"You asked how this could have happened. I would have
never thought a chain could snap, but I guess they
can. No, his chain did not get caught in the wheel.
What happened was, we came to small hill and he stood
up on the pedals to speed up the hill. As he applied
force and all of his weight to the pedal, the chain
broke. The chain whipped up in the air and wrapped
itself around his rear light near the seat. Gail, Liz
and I think Sally, were with Steve, saw the chain whip
up in the air. I was a few bike lengths behind him and
saw his front wheel suddenly turn 180 degrees. His
body flipped up in the air. I think that as he was
applying force to the pedal and had most of his weight
on one pedal, the chain broke, the pedal dropped
forward and his body went forward. His hands must have
slipped off the handlebars and he flipped, like doing
a handstand in the air. When he flipped his head was a
few feet from the pavement and he came down hard on
his right shoulder and left hand. The bike also
flipped and at some point the chain ring came into
contact with his left ankle and sliced into it. He
hit on the pavement but somehow ended up in the grass
on the side of the road, where he waited calmly and
patiently for the car to take him to the hospital.
I have really thought all about how a chain can break
suddenly. Having a chain break was strange to me,
until a couple of people have mentioned that they know
people who have had chains break. Steve's chain is not
old or worn. It looks as if one plate came off the pin
and the chain pulled apart. No metal actually snapped.
His chain is not one of the newer lightweight chains
that are marketed these days, those with drilled or
thinner plates and/or hollow pins that reduce weight.
Also, a lot of the chains these days have one link
that can be moved or taken apart along side the road.
I would think these chains are weaker then the old
conventional chains where the pin is forced into place
with a tool. I looked up the technical information on
Steve's particular chain. It is one of their strongest
chains. They make his chain with and without a "quick
link" that can be adjusted by hand without a tool. I
do not know if he had a "quick link". If he did, it is
along side the road in Six Mile. I suspect his chain
had all pins that are forced into place with pressure.
You have to have two pins break in order to lose a
link of chain. It appears the chain only came apart in
one place and no links are missing. It is just one of
those things that happens, I suppose.
So, that is what happened."
This poor guy had his shoulder and collar bone shattered. Ugh.
Bob C.
A worn chain tool will also do this as the drive pin becomes slightly
"mushroomed" with use.
Still one more problem is incorrect setting. In old days, one jsut
needed to work the stiff link out with lateral pressure and flexing.
Not so today as the stiffness may result in the pin pulling out the
wrong way. Most modern chain tools have an additional "fence" to set
the chain clearance. See the complete instructions.
If you use one of the quick links, the chain tool use becomes less
critical. Most quick links are adequately strong but I have had one
come apart in use. I found the parts and was able to reassemble.
--
Weisse Luft
"psycholist" <tech...@wctel.net> wrote in message
news:cia4mp$eq8k$1...@news3.infoave.net...
"Weisse Luft" <Weisse.Lu...@no-mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote in
message news:Weisse.Lu...@no-mx.forums.cyclingforums.com...
In a decade of serious cycling I've had:
A shattered kneecap
broken pelvis
broken hip (now has 3 titanium screws holding it together)
broken ankle (now has 2 titanium screws)
fractured spine
accompanying road rash
two bikes totalled
That's from two encounters with cars and one paceline mishap. I had a car
pass me, then make a right turn into a driveway directly in front of me. I
had a teenager on a cell phone make a left in an oncoming car and hit me
head-on. And, I was in a pileup on some wet RR tracks while riding in a
fast paceline. Of course, I was the only one who didn't ride away.
I've survived all of it and love cycling just as much today as I ever did!
Bob C.
I've been abusing them for years on my downhill and crosscountry bikes. No
problems. I did break one SACHs chain due to rejoining a section after I
cut it too short. You HAVE to use the powerlink. Once the peen is broken
they aren't as strong.
Mike
--
Weisse Luft
> I've got a SRAM chain that has a removable link, but I haven't put it on
> yet. I bought it for when my cassette wears out. Are the removable links
> pretty reliable?
