Bikes for the Big and Tall
Gary Jackson
I am 6'4", 400lbs, and I am looking for a bicycle. I have three main
reasons riding a bicycle. First, I would like to be able to ride with
my wife occasionally. She's riding a Specialized Sequoyah that we
bought last week for her. It was considerably easier to shop for her.
Second, I would like to run short errands with the bicycle. It seems
like a terrible waste to start the car just to go to the grocery
store. Third, I would like to be able to commute with the bike. The
commute involves a lot of riding on two-lane roads including some
stretches where there is no shoulder.
I have not been on a bike in about 18 years, so I definitely will not
be riding my dodgy commuter route until I get in better shape and can
handle the bicycle proficiently. My last bicycle was some junky
Wally-World 24" thing with a gear shift that did not work that I used
until I outgrew it completely. I am a little concerned about getting
back in the saddle, particularly since my form was never very good in
the first place.
I've been doing a lot of research to find out what my options are. I
am working with a particular budget in mind that does not fit too many
of the things that I am about to list. However, I have included
them here for reference and comparison purposes. This post is a
response and update to a post from Chalo Colina to rec.bicycles.misc
from about a year ago:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.misc/msg/3adb61b486b8a06d?
Some of the information has changed in the last year. Some of it is
the same, but I go in to more detail about the offerings. In
particular, I have focused my attention on the components that Chalo
has picked out as important, such as wheels and cranksets. Sometimes
the information on a vendor's website is not clear. In those cases, I
have sent mail to them and asked for details or a clarification. I
also address some other options that were not mentioned in the
previous post.
Before I get in to the nitty gritty, I need to make a point: I am not
an expert. As I have stated previously, it has been a very long time
since I have been on a bicycle. Anything that is written here is done
because I read it on a web page some where, not from any actual
practical experience. When you take advice from random people on the
internet, you take your life and safety in to your own hands. This is
doubly true in this case because I do not even pretend to know what I
am talking about. By that same token, if you see some point on which
I am clearly wrong, please reply so that others will not be mislead by
my mistake.
II. Existing Bicycles Marketed to Large Riders
The first three bicycles addressed here seem to be the big three in
terms of bicycles targeted to the fat man market. They are well
built machines with quality components with a commensurate price tag.
The last two are more affordable but may have problems of their own.
A. Schauff Sumo
The first bicycle that Chalo addressed is the Schauff Sumo. This fine
piece of German engineering has a rated capacity of 200kg (440lb) and
comes in frame sizes up to 80cm (27.5 in). They also sell a mountain
bike version with a capacity of 170kg (375lb). The finished bicycle
weighs in at 18.5kg (40lb), which seems to be about what to expect for
an overbuilt bicycle for large men. The frame is 7020 Aluminum and it
has the big 1.5" head tube. The Sumo uses Shimano Saint or Hone parts
at various trim levels. At the top trim level, Shauff offers the
Rohloff 14-gear hub. The Sumo has 36-spoke wheels with disc brakes.
As far as I can tell, it uses 26" wheels. This bicycle is priced from
about $2900 to $4700. The cost of the highest trim level is probably
due to the Rohloff hub, which by itself costs more than most
bicycles. There is still no North American distributor for Schauff.
As Chalo noted, buying one might involve negotiating with one of their
international distributors.
B. Utopia Velo London
http://www.utopia-fahrrad.de/Fahrrad_Html/Kapitel_Html/81_London_104.html
The London is a bicycle offered by the German company Utopia Velo.
Their website was entirely in German, so it was a little hard for me
to figure out what the details of their offering are. Aside from
being another overbuilt German panzerkampfvelo with the Rohloff hub
option, this bicycle very different than the Sumo. Where the Sumo is
more tour oriented, the London seems to be more comfort oriented. The
London is built on a Chromium-Molybdenum steel frame with a 1-1/8 head
tube in sizes up to 88cm. As far as other components are concerned,
Utopia Velo offers a great many options. I have no idea what most of
them mean. The bicycle uses 28" wheels with 36 spokes and rim
brakes. The London price is clustered around $2500-$3000, with an
exception for the Rohloff hub model, which costs around $4000. As far
as I can tell, Utopia bicycles are not distributed internationally.
They seem to be sold all over Germany, as well as one shop each in
Austria
and The Netherlands. That seems like a good excuse to go to Munich
for Oktoberfest. Buy a big 'ol bike while you're there and ship it
home to burn
off all that beer when you get back.
C. Co-Motion Mazama
http://www.co-motion.com/single_bikes/mazama.html
The Mazama rounds out the trio of high end bicycles. Unlike the other
two, the Mazama is made in America. In fact, my friendly local
bicycle store is a Co-Motion dealer. However, this bicycle is well
outside of my price range. Co-Motion lists no rated capacity for the
Mazama, so I sent them mail and asked if I would fit. They suggested
that the handlebar and seatpost would probably have to be replaced.
Furthermore, if my size exceeded the largest frame available (62cm),
they suggested that I can get a custom sized frame. The Mazama uses
Shimano XT/XTR components for the transmission. It uses a
RaceFace Deus crankset. The wheels use tandem components. They are
36
or 40 spoke 700C Velocity Dyad rims with 700x35 tires and disc
brakes. The list price for the Co-Motion Mazama is $2895. The
Co-Pilot model is $3575. The Co-Pilot frame can be pulled apart in
the middle and packed for airline travel. The frame and fork alone
can be had for less.
D. Zize A New Leaf
http://www.supersizedcycles.com/product/HeavyDutyBicycle
Zize is the brand name for the self-produced bicycles at
supersizedcycles.com. Their model A New Leaf is the one I am most
interested in, so that is the one I focus on here. Chalo Colina was
pretty dismissive of this manufacturer. The web site is frustratingly
detail-light when it comes to the specifics of their bicycles. They
claim to be able to support a rider of 550lbs. There is no frame
geometry or even a selection of frame sizes on their site. I sent
them mail about the lack of detail or even sizing information. They
told me that the frame they send you is sized based on inseam
measurement. They also account for irregular proportions if you send
those measurements as well. They did not actually say the frames were
custom of any sort, so I guess they have a stock of different sized
frames and they pick what you get. I also asked them about their
components. They said the reason why they did not list specific
components on the website is because their operation is so small that
they cannot get the kind of steady parts supply that other builders
can. They did send me the component list for their initial prototype
and assured me that any parts shipped on a bike were at the same level
or better.
