Pinch flats?
You need to degrease the rim (acetone, lighter fluid) before you
apply the rim tape or the adhesive draws in the trace amount of oil
(you wont even feel it) and softens. In eight or so years it hardens
and if you lift the tape the adhesive will require refreshing. Put on
a new strip. I think the tyres have generated that little bit of
extra heat which has permitted the strip to slide.
Get new strip, remove old and degrease thoroughly, apply new strip and
put on tyre and tube and inflate to maximum pressure for 48 hours.
Dont use the wheel in the meantime. Remove tube and tyre and heat the
rim so that it is too hot to touch using a hairdryer or heat gun.
This should drive off the excess solvent in the adhesive. Leave until
rim has gone cold and reheat. Leave for a day. Mount tyre and tube
and use.
I would not suggest this extended fitting technique only you have had
trouble, a simple wipe around the rim with a paper towel is usually
sufficient before putting on self adhesive tape.
You dont neccesarily need new rim tape if it is sticky, I made a
mistake. Just make sure the existing is tight and try heating that
first.
I know some people like this tire, but I have a new one I don't even
want to use, The first time I used it was a day on ragbrai, I was fully
loaded (the bike was) , I never felt like I had enough pressure and
kept topping it off, until BOOM, it blew off on a climb. I am sure it
has less than 1000 miles total and the sidewalls feel like they are
paper thin and I already had one boot in there.
If you're using tire levers to install or remove the tire, that could be
pushing the rimstrip off to the side. I've seen that happen a few times.
--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
> thanks for the advice,
> I am sure they are not pinch flats because they happen when I am not
> riding and the hole in the tube lines up with the spoke hole where the
> strip has moved.
> I bought this rim new last fall and rode all winter with studs, then
> switched to the pasalas and rode a couple of months and then it recently
> happened twice over a two week period.
>
> I know some people like this tire, but I have a new one I don't even
> want to use, The first time I used it was a day on ragbrai, I was fully
> loaded (the bike was) , I never felt like I had enough pressure and
> kept topping it off, until BOOM, it blew off on a climb. I am sure it
> has less than 1000 miles total and the sidewalls feel like they are
> paper thin and I already had one boot in there.
And, perhaps a wider strip, they come in at least three sizes. I
think the blue one is most common, although I was advised by what was
considered a reputable shop to use narrower on a lightweight racing
rim, Mavic Open 4cd. The blue one was correct on this rim as it had
been on my wider road rims. The curvature of the tyre bed I think is
ignored by those without extensive experience.
Use wider rim tape?
IMO, the Pasela is way over-rated, and at least for me, it flats far
more frequently than any of my other tires of the same general
dimension. I had an issue with an old, undersized plastic rim tape
that shifted around and cause flats. I replaced it with a new
Performance stip and problem solved. I would not bother with cotton
rim tape and would just get a good plastic tape. -- Jay Beattie.
We had the same thing with a Velocity rim on a tandem. Hard braking
heated it up enough for oily stuff to come out of the joint. That
messed up the rim tape and we got a big slice in the inner tube at
that spot.
Replace the rim with same model, same thing happened. Switched to a
different rim and that fixed it.
This seems to lie the blame at Velocity, yet I can see no reason why
there would be a considerable amount of oil inside the extrusion from
the manufacturing process. Has the wheelbuilder made the mistake of
applying light mineral oil to the nipples or oiled the eyelets/
ferrules to prevent squeaking?
We all know what isolated anecdotal testimonials mean, but a Pasela
saved my life! I kid I kid. However I've got a set of 32s on one bike
that have not flatted ever and go the darndest places. Can't think of
another 32mm tire that's as cheap, light, and durable as that one. Go
down 4mms and your choices broaden, of course.
I'm with you on rim strips. Velox is outdated tech. It's about as
compelling to me as the chicken Kotex at the bottom of the styrofoam
fridge packs full of bird parts. Plastics are the future here!
Hmm. At the start of a long tour, my daughter's relatively new bike
got three flats in quick succession because of a shifted rim strip.
