Get a drill bit out of seatpost tube.

[Mark Cleary]

Ok, I got my seatpost suck in the frame I explained this about 8 weeks ago. I cut off the FC seatpost and tried to break it out of frame. Now it is way down in the seattube about 8 inches. I have take a keyhole saw and tried to drill out around the inside but did not work. Now the keyhole sawbit is stuck in the tube. I cannot get it to drop out although I don't think it is actually stuck like the seatpost. It simply is wedged in and if I could get a good grip on it I could pull it out. Then I actually think I have enough seat tube clearance that another seat post could be put in on top of the broken one.

My question is some tool to pull this 1 inch keyhole saw out of the tube. It was a hole in the top where the bit attaches but I took that out. If I have some tool or way to get a long piece of rod with a 90 degree been inside the seat tube. Then I could work it into the keyhole sawy and pull it up. It was to be pretty strong piece of steel or similar. Then I can work the keyhole bit out by possible even light tapping till it breaks free.

Ok group this sounds confusing hope it is not but I need help?
Deacon Mark

[Tom Kunich]

Rather than inventing ways that don't work, you should have taken the bike into a good shop who would have had a puller that could have hammered the original seatpost out. This is STILL the way to go Mark. As you can see now, cutting the seat post off was a bad idea. You compounded that by somehow knocked the seatpost deeper into the seat tube. That shows that the seat post wasn't stuck. I don't think that you can get a hole saw long and rigid enough to cut through the carbon fiber post remains and there is a question of whether a puller has enough bite to extract the bits of post. I'm not saying that the frame isn't salvable but it could turn out to be more expensive than simply writing it off.

[AMuzi]

I was confused at first but this is a keyhole saw:
https://assets.unilogcorp.com/187/ITEM/IMG/2368660.jpg

You probably meant a hole saw:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2219/7563/products/MHS_-_New_Hole_Saw_picture.jpg?v=1518515996

Hole saws have a threaded base for the arbor/drill bit
holder right? Can you screw a bolt into it?

We have a tool I made from a piece of 9/16" rebar. A hole
near the business end takes a piece of 5mm allen key
(replaceable - they break off) pressed in. The other end
has a big nut and washer brazed on. I use it as a slide
hammer. Stick the allen stump through the post from the top.
Catch the allen stub on the post edge and pull up then smack
the top nut smartly. Not ideal but easy to fabricate.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Tom Kunich]

A hole saw wouldn't work. I think he really meant a keyhole saw trying to cut a slot in the seat post so that he could collapse the tube enough to get it out. It was probably working as well since the tube fell down into the seat post enough to jam the saw blade. Mark is clever enough with his fix attempts, but the only way I can see of the seat post getting stuck that tightly is because it was the incorrect size. I saw a pro mechanic one time measuring the the ID of the Seat Tube. I was wondering why he was doing that and he pulled out what looked like a boring bar, inserted it in the seat tube and used a wrench on it. Apparently it was a couple of thousandths off. When he was done the seat post slipped in and out easily.

I'm still trying to find my dial gauge bracket to mount on my truing stand. This is the wheel I came down into Montclair on and hit that pothole and Frank and Flunky said that it couldn't cause any rim damage if I had my tires inflated correctly. What fools believe.

[Andre Jute]

If there's a hole in the centre of the tool you got stuck in there, you can pass through a piece of sturdy metal as long as the seat tube is wide. The metal should have a hole in the middle through which you pass baling wire or whatever you have that is strong and thin. Pour in some oil, feed in the piece of metal, keeping the ends of the baling wire outside the tube, tie the outside end of the wire to a long enough bar or the centre of the mother of all wrenches, and start twisting the crossbar to wind up the wire and -- if there is enough purchase as Mr Muzi has pointed out -- the seat post and broken tool will be pulled up. Keep your hands clear and don't be tempted to look into the hole while the wire is under tension because you could need stitches or lose an eye if the wire breaks. If it breaks, take out out the short piece through the bottom bracket shell, fit up new wire or strong string, pour more oil or heat the outside tube gently, and start twisting again. Like Tom says, you shoulda taken it to a competent shop in the first instance, because these are desperate measures, dangerous to both you and the frame.
>
Doing something similar on a car rather than a bike, I found that two penny washers Gorilla-glued together, with two parallel sides ground off to help passing it through the holes, made a strong enough tool.
>
Andre Jute
Bodger -- a WW1 pocket knife with bayonet that a welder at Jeff Jago's hot rod shop gave me to align holes in suspension subframes with those on the chassis. Most versatile tool I own.
>

[Frank Krygowski]

On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 12:44:25 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
>
> I was confused at first but this is a keyhole saw:
> https://assets.unilogcorp.com/187/ITEM/IMG/2368660.jpg
>
> You probably meant a hole saw:
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2219/7563/products/MHS_-_New_Hole_Saw_picture.jpg?v=1518515996
>
> Hole saws have a threaded base for the arbor/drill bit
> holder right? Can you screw a bolt into it?
>
> We have a tool I made from a piece of 9/16" rebar. A hole
> near the business end takes a piece of 5mm allen key
> (replaceable - they break off) pressed in. The other end
> has a big nut and washer brazed on. I use it as a slide
> hammer. Stick the allen stump through the post from the top.
> Catch the allen stub on the post edge and pull up then smack
> the top nut smartly. Not ideal but easy to fabricate.