The rear wheel is built around a Shimano Nexus 7 speed hub with roller
brake. The rims are Sun Rhyno Lite with 36 spokes. For what it's
worth, this contradicts their photograph. The crankset is the FSA X
Drive. It gets spotty reviews on mtbr.com. The complaint is not with
the crank arms, but with the bottom bracket component itself:
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/crankset/fsa/x-drive-bash/PRD_360202_115crx.aspx
The list price is $1749.99.
E. Kona Hoss
http://www.konaworld.com/08_hoss_w.htm
Rounding out the big man bikes is the Kona Hoss, marketed to
Clydesdales by name. As far as I can tell, a Clydesdale is an athlete
who weighs in excess of 200lb, so we can assume that the bike will
support that. I wrote Kona about this, and they suggested that I
should visit a Kona dealer for the best advice, though the Hoss would
be fine for me after upgrading the grips, tires, and seat. The Hoss
comes in sizes up to 22". The drive train is mostly Shimano Deore
components. The wheels are 26" with 32 spokes and disc brakes. The
crankset is the FSA Alpha Drive ISIS, which has lots of negative
reviews on mtbr.com and a record of failure:
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/crankset/fsa/alpha-drive/PRD_360198_115crx.aspx
It is also unique on this list in that it has a suspension fork. The
list price for the Kona Hoss is $999.
III. Other Bicycles
There are some other bicycles that may be appropriate for large men,
though they are not explicitly marketed that way. I will discuss
three of these bicycles: the Specialized Hardrock, the Worksman Coney
Island Cruiser, and the Ellsworth The Ride. The last one may seem
unconventional, but I will address that in a moment. There are also
some other manufacturers of custom bicycles, recumbents, and trikes
who may be able to put together a nice ride, for a price.
A. Specialized Hardrock
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=08Hardrock
The Specialized Hardrock seems to be a favorite on the mtbr.com
Clydesdale forum:
http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95
The Specialized Hardrock has no stated capacity, so I asked them if I
would be able to ride it safely. They were pretty frank in answering
me, saying it would not be safe as configured. They suggested that
replacing the wheels and fork would be sufficient. The Hardrock comes
in a variety of sizes, including 21" and 24". This is important: the
Hardrock is the only frame I've found that comes in such a large stock
size that also is not part of some high-priced German tour de force.
In fact, I've had a hard time finding anything at all above a 22" in a
beefy frame. The Hardrock is fitted with low end Shimano and Suntour
components. The Hardrock Sport base line model has a 32-spoke wheel
with rim brakes, and the higher level models have 32-spoke wheels with
disc brakes. The Hardrock also has a suspension fork that would have
to be replaced. List prices are $420, $550, and $660.
B. Worksman Coney Island Cruiser
http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/cruisers.html
The Worksman Coney Island Cruiser is the straight-bar cruiser in the
Worksman American Cruiser lineup. It is the only one that comes in a
20" frame, the largest they sell. Supersizedcycles.com resells the
Worksman cruiser and states a capacity of 330lb, which is far too
small for me. The Cruiser uses a Shimano internal gearing hub with a
coaster brake in up to seven speeds. It also has an optional front
drm brake. By default, the rims are 36h and made out of steel. These
bicycles start at $299.99, and a fully tweaked out model would still
be less than $1000.
C. Ellsworth The Ride
This probably seems a little ridiculous to the experienced reader.
Bear with me for a moment, though. They claim that they can fit any
rider with their "Expanding Universe" system. I wrote them and asked
if I would fit. They told me that they would fit me with a metal
seatpost instead of carbon fiber, and they suggested that I get the
base model with the chain drive instead of the belt drive. I have
never ridden their bikes, so I could not say whether The Ride would
actually fit my frame, much less my weight. Perhaps someone has
experience with this bicycle and can share its limitations. The Ride
uses a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) hub for gearing
instead of a conventional geared hub or a deraileur system. The
wheels are 32-spoke with disc brakes in the back and apparently no
brakes in the front. It has 26"x3" wheels. The fork is made of
carbon fiber. The list price for the base model is $2995.
D. Other Miscellaneous Makers
Zinn will make custom bikes for very tall men and for heavy men.
However, these are all custom. S&B Recumbents will make recumbent
bicycles and recumbent tricycles for 400lb riders, including those
nifty tadpole style trikes. Lightfoot makes the Ranger, a stock
recumbent that
will take a 350lb rider of up to 6'5" tall. They will make a longer
frame. I am unsure if they will make a frame to carry heavier people,
and I have not gotten a return mail from them yet about my inquiry.
Otherwise, stock recumbents seem to have a capacity for a rider of
no more than 275lb.
IV. Chalo's Frankenstein
Chalo Colina suggested that a very suitable bicycle could be built up
from existing parts. I went down the parts list and tried to find
these things to get a ballpark estimate for the total parts price.
Where I could not find a particular part, I tried to find something
equivalent, at least in terms of advertised functionality. Some parts
I picked for no other reason than I like them.
Hub: Gusset Jury Rear Hub
I could not find a US dealer for this part. It costs about 70 GBP
($140) from dealers in the United Kingdom.
Rims: Salsa Gordo 48h
I could not find Sun-Ringle King Pin rims. This is another 26" rim
that I found with 48 holes. These are $50 each.
Tires: Schwalbe Big Apple
These tires cost about $40 each.
Crankset: Redline MONSTER
This can be had for about $60.
Chainring: Odyssey Million Dollar
About $50. This has an integral external guard, and one can buy bolt
on internal guards for total sprocket protection on both sides.
Handlebars: Odyssey Lumberjack
This is an 8" BMX handlebar. It's About $70.
Seat: Electra Townie Saddle
Electra will sell you one for $24.
So, assuming we are using high end spokes that are roughly a dollar a
piece, we are up over $600 on our budget now before buying a frame and
a lot of other expensive parts. This also does not include the labor
cost from the local bike store, if they will even do it for us.
Fortunately, some communities have open bike shops where we can
take your bike in and work on it using shared tools.
Frame: ???
The frame is where things get messy. The Nashbar frame that Chalo
recommends is no longer sold by Nashbar. Now, they have a different
steel frame called the Nashbar Signature 853 Mountain Frame. It only
comes in sizes up to 21.5. It has a $399 list price, but the current
price is $289:
The Surly Instigator is another frame that Chalo mentioned. It only
comes in sizes up to 20:
http://www.surlybikes.com/instigator.html
It can be had for about $400:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FR310A01-Surly+Instigator+Frame.aspx
There are plenty of "dirtjumper/urban assault" frames that are built
very solid, but they only come in very small sizes and seem to have a
geometry suited only to doing tricks. There's nothing wrong with
that, but those solid frames cannot really be used by tall people.
