Parts for Dynacraft bicycle
Andy
It's the Next model.
Does anyone sell replacements shocks for it ?
Thanks.
Chalo
Those are disposable bicycle shaped objects sold in department
stores. That's not a shock absorber and it never was.
Ask your department store or the manufacturer if they can help you.
Then resolve to buy a real bike next time around.
Chalo
DougC
Well come on now, this is a /tech/ newsgroup.
You are not incorrect, but you should attempt to explain /why/ it's a
poor choice.
-------------
Now then.
It is true that the Dynacraft bicycles appear to be basically Wal-Mart
bikes. Better models may be available elsewhere, but Wal-Mart's site
does show them to have carried at least one "Next" model with an
in-frame shock.
The problem with trying to maintain generic bicycles like this (that is,
those with rear suspension built-in to the frame) is that bicycle shocks
are evolving over time. The original ones were only about 100mm between
the eyelets (the two mounting holes on the ends) and had only 10-20mm of
compression. Bicycle shocks have gotten longer and longer over time--the
better downhill bikes use shocks that are now up around 400mm between
eyelets, and there's a few custom-built models with shocks that are 450+
mm long.
The name-brand companies like Rock Shox (probably the cheapest
name-brand out there now) used to make 100mm shocks but they stopped
years ago as the demand for them fell.
So the consequence of this is that even if you had a bike that was a
really expensive model when it came out 15+ years ago, you still may not
be able to find a replacement frame shock for it now.
(-and if you by a "good" suspended bike now, you likely will not be able
to find a replacement shock for it 15 years from now, either. I have
long contended on the motorized-bicycle sites that if you are building a
custom frame from scratch and want suspension, you are better off
designing your frame to use the generic 12-inch-long minibike shocks--as
they have not changed dimensions in the past 50+ years. The spring rates
aren't ideal, but the un-damped one costs only about $30 and an
oil-damped variant is $40 each)
As the name-brand shock companies stopped producing the shorter shocks,
the Taiwanese and Chinese factories moved into that segment and began
making cheap suspended MTB frames such as what you now see at department
stores. They don't maintain any retail outlets though, so this leaves
you kind of stuck if you need to replace one of these things.
Wal-mart will tell you to take it to a real bike shop; product support
is not part of their retailing plan.
A real bike shop will either--
...charge you a lot for finding a shock that will fit, or-
...just tell you they can't get one, because there isn't one in their
supplier catalogs, and they don't want the bother of the extra effort
involved because they don't think you'd want to pay for the time it
would really take them to do.
If you need replacement shocks for any of the cheaper generic MTB
frames, you will probably have the most luck looking for them on eBay.
If you pay more than $25 or so you're paying too much; these things are
dirt cheap.
You will need to know the length (the distance between the two mounting
eyelets with the shock uncompressed).
Here is one that is six inches (150mm) between eyelets, and is priced at
$12 (twelve US dollars each)
If you POSITIVELY LOVE this bike then buy several shocks now--when you
can find them--because 1-2 years on they may no longer be available at
all, from anywhere.
DougC
>
> You will need to know the length (the distance between the two mounting
> eyelets with the shock uncompressed).
>
> Here is one that is six inches (150mm) between eyelets, and is priced at
> $12 (twelve US dollars each)
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-BLACK-750LBS-BICYCLE-MOTORCYCLE-SEAT-SHOCK-PART-703-/230614917884?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b1b862fc
>
>
>
>
> If you POSITIVELY LOVE this bike then buy several shocks now--when you
> can find them--because 1-2 years on they may no longer be available at
> all, from anywhere.
>
I forgot to include in there: these shocks were never dimensionally
standardized--so they may have different eyelet widths, need different
diameters of mounting bolts and so on. Since there was no single
manufacturer there's nobody you can email to ask what those dimensions
were--so even after getting one with the proper length,,,, you still
might end up using some different bolts/spacers/washers to get the new
shock attached usefully.
Andy
> On 10/13/2011 5:39 AM, DougC wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > You will need to know the length (the distance between the two mounting
> > eyelets with the shock uncompressed).
>
> > Here is one that is six inches (150mm) between eyelets, and is priced at
> > $12 (twelve US dollars each)
>
>
> > If you POSITIVELY LOVE this bike then buy several shocks now--when you
> > can find them--because 1-2 years on they may no longer be available at
> > all, from anywhere.
>
> I forgot to include in there: these shocks were never dimensionally
> standardized--so they may have different eyelet widths, need different
> diameters of mounting bolts and so on. Since there was no single
> manufacturer there's nobody you can email to ask what those dimensions
> were--so even after getting one with the proper length,,,, you still
> might end up using some different bolts/spacers/washers to get the new
> shock attached usefully.
Thanks Doug.
Chalo offered to buy my bike for $150, so I may take his offer. :-)
Chalo
>
> Chalo offered to buy my bike for $150, so I may take his offer. :-)
bike thieves.
For what it's worth, Dynacraft might actually help you (though I
wouldn't bet on it). Huffy (a similar but unrelated brand) has been
quite obliging about furnishing inexpensive replacement parts for
their hideous abominations unto the Lord for as long as I can
remember.
Chalo
Andy
When I bought the bike, my funds were very limited.
Looking at the shock, it looks to be built into the fork.
Definitely looks like a "throwaway bike." :-)
When one of them goes out, I will just buy another better bike.
Andy
Dan O
you ought to be able to easily replace the front fork with something
rigid.
But yeah - don't let this stop you getting a better bike. On a
budget? (Who isn't.) http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites
Andy
Since Dynacraft has no parts or specs list, how would I go about
finding a replacement front fork ?
I have already had one boot come loose from one of the shocks. :-(
Andy
kolldata
funny thing, only seeum once.
kolldata
BY 2-3 USED ONES FOR SPARE PARTS
imagine ! how gross.
DougC
the shocks built into the forks are not separately replaceable. You
would need to buy new suspension forks, the old ones probably aren't
practical to repair unless you could fabricate parts yourself. (if they
are a name-brand fork you could email the manufacturer, but of they're
generic, you have no way to know who to ask about parts)
You need to know the steerer tube diameter of the bike you have, since
there's two different sizes.
If you want a decent brand of fork, then the cheapest now is Rock Shox.
Look for a current Dart-2 fork, or the plain Dart model from 2010.
Figure around $100-$130.
If you just want a cheap brand, then go on eBay and search for "bicycle
suspension forks". There's lots of new-generics for under $20. I'd
/strongly/ suggest against buying any of the used ones, no matter how
great a deal they seem to be.
DirtRoadie
straightforward.
Other relevant details to help keep it simple-
As has been described, you'll need to match up the steerer length and
diameter as well as the steerer/headset type.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#headset
You'll also want to be sure that your front brake can be used.
From the brief description I'm assuming that you do not have a road or
BMX style caliper brake.
Many older forks were not "disc" compatible and many newer ones have
no studs for "rim" brakes - cantilevers or V-brakes.
If you have (classic) cantilevers there would be a cable stop built
into the fork. You would probably need to add a separate cable if you
were to install a rigid fork.
Sheldon's site is bit behind on disc brake info but otherwise -
http://sheldonbrown.com/brakes/index.html
DR
Andy
Andy