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Tightening wheels on carbon forks and frames

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zaf

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Apr 11, 2011, 1:04:43 PM4/11/11
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After umpteen year riding steel, I finally went to an full carbon bike
(frame & fork). On the steel bike, the only limiting factor on the
tightness I recognized was to not snap the quick release. I am a
little paranoid now with the carbon dropouts, it would seem like there
would be some guidelines on how tight these should made.

Also the bike is a Giant Defy Advanced and came with these crazy DT
swiss wheels that do not even have a quick release, more like a modern
wingnut. Is it even possible for a human of normal means to get
these tight enough with his hands to be of concern to the dropouts?

landotter

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Apr 11, 2011, 3:24:39 PM4/11/11
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Dropouts should be aluminum, but perhaps painted.

Lou Holtman

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Apr 11, 2011, 5:12:33 PM4/11/11
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Op 11-4-2011 21:24, landotter schreef:

> On Apr 11, 12:04 pm, zaf<zaf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> After umpteen year riding steel, I finally went to an full carbon bike
>> (frame& fork). On the steel bike, the only limiting factor on the

>> tightness I recognized was to not snap the quick release. I am a
>> little paranoid now with the carbon dropouts, it would seem like there
>> would be some guidelines on how tight these should made.
>>
>> Also the bike is a Giant Defy Advanced and came with these crazy DT
>> swiss wheels that do not even have a quick release, more like a modern
>> wingnut. Is it even possible for a human of normal means to get
>> these tight enough with his hands to be of concern to the dropouts?
>
> Dropouts should be aluminum, but perhaps painted.


Why? I have two forks with CF dropouts.

Lou

thirty-six

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Apr 11, 2011, 7:04:07 PM4/11/11
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Dunno, I would expect metal (prob a stainless type steel) facings.

Lou Holtman

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Apr 12, 2011, 3:59:16 AM4/12/11
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On 11 apr, 19:04, zaf <zaf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> After umpteen year riding steel, I finally went to an full carbon bike
> (frame & fork).   On the steel bike, the only limiting factor on the
> tightness I recognized was to not snap the quick release.  I am a
> little paranoid now with the carbon dropouts, it would seem like there
> would be some guidelines on how tight these should made.
>

Use common sense. When your palm of your hand start to hurt, it is too
tight. Use close cam quick releases. These give you better feed back
how tight you closed your QR. Throw away open cam QR.


> Also the bike is a Giant Defy Advanced and came with these crazy DT
> swiss wheels that do not even have a quick release, more like a modern
> wingnut.   Is it even possible for a human of normal means to get
> these tight enough with his hands to be of concern to the dropouts?


Once again use common sense. I would replace those.

Lou

Steve Freides

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Apr 12, 2011, 8:16:14 AM4/12/11
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Lou Holtman wrote:

> Use close cam quick releases. These give you better feed back
> how tight you closed your QR. Throw away open cam QR.

Please 'splain the difference between the two. Pictures would be great.

Thanks.

-S-


thirty-six

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Apr 12, 2011, 8:29:49 AM4/12/11
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Helmut Springer

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Apr 12, 2011, 8:33:56 AM4/12/11
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Steve Freides <st...@kbnj.com> wrote:
>> Use close cam quick releases. These give you better feed back how
>> tight you closed your QR. Throw away open cam QR.
>
> Please 'splain the difference between the two. Pictures would be
> great.

http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

--
MfG/Best regards
helmut springer panta rhei

Duane Hebert

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Apr 12, 2011, 8:54:15 AM4/12/11
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On 4/11/2011 7:04 PM, thirty-six wrote:
> On Apr 11, 6:04 pm, zaf<zaf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> After umpteen year riding steel, I finally went to an full carbon bike
>> (frame& fork). On the steel bike, the only limiting factor on the

>> tightness I recognized was to not snap the quick release. I am a
>> little paranoid now with the carbon dropouts, it would seem like there
>> would be some guidelines on how tight these should made.
>>
>> Also the bike is a Giant Defy Advanced and came with these crazy DT
>> swiss wheels that do not even have a quick release, more like a modern
>> wingnut. Is it even possible for a human of normal means to get
>> these tight enough with his hands to be of concern to the dropouts?
>
> Dunno, I would expect metal (prob a stainless type steel) facings.

