Downtube shifter conversion
Major Debacle
on options for converting downtube shifters to something more accessible
for my setup. I brought my bike to the local shop to see what parts were
available and was told that my bike was "vintage" and my options were
limited.
I have a Trek 620 that was made in 83. It was sold as a touring bike and
I have since changed the pedals to flat, double sided ones and I changed
the handlebar from a drop to a flat (riser?) design and mounted new
brake levers on it. I use the bike mostly for local travel whenever I
can instead of using my gas vehicle.
The shifters are downtube friction type and I would like to get them up
higher, preferable right on the handlebar. I know that if I do this I
will have to use cable housing from approximately where the shifters are
now to wherever I end up mounting new ones. I was told at the bike shop
that I can use the current mounting clamp for the shifters to
accommodate a pair of cable stops. At this point I am faced with
choosing a style of shifters.
EBay is where I go looking. What type should I be looking for? Cheap is
a plus. I don't need the best available, just something that will work
as well as the stock Suntours that are on there now.
Thanks
pgr...@gmail.com
wrote:
Simplest solution is bar-ends, any type, running in friction mode
(that way pretty much any you can find on EBay will work).
I think Rivendell sells a convertor that lets you mount bar-ends on
the flats, if you want to get them up there.
Mounted in the traditional bar-end location is much better than you
have thou', giving stability while shifting, etc.
-pete
nork
recumbents to use them--they work great.
Major Debacle
> Paul's Thumbies plus Shimano bar end shifters. I converted one of my
> recumbents to use them--they work great.
I assume you are referring to two different types of shifters, Paul
Thumbies and Shimano bar end shifters, both of which you recommend.
Does the shift cable on the Shimano bar end shifters run through the
inside of the handlebar? If so, I would imagine that I would have to
drill out the handlebar to allow the cable to exit. How does that work?
Major Debacle
> Paul's Thumbies plus Shimano bar end shifters. I converted one of my
> recumbents to use them--they work great.
Oh, I see what this is!
Thumbies convert bar end shifters to handlebar mounted shifters.
JG
shifters which can be had for $10 as Velo Orange (on-lline). There is
a standard fitting that fastens over the square down tube shifter boss
which forms a housing stop. The housing would continue through the
air to the bar mounted thumb shifter.
Bar end shifters would not work all that well on flat bars, although
they are another option. The housing is designed to go outside the
bar, but under the bar tape...
JG
landotter
wrote:
got ten bucks?
Mike Jacoubowsky
"Major Debacle" <Major_Debacle@the_Pentagon.mil> wrote in message
news:lishk.7124$vn7....@flpi147.ffdc.sbc.com...
Have you changed derailleurs and the rear wheel already? The 620 came with
non-index-compatible Suntour derailleurs, and, if I'm remembering correctly,
a Helicomatic rear hub, also not compatible with index shifting. Those
items, if still present on your bike, may be the reason the shop said you
had limited options for upgrading. The option of going really cheap (by just
replacing the shift levers) may not be available.
It is a very nice frame though, especially in sizes 22.5" and smaller
(larger sizes tended to be a bit flexy). Spending a bit of money on it might
be worthwhile.
--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
Major Debacle
Would friction thumb shifters work? Like the Falcon Friction Thumb
Shifters? $12 bucks delivered seems to good to pass up.
Tom Kunich
As pgrey pointed out you can get the bar end mounts from Rivendell and then
move your own levers to the bar ends. You'll also need the cable stops that
screw onto the downtube shift bosses, outer cables which you can run inside,
outside or half and half, as well as inner cables. If you run the outside
cable "inside" (under the bar tape all the way) the rear shift cable will
have to be one that is exceptionally long, perhaps even a tandem shift
cable. Though the new Campy shift cables are usually long enough.
Tom Kunich
that you'd changed from a perfectly acceptable drop bar to a scungy flat
bar.
"Tom Kunich" <cyclintom@yahoo. com> wrote in message
news:IvidnYs8wYKUGxvV...@earthlink.com...
Mark
[...]
> The shifters are downtube friction type and I would like to get them up
> higher, preferable right on the handlebar. [...]
>
> EBay is where I go looking. What type should I be looking for? Cheap is
> a plus. I don't need the best available, just something that will work
> as well as the stock Suntours that are on there now.
Here are a few:
"Stem shifters" - mount on stem. Common as dirt in the '70s, though for
some reason we looked down on them. If you reef on 'em the wrong way,
they /can/ negatively affect steering.
Ebay items #130240511176, 160262377262, 190238582700
Thumb shifters are more common (and probably more sensible) on flat bars:
Ebay items #140249440084, 150271572349
No need for the shifters to be SunTour, either, just so long as they are
friction and not indexed, but they made good stuff of the vintage you need.
For the record, none of these Ebay listings are mine.
Mark J.
