Linseed oil, Boiled or not????
Auggie3
unboiled?
TIA,
Matt
Matt Locker
Tim McNamara
aug...@aol.com (Auggie3) wrote:
> What version of linseed oil is used on spokes when building wheels, boiled
> or unboiled?
I just use regular oil. I have it handy and it works. Why use linseed
oil?
john.sc...@carle.com
aug...@aol.com (Auggie3) wrote:
> What version of linseed oil is used on spokes when building wheels,
boiled or
> unboiled?
>
> Matt
> Matt Locker
>
I've used boiled linseed oil because I have it and it works. One nice
thing about it is that it's quite liquid and works as a lubricant, but
as it dries it becomes hard.
Use boiled linseed oil, the regular stuff will never dry.
--
Thanks, John Schreiber
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
A Muzi
for 30 years. The idea is to get lubrication on the threads and the face of the
nipple against the rim/ferrule so you can get adequate tension. Raw linseed oil
does this and moreover sets up quite firmly so as to prevent loosening of spokes
when they are relaxed in impact. The gooey consistency still allows truing,
unlike loctite, and will not react with tires, tubes or rim liners, unlike
petroleum-based products. I but it at the art supply house nearby- I'm on my 3d
liter purchased in 1995- it's still half full and it's cheap. I don't know the
difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
Auggie3 wrote:
> What version of linseed oil is used on spokes when building wheels, boiled or
> unboiled?
>
> TIA,
> Matt
> Matt Locker
--
Yellow Jersey, Ltd
http://www.yellowjersey.org
http://www.execpc.com/yellowje
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Tom Kunich
"Auggie3" <aug...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001112145851...@ng-cf1.aol.com...
Zoot Katz
>I don't know the
>difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
The boiled stuff polymerizes faster. The "boiling" process removes portions
called "foots" and starts polymmerization. The "foots" prevent the raw
linseed oil from ever curing.
Boiled linseed oil is far slower curing and a forms a softer film than tung
oil extracted from Tung nuts. Tung also comes plain and polymerized.
(Wood finishing experience, not an artist)
--
zk
Damon Rinard
like "boiled" is the one you want. From
http://www.pumpschool.com/liquidlist/#L
LINSEED OIL
Other Names: Flaxseed oil
Viscosity: Ranges from 200 to 1600 cPs. in its raw or refined state.
Blown or boiled linseed oil may have viscosities of 11,000 cPs. or
higher.
Sp. Gr.: 0.95
Remarks: Linseed oil is a golden-yellow or brown oil with bland taste;
thickens and hardens on exposure to air; it is a typical drying oil
used on paints. Soluble in ether, chloroform, carbon disulfide and
turpentine. Used in making paints, varnishes, linoleum and oil cloth,
printing inks, synthetic resins, caulking, soap and pharmaceuticals.
Pump Notes: Cast iron construction is satisfactory. Buna n elastomers
are recommended. A mechanical shaft seal may be used depending on
liquid viscosity.
LINSEED OIL, BLOWN
Linseed oil which is bodied, i.e., its viscosity is increased by having
air bubbled through it while heated to 125ºC / 257ºF. The resulting
product dries to a harder film and is used largely in interior paints
and enamels. Pump construction recommendations are the same as for
linseed oil for the high viscosities.
LINSEED OIL, BOILED
This term is a misnomer since the oil is not boiled. Small amounts of
manganese, lead or cobalt are added to hot linseed oil. They serve to
accelerate the drying of the oil. Pump construction recommendations are
the same as for linseed oil for the high viscosities.
In article <20001112145851...@ng-cf1.aol.com>,
aug...@aol.com (Auggie3) wrote:
> What version of linseed oil is used on spokes when building wheels,
boiled or
> unboiled?
>
> TIA,
> Matt
> Matt Locker
>
--
Damon Rinard
e-mail: dri...@yahoo.com
Bicycle Tech Site: http://www.damonrinard.com/
==============================================
Jim Mearkle
rags spontaneously combust.
Tom Kunich
news:3a0f2447$0$20340$726...@news.execpc.com...
> I'm not an expert but I've happily built wheels with raw linseed oil
exclusively
> for 30 years. The idea is to get lubrication on the threads and the face
of the
> nipple against the rim/ferrule so you can get adequate tension. Raw
linseed oil
> does this and moreover sets up quite firmly so as to prevent loosening of
spokes
> when they are relaxed in impact. The gooey consistency still allows
truing,
> unlike loctite, and will not react with tires, tubes or rim liners, unlike
> petroleum-based products. I but it at the art supply house nearby- I'm on
my 3d
know the
> difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
Raw linseed oil takes a very long time to harden and then doesn't do a bang
up job of it. Raw linseed oil is used in the production of artist paints.
