Guess I'll just ride and see. If it doesn't get worse over the first
1000mi it should be ok. I've kept the bag, just in case. Main reason is
that the freehub before this one failed that way, became looser, then
started skipping and jamming within less than 1500mi total. But that was
MTB usage and it was a Formula hub.

Now I'll have to find a brewing NG to inquire how much rough trail
riding a stainless steel growler can take before risking KABOOM :-)

[AMuzi]

On 2/16/2016 10:13 AM, Joerg wrote:
> On 2016-02-16 07:45, AMuzi wrote:
>> On 2/16/2016 9:39 AM, Joerg wrote:
>>> On 2016-02-15 18:14, John B. wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 07:24:53 -0800, Joerg
>>>> <ne...@analogconsultants.com>

>>>>> On 2016-02-14 10:17, AMuzi wrote:
>>>>>> On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
>>>>>>> On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg
>>>>>>>>>> <ne...@analogconsultants.com>

-snip snip snip change subject to beer explosion-

> Now I'll have to find a brewing NG to inquire how much rough
> trail riding a stainless steel growler can take before
> risking KABOOM :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vEIBg7WPaI

[Joerg]

Cool :-)

But ... it happens.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/calgary/village-brewery-recalls-growler-bottles-over-explosion-risk-1.2585407

http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/exploding-tired-hands-growler.331468/

We had it happen back in the 80s but it was bottle fermentation. Brewed
beer, filled into sturdy flip-top bottles, stored them behind the head
board of one of the guys' bed. Some time after midnight ... *BOOM* ...
*POP* ... *KAPOW* ... despite the fact that he was a hockey player who
was normally not scared of anything he said he almost wet his pajamas
and thought the final day of reckoning had come. In the morning there
was beer and glass all over him and glass shrapnel buried in the plaster
of the walls.

[AMuzi]

marketing opportunity for beer helmets

[John B.]

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 07:39:01 -0800, Joerg <ne...@analogconsultants.com>

I was down to my local bike shop yesterday and they have a number of
Shimano rear wheels on display. Out of curiosity I checked four
different wheels and in all cases the freehub had no play at all that
one could feel with the fingers. None.
--
cheers,

John B.

[ucl...@luns.org]

On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:38:44 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
> Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub is with shims
> and obtaining those will probably not be easy and will cost:

No need to worry about obtaining shims - play is removed by removing shims, not adding. Even if you did need additional shims though, your old freehub has a few of them.

I've swapped in a three of these 7 speed freehubs and they've all had a slight bit of play in them. I wouldn't worry about it. The bearing does not rotate under load, and the play is suppressed by the reaction to pedalling forces.

Jobst used to argue that the entire torque load through a freehub ratchet is supported by only one pawl, but that's only be true if variations in pawl spacing are larger than bearing tolerance. I've suspected that Shimano deliberately left a little bit of bearing slop to ensure this wouldn't be the case.

As for axle/dust shield issues, I've actually found it less expensive to buy complete old-stock FH-M290 hubs off of eBay than to buy just the freehub body itself. This gets you an axle with the appropriate seals to match what's in the freehub.

[AMuzi]

Robots are pretty darned reliable where the assembly process
has inline robotic inspection. Shimano's production
engineering is first rate, these are not like the lathe
factory a friend visited in China where a team of general
labor were hand-scraping the ways, checking with a
straightedge. I have my beefs with Shimano but this sort of
thing they do very well, better than anyone especially
considering the volume.

[Joerg]

So are you guys saying that Shimano freehubs should never have any play?
Even the older STX-RC? It came in the original sealed pouch with Shimano
papers and all.

[Joerg]

On 2016-02-16 23:03, ucl...@luns.org wrote:
> On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:38:44 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
>> Probably the only way to remove play from inside a freehub is with
>> shims and obtaining those will probably not be easy and will cost:
>
> No need to worry about obtaining shims - play is removed by removing
> shims, not adding. Even if you did need additional shims though, your
> old freehub has a few of them.
>

The old one is so toast it probably wouldn't even come apart. Something
went majorly ka-crunch in it.

> I've swapped in a three of these 7 speed freehubs and they've all had
> a slight bit of play in them. I wouldn't worry about it. The bearing
> does not rotate under load, and the play is suppressed by the
> reaction to pedalling forces.
>

Sounds like some play is normal then?

> Jobst used to argue that the entire torque load through a freehub
> ratchet is supported by only one pawl, but that's only be true if
> variations in pawl spacing are larger than bearing tolerance. I've
> suspected that Shimano deliberately left a little bit of bearing slop
> to ensure this wouldn't be the case.
>

Except Andrew and John said they usually don't encounter any play in
Shimano hubs. Maybe it's different on new versions.

> As for axle/dust shield issues, I've actually found it less expensive
> to buy complete old-stock FH-M290 hubs off of eBay than to buy just
> the freehub body itself. This gets you an axle with the appropriate
> seals to match what's in the freehub.
>

True, but I despise spoke jobs, having a hard time truing the wheel
afterwards. It's just the road bike so not too much trail dust.
Eventually I'll put MTB seals on there. So far I fashioned my own for
the drive side, using a greased-up leather plumbing seal. That sits
under the cassette lock nut and looks like nothing could get in there.
On the left side there's still the original seal. That's worn so I'll do
something there as well. But at least now I can ride the bike again.