Mark
> nork wrote:
>> Paul's Thumbies plus Shimano bar end shifters. I converted one of my
>> recumbents to use them--they work great.
>
> I assume you are referring to two different types of shifters, Paul
> Thumbies and Shimano bar end shifters, both of which you recommend.
>
> Does the shift cable on the Shimano bar end shifters run through the
> inside of the handlebar?
No, they run along the outside of the bar, under bar tape.
If so, I would imagine that I would have to
> drill out the handlebar to allow the cable to exit. How does that work?
Badly. In the day, some folks though inside-bar cables would be cool,
drilled their bars and kludged the bar-ends to fit. I've seen at least
one photo of bars that broke at the hole.
Good luck,
Mark J.
Major Debacle
Thanks mark,
For better or worse I bought the Falcon Friction Thumb Shifters, cables
included, for 12 bucks delivered: http://www.velo-orange.com/fafrthsh.html
and this item to help with mounting:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Downtube-Cable-Housing-Stop-Barcons-Shifters_W0QQitemZ310068572855QQihZ021QQcategoryZ36140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
landotter
wrote:
Doesn't that bike already have downtube shifter studs brazed on? If it
does, then ya need something like this instead:
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/FS1066
Most bike shops should have some in stock.
Major Debacle
No brazed studs on this frame. The shift levers are mounted on a bracket
that is clamped on to the down tube. I suppose that I could have used
the clamp-on bracket and attached some cable stops to it. That would
have been slightly less work, but the Shimano clamp-on cable stop has a
simpler look to it.
A Muzi
It's a quality frame but note an '83 is pre-index so any friction top
shifter ($9.95 each side) would be suitable. Don't obsess over brand for
this - in the halcyon pre-index format, all shifters work with all gear
systems. You'll need a dual casing stop at the downtube.
These are standard service parts at any competent LBS which commonly
services bicycles.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Major Debacle
I bought these for 12 bucks delivered, cables included:
http://www.velo-orange.com/fafrthsh.html
And this for $12.50 delivered:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=310068572855&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=021
What you refer to as a "dual casing stop" doesn't seem to have a widely
agreed upon name. The most prevalent appears to be "double cable stop".
My god, I just came across a post of yours dated 1970!
And it's dealing with the same issue!
http://www.trianglecycling.com/archive/index.php/t-20648.html
You are referring to the item that I bought on ebay... a "chromed
Shimano double cable stop" is what you called it. It even mentions the
need for cable adjusters, which I figured I would also need.
Can that date be correct?
landotter
wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> Doesn't that bike already have downtube shifter studs brazed on? If it
> > does, then ya need something like this instead:
>
> >http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/FS1066
>
> > Most bike shops should have some in stock.
>
> No brazed studs on this frame. The shift levers are mounted on a bracket
> that is clamped on to the down tube. I suppose that I could have used
> the clamp-on bracket and attached some cable stops to it. That would
> have been slightly less work, but the Shimano clamp-on cable stop has a
> simpler look to it.
You got the right part then, it'll look nice and clean. The Falcon
thumbies are clones of the 80s Shimano Deores. The clamps are a bit
crummy, but the levers are really handsome.
When you get a few bucks jingling in your bike parts pocket, you can
thrown a six speed hyperglide freewheel on the bike and a 6-8 spd
hyperglide chain on there as well for around $30 for both bits and
you'll be flabbergasted at the shifting improvement with the modern
profiles, even with friction levers.
Major Debacle
That's a door I've peaked into. I was reading up at the vintage Trek
site and came find that the 620 has the dreaded Maillard Helicomatic
rear hub. I am using Sheldon Brown's site to get an up to speed on
nomenclature and pictures of parts, but I am still fuzzy about what is
involved in installing a "six speed hyperglide freewheel". Would this
involved removing all the spokes and changing the hub? Does it replace
the Maillard Helicomatic hub? For 30 bucks, it seems like it might be
worth doing. Would the derailer have to be changed to accomodate a
hyperglide chain?
RS
a06a5b...@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, pgr...@gmail.com says...
just don't seem to be as smooth or work as well as bar ends where they were
meant to go.
RS
Major_Debacle@the_Pentagon.mil says...
brifters.
A Muzi
Well, in 1970 the only computer I was familiar with was on the other
side of a glass wall from the keyboard. I wasn't allowed near either!
Shimano has since discontinued their chromed stop.
