Does anybody know whether these freewheels or some reasonable
substitutes are going to return to market anytime soon? I have a lot
of 7-speed freewheel equipped bikes whose wheels are just fine the way
they are, and freehub bodies have a poor life expectancy in my
custody. I'd rather not revert from 11-34 to 14-28 gearing just to
keep my bikes operational.
Chalo
I'd also be interested - a group of us are building up a bike from
donated parts and (as all we have is an MTB chainset with a 42T big
ring) a top gear of 78" is a bit limiting for the descents.
In the future, when you find a product that suits your need, keep a
weather eye on the market, and stock up at the first sign of trouble for
what you like.
I have years worth of spare BioPace chainrings, UniGlide cogs, tires and
other "Designed for my needs" items that were once available.
- -
Compliments of:
"Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"
If you want to E-mail me use:
ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net
My website:
http://geocities.com/czcorner
http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=4422
http://www.raleigh.co.uk/p_details.aspx?id=2520
Between 'freehub' and 'latest-techno-racer-wanna-be' lies a whole galaxy.
Lou
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html
Doesn't Harris still stock 11-28?
14-34 7spd Megarange Shimano HG-40 freewheels seem to be readily
available.
Nashbar lists its house brand 7 speed freewheel with 13-32. Not
11-34, but pretty close on the low end and the high end doesn't matter
anyway. Unless you're sprinting downhill with a tailwind. IRD also
makes a 13-32 7 speed freewheel.
Nashbar lists a 13-32. IRD also lists a 13-32.
-----------------
Not exactly. 90 rpm in a 50x13 is 28 mph, in a 50x11 is 33 mph. Big
difference. Lots of use for downhills, especially on a cargo bike.
I don't use freehubs. Only one of my bikes is so equipped, and it is
out of service with-- you guessed it-- a crunched-up freehub body.
Freehub ratchet pawls necessarily act through a smaller radius than
those of a freewheel, which places them under higher stress. For me,
they break. That one last freehub is a 48 hole unit presumably for
tandem use, and I always used it with a single ring between 36t and
45t, but I still bungled it on a short, steep climb.
Cassettes cost more than freewheels even though they represent a
subset of the parts in a freewheel. That's not a good deal, in my
opinion. The last time I was in the market for a cassette, it seemed
that the price doubled for each additional sprocket in the cluster
(which is a chump beatdown to be discussed at another time).
> In the future, when you find a product that suits your need, keep a
> weather eye on the market, and stock up at the first sign of trouble for
> what you like.
>
> I have years worth of spare BioPace chainrings, UniGlide cogs, tires and
> other "Designed for my needs" items that were once available.
I seem to never learn this lesson. I should have stocked up on 11-34
freewheels, 26" Avocet slicks, Sun Rhyno rims, Gusset Jury hubs,
DiaTech freehub bodies, Pro-Stop disc brake pads, Snafu Ultimate
Levers and other 1" brake levers, Revcore Flagpole seatposts,
Bontrager forks, LH/RH threaded hubs, and who knows how many other
useful goodies that have become historical relics. But I always
assume I can buy them any old time until after it's too late.
Chalo
Breaking freehub ratchets is a bummer - shimano hubs aren't up to tandem MTB
use for us. We shall see if the CK one copes.
But I'd not touch a freewheel for the same reason - the torque we put into
it which breaks the pawls would also tighten a freewheel on rather too hard.
> Cassettes cost more than freewheels even though they represent a
> subset of the parts in a freewheel. That's not a good deal, in my
> opinion. The last time I was in the market for a cassette, it seemed
> that the price doubled for each additional sprocket in the cluster
> (which is a chump beatdown to be discussed at another time).
I just checked one bike shop here : HG50 shimano cassette, 7sp 18 quid, 8sp
18 quid, 9sp 22 quid.
cheers,
clive
I remember that they ran out of them about a year and a half ago and
had no ETA. Their site doesn't even mention them now.
You keep telling yourself that.
> Nashbar lists its house brand 7 speed freewheel with 13-32. Not
> 11-34, but pretty close on the low end and the high end doesn't matter
> anyway. Unless you're sprinting downhill with a tailwind.
We have that exact problem. On a cycling forum we're building a
communal bike from donated parts (it looks better than you might
expect). We had to buy a new freewheel and chain to avoid problems with
it kicking, but the only cheap Hyperglide freewheel we could get is
14-28. The trouble is, we were given a 42-32-22 crankset. Bottom gear
20" (great), top gear 78", which spins out pretty fast downhill.
That at least is a welcome development, if it turns out that I have to
switch anything over to a cassette system.
When Shimano 11-34 freewheels were available to me, I paid a similar
number of bucks for them. I understand that quid are bigger. ;^)
Chalo
> When Shimano 11-34 freewheels were available to me, I paid a similar
> number of bucks for them. I understand that quid are bigger. ;^)
Downside of living in a socialist paradise :-)
cheers,
clive
Most of my bikes have single rings. This is partly because I use BMX
cranks and partly because front derailleurs rank just above chopsticks
in terms of their elegance and effectiveness at shifting chains. If I
assume gearing that gives me a 30" low, then the difference between a
13-32 and an 11-34 is the difference between a 74" top gear and a 93"
top gear. In practice, I can probably make do without a gear in the
80-90" range, but it's still a nice thing to have for running
unladen.
On the other hand, a 13-32 freewheel will feature more uniform steps
between gears instead of a huge jump to the low gear like the Shimano
Mega 7 does. I'd rather have the extra range, but that's not a bad
consolation prize.
Chalo
Dear Russell,
I've been plodding along for years with a 53x11.
On the flats up and down the river, I do ~50-65 rpm and 20~25 mph.
On my two-mile downhill, I do 30~50 mph, depending on the wind,
coasting a good deal.
I suppose that I could shift to a lower gear and a higher cadence, but
I'm happy with the 53x11. It's a little like Jobst mashing up climbs
in higher gears than most people use.
I was delighted when I changed from 52x12 to 53x11. Whether it made
any real difference or not, the 53x11 made my downhill _seem_ much
more fun because I wasn't wishing that I could reach for a higher
gear. The point at which I stopped pedaling moved quite a ways down
the hill.
I gather that there's some doubt about whether a higher cadence and a
lower gear (in the range in question) actually produces different
results. Most riders who haven't been told that 90 rpm is de rigeur
settle down to around 60~70 rpm on long rides, but most racers use
higher cadences.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel