How to achieve 127mm OLD with a Nexus 8 IGH?

Hugh Kelley

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Oct 12, 2012, 4:19:58 PM10/12/12

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Before I resort to cold-setting my 126mm frame, does anybody know how to achieve the 127mm OLD that I've read is possible with the Nexus 8-speed?

The hub came spaced for 132mm and the only place I see to reduce width is the 5mm wide nut on the left/non-drive side. I assume I need something in its place to provide a bearing surface for the hub against the left dropout, but the coincidence (132 - 5 = 127) makes me wonder if this is the mod other people have made.

Any experiences to share?

Hugh

AMuzi

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:09:38 PM10/12/12

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They are 135mm out of the box.

You may be able to get to 127mm by substituting thinner
locknuts. If you are dropping the frame on an alignment
table anyway, decide on the hub spacing then make frame
match it; 127, 130, 135, whatever.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

datakoll

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:19:33 PM10/12/12

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http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html
sez its onlya 3.8th's nut.,,,see 3/8ths JAM NUTS

borrow a grinder...get a pad for your drill, set up a holding surface keeping nut attached to vise grips or bolt flat to grinding surface..

you get 3 chances at correct dimensions.

lookslike yawl get -4/5mm ?

get a deep reach clamp holding front side chainstays, a 1/2" threaded rod with nuts and fender washers (?) then screw thoise stays out.

or do it 2 washers at a time with your before axle.

then there's the machine $hop

Tom Ace

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:47:31 PM10/12/12

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On Friday, October 12, 2012 1:19:58 PM UTC-7, Hugh Kelley wrote:

> Any experiences to share?

This is peripheral to the question you asked--
but whatever you do, consider chainline as well.
Fixed-gear and internal-gear drivetrains should
have the chainwheel and sprocket lined up as
close to dead-on as you can get it.

Tom Ace

John B.

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:53:03 PM10/12/12

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Just a comment. If you reduce the hub width by removing a spacer from
one side only it may change the centering of the hub in the wheel.
You might need to re-align the wheel.

Another comment. There seems to be a horror of cold setting a frame.
But if it is a steel frame with the usual curved forks remember that
the fork blades were received by the builder as straight, tapered
tubes and he bent them to shape before brazing together. So bending
the tubes is not a mortal sin.

On the other hand, bending can result in some stress hardening so it
probably shouldn't become a daily exercise.
--
Cheers,
John B.

Hugh Kelley

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Oct 13, 2012, 7:55:05 AM10/13/12

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Thanks for that. I haven't built the wheel so dish can be dealt with then. Since I cannot find any sources for thin (2mm?) locknuts in 3/8-26 (and even if I did, I'd be +3mm) I am leaning toward spreading the frame and sparing the IGH a life of confinement.

Going all the way out to a now-normal 135 seems like a lot of movement but it does also give me a few extra mm to tune the chain line.

Hugh

datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 8:39:58 AM10/13/12

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the Raleigh I ride began as a 5 speed now a Deore 8 speed. The frame is 'carbon steel'. I didn't know either only from text so used the 2 washers on the axle spread at a time method. the spacing accelerates as spead continues finally bringing you to shove the wider hub in there.

like all bending with joints, fixing the piece before the joint...eg eyeglass frames...with a clamp...is necessary necessaery.

I hear there's starting and standing problems with these hubs...people write in

'then I fell over u nder the bbbbus and.."

AMuzi

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Oct 13, 2012, 10:39:51 AM10/13/12

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Shimano hub axles, as nearly all bicycle parts, are metric.

thirty-six

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Oct 13, 2012, 11:00:58 AM10/13/12

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As i recall the SA AW-3 used to do that in normal if the control wire
was not adjusted correctly and/or the oil was getting thick. Rubber
pedals though meant it fairly safe

Hugh Kelley

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Oct 13, 2012, 11:25:10 AM10/13/12

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Andrew, perhaps we are talking about different hubs.

Mine is a SG-8R36-VS. Its solid axle is almost definitely 3/8". I base this on two data points:
- the Shimano spec sheet, http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SG/EV-SG-8R36-2784B_v1_m56577569830714873.pdf
- the fact that no other lock nut I have, even from another Shimano rear hub, will fit it.

As for the spacing, it is 132mm out of the box. I assume this is a hedge on Shimano's part so that 130mm and 135mm frames can be spread or squeezed, respectively - though that's just a guess.

datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 7:35:52 PM10/13/12

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http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-jam-nuts/=jpihwf

local nboise objects as the EOM nut sides are well propproetery EOM.
BUT BUT BUT fit aN undersize USS or metric,,,,search M=C , drill out to a slip fit then clean surfaces, sand a bit and red loctite the nut/fitted washer together when FINAL install goes on

datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 7:45:39 PM10/13/12

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datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 7:48:48 PM10/13/12

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datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 7:53:08 PM10/13/12

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datakoll

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Oct 13, 2012, 8:11:54 PM10/13/12

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maybe Rolly could use a wide flange in grade 8 ?

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=3%2F8ths-24+Extra-Wide+Thin+Hex+Nuts&oq=3%2F8ths-24+Extra-Wide+Thin+Hex+Nuts&gs_l=hp.12...3404.21970.1.27029.11.11.0.0.0.1.289.2246.0j5j6.11.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.OXJtRT67XQY&psj=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=4b0300710f71e67&bpcl=35277026&biw=1152&bih=614