A Muzi
Most probably a Helicomatic hub on that bike
Mike Jacoubowsky
| > non-index-compatible Suntour derailleurs, and, if I'm remembering correctly,
| > a Helicomatic rear hub, also not compatible with index shifting. Those
| > items, if still present on your bike, may be the reason the shop said you
| > had limited options for upgrading. The option of going really cheap (by just
| > replacing the shift levers) may not be available.
| >
| > It is a very nice frame though, especially in sizes 22.5" and smaller
| > (larger sizes tended to be a bit flexy). Spending a bit of money on it might
| > be worthwhile.
| >
| > --Mike Jacoubowsky
| > Chain Reaction Bicycles
| > www.ChainReaction.com
| > Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
|
| Would friction thumb shifters work? Like the Falcon Friction Thumb
| Shifters? $12 bucks delivered seems to good to pass up.
|
| http://www.velo-orange.com/fafrthsh.html
Friction shifters should work just fine. I'm not sure why I was reading that you wished to have "indexed" shifting in your post. My goof.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Major Debacle" <Major_Debacle@the_Pentagon.mil> wrote in message news:smvhk.8802$L_....@flpi150.ffdc.sbc.com...
Tom Sherman
> Of course unlike JG I didn't finish reading your entry and missed the
> fact that you'd changed from a perfectly acceptable drop bar to a scungy
> flat bar.
>
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"People who had no mercy will find none." - Anon.
Tom Sherman
> ...
> My god, I just came across a post of yours dated 1970!
>
> And it's dealing with the same issue!
>
> http://www.trianglecycling.com/archive/index.php/t-20648.html
>
> You are referring to the item that I bought on ebay... a "chromed
> Shimano double cable stop" is what you called it. It even mentions the
> need for cable adjusters, which I figured I would also need.
>
> Can that date be correct?
Yes, Andrew Muzi had the foresight on January 3, 1970 to know that he
would become the future owner of a bike shop that opened on April 1,
1971. Equally impressively, he knew about Shimano products that would
not be on the market for another 13 years. 9-speed Dura Ace was also
available in 1969. ;)
bigji...@gmail.com
those ugly cables from bar ends.
On Jul 22, 5:30 pm, Major Debacle <Major_Debacle@the_Pentagon.mil>
wrote:
landotter
D'oh. Frenchness. I guess the OP will eventually need to consult
Sheldon's wheelbuilding pages to rebuild that rear wheel on a proper
freewheel hub when the Helicomatic goes titsup. Such hubs are often
available for free for the rebuilding at LBS's "taco stands". ;-)
Mark
Those should do ya just fine. Enjoy!
Mark J.
Peter Cole
> For those who may have some time on their hands, I could use some advice
> on options for converting downtube shifters to something more accessible
> for my setup. I brought my bike to the local shop to see what parts were
> available and was told that my bike was "vintage" and my options were
> limited.
>
> I have a Trek 620 that was made in 83. It was sold as a touring bike and
> I have since changed the pedals to flat, double sided ones and I changed
> the handlebar from a drop to a flat (riser?) design and mounted new
> brake levers on it. I use the bike mostly for local travel whenever I
> can instead of using my gas vehicle.
>
> will have to use cable housing from approximately where the shifters are
> now to wherever I end up mounting new ones. I was told at the bike shop
> that I can use the current mounting clamp for the shifters to
> accommodate a pair of cable stops. At this point I am faced with
> choosing a style of shifters.
>
> a plus. I don't need the best available, just something that will work
> as well as the stock Suntours that are on there now.
>
What I've done on bikes with canti studs that I wanted to use flat bars
with is just buy a set of cheap MTB/ATB brifters and convert the brakes
to V-brakes. On (flat bar) bikes where I was happy with the
brakes/levers, I'd just add a twist shifter, only because trigger pods
are often integrated. I prefer to leave the friction DT shifter for the
chainrings -- good enough for Lance, good enough for me.
If your current rear is 5-6 sprocket, using MTB shifters may not work,
but a new 8-9 speed rear wheel might be a good investment anyway.
Usually keeping the old rear derailer isn't a problem, but new ones
aren't very expensive. I usually add a $20 MTB r. derailer so I can use
wide range (MTB 11-32/4) cassettes, just because I like them (and
they're cheap).
I've used clamp-on cable stops, both the cheesy stamped ones & the
pretty machined ones, but I've also just run housing all the way from
the shifter to the (rear) derailer and zip tied it to the frame. Works
if the derailer spring is stiff enough.
You can find MTB brifters for $20 a pair, individual (right) twist
shifters for $10, V-brakes for $20/pr. I've got lots of thumb shifters
from discarded bikes, and although they're fine after a little oiling,
new(er) stuff is so cheap I never use them. I've bought lots of stuff on
EBay, but had better luck grabbing the loss leaders at Nashbar. I'll buy
from the LBS, too. I don't mind paying the mark-up for the service and
convenience, but they often aren't too interested in franken-bikes, and
when they start up-selling or BS-ing, I depart.
Major Debacle
to the Falcon friction thumb shifters. Both the the shifters from Velo
Orange and the Shimano double cable stop bracket from ebay arrived today
and I swapped the old ones out.
What a difference! Having the shifters right at hand makes shifting *so*
much more convenient.