Next ride I'll try that same hill to see that this new hub doesn't go
ka-crunch on it like the previous one did :-)

[ucl...@luns.org]

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 7:20:08 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
> > No need to worry about obtaining shims - play is removed by removing
> > shims, not adding. Even if you did need additional shims though, your
> > old freehub has a few of them.

> The old one is so toast it probably wouldn't even come apart. Something
> went majorly ka-crunch in it.

I think it would still come apart just the same, crunched or not, as long as there hasn't been water intrusion to rust the outer race onto the driver. Any binding from broken pawls is deeper in the freehub body than the shims are. But it's a moot point; you wouldn't need those shims.

> > I've swapped in a three of these 7 speed freehubs and they've all had
> > a slight bit of play in them. I wouldn't worry about it. The bearing
> > does not rotate under load, and the play is suppressed by the
> > reaction to pedalling forces.
>
> Sounds like some play is normal then?

Seems like it to me.

> > Jobst used to argue that the entire torque load through a freehub
> > ratchet is supported by only one pawl, but that's only be true if
> > variations in pawl spacing are larger than bearing tolerance. I've
> > suspected that Shimano deliberately left a little bit of bearing slop
> > to ensure this wouldn't be the case.
> >
>
> Except Andrew and John said they usually don't encounter any play in
> Shimano hubs. Maybe it's different on new versions.

The 8/9/10 speed freehubs I've looked at have had no perceptible play, but three out of three M290 freehubs that I'd paid close enough attention to, had their little bit. I'm guessing tolerances have tightened up with newer bodies as the narrower sprocket spacing would be more sensitive to the play.

> > As for axle/dust shield issues, I've actually found it less expensive
> > to buy complete old-stock FH-M290 hubs off of eBay than to buy just
> > the freehub body itself. This gets you an axle with the appropriate
> > seals to match what's in the freehub.

> True, but I despise spoke jobs, having a hard time truing the wheel
> afterwards. It's just the road bike so not too much trail dust.
> Eventually I'll put MTB seals on there. So far I fashioned my own for
> the drive side, using a greased-up leather plumbing seal. That sits
> under the cassette lock nut and looks like nothing could get in there.
> On the left side there's still the original seal. That's worn so I'll do
> something there as well. But at least now I can ride the bike again.

I wasn't suggesting to replace the hub with a new one, only that the new hub can be a source for a freehub body and other parts along with it. Put the new hub in a vise, and you can remove the freehub body from it to put on your wheel.

> Next ride I'll try that same hill to see that this new hub doesn't go
> ka-crunch on it like the previous one did :-)

Here's hoping it doesn't. :)

-Luns

[John B.]

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 07:10:16 -0800, Joerg <ne...@analogconsultants.com>

Well, although I believe that "freehub" is a Shimano specific word, if
you don't like Shimano freehubs there are others that make freehubs.
The first device that might be called a freehub was manufactured in
1938 :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

[AMuzi]

And just to be clear, the Shimano design necessitates a
trace of play (the Campagnolo format does not). That said,
runout is not only very small but quite uniform over
millions of iterations.

[Joerg]

On 2016-02-17 15:51, ucl...@luns.org wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 7:20:08 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:

[...]

>>> Jobst used to argue that the entire torque load through a
>>> freehub ratchet is supported by only one pawl, but that's only be
>>> true if variations in pawl spacing are larger than bearing
>>> tolerance. I've suspected that Shimano deliberately left a little
>>> bit of bearing slop to ensure this wouldn't be the case.
>>>
>>
>> Except Andrew and John said they usually don't encounter any play
>> in Shimano hubs. Maybe it's different on new versions.
>
> The 8/9/10 speed freehubs I've looked at have had no perceptible
> play, but three out of three M290 freehubs that I'd paid close enough
> attention to, had their little bit. I'm guessing tolerances have
> tightened up with newer bodies as the narrower sprocket spacing would
> be more sensitive to the play.
>

That is comforting to know. Meaning I didn't get a defective one (it was
new).

>>> As for axle/dust shield issues, I've actually found it less
>>> expensive to buy complete old-stock FH-M290 hubs off of eBay than
>>> to buy just the freehub body itself. This gets you an axle with
>>> the appropriate seals to match what's in the freehub.
>
>> True, but I despise spoke jobs, having a hard time truing the
>> wheel afterwards. It's just the road bike so not too much trail
>> dust. Eventually I'll put MTB seals on there. So far I fashioned my
>> own for the drive side, using a greased-up leather plumbing seal.
>> That sits under the cassette lock nut and looks like nothing could
>> get in there. On the left side there's still the original seal.
>> That's worn so I'll do something there as well. But at least now I
>> can ride the bike again.
>
> I wasn't suggesting to replace the hub with a new one, only that the
> new hub can be a source for a freehub body and other parts along with
> it. Put the new hub in a vise, and you can remove the freehub body
> from it to put on your wheel.
>

That's what I did. Left the hub in the wheel and changed only the
freehub body. Plus some axle stuff because the M290 is longer than the
old 600EX body. Had to take it all apart again because the chain was
binding on a luggage rack bolt when on the smallest sprocket.

>> Next ride I'll try that same hill to see that this new hub doesn't
>> go ka-crunch on it like the previous one did :-)
>
> Here's hoping it doesn't. :)
>