There are plenty of Aluminum hardtail frames out there. Some of them
have got to come in the right size. Furthermore, the local bike shop
might have some old ones on hand, as well.
V. What Now?
Given my budget, I really only have two reasonable choices from the
things listed above. I could buy the Kona Hoss and start upgrading,
or I could buy the Specialized Hardrock and start upgrading. My
choices may be even more limited, because I have no idea what size
frame I will need for proper fit. At this point, I'm leaning towards
the Hardrock since lots of people like it, the lower price means I
have more in the rest of my budget for aftermarket upgrades. Though
the crankset may be unknown, at least it is not known to fail during
use like the one on the Hoss. The idea here is to build up something
like a pseudo-Sumo over time, where parts are upgraded in small groups
until I have something that only needs preventative maintenance.
The bottom line is, though, that I need to go to my local bike store
and find a bike that fits. It may be that the Hoss just feels better
to me, in which case I'm better off spending more money on that bike
and replacing the crank before it goes.
There may be more non-conventional options. A bullet proof jumbo
sized fixed gear built up from parts would be cool and hopefully
cheap. I'd have a better chance of actually getting it put together
and working myself, I think, too. I'm not sure if that's appropriate
for my experience and intended use, though.
Maybe I should save my money and walk off the weight until I can fit a
more conventional bike. I have a hybrid commute that is part carpool
and part free bus, so I am not pressed to stop using my car to
commute.
I am open to other suggestions.
VI. Some Questions
I have some questions. Maybe you can answer them.
A. Is there any way to estimate the labor cost for something like
Chalo's Frankenstein from the friendly local bicycle store? Any store
owners care to chime in about whether you would do that for me and how
much you would charge?
B. There are open shops in other towns where one can bring a bicycle
in and do work using shared tools. Is there anything like that in the
Greater Baltimore/Washington, DC area? I should probably direct this
question to a local forum as well.
C. Are there any books or online tutorials out there for putting
together a bicycle from parts?
D. What other stuff do I need? Presumably I need a pump, a car rack
for taking bicycles to safe places on weekends, and some safety
devices. Is there anything else that I need?
E. I'm thinking of dropping by the Goodwill store tomorrow afternoon
to pick up a beater so I can work on form out in the parking lot. I'm
hoping to get myself re-aquainted with cycling before I go and scratch
up some new bike that the local biking store puts underneath me to try
out. Is this a bad idea? How likely is a catastrophic failure under
gentle usage conditions with a thrift store special? Will this course
of action result only in tears and a trip to the emergency room?
Thanks for reading the whole thing.
--
Gary
Hank
>
> The first bicycle that Chalo addressed is the Schauff Sumo. This fine
> piece of German engineering has a rated capacity of 200kg (440lb) and
> comes in frame sizes up to 80cm (27.5 in). They also sell a mountain
> bike version with a capacity of 170kg (375lb). The finished bicycle
> weighs in at 18.5kg (40lb), which seems to be about what to expect for
> an overbuilt bicycle for large men. The frame is 7020 Aluminum and it
> has the big 1.5" head tube. The Sumo uses Shimano Saint or Hone parts
> at various trim levels. At the top trim level, Shauff offers the
> Rohloff 14-gear hub. The Sumo has 36-spoke wheels with disc brakes.
> As far as I can tell, it uses 26" wheels. This bicycle is priced from
> about $2900 to $4700. The cost of the highest trim level is probably
> due to the Rohloff hub, which by itself costs more than most
> bicycles. There is still no North American distributor for Schauff.
> As Chalo noted, buying one might involve negotiating with one of their
> international distributors.
>
> B. Utopia Velo London
>
>
> The list price is $1749.99.
>
> E. Kona Hoss
>
> http://www.konaworld.com/08_hoss_w.htm
>
> Rounding out the big man bikes is the Kona Hoss, marketed to
> Clydesdales by name. As far as I can tell, a Clydesdale is an athlete
> who weighs in excess of 200lb, so we can assume that the bike will
> support that. I wrote Kona about this, and they suggested that I
> should visit a Kona dealer for the best advice, though the Hoss would
> be fine for me after upgrading the grips, tires, and seat. The Hoss
> comes in sizes up to 22". The drive train is mostly Shimano Deore
> components. The wheels are 26" with 32 spokes and disc brakes. The
> crankset is the FSA Alpha Drive ISIS, which has lots of negative
> reviews on mtbr.com and a record of failure:
>
>
> The Surly Instigator is another frame that Chalo mentioned. It only
> comes in sizes up to 20:
>
> http://www.surlybikes.com/instigator.html
>
> It can be had for about $400:
>
I'm wondering if a straight-ahead touring bike might do the trick. I
weigh 250, and I've hung over 75 lbs of gear on my Surly Long Haul
Trucker, and it was rock solid. It comes stock with 36 spoke wheels,
which isn't as common as it should be. Tires are a bouncy 37mm. I'm 6'-
even and ride a 60cm model, though most six-footers go for a 58cm.
They make a 62cm, which would probably fit you fine, though you might
want to upgrade the stock Kalloy seatpost with a Thompson, if you have
the seat very high at all. The complete bike sells for under a grand,
and is nothing if not overbuilt.
http://www.surlybikes.com/lht_comp.html
Send them mail, see what they think, if it can handle that much man.
jim beam
> I. Introduction
>
> I am 6'4", 400lbs, and I am looking for a bicycle.
<snip>
tldr.
google this group for the experiences of chalo colina. regular
contributor. big guy. he'll set you straight.
Jasper Janssen
wrote:
You might have at least skimmed it, even if you were too lazy to read,
which would have prevented you from inserting your foot quite that deep in
your mouth.
Jasper
jim beam
eh?
Gary Jackson
> > wrote:
> >> Gary Jackson wrote:
> >>> I. Introduction
>
> >>> I am 6'4", 400lbs, and I am looking for a bicycle.
> >> <snip>
>
> >> tldr.
>
> >> google this group for the experiences of chalo colina. regular
> >> contributor. big guy. he'll set you straight.
>
> > You might have at least skimmed it, even if you were too lazy to read,
> > which would have prevented you from inserting your foot quite that deep in
> > your mouth.
>
> eh?
He's saying that my post makes it clear that I am aware of Chalo
Colina and his posts here and in other forums with respect to heavy
riders. My missive is in large part an expansion and an update to a
post from Chalo Colina from about a year ago.
--
Gary
Peter Cole
> I. Introduction
>
> I am 6'4", 400lbs, and I am looking for a bicycle.