Yes.
Succinctly,
--
Benjamin Lewis
I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in cases of
oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way obstructed interstate
commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************
I've had a side plate disengage from the pin. Presumably it was where I
broke the chain and had some sort of reinstallation problem, and switching
to a separate master link might avoid such trauma in the future.
--
<a href="http://www.poohsticks.org/drew/">Home Page</a>
Life is a terminal sexually transmitted disease.
> I'll be interested in your comments on this story about an incident
> that befell a member of our local club -- a very dedicated rider
> maintains his equipment.
> I have really thought all about how a chain can break suddenly.
> Having a chain break was strange to me, until a couple of people
> have mentioned that they know people who have had chains break.
> Steve's chain is not old or worn. It looks as if one plate came off
> the pin and the chain pulled apart. No metal actually snapped.
Describing the fall only suggests sympathy for the rider but the
essence of the event is that the chain separated with no material
failure, something the title implies. The chain came apart and
judging from the millions of chains in use that do not separate even
with many times the load in this event, I am sure that this was a
mechanical error. A crudely pushed in link pin can be inserted too
far or not far enough, or by initially missing a side-plate hole,
broach out the bore to make a loose fit.
> You have to have two pins break in order to lose a link of chain.
> It appears the chain only came apart in one place and no links are
> missing. It is just one of those things that happens, I suppose.
Nothing needs to break to have a chain separate. All it takes is a
link pin improperly pressed into place... or not in place correctly.
> So, that is what happened."
> This poor guy had his shoulder and collar bone shattered. Ugh.
This is a hard way to learn that joining a chain must be done with
understanding of the operation and by using the proper tools. I
didn't see any reference to who installed the chain and when. This is
conspicuous in this lengthy recount of which I included only pertinent
parts.
Fill in the blanks please. If you could include a photo of the end of
the chain having the dislodged pin and outer side plates, more could
be determined.
Jobst Brandt
jobst....@stanfordalumni.org
> I had a chain with only a few hundred miles on it snap at both INNER
> plates. I have yet to hear anybody else having seen such a chain break.
I still have some old Regina chains that were improperly hardened so
that their side plates cracked across the link-pin hole. In my case,
the one that broke did so without separating. It jammed in the
derailleur. On inspection, I found many cracked plates. This were
the only chains I saw with such a defect. I saved them because they
were such a rarity.
Jobst Brandt
jobst....@stanfordalumni.org
> I'll be interested in your comments on this story about an incident that
> befell a member of our local club -- a very dedicated rider maintains his
> equipment.
>
> "You asked how this could have happened. I would have
> never thought a chain could snap, but I guess they
> can. No, his chain did not get caught in the wheel.
> What happened was, we came to small hill and he stood
> up on the pedals to speed up the hill. As he applied
> force and all of his weight to the pedal, the chain
> broke.
-snip-
It appears the chain only came apart in
> one place and no links are missing. It is just one of
> those things that happens, I suppose.
> So, that is what happened."
> This poor guy had his shoulder and collar bone shattered. Ugh.
That didn't 'just happen'. A link was not joined properly.
We strongly advise use of snaplinks and attempt to dissuade
customers from setting rivets in modern chain exactly
because of your and similar incidents.
There are still a lot of riders who insist they don't need
some sissy snaplink. They're perfectly capable of setting a
measly chain rivet with the same tool they've used for 25
years thank you.
Problem is, chain is different and setting a rivet now is
just not safe.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
> ...
> This is a hard way to learn that joining a chain must be done with
> understanding of the operation and by using the proper tools....
Is the Rohloff Revolver a "proper tool" that allows reusing pins or just
really expensive?
<http://www.rohloffusa.com/pdf/revolver.pdf>
--
Tom Sherman
>
> We strongly advise use of snaplinks and attempt to dissuade customers
> from setting rivets in modern chain exactly because of your and similar
> incidents.