Boiled linseed oil hardens relatively rapidly and is used extensively in
furniture finishing. A piano-like finish is relatively easy to achieve with
boiled linseed oil and rottenstone on a good hardwood.
Patrick Lamb
>
> I'm not an expert but I've happily built wheels with raw linseed oil exclusively
> for 30 years. The idea is to get lubrication on the threads and the face of the
> nipple against the rim/ferrule so you can get adequate tension. Raw linseed oil
> does this and moreover sets up quite firmly so as to prevent loosening of spokes
> when they are relaxed in impact. The gooey consistency still allows truing,
> unlike loctite, and will not react with tires, tubes or rim liners, unlike
> petroleum-based products. I but it at the art supply house nearby- I'm on my 3d
> liter purchased in 1995- it's still half full and it's cheap. I don't know the
> difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
speed polymerization. Raw linseed oil may harden eventually. Maybe? I
hope?
(Not even boiled linseed oil hardens quickly. I shellac'ed a rocking
chair four years or so after finishing it with boiled oil. It doesn't
stick any more!)
A Muzi
you can always true the wheel. Ever walk into a truing job where someone put
Loctite on the nipples? Yuck.
Tom Kunich wrote:
> "A Muzi" <yell...@execpc.com> wrote in message
> news:3a0f2447$0$20340$726...@news.execpc.com...
> > I'm not an expert but I've happily built wheels with raw linseed oil
> exclusively
> > for 30 years. The idea is to get lubrication on the threads and the face
> of the
> > nipple against the rim/ferrule so you can get adequate tension. Raw
> linseed oil
> > does this and moreover sets up quite firmly so as to prevent loosening of
> spokes
> > when they are relaxed in impact. The gooey consistency still allows
> truing,
> > unlike loctite, and will not react with tires, tubes or rim liners, unlike
> > petroleum-based products. I but it at the art supply house nearby- I'm on
> my 3d
> > liter purchased in 1995- it's still half full and it's cheap. I don't
> know the
> > difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
>
> Raw linseed oil takes a very long time to harden and then doesn't do a bang
> up job of it. Raw linseed oil is used in the production of artist paints.
>
> Boiled linseed oil hardens relatively rapidly and is used extensively in
> furniture finishing. A piano-like finish is relatively easy to achieve with
> boiled linseed oil and rottenstone on a good hardwood.
--
Tom Kunich
it is almost like it wasn't there.
"A Muzi" <yell...@execpc.com> wrote in message
news:3a10742d$0$93850$272e...@news.execpc.com...
rkaufman
The term "boiled" comes from the onetime practice of boiling the oil to
partly oxidize it and jump start the polymerization process whereby the oil
would solidify, as in paint drying.
Modern boiled oils are not boiled, but have metalic salts added to speed
drying; lead used to be used, but not since about 1968 when it was outlawed
from paints. Manganesed driers are slightly less toxic,and are, I believe,
the drier usually added to make "boiled" linseed oil.
The raw oil takes about 30 days to dry, the boiled, about three.
Terrence Dick <tjd...@calum.csclub.uwaterloo.ca> wrote in message
news:8uvfdu$bdb$1...@watserv3.uwaterloo.ca...
> In article <3a0f2447$0$20340$726...@news.execpc.com>,
> A Muzi <yell...@execpc.com> wrote:
> >I'm not an expert but I've happily built wheels with raw linseed oil
exclusively
> ...
> >liter purchased in 1995- it's still half full and it's cheap. I don't
know the
> >difference between raw and boiled- any artists out there know?
> >
> >Auggie3 wrote:
> >
> >> What version of linseed oil is used on spokes when building wheels,
boiled or
> >> unboiled?
>
> I have a litre of "raw". I do recall that, for the "boiled", it said
> that it was poisonous, so don't give it to animals. The reason it said
> this is clear from the suggested uses for the raw stuff:
>
> -wood floor sealant
> -paint thinner
> -leather preservative
> -cattle laxative
>
> Now that's a general purpose product! Almost as good as duct tape. I
> don't recall what the "boiled" stuff is intended for.
>
> Curiously, neither mentioned bicycle spokes.
>
> -Terrence
>