>
> A. Specialized Hardrock
>
> http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=08Hardrock
>
> The Specialized Hardrock seems to be a favorite on the mtbr.com
> Clydesdale forum:
>
> http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95
>
> The Specialized Hardrock has no stated capacity, so I asked them if I
> would be able to ride it safely. They were pretty frank in answering
> me, saying it would not be safe as configured. They suggested that
> replacing the wheels and fork would be sufficient. The Hardrock comes
> in a variety of sizes, including 21" and 24".
I think the most economical solution is an upgraded MTB. At your size, a
well made MTB should be adequate for road riding since they are designed
for much more stressful terrain.
My guess is that the typical wheels would be adequate if properly set
up. Ditto for the cranks, although I wouldn't pedal standing -- just in
case.
The biggest problem with a stock set up I see would be the seat post and
fork. The seat post is a concern because you're both tall and heavy, so
that means a lot of extension with a large load. Aluminum MTB frames
help here, because the seat tube is usually a larger diameter than most
other frames, but I'd still be concerned with a stock post. I'd also
worry about the fork, not only for possible failure, but also that it
would bottom out just from static load.
Unfortunately, most of the replacement seat posts and forks seem
designed for lower weight, not greater strength.
I'm 6'10"/235lb. I typically ride either MTB's or touring bikes. I've
done lots of fairly extreme off-road riding, including years of pulling
a 100+ lb trailer. I have used 22 in MTB frames and 68cm touring frames.
I prefer (when I can) to use MTB components on my road bikes
(cheaper/stronger).
On my first MTB (12 years ago), I originally used a rigid steel fork,
upgrading after a couple of years to a "downhill" suspension fork. I
reasoned that this might be stronger than a "cross country" fork, since
downhillers don't care about weight. It worked well, never even wore the
bushings after 1,000's of trail miles. I swapped the frame & fork a
couple of years ago for a frame off a $300 mail-order MTB (GT) and a
low-end suspension fork (RS Dart). Those have been fine.
I think you could probably get by with a 22" frame, although you might
be better off with a 24", if you can find one, since it'll require less
seat post extension. I currently use a 425mm post, out all the way to
the minimum insertion mark, something that gives me pause, even at my
weight. A rigid steel fork would probably be the ideal way to go.
Gary Jackson
> I think the most economical solution is an upgraded MTB. At your size, a
> well made MTB should be adequate for road riding since they are designed
> for much more stressful terrain.
I agree.
> My guess is that the typical wheels would be adequate if properly set
> up. Ditto for the cranks, although I wouldn't pedal standing -- just in
> case.
I was planning on leaving those components for the time being. Wheel
spoke failure sounds like it usually isn't catastrophic, so I'll
probably just ride it until something breaks then think about
upgrading the drive train.
> The biggest problem with a stock set up I see would be the seat post and
> fork. The seat post is a concern because you're both tall and heavy, so
> that means a lot of extension with a large load. Aluminum MTB frames
> help here, because the seat tube is usually a larger diameter than most
> other frames, but I'd still be concerned with a stock post. I'd also
> worry about the fork, not only for possible failure, but also that it
> would bottom out just from static load.
Chalo suggests getting a solid bar of 7025 aluminum milled down in to
a seatpost. I suppose this means I need to find a machine shop or
make friends with someone who has a machinist's lathe.
> I think you could probably get by with a 22" frame, although you might
> be better off with a 24", if you can find one, since it'll require less
> seat post extension. I currently use a 425mm post, out all the way to
> the minimum insertion mark, something that gives me pause, even at my
> weight. A rigid steel fork would probably be the ideal way to go.
I've definitely been planning on replacing the fork. I'll probably go
with the Instigator fork, since Surly seems to have a pretty good
reputation.
--
Gary
Tim McNamara
Congratulations on wanting to take up bicycling. It's a great way to
get around.
It really shouldn't be that hard to find a bike that would work for you.
At your height, a 62 cm road type frame would work well in terms of
sizing (e.g., the largest Mazama). The frame part is actually pretty
easy, IMHO. The main issues to address would be adequate wheel strength
(I'd go with 48 spoke wheels- wheels for a tandem ought to fill the bill
just fine) and adequate brakes. Chalo is, out of necessity, way more up
on the latter than I am. You'd want wider tires than most road bikes,
too.
In terms of frames, basically what you're looking for is a tandem built
for one. Bob Brown Cycles in St. Paul MN has experience in building
frames for big/tall people.
http://www.bobbrowncycles.com/
He built one for Scott Cutshall, who started riding bike when he weighed
500 pounds.
http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/health/16782826.html
http://istanbultea.typepad.com/
http://thegearjunkie.com/large-fella-on-a-bike
FWIW, the prototype for the Mazama was built for Rivendell Bicycle
Works, who decided they couldn't produce it but looked for someone who
could- Co-Motion was interested in developing and refining the project.
Rob Lindauer
>
> II. Existing Bicycles Marketed to Large Riders
>
Here's another one for the list - although so far as I can see they
market only in Europe
http://www.cactus10.com/bigboy/bigboy-en.html
--
Rob Lindauer - Please change "att" to "sbc" for my real email address
Michael Press
<a2cfa53a-df6b-4613...@m3g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
Gary Jackson <bar...@gmail.com> wrote:
Understand from the start that propelling a bicycle is
work. Many people who start out on a bicycle do not take
into account that they are not physically adapted to ride
a bicycle, and become discouraged when they are blindsided
by this aspect. Adapting can take a bit of time: a year
or more. You will adapt and you will be adapting the
bicycle to suit yourself. Biking is fun, and cheap fun too.
In addition to physical challenges one must learn to
control the bicycle while maintaining attention for what
is going on around you; looking at the roadway so as to
avoid debris and obstacles; and plotting your course.
You should add to your list of candidates the cargo bicycle
with long wheel bases and built to carry a rider and cargo
of more than average mass.
<http://www.cargocycling.org/2007/06/bakfiets-two-wh.html>
<http://relocalize.net/yuba_mundo_cargo_bicycle_is_here>
<http://www.davidwilsonindustries.com/gallery/cargo/borracho/index.html>
And there is the Xtracycle kit.
--
Michael Press
Gary Jackson
> <snip detailed discussion>
>
> Congratulations on wanting to take up bicycling. It's a great way to
> get around.
It's looking like it might be a great intellectual hobby as well.
Getting a bike together within my budget will require at least some
tinkering. Fortunately, the University where I work has an open bike
shop with tools and instructors who will teach walk-in people how to
work on their bicycles.
> It really shouldn't be that hard to find a bike that would work for you.