>
> There are still a lot of riders who insist they don't need some sissy
> snaplink. They're perfectly capable of setting a measly chain rivet with
> the same tool they've used for 25 years thank you.
>
> Problem is, chain is different and setting a rivet now is just not safe.
>
>
So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by
stomping the pin back in with my foot?
who needs sissy snaplinks or chaintools ;)
>I'll be interested in your comments on this story about an incident that
>befell a member of our local club -- a very dedicated rider maintains his
>equipment.
>
>...
>
>I have really thought all about how a chain can break
>suddenly. Having a chain break was strange to me,
>until a couple of people have mentioned that they know
>people who have had chains break. Steve's chain is not
>old or worn. It looks as if one plate came off the pin
>and the chain pulled apart.
IMO, it's very likely that this was also the place where the chain was
spliced together with a chain tool on installation, but an examination
of the chain to see if a quick link is present should help in
determining whether that could be the case.
>No metal actually snapped.
Breakage is far less common in my experience than a pin slip failure.
>His chain is not one of the newer lightweight chains
>that are marketed these days, those with drilled or
>thinner plates and/or hollow pins that reduce weight.
>Also, a lot of the chains these days have one link
>that can be moved or taken apart along side the road.
One often overlooked possible advantage of quick links is that they
preclude the necessity of pressing a link back together with a
tool...and thereby also reduce the likelihood that one link of the
chain will be less securely assembled than the rest.
>I would think these chains are weaker then the old
>conventional chains where the pin is forced into place
>with a tool.
I personally do not believe this to be the case; in fact, I feel that
the reverse is more likely. OTOH, I have seen reports of quick-link
failures, though I can't vouch for their accuracy. I have only an
opinion based on experience, not hard test data.
>I looked up the technical information on
>Steve's particular chain. It is one of their strongest
>chains. They make his chain with and without a "quick
>link" that can be adjusted by hand without a tool. I
>do not know if he had a "quick link". If he did, it is
>along side the road in Six Mile.
Your comments below make this seem unlikely.
> I suspect his chain
>had all pins that are forced into place with pressure.
>You have to have two pins break in order to lose a
>link of chain. It appears the chain only came apart in
>one place and no links are missing.
Then a quick-link would still be present if one was employed. If it's
not present, it wasn't used...and can't be blamed for the failure.
> It is just one of
>those things that happens, I suppose.
Yeah, that's pretty much how I'd look at it, too. Damn shame, though.
>This poor guy had his shoulder and collar bone shattered. Ugh.
Yeesh. Nasty. He'll likely be a while getting back to full
functionality on wheels.
I've seen some comments over the years about the hazards of standing
to pedal, and have always regarded these as being in the same category
as warnings against other activities that are hard (or at least bloody
inconvenient) to avoid. Yes, there's a risk, and if things go wrong,
they can go *really* wrong, but most people (including me) aren't
going to stop doing them just because there's a small risk of a big
problem. On the other hand, having heard the tale of woe in this
case, I'll be giving my chains a more thorough inspection for pin
slippage in the future. I'd really rather catch it before it goes all
the way to the "Oh sh**" stage, if possible. Not knowing how long it
takes for the process of pin slippage to complete, I don't know if
close inspection really will be of any value, but I'll do it anyway.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
kantspel wrote:
> So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by
> stomping the pin back in with my foot?
> who needs sissy snaplinks or chaintools ;)
You should use a snaplink.
Modern chain is harder.
The pin/plate interface is tighter.
The plates are thinner.
Rivets can't be set poorly or unevenly without risk of
separation.
We see way too any rider injuries from poorly set rivets.
Use a snaplink.
I keep a few pins along with a tool in my bag. It is cheap insurance.
--
Weisse Luft
One difference though, I went down due to Chain Skip, and not the
Chain Breaking. Due to the Rear Derailleur Shifter Not being firmly
adjusted/clamped (Friction Downtube Shifters), was barreling full tilt
out of the saddle when the bike slipped out of a gear. Yup, went
right over/through the bars just like your friend, but luckily, I did
not break any bones, just numerous nasty deep scrapes all over my
arms, hands, and legs when I hit the Ashphalt at about 30mph. I was
bleeding like a pig, but was more worried about the bike! lol Luckily,
only just very minor damage to my bike's front Brake Caliper.
