So, does anyone have any ideas as to how I could keep this thing from
loosening back out?
Red Locktite. Sounds like you have a lot of wear on those threads.
there should be a thin ring between the lockring and the cog; are you
using the correct tool to tighten the lockring ?
Well, it's actually fairly new. I've tried to get it tight with both a
steel punch and hammer as well as a pin spanner. I may have to go the
locktite route. Now I just need to get some chainwhips to take that
small cog off.
It's usually good for a couple rides and then back to thumping.
Have that cassette looked at by a good bike shop. Something is wrong,
like a mismatch between the cassette and the freehub body. I've never
seen this happen on a cassette.
Sounds like the OP has a freewheel, not a freehub. At least, he calls
it a freewheel and talks about using a hammer & punch and a pin
spanner to retighten it.
Yes, it is definitely a freewheel. The lockring I'm talking about is
the one just on the inside of the smallest sprocket that holds all the
freewheel's innards inside. It's left-hand threaded.
I have to admit that it's a wal-mart Mongoose. I actually originally
got it 4 years ago when I knew nothing of bikes. A couple weeks ago I
noticed a crack in the frame and called up Pacific. They looked a
pictures I sent them and they decided to just replace the bike with
the newest version of my model.
Now that I know more, I would much rather have a nicer LBS Schwinn or
Giant. However, I'm not going to complain about a free brand new bike
especially since I know better how to take care of it.
no. never use a hammer to smash a part in or out; you are damaging
your components. use the right tool. go to a bikeshop get a lockring
tool; preferably the park one which has a guide pin; and a chainwhip.
a modest investment in the right tool which you keep and can reuse in
the future, is the way to go
Throw away the Freewheel and buy another. They're cheap enough.
I'll try calling Pacific first to see what they can do for me. I've
only had this replacement for a few weeks. I may take a trip down to
the LBS to see if I can get some chainwhips to fix it if Pacific won't
do anything. I'll replace the freewheel with a nicer one as a last
resort. More tools are never a bad thing to have around *grin*
Hey, I didn't realize that the replacement was new.
But there is also this:
for $18 plus postage that's hard to beat.
You'd also need the tool:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=2664&subcategory=9999
for an additional $10
But free is much better than paying.
For some reason it put the cassette instead of the 7-speed freewheel. But
Nashbar has a 13-32 which I would assume you'd want.
Yeah, I had kinda thought of upgrading the freewheel anyhow. I
definitely will if Pacific won't help me out or I can't get this one
fixed. I figure a freewheel is <$20 for a good one so it'll be worth
it if I can't get it fixed for free. I think the one on there now is a
13-28 but I wouldn't mind the larger lower cog.
By the way, as far as freewheels go, who all makes good 7-speed
freewheels? I know Sheldon talked about Shimano freewheels quite a bit
on his website.
> "Tom Kunich" <cyclintom@yahoo. com> wrote:
>> Red Locktite. Sounds like you have a lot of wear on those threads.
BassManNate wrote:
> Well, it's actually fairly new. I've tried to get it tight with both a
> steel punch and hammer as well as a pin spanner. I may have to go the
> locktite route. Now I just need to get some chainwhips to take that
> small cog off.
> It's usually good for a couple rides and then back to thumping.
New? Return it. That is beyond acceptable freewheel foibles
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
>> "Tom Kunich" <cyclintom@yahoo. com> wrote:
>>> Red Locktite. Sounds like you have a lot of wear on those threads.
> BassManNate <nathanield.reyno...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Well, it's actually fairly new. I've tried to get it tight with both a
>> steel punch and hammer as well as a pin spanner. I may have to go the
>> locktite route. Now I just need to get some chainwhips to take that
>> small cog off.
>> It's usually good for a couple rides and then back to thumping.- Hide quoted text -
bfd wrote:
> I would use BLUE loctite instead of red. Red is more permanent and can
> result in a harder time when you want to remove the lockring. Good
> Luck!
No reason to plan on opening it again, but it should not have come loose
the first time.
>> "Tom Kunich" <cyclintom@yahoo. com> wrote:
>>> Red Locktite. Sounds like you have a lot of wear on those threads.
> BassManNate <nathanield.reyno...@gmail.com> wrote
>> Well, it's actually fairly new. I've tried to get it tight with both a
>> steel punch and hammer as well as a pin spanner. I may have to go the
>> locktite route. Now I just need to get some chainwhips to take that
>> small cog off.
>> It's usually good for a couple rides and then back to thumping.- Hide quoted text -
raa...@gmail.com wrote:
> no. never use a hammer to smash a part in or out; you are damaging
> your components. use the right tool. go to a bikeshop get a lockring
> tool; preferably the park one which has a guide pin; and a chainwhip.
> a modest investment in the right tool which you keep and can reuse in
> the future, is the way to go
This is not a cassette, it's freewheel. With a defective cover plate.
The right tool is a pin punch and a hammer used with a vise mounted
freewheel body holder, or done /in situ/ on the hub.
The right answer is 'exchange for a new freewheel'; this one is defective.
>> "Tom Kunich" <cyclintom@yahoo. com> wrote:
>>> Red Locktite. Sounds like you have a lot of wear on those threads.
> BassManNate <nathaniel...@gmail.com> writes:
>> Well, it's actually fairly new. I've tried to get it tight with both
>> a steel punch and hammer as well as a pin spanner. I may have to go
>> the locktite route. Now I just need to get some chainwhips to take
>> that small cog off.
>> It's usually good for a couple rides and then back to thumping.
Tim McNamara wrote:
> Have that cassette looked at by a good bike shop. Something is wrong,
> like a mismatch between the cassette and the freehub body. I've never
> seen this happen on a cassette.
Right. Note OP's comment "13 teeth and has to be removed to completely
take the ring out". It is a freewheel, not cassette
Don't be shy with that hammer. The cover plate needs to be _tight_ after
you have set the bearing clearance with the shims under your plate.
Shimano makes good freewheels, readily available and cheap. I would
tend to go with one of those. There are spendier freewheels and there
are cheaper freewheels.
As I understand it, the very first Shimano bicycle product was a single
speed freewheel.
Well, I just got off the phone with the nice lady at Pacific. She is
sending me something and I'm not 100% sure what. She said she was
sending me a new one and I mentioned that I don't have a tool to
remove the old freewheel. She said that she's sending me a new one and
that I shouldn't need a tool to remove the old one. Not sure if that
means that she's sending me a freewheel with a freewheel tool or if
she's just sending me a whole new rear wheel assembly. I guess I'll
find out.
Well, I got it today. It's just the freewheel. So, I called Pacific
back and explained that I don't have a freewheel tool and that I
didn't feel that I should have to spend money on something that came
from them broken. The lady then explained that they sent the freewheel
and had ordered me a rear wheel which is on back order. When the wheel
gets in I can just screw on the freewheel which is why she said that I
wouldn't need a freewheel tool two days ago.
Does anyone else think that it's weird that they didn't just wait for
the whole mess to come in and send it all in one box?