> At your height, a 62 cm road type frame would work well in terms of
> sizing (e.g., the largest Mazama). The frame part is actually pretty
> easy, IMHO. The main issues to address would be adequate wheel strength
> (I'd go with 48 spoke wheels- wheels for a tandem ought to fill the bill
> just fine) and adequate brakes. Chalo is, out of necessity, way more up
> on the latter than I am. You'd want wider tires than most road bikes,
> too.
I wonder out loud if 40 or 48 spokes is enough to make up for the
necessary wheel asymmetry for disc brakes, for my purpose.
> In terms of frames, basically what you're looking for is a tandem built
> for one. Bob Brown Cycles in St. Paul MN has experience in building
> frames for big/tall people.
>
> http://www.bobbrowncycles.com/
<snipped bit about Scott Cutshall>
Good point. I'd read the Star-Tribune article, but somehow Bob Brown
didn't make it in to my notes.
--
Gary
Gary Jackson
> Gary Jackson wrote:
>
> > II. Existing Bicycles Marketed to Large Riders
>
> Here's another one for the list - although so far as I can see they
> market only in Europe
>
> http://www.cactus10.com/bigboy/bigboy-en.html
The page itself is pretty detail-light. The white "Fat Frank" tires
look pretty sweet, though they probably lose a bit of that after
riding around on dirty asphalt. There appears to be some
supplementary material including a price list, but those links are
broken at the moment. I sent them mail to let them know. I've also
asked them if their bicycles are available in the United States.
I should probably send a similar query to Schauff and Utopia Velo.
--
Gary
jim beam
"aware of" and "paying attention to" appear to be two different things.
Tim McNamara
<2f9c40bd-3353-44e5...@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
Gary Jackson <bar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 6, 3:07 pm, Tim McNamara <tim...@bitstream.net> wrote:
> > <snip detailed discussion>
> >
> > Congratulations on wanting to take up bicycling. It's a great way
> > to get around.
>
> It's looking like it might be a great intellectual hobby as well.
> Getting a bike together within my budget will require at least some
> tinkering. Fortunately, the University where I work has an open bike
> shop with tools and instructors who will teach walk-in people how to
> work on their bicycles.
>
> > It really shouldn't be that hard to find a bike that would work for
> > you. At your height, a 62 cm road type frame would work well in
> > terms of sizing (e.g., the largest Mazama). The frame part is
> > actually pretty easy, IMHO. The main issues to address would be
> > adequate wheel strength (I'd go with 48 spoke wheels- wheels for a
> > tandem ought to fill the bill just fine) and adequate brakes.
> > Chalo is, out of necessity, way more up on the latter than I am.
> > You'd want wider tires than most road bikes, too.
>
> I wonder out loud if 40 or 48 spokes is enough to make up for the
> necessary wheel asymmetry for disc brakes, for my purpose.
Well, considering the asymmetry caused in the read wheel by the
cassette- known as "dish"- disks would cause only a slight dish to the
wheel. I'm not all that convinced about disk brakes and there are some
potential problems (rotor warpage, wheel ejection, etc.). Searching the
group for "disk brakes" and "wheel ejection" will provide you with
several very extensive threads on the topic, complete with intense
vituperation.
> > In terms of frames, basically what you're looking for is a tandem
> > built for one. Bob Brown Cycles in St. Paul MN has experience in
> > building frames for big/tall people.
> >
> > http://www.bobbrowncycles.com/
>
> <snipped bit about Scott Cutshall>
>
> Good point. I'd read the Star-Tribune article, but somehow Bob Brown
> didn't make it in to my notes.
Bob does nice work.
jim beam
> On Jun 6, 3:07 pm, Tim McNamara <tim...@bitstream.net> wrote:
>> <snip detailed discussion>
>>
>> Congratulations on wanting to take up bicycling. It's a great way to
>> get around.
>
> It's looking like it might be a great intellectual hobby as well.
eh?
> Getting a bike together within my budget will require at least some
> tinkering. Fortunately, the University where I work has an open bike
> shop with tools and instructors who will teach walk-in people how to
> work on their bicycles.
>
>> It really shouldn't be that hard to find a bike that would work for you.
>> At your height, a 62 cm road type frame would work well in terms of
>> sizing (e.g., the largest Mazama). The frame part is actually pretty
>> easy, IMHO. The main issues to address would be adequate wheel strength
>> (I'd go with 48 spoke wheels- wheels for a tandem ought to fill the bill
>> just fine) and adequate brakes. Chalo is, out of necessity, way more up
>> on the latter than I am. You'd want wider tires than most road bikes,
>> too.
>
> I wonder out loud if 40 or 48 spokes is enough to make up for the
> necessary wheel asymmetry for disc brakes, for my purpose.
for front hubs, it's a minor difference, maybe 10%. for rears, it's zero.
Gary Jackson
> Understand from the start that propelling a bicycle is
> work. Many people who start out on a bicycle do not take
> into account that they are not physically adapted to ride
> a bicycle, and become discouraged when they are blindsided
> by this aspect. Adapting can take a bit of time: a year
> or more. You will adapt and you will be adapting the
> bicycle to suit yourself. Biking is fun, and cheap fun too.
I get that. I started geocaching about a year ago. Every time I
climbed a hill I thought I was going to pass out and die. I walk much
more regularly now, and hills are much easier. I know it's not the
same with a bicycle: I'll be using different muscles in different
ways, and I'm going to pay for it to begin with.
> In addition to physical challenges one must learn to
> control the bicycle while maintaining attention for what
> is going on around you; looking at the roadway so as to
> avoid debris and obstacles; and plotting your course.
This concerns me quite a bit. I'd rather not inconvenience an SUV
driver by getting my blood all up in their wheel wells. I found out
today that I can rent a mountain bike from the University for $15/day,
which will give me a chance to get used to bicycles again in a large
and relatively safe place that I know very well.
> You should add to your list of candidates the cargo bicycle
> with long wheel bases and built to carry a rider and cargo
> of more than average mass.
>
> <http://www.cargocycling.org/2007/06/bakfiets-two-wh.html>
> <http://relocalize.net/yuba_mundo_cargo_bicycle_is_here>
> <http://www.davidwilsonindustries.com/gallery/cargo/borracho/index.html>
Those are pretty cool, but I think they may present handling problems
to uncoordinated, inexperienced riders. The article about bakfiets
states that the two-wheel cargo bikes are hard to handle at low speed,
and that cargo trikes present a tip danger at higher speeds.