I was confused too. Like Andrew, I'm assuming you meant a hole saw:

https://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/9fc4a8332f9638515cd199dd0f9238da/5/7/57523_W3.jpg

But I'm still uncertain about exactly what portion is stuck in the frame. My hole saws have an arbor with
a shoulder. That arbor inserts into the cup-shaped cutter from the toothed end. The cutter is clamped
in place between the shoulder and a nut. If mine had gotten stuck in a seat tube, the arbor (maybe
3/8" diameter and 1" long) would be pointing up toward the top of the frame. If I somehow unscrewed
that clamping nut, the arbor would drop to the bottom of the seat tube. If it was open to the bottom
bracket, it would fall out. Is that what happened?

Anyway, assuming it's just the toothed cup that's jammed in there, it may be because it's cocked or
tilted. Maybe that's key to getting it out. Use something like Andrew described, but make sure that
it's hitting or pulling upward on the side of the cup that's lowest. Instead of whacking hard, I think
I'd try working it upward slowly, a bit at a time, always trying to lift the side that's lowest.

Please let us know if we are understanding the situation correctly.

- Frank Krygowski

[Mark Cleary]

Andrew hit it on the head with the hole saw! Exactly my situation. The bit in the middle that holds it came off so that just the hole saw attachment sits in the tube. But now I think I have a way to get it up. I will a long piece of straight wood like dowl. Then I can get a small metal bracket snad attach it with screws. The I might be able to get the bracket down in the top of the hole saw. Pull down with bike hanging it might come out. The hole saw clearly is smaller in diameter than the seat tube but of course I have a bit out of wack when I was turning it to cut the seat post.
Deacon Mark

[Frank Krygowski]

OK. Maybe consider shooting some lubricant in there? Good luck!

--
- Frank Krygowski

[Tom Kunich]

I can't see how you could have hoped to get a seat post out that way. Just the normal minimum depth of a seat post is much deeper than the length of a hole saw. And that would also no doubt damage the seat tube. Wouldn't it have been easier to get a hack saw blade and cover the holding end with wrapping tape? Cutting a slot in the seat post residue would allow you to fairly easily work it out.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 6 May 2023 08:24:27 -0700 (PDT), Mark Cleary
<deaco...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Andrew hit it on the head with the hole saw! Exactly my situation. The bit in the middle that holds it came off so that just the hole saw attachment sits in the tube. But now I think I have a way to get it up. I will a long piece of straight wood like dowl. Then I can get a small metal bracket snad attach it with screws. The I might be able to get the bracket down in the top of the hole saw. Pull down with bike hanging it might come out. The hole saw clearly is smaller in diameter than the seat tube but of course I have a bit out of wack when I was turning it to cut the seat post.
>Deacon Mark

Do you have room for a slide hammer? Something like one of these:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=slide+hammer&tbm=isch>
However, there's a problem. Most slide hammers don't have jaws that
are long enough to fit the length of your seat post. My guess is you
need about 12 inch long jaws. I made my own jaws for a homemade slide
hammer, but I think you can do was well with a "long jaw bearing
puller"
<https://www.google.com/search?q=long+jaw+bearing+puller&tbm=isch>
The trick will be to find something where 3 jaws will it into the hole
down the center of the seat post.

If you want to make your own, I suggest 3 rods that will
simultaneously fit down the center hole in the seat post. One the
side of each rod, near one end, weld a shallow "hook" using a MIG
welder. File a sharp edge on each hook to catch the seat post. Bundle
the 3 rods together and point the hooks towards the center line so
everything will fit down the seat tube. Rotate each rod so that the
"hook" is now facing outward. I have no idea how you are going to
pull on the 3 rods simultaneously because I don't have a picture of
what you have to work with. Don't weld the 3 rods together or you
will have difficulty removing the rods should the extraction fail.
Maybe threading the ends of the rods and threading them into a thick
steel plate. Then, pull on the plate.

Good luck.


--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 06 May 2023 14:44:58 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>On Sat, 6 May 2023 08:24:27 -0700 (PDT), Mark Cleary
><deaco...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Andrew hit it on the head with the hole saw! Exactly my situation. The bit in the middle that holds it came off so that just the hole saw attachment sits in the tube. But now I think I have a way to get it up. I will a long piece of straight wood like dowl. Then I can get a small metal bracket snad attach it with screws. The I might be able to get the bracket down in the top of the hole saw. Pull down with bike hanging it might come out. The hole saw clearly is smaller in diameter than the seat tube but of course I have a bit out of wack when I was turning it to cut the seat post.

Yet another idea, but this time for pulling on the seat post:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=locking+plier+slide+hammer&tbm=isch>

<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voX52pOKaH4>
Notice the backwards facing teeth on the jaws at:
<https://youtu.be/voX52pOKaH4?t=57>

I don't know if a 2 lb weight is big enough to extract your seat post.
If it's doesn't move, add more mass.

As Frank suggested, use lubricant or penetrating oil.
<https://www.kroil.com>
In the People's Republic of California, Kroil was reformulated to
reduce VOC (volatile organic solvents):
<https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-penetrant-with-silicone-best-penetrating-oil/>
I've tried both and believe the original formulation to be slightly
better.

I couldn't determine the seat post and seat tube materials from what I
think was your original thread at:
<https://groups.google.com/g/rec.bicycles.tech/c/uSYvNBQqJRE/m/0hSN7Mg9AgAJ>
Please remind me what you are working with.

[Tom Kunich]

Mark, this tool is almost useless to buy to use once every decade or so or even less than that. But good bike shops have similar tools which could be used to get that seat post out of the seat tube, then measure the diameter and concentricity of the seat post and recommend or even supply a proper seat post:

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-way-5-lb-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-56505.html