Your post is a very good reminder to us all, to carefully
inspect/check chains, (And Shifting Systems/Cables/Brakes) frequently,
as a snapped cable, or a Shifting system that cannot maintain proper
gear selection will cause the very same disastrous results when really
pedaling hard out of the saddle. Mark D.
>> ... This is a hard way to learn that joining a chain must be done
>> with understanding of the operation and by using the proper
>> tools...
> Is the Rohloff Revolver a "proper tool" that allows reusing pins or
> just really expensive?
http://www.rohloffusa.com/pdf/revolver.pdf
I haven't used one but had one in hand at the InterBike show. To me
it seemed to be an expensive chain tool with no special advantages. I
dodge that issue by not using extra narrow chains for cassette
clusters that require such chains with pins that have practically no
radius to assist re-insertion. I have the old chain pliers that have
a push-out pin and a press-in pocket, side-by-side. Just squeeze the
pliers and it's out and again an it's in.
Jobst Brandt
jobst....@stanfordalumni.org
I've been using these links for over 5k miles with no problems.
---------------
Alex
<< Describing the fall only suggests sympathy for the rider but the
essence of the event is that the chain separated with no material
failure, something the title implies. The chain came apart and
judging from the millions of chains in use that do not separate even
with many times the load in this event, I am sure that this was a
mechanical error. A crudely pushed in link pin can be inserted too
far or not far enough, or by initially missing a side-plate hole,
broach out the bore to make a loose fit. >>
Another way to break a chain is to
smack it hard on a rock while trail
riding in the big ring. The impact
spreads the plates then later on
the chain comes apart.
Robert
>So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by
>stomping the pin back in with my foot?
Unless you use precision tools like a rock and a rusty nail, be
careful.
No chain made today that uses a quick link can be reassembled w/o one, that is
by pushing the pin back in with a tool. If you do that, you risk breaking it,
just like he did, if he reinstalled it improperly.
Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
> That didn't 'just happen'. A link was not joined properly.
>
> We strongly advise use of snaplinks and attempt to dissuade
> customers from setting rivets in modern chain exactly
> because of your and similar incidents.
>
> There are still a lot of riders who insist they don't need
> some sissy snaplink. They're perfectly capable of setting a
> measly chain rivet with the same tool they've used for 25
> years thank you.
>
> Problem is, chain is different and setting a rivet now is
> just not safe.
I've never used a snap link so maybe I'm missing something. But
doesn't the snap link have to be connected to the rest of the chain
initially by using a chain tool? If so, an improperly installed pin
could still cause a failure.
I admit I like the Shimano "special pin" method.
Art Harris
That's all fine and well in a shop, but when your stranded without tools
you have to make due.
i think it just comes down to how well the chain was manufactured. some
chains are built poor and will break.
--
velomanct
>Another way to break a chain is to
>smack it hard on a rock while trail
>riding in the big ring. The impact
>spreads the plates then later on
>the chain comes apart.
Fortunately for most of us, we're far too slow to do any serious trail
riding in the big ring. ;-)
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame
Dear Art,
Most bicycle snaplink/quicklink/powerlink pieces assemble by
hand, unlike the special pin, which needs a chain tool.
A motorcycle-style masterlink falls in between these two
extremes in that a pair of needlenose pliers is needed to
install and remove the elongated circlip that holds the
sideplate on.
Carl Fogel
>So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by
>stomping the pin back in with my foot?
Are you serious?
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
>I've got a SRAM chain that has a removable link, but I haven't put it on
>yet. I bought it for when my cassette wears out. Are the removable links
>pretty reliable?
I've been using them for years with no trouble.