Speaking of bakfiets and other types of fiets, I went looking to see
if the famous solid-built, upright-posture Dutch bikes can be had in
the United States. The answer is yes, but only in a few places. One
dealer on the west coast carries the Dutch brand Azor and the Danish
brand Velorbis:
http://www.dutchbikeseattle.com/html/bikes/index.html
I sent these guys mail while composing this post. They got back to me
right away. They suggested that the 65cm or 70cm Transport, or the
65cm Kruisframe would be most appropriate. Unfortunately, those bikes
are far enough out of my budget to make stretching impossible. That's
too bad.
Dutch bicycle distributor for the United States:
> And there is the Xtracycle kit.
I worry about those for heavy riders. The rear wheel is moved back to
make room for the super sized cargo area, so more strain is put on the
middle of the bike frame.
--
Gary
Andre Jute
> if the famous solid-built, upright-posture Dutch bikes can be had in
> the United States. The answer is yes, but only in a few places. One
> dealer on the west coast carries the Dutch brand Azor and the Danish
> brand Velorbis:
>
> http://www.dutchbikeseattle.com/html/bikes/index.html
> Dutch bicycle distributor for the United States:
>
> http://www.dutchbikes.us
When I wanted a Dutch city bike, I called every single dealer in both
countries on my island, and only one was willing to order me a Giant
-- at a premium over the Continental price that popped my eyes.
Instead, I imported a Dutch Gazelle from a German dealer and for the
same money the local dealer wanted for a low-level Giant got an elite
limited edition Gazelle, and a few years later I imported an even more
upmarket Trek "Smover" (automatic gearbox, electronically controlled
active suspension, hub dynamo, stunning wheels specially designed by
Ketih Bontrager) from a Belgian dealer. In both cases I got a good
deal on the carriage, which would otherwise have killed the attraction
of these bikes for me. You can read about my Dutch city bikes at
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html --
Gazelle makes really big bikes for really big Dutchmen, bigger even
than mine. A Gazelle is like a Rolls-Royce of bikes; they have to make
good bikes because the Dutch are just about the rudest people in the
world when things do not go right, and they have a very firm grasp on
concepts like consumer rights. The thing is to go shopping on the net
until you find someone who has an "overjarige" (Dutch for last year's
model) bike that's being discounted, and who's willing to ship the
bike to you. I've done this twice, as I say, and come out happy both
times. German Ebay at ebay.de is a good place to start -- just search
for Gazelle or Hollandrad. Bikers Store in The Netherlands for a while
offered a package of a Gazelle utility bike and carriage to the US at
what seemed attractive prices; I don't know if they still do; I didn't
order a bike from them but I've bought parts and clothing from them by
mailorder and found them efficient.
Good luck in your search for a bike that fits.
Andre Jute
A little inaccuracy sometimes saves tons of explanation. --H.H.Munro
("Saki")(1870-1916)
Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
"wonderfully well written and reasoned information
for the tube audio constructor"
John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
"an unbelievably comprehensive web site
containing vital gems of wisdom"
Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review
(PeteCresswell)
>You might have at least skimmed it, even if you were too lazy to read,
>which would have prevented you from inserting your foot quite that deep in
>your mouth.
>
>Jasper
That one flew right over my head. Anybody care to explain?
--
PeteCresswell
Dan Becker
<x...@y.Invalid> wrote:
If I recall, you recommended that the OP do a google search for Chalo's
posts, when the OP's post indicated that he had already done so, and in
fact cited a specific post.
I think.
Dan
Tim McNamara
Dan Becker <No...@address.invalid> wrote:
I think that was jim beam making that recommendation, not Pete. IIRC,
now I'm the one who's too lazy to check back through the thread for
Jasper's post.
Michael Press
<e2b7798d-5f69-4a53...@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
Gary Jackson <bar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 6, 5:30 pm, Michael Press <rub...@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > In addition to physical challenges one must learn to
> > control the bicycle while maintaining attention for what
> > is going on around you; looking at the roadway so as to
> > avoid debris and obstacles; and plotting your course.
>
> This concerns me quite a bit. I'd rather not inconvenience an SUV
> driver by getting my blood all up in their wheel wells. I found out
> today that I can rent a mountain bike from the University for $15/day,
> which will give me a chance to get used to bicycles again in a large
> and relatively safe place that I know very well.
Practice. Do you live on a relatively quiet street?
Practice turning.
-- riding a straight line.
-- stopping and putting down a foot at traffic stops.
-- riding a straight line starting from a dead stop.
If you notice a bicycle handling difficulty while riding
around, practice the skill in isolation.
In traffic stay out of the door lane, and ride a straight
line. Drivers feel assured when the bicycle goes straight.
They are less worried that the cyclist will do something
abrupt. Signal your intentions to drivers. In open
situations look at the driver or where his face is if it
is obscured. The driver will notice you are looking. By
open situation I mean where not everyone knows what the
others want to do, or who is to go first, etc. Most drivers
are people of good will. Smile sometimes.
Oh. And obey traffic laws. Waiting your turn is no hardship.
--
Michael Press
Michael Press
"(PeteCresswell)" <x...@y.Invalid> wrote:
> Per Jasper Janssen:
> >You might have at least skimmed it, even if you were too lazy to read,
> >which would have prevented you from inserting your foot quite that deep in
> >your mouth.
>
> That one flew right over my head. Anybody care to explain?
Our story so far ...
Gary Jackson initiated the thread saying that he plans to take
up bicycling for commuting and recreation. He gave height and
weight as 6'4", 400 pound, and that he had read some of what
Chalo had written about bicycles for people of his stature.
jim beam immediately responded by saying the Gary Jackson should
read what Chalo had written. Jasper Janssen gently brought to
jim beam's attention what Gary Jackson had read.
--
Michael Press
jim beam
"tldr" = acronym.
seemingly, some are too lazy to look it up.
Gary Jackson
I've sent mail and heard back from a few more bicycle manufacturers.
This is a summary:
Cactus10:
They told me that the BiGBOY would not hold a 180-200kg rider, but
that they were willing to work with me on a custom bike.
Utopia Velo:
There is no distributor in the United States. They say if an American
has a London model, then they probably picked it up while in Germany.
I guess I wasn't too far off the mark with the quip about Oktoberfest.
Dutch Bikes Seattle:
They forwarded my message to the manufacturer, who also indicated that
the Kruisframe and Transport models are my best options. They also
told me that they would be coming out with a Kruisframe model with the
front rack from the Transport as well, which seems pretty cool.
Co-Motion:
They told me that building a taller bike comes at no extra cost. So,
you'd get a custom sized frame for about the same as the Utopia Velo
London or the Schauff Sumo.
I'm still waiting to hear back from the following manufacturers:
Worksman -- I asked about maximum rider weight for their bikes.
Lightfoot Cycles -- I asked about whether they could build a version
of the Custom Ranger XL that supports ~400lbs.
Surly -- I asked about the Long Haul Trucker. The fact that they
haven't gotten back to me disappoints me the most, since their bike is
very reasonably priced.
Rivendell -- I asked about a model with a double top tube. This seems
sort of silly, though, now that I know the history of the Co-Motion
Mazama.
Schauff -- I asked about getting the Sumo in the United States.
--
Gary
Chalo
before now, because I have been, well, doing other things.
Gary Jackson wrote:
>
> I've sent mail and heard back from a few more bicycle manufacturers.
> This is a summary:
>
> Cactus10:
>
> They told me that the BiGBOY would not hold a 180-200kg rider, but
> that they were willing to work with me on a custom bike.
That's a manufacturer I was previously unacquainted with. Thanks for
the tip.
> Surly -- I asked about the Long Haul Trucker. The fact that they
> haven't gotten back to me disappoints me the most, since their bike is
> very reasonably priced.
I have ridden lighter-duty frames than the Long Haul Trucker without
any noteworthy problems. The stock wheels on the LHT aren't going to
cut it, and I would not use the specified crank-- but as for the
frameset, you have little to worry about. Front braking might have to
be limited to less-than-extravagant power so that the fork doesn't get
bent by the load.
For my single-speed bikes, I use two old 68cm lugged steel frames with
small diameter tubes, one straight-gauge and one butted. Neither one
seems remotely up to the task of accommodating vigorous riding under a
350-pounder, but they've both done just fine. One of them served as a
platform for my first electric-assist bike, and in that role it
carried a gross weight of about 500 pounds at respectable speeds over
some of the worst pavement in the western world (in the Port of
Seattle area). The wheels are all 48-spoke; the cranks are Primo
Powerbite freestyle cranks. I coddle the forks of these two bikes by
using a caliper brake on one and no front brake on the other.
My point in bringing this up is that if you beef up the parts that
really need it (wheels, cranks, stem, bars, seat and seatpost), the
rest of the bike will probably be OK. Stay away from lightweight or
gimmicky frames, or frames that use cantilevered structures (boom
frames, "feet forward" frames, ladies' frames, elevated chainstay
frames, etc.), and you should be able to work with whatever you
find.
> Rivendell -- I asked about a model with a double top tube. This seems
> sort of silly, though, now that I know the history of the Co-Motion
> Mazama.
That's an idea worth considering-- reinforcement is reinforcement,
after all-- but a regular diamond frame can clearly cut the mustard if
it is simple and substantial. Rivendell is hesitant to use larger
tubing diameters for stylistic reasons, and that works against us big
guys. An extra frame tube in there wouldn't hurt a bit.
I'm sure you are already aware that a custom Rivendell frame costs
serious money.
To address some other issues you brought up:
In my experience, using 48 spokes allows me to have trouble-free
dished wheels (front disc or derailleur rear) where their 36-spoke
counterparts wouldn't hold up. Using high spoke count wheels is no
longer as neat and tidy a decision as it used to be, though. The most
robust of today's 26" and 700c rims just don't come in 40 or 48 hole
versions. If I had to choose between running 48 spokes on an 8/9-
speed tandem rear cassette hub laced to a 700c Sun CR18, Alex DM18,
Velocity Dyad, etc. or running 36 spokes on a dishless 7/8/14-speed
gearhub with a Kris Holm mountain unicycle rim, I'd go for the
dishless wheel with the badass rim every time.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=805
Especially in 26" MTB-sized wheels, it's difficult to find 48-hole
rims anymore that can compare to the most rugged rims available in 32
and 36 hole versions. It might be worth consulting with these folks
and seeing what they recommend:
As for cargo bikes, they are not as troublesome as you suggest.
Bakfietsen are a bit strange due to their linkage steering and lightly-
weighted front wheels. With a front-loader, essentially all rider
weight is borne by the rear wheel. That's not ideal, but it can be
taken into account.
Longtails ride very nicely, are not tippy unless you carry a top-heavy
or imbalanced load, and have the distinct advantage of distributing
the rider's weight evenly between the two wheels. I would happily use
a one-piece longtail frame like the Yuba Mundo, Kona Ute, or Surly Big
Dummy. I would not ride an Xtracycle-equipped frame due to the
dropout/subframe separation issues I have seen on some of them when
they are heavily loaded.
The Yuba Mundo and Kona Ute would definitely require custom seatposts
due to their one-size geometry. The Big Dummy comes in sizes up to
22". I'd use a Thomson seatpost with that one.
The Nashbar 853 frame you mentioned is lightweight and not suitable
for riders as big as we are.
Getting a garage-sale MTB, especially one with a rigid fork, would be
an easy way to get in the game for cheap. To eke a little more
longevity out of the wheels, you could take them to a local shop to
have their spoke tension raised to at least 100 kgf. It won't make
them reliable in the long term, but it will keep the spokes from going
loose immediately. Older MTBs often have sturdy components that make
them more plausible in your application than a more up-to-date bike
would be.
If your starter bike has a freewheel rear hub, you'll probably bend or
break the axle. This is usually a "ride home" type of failure, often
discovered at a later time. Among commonly available equipment, a
cassette hub is better-- but you are likely to bust up the ratchet in
the cassette body instead of the hub axle. The repair job is almost
the same in either case.
Recent experiences with cassette hubs have convinced me that no
cassette hub, not even the Gusset Jury or similar Woodman Bill
Extreme, is likely to have a cassette body that can handle the stress
of a superheavy rider with low gearing. A face ratchet like the one
in a Chris King hub might hold up better, but that hub is light enough
to give me very little confidence in it.
http://www.woodmancomponents.com/catalog/categorie.php?cat=hub&lang=en&art=hub7
Depending on the terrain you have to deal with, single-speed gearing
might be a good choice for you. Single-speed freewheel hubs with
135mm MTB spacing make the strongest rear wheels around, all else
equal. SS freewheels and chains are incredibly inexpensive, and they
last a lot longer than multi-speed stuff.
Chalo
Ryan Cousineau
<46d190bd-3331-48ba...@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
Chalo <chalo....@gmail.com> wrote:
> I regret that I haven't been able to participate in this discussion
> before now, because I have been, well, doing other things.
>
> Gary Jackson wrote:
[Gary needs a big bike]
> Recent experiences with cassette hubs have convinced me that no
> cassette hub, not even the Gusset Jury or similar Woodman Bill
> Extreme, is likely to have a cassette body that can handle the stress
> of a superheavy rider with low gearing. A face ratchet like the one
> in a Chris King hub might hold up better, but that hub is light enough
> to give me very little confidence in it.