We stopped at a pharmacy, I bought 1/2" medical adhesive tape and re-
did her rim with that, and it's been fine since. I've used it since
on other wheels I've built. So far it's better than "real" rim tape,
and I can buy adhesive tape a block from my home.
- Frank Krygowski
Yes, I've used this in a pinch and it's worked fine (held up for years,
so far). I keep a roll in my bike tool box.
yup, I agree, I had the same issue (well, only once) on a Velocity
deep-V - when I went to put the tubes/tires on one of the rim strips
was loose so I went around the corner and bought some rim tape. I
think it was Zefal brand. Since the deep-V's are "road" width wheels
I assumed that the narrow tape was what I wanted but it barely covered
the holes and sure enough I got a flat on that wheel right at one of
the holes. I was closer to another bike shop when that happened and
they had Velox, and the wider Velox blue tape was what I really
needed.
nate
Tubes do move inside a tire and tires do creep on
the rim. IIRC Jobst has pointed out that if you use a
tire boot that is not super strong (business card
definitely, dollar bill probably), after some amount of
riding it will be shredded by the tube squirm inside
the tire. This may be in the rec.bicycles FAQ.
Tube squirm is increased by underinflation and tire
creep is presumably worse if your tires are very flexible
or fit loosely. So switching to a different tire may have
fixed it. However, you might want to add a little adhesive
to the offending section of rim tape, or get some new tape.
Ben
>> My velox rim tape has been moving around and causing flat tires
>> from holes in the rim. I don't understand how this happens. After
>> the flat, the strip is difficult to move, meaning it is still
>> sticky, but just out of place.
>> regular 700c rim, and panracer pasalas. I do notice the sidewalls
>> are extremely flexible, I switched tires and have not had the
>> problem for over a week. Any ideas?
> Tubes do move inside a tire and tires do creep on the rim. IIRC
> Jobst has pointed out that if you use a tire boot that is not super
> strong (business card definitely, dollar bill probably), after some
> amount of riding it will be shredded by the tube squirm inside the
> tire. This may be in the rec.bicycles FAQ.
No they generally don't and from bias ply distortion, tubes become
adhered to the casing as many riders have noticed when they try to
pull a tube out of a casing. The damage to a cardboard business card
does not come from the card wandering but because the bias ply yaws on
the bias angle and paper does not stretch well diagonally. Therefore,
the card tears into 45 degree diagonals at about the cord spacing, or
about 1mm square oriented on a 45 diagonal.
This effect is what makes freshly patched tubes lose contact with
patches until their centers are lifted by air pressure while the tube
(bing smaller than the tire cross section, peels away until it reaches
the edge of the patch where air pressure prevents further separation.
> Tube squirm is increased by under-inflation and tire creep is
> presumably worse if your tires are very flexible or fit loosely. So
> switching to a different tire may have fixed it. However, you might
> want to add a little adhesive to the offending section of rim tape,
> or get some new tape.
Don't use that tape but rather Ritchey semi-stretch rim tape:
It doesn't creep and doesn't sag. It is identical in use with Torelli
or Rolf rim tape.
Jobst Brandt
Z�fal rim tape is Velox and there are 3 widths.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
I do remember him saying so. There is no relative movement between
tyre and tube with a fine tube, the tube takes on an impression of the
tyre carcass when it contains pick threads.
Doesn't happen when I patch inner tubes for covers, which I use
straight away.
Get some Vredestein tubes and use the patches as per the instructions.
>
> > Tube squirm is increased by under-inflation and tire creep is
> > presumably worse if your tires are very flexible or fit loosely. So
> > switching to a different tire may have fixed it. However, you might
> > want to add a little adhesive to the offending section of rim tape,
> > or get some new tape.
>
> Don't use that tape but rather Ritchey semi-stretch rim tape:
if there is oil in the rim, bodging ttthe job with a stretchy tape
w0nt prevvent the oil from rotting the tape and the tube. It needs
washing out.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/38772od
>
> It doesn't creep and doesn't sag. It is identical in use with Torelli
> or Rolf rim tape.