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
The only time I had a chain break was when I, frustrated with the new fangled
"Power Link" pressed a rivet part way out so I could clean the chain and then
re-assembled it. My thought is that SRAM chains are not intended to have a
rivet pressed back in. I don't do so any more. I suspect that is what
happened to your friend. It appears to me that all you have to do is loose one
end of the rivet and it's over.
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
No, that's OK. If you do anything but stomping it back in with your
foot, use a snap link.
No, and that's the beauty part.
>I admit I like the Shimano "special pin" method.
Better than trying to re-feed the old pin back in.
Ron
about fixing it or riding it? Yes, you can fix a chain that way. Get
the pin lined up just right, put something hard on top of it (a flat
rock in this case) and stomp. Worked on the first shot for me.
As for continuing to ride on it...no, i wussed out. It got me home and
I promply replaced the chain.
>> In article <ciavtq$ng7$1...@grandcanyon.binc.net>, kantspel
><pre...@nomail.com>
>> writes:
>>
>>
>>>So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by
>>>stomping the pin back in with my foot?
>>
>>
>> Are you serious?
>>
>> Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
>
>about fixing it or riding it? Yes, you can fix a chain that way. Get
>the pin lined up just right, put something hard on top of it (a flat
>rock in this case) and stomp. Worked on the first shot for me.
The rock helps. I am still impressed and I'm gonna keep that trick in mind.
>As for continuing to ride on it...no, i wussed out. It got me home and
>I promply replaced the chain.
I call that prudent, not wussy.
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
> I bet the problem was with the rejoining method. Most chains require
> careful assembly to ensure the pin is correctly reinstalled. If the
> chain tool's drive pin is just slightly larger than the chain pin,
> removal will swage the hole in the side plate a few thiousandth's
> larger, resulting in a poor fit.
>
> A worn chain tool will also do this as the drive pin becomes slightly
> "mushroomed" with use.
>
> Still one more problem is incorrect setting. In old days, one jsut
> needed to work the stiff link out with lateral pressure and flexing. Not
> so today as the stiffness may result in the pin pulling out the wrong
> way. Most modern chain tools have an additional "fence" to set the
> chain clearance. See the complete instructions.
>
> If you use one of the quick links, the chain tool use becomes less
> critical. Most quick links are adequately strong but I have had one
> come apart in use. I found the parts and was able to reassemble.
I've seen maybe 4 broken or damaged chains in 32 years of riding. I saw
two of them on the Covered Bridge Metric this Aug. 15th. And neither of
the people who had the broken chains had ever done any disassembly of
their chains. In fact, one of the two, a young woman, told me she never
actually has done any cleaning on her bike at all - what work's been done
has all been at the LBS.
>
> I've never used a snap link so maybe I'm missing something. But doesn't
> the snap link have to be connected to the rest of the chain initially by
> using a chain tool? If so, an improperly installed pin could still cause
> a failure.
>
> I admit I like the Shimano "special pin" method.
And I hate them so much I gave up on Shimano chains entirely for a while
(I've now got one with a 3rd party link, and, having been freed from the
irritation of that blankeyblank special pin, I find it's actually a quite
nice chain after all). No you do not need to use a chain tool to install
the link. If you shorten the chain, of course, you do need to push a pin
out with a chain tool. But the SRAM link just fits in by hand. And it
works great, too.
Of course - in an emergency, field expedients are called for. However, a
chain tool isn't all that heavy, although it is a fairly awkward shape.
Thing about those Shimano pins, though, is they keep falling out of the
tool bag.
>Thing about those Shimano pins, though, is they keep falling out of the
>tool bag.
You could maybe embed it under your skin, and carry a straight razor
in the bag to cut it out...
>On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 16:53:05 -0400, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com>
>wrote:
>
>
>>Thing about those Shimano pins, though, is they keep falling out of the
>>tool bag.
>
>You could maybe embed it under your skin, and carry a straight razor
>in the bag to cut it out...
Or find a clasp for it and wear it through a nasal piercing, almost as hardcore.
Ron