Specialized uses aluminum dropouts on my Tarmac. But I was looking at a
2011 Giant TCR Comp 2 a couple of weeks ago and it looked like the
dropouts were carbon. They may have been metal in disguise but flicking
with the fingernails sounded like carbon.

James

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Apr 12, 2011, 5:50:53 PM4/12/11
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On 12/04/2011 10:33 PM, Helmut Springer wrote:
> Steve Freides<st...@kbnj.com> wrote:
>>> Use close cam quick releases. These give you better feed back how
>>> tight you closed your QR. Throw away open cam QR.
>>
>> Please 'splain the difference between the two. Pictures would be
>> great.
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
>

Dunno what you'd call the Mavic QR skewers on my wheels:

http://www.glorycycles.com/mavicskewers.html

but they've worked fine for me. The only drawback is that they will not
work well with an indoor trainer that clamps on to the rear wheel
skewer. Thankfully this is not a concern of mine.

JS.

Michael Press

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Apr 13, 2011, 4:35:34 AM4/13/11
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In article <io2hfv$sbb$1...@dont-email.me>,
James <james.e...@gmail.com> wrote:

External cam. I would never have them.
I use internal cam quick-release skewers
and keep the cams greased.

When they skimp on the cam,
they are skimping elsewhere.
Pitch them and get real QRs;
or use nuts.

--
Michael Press

Steve Freides

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Apr 13, 2011, 8:15:43 AM4/13/11
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Thank you both for your replies - I get it now.

-S-

Duane Hebert

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Apr 13, 2011, 9:08:02 AM4/13/11
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They work ok for me as long as I put them super tight. Otherwise they
creak.

kolldata

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Apr 13, 2011, 9:10:05 AM4/13/11
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aha sounds like a winner so...

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1436&bih=789&q=Bicycle+frame%3A+using+carbon+dropouts&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

search !

I'm steel only, swedish if possible.

lesson: bought a wenonah rendezvous white water touring canoe. has air
bags front and rear held down with a net suspended from small 1" d-
rings attached to gunwales underside. gunwales aluminum.
attached with DIY drill holes at 5/64's for a sheet metal typed screw.

verrrrrrrrrrryy sensisitve-no directions for it. there's the nylon d-
rinb tab slightly compressible, the Al anodized surface and the
gunwale and the SAFETY net off course.

BIG DEAL is there's room for new holes.

diff tween puckering out the Al with screw pressure in to snug the d-
ring is only learnable by uh uh puckering the Al off course.

the carbon owner having chosen his brand wisely would have assurance
given the rep that the dropout composite was extensively tested by
babboons like yourself for ignorant clumsy and downright stupid axle/
wheel work in 100 degree 100 percent humidity over in the swamp at
twilight during a mosquito swarm.

buy a nutted axle from Wheels Mfg.

andre...@aol.com

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Apr 13, 2011, 9:21:09 AM4/13/11
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I had a bike with a carbon dropout fork.

I had no problems tightening quick release w/o concern. No problem.

Rule of thumb with quick release is that all you need is enough
pressure to feel a light indentation of the quick release on palm. You
should lock so that it releases with reasonable pressure and you don't
need ultra strength to unlock.

kolldata

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Apr 13, 2011, 9:32:16 PM4/13/11
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http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1415&bih=789&q=ADJUSTING++QUICK+RELEASE+AXLE&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

ANDRES' METHOD produces paranoia here on a fast downhill.

local noise sez carbon dropouts failure is "impossible"

imagine this depends on where made by whom and why...

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