It doesn't delay the advancement of mineral oil in the rim to the
tube, which rots the tube. At least the linen/cotton tape will soak
up the oil and retain it a bit, but it still has to pass the gum
layer, which will dissolve and move if not wide enough. Wide enough
works, even with a little oil in there. I've had oil stained tape,
which although had slipped, did not displace sufficiently to cause
operational problems.
>
> Jobst Brandt
Wouldn't surprise me. My point was that even though I was using
"road" width wheels, the narrowest tape allowed the tape to shift
enough to cause a flat due to the holes in the inner wall of the rim,
while the "medium" size, while at a glance appearing to be too big,
actually was the correct stuff to use.
nate
And then there is:
"On my list of bike upgrades this is up there ranking with purple
glittery streamers for my bars, reflectors, and those things which
dont seem to exist when you pass the age of ten. You know, the round
plastic things which go on your spokes and fall up and down at low
speed. If anyone is actually seriously looking at a rim tape review
and not simply taking the piss, cut a strip from an old inner tube,
its free, and you can use the rest to cover your frame to stop the
chain nailing it."
What a clever fellow that was.
nate,
I had the same experience, with Velocity Razor rims, and the narrowest tape.
The "medium" was just right.
Kerry
I don't know. Both wheels were built by Velocity USA. They switched
to a different rim for wheel #3 and that one was OK.
The blame is at Velocity USA then. I'd guess the first two were
machine built with lubricated nipples. The third may be from a
different batch or hand built without the excess oil.
>On 30 Apr, 10:39, somebody <some...@somewhere.com> wrote:
>> On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 03:26:00 -0700 (PDT), thirty-six
>>
...
>>
>> >> �We had the same thing with a Velocity rim on a tandem. �Hard braking
>> >> heated it up enough for oily stuff to come out of the joint. �That
>> >> messed up the rim tape and we got a big slice in the inner tube at
>> >> that spot.
>>
>> >> Replace the rim with same model, same thing happened. �Switched to a
>> >> different rim and that fixed it.
>>
>> >This seems to lie the blame at Velocity, yet I can see no reason why
>> >there would be a considerable amount of oil inside the extrusion from
>> >the manufacturing process. �Has the wheelbuilder made the mistake of
>> >applying light mineral oil to the nipples or oiled the eyelets/
>> >ferrules to prevent squeaking?
>>
>> I don't know. �Both wheels were built by Velocity USA. �They switched
>> to a different rim for wheel #3 and that one was OK.
>
>The blame is at Velocity USA then. I'd guess the first two were
>machine built with lubricated nipples. The third may be from a
>different batch or hand built without the excess oil.
Funny you should mention that. The 3rd wheel was hand built, I spoke
with the builder. Their servicce was exceptional.
That brings up another question: How much oil is used when wheel
building? Can it really enough to soak the innenr part of the rim?
> >The blame is at Velocity USA then. I'd guess the first two were
> >machine built with lubricated nipples. The third may be from a
> >different batch or hand built without the excess oil.
>
> Funny you should mention that. The 3rd wheel was hand built, I spoke
> with the builder. Their servicce was exceptional.
>
> That brings up another question: How much oil is used when wheel
> building? Can it really enough to soak the innenr part of the rim?
There is no absolute requirement for lubrication during the building,
thread binding during building should be relieved by rim
manipulation. Using linseed oil, will prevent nipples from coming
loose and will dry into a gum, so will not affect any gummed rim tape
and will also lubricate the nipples for the lazy wheelbuilder who does
not use rim manipulation to relieve thread pressure (there are other
reasons to use it). A fine mineral oil, which is the most likely to
be used (easiest and cheapest) is always going to stay fluid and creep
from the threads and the outside of the nipple. The oiling is almost
essential in a machine building using nipple torque as an indication
of correct adjustment of spoke length. Without it, there would be
more wheels requiring hand adjustment. Velocity should address the
amount or type of oil they use or wash the rim with the wheel
finished. The use of mineral oil will also deteriorate rubber inner
tubes. Tubes in contact may last only a few months while rubber tubes
protected from such contaminants may last virtual;y indefinitely.