>
> http://www.woodmancomponents.com/catalog/categorie.php?cat=hub&lang=en&art=hub
> 7
>
> Depending on the terrain you have to deal with, single-speed gearing
> might be a good choice for you. Single-speed freewheel hubs with
> 135mm MTB spacing make the strongest rear wheels around, all else
> equal. SS freewheels and chains are incredibly inexpensive, and they
> last a lot longer than multi-speed stuff.
>
> Chalo
I have no personal stake in Clydesdale bicycles, but I know you've used
several gearhubs. Aside from your Rohloff being reliable and you
breaking your SRAM once, have you tried any variant of the Shimano
Nexus-8 hubs?
Also, what was the final result with your SRAM-o that went bust-o?
--
Ryan Cousineau rcou...@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them."
Chalo
>
> I have no personal stake in Clydesdale bicycles, but I know you've used
> several gearhubs. Aside from your Rohloff being reliable and you
> breaking your SRAM once, have you tried any variant of the Shimano
> Nexus-8 hubs?
Nexus 8, no. Nexus 7-- I have a couple of those to this day. I was
afraid for them, so I only ever used them as 20" wheels to mitigate
gearbox torque. So far, the only problem I've had with them myself is
stripping the axle nuts on installation. I know of other folks who
have defeated the flatted washers or even bungled the planetary gears,
but not me (yet).
> Also, what was the final result with your SRAM-o that went bust-o?
I sheared off the sliding keys. Fixing it should be a reasonable
procedure, but I haven't yet undertaken the job.
The previous problem I had with the SRAM hub was tearing out the flats
in its anti-rotation washers. I made a special washer to prevent that
from recurring.
Chalo
Gary Jackson
On Jun 11, 5:16 pm, Gary Jackson <bar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Worksman -- I asked about maximum rider weight for their bikes.
They didn't give me a maximum rider weight, but they recommended the
large Coney Island Cruiser (2 straight top tubes) with Kevlar tires,
puncture proof tubes, and the three speed hub.
> Schauff -- I asked about getting the Sumo in the United States.
More honesty from bike makers: they told me that they would not export
to the United States because of liability concerns. Trial lawyers, is
there anything you won't ruin with your greedy, well-manicured
fingers?
I'm going to the LBS on Friday with my research and the accumulated
wisdom from this and other threads. We'll see how that goes.
--
Gary
Chalo
>
> > Worksman -- I asked about maximum rider weight for their bikes.
>
> They didn't give me a maximum rider weight, but they recommended the
> large Coney Island Cruiser (2 straight top tubes) with Kevlar tires,
> puncture proof tubes, and the three speed hub.
Worksman bikes and trikes are rugged, almost to the exclusion of all
other beneficial qualities. One nice thing that makes them pretty
easy to upgrade for even more robustness is the use of old American
standard interfaces-- a one-piece crank shell and 110mm rear spacing.
The strongest and most reliable cranks in the world are made for that
kind of shell, and thick-axle 48-spoke BMX rear hubs are common in
110mm spacing. The 26" wheel size is optimum for a combination of
high strength, outstanding parts availability, good ride quality, and
low rolling resistance. Worksman bikes run almost as well when poorly
maintained and in lousy condition as they do when they are perfectly
tuned, so they are an appropriate choice for people who can't or won't
do preventive maintenance on their bikes.
Downsides of Worksman bikes include flexible frames, considerable
weight, sluggish handling, very limited sizes, and an inconveniently
small seatpost diameter (necessitating a solid rod of very strong
steel for a tall and heavy rider). It's not convenient to retrofit
the Worksman's 110mm rear-opening dropouts with more than 3 speeds.
The stock wheels and other parts are crude-- more needlessly heavy
than strong. And the cost of these bikes is substantially higher than
that of similar quality cycles from other manufacturers.
Thick tires and tubes exact a toll on ride quailty without increasing
load-carrying capacity versus more sophisticated items. A quality
tire like the Schwalbe Big Apple 26 x 2.35" fitted with a normal
weight tube will provide a faster and more satisfactory ride than the
heavy-duty stock items from Worksman, without diminishing the bike's
ability to support a heavy load.
> > Schauff -- I asked about getting the Sumo in the United States.
>
> More honesty from bike makers: they told me that they would not export
> to the United States because of liability concerns. Trial lawyers, is
> there anything you won't ruin with your greedy, well-manicured
> fingers?
Many folks who have been expensively injured or disabled in product
failures might be less eager to sue for compensation if there were a
good public health and welfare system in the US, like there is in most
European countries. It's probably not a coincidence that product
liability is so much more of a burden to manufacturers serving the US
market.
Chalo
Gary Jackson
> Gary Jackson wrote:
>
> > > Worksman -- I asked about maximum rider weight for their bikes.
>
> > They didn't give me a maximum rider weight, but they recommended the
> > large Coney Island Cruiser (2 straight top tubes) with Kevlar tires,
> > puncture proof tubes, and the three speed hub.
>
> Worksman bikes and trikes are rugged, almost to the exclusion of all
> other beneficial qualities.
Yeah, they seem about as subtle as a Buick.
> And the cost of these bikes is substantially higher than
> that of similar quality cycles from other manufacturers.
Hm, their prices seem pretty reasonable, as long as you don't buy a
bunch of upgrades from them.
> > More honesty from bike makers: they told me that they would not export
> > to the United States because of liability concerns. Trial lawyers, is
> > there anything you won't ruin with your greedy, well-manicured
> > fingers?
>
> Many folks who have been expensively injured or disabled in product
> failures might be less eager to sue for compensation if there were a
> good public health and welfare system in the US, like there is in most
> European countries. It's probably not a coincidence that product
> liability is so much more of a burden to manufacturers serving the US
> market.
Whoa. How did we get from a flippant comment about trial lawyers and
their well-manicured fingers to socialized health care?
--
Gary
Jasper Janssen
wrote:
>Our story so far ...
>Gary Jackson initiated the thread saying that he plans to take
>up bicycling for commuting and recreation. He gave height and
>weight as 6'4", 400 pound, and that he had read some of what
>Chalo had written about bicycles for people of his stature.
>jim beam immediately responded by saying the Gary Jackson should
>read what Chalo had written.
Including the acronym "tl;dr" ('Too long; didn't read'), or my personal
expansion "Was too lazy to read, although I still have an opinion -- but I
care so little about what I'm responding too that I'm not even going to
spell out that I didn't read it.".
Jasper