Sizing the ends bungee cord
jay
anyone
know the correct spelling of this word? I've Googled & Googled &
can't
find a spelling that give the definition I'm looking for.) the ends of
a
bungee cord?
I tried today by heating w/ a butane powered soldering torch. All I
got
was a slimy, stinky mess that never solidified. I would love to not
have
to put up w/ a bunch of white threads sticking out of the ends of the
hooks.
Thank you, JD
Andre Jute
JD, I can't help you with the spelling. I don't even know the word you
mean.
I tried fixing the ends of bungee cords with a butane heated blade
with a little more success on at least the thin ones but it was still
ugly. Later I wound copper wire around the uncut bungee cord, the cut
it with a new craft blade. That works. but the end is still visible.
Like you, such little details bother me.
I now use Widek bungees, which are flat and come with hooks that hide
cut ends.
On my Utopia Kranich
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/Andre%20Jute's%20Utopia%20Kranich.pdf
Just go straight to the last pic in the PDF, that's the best view.
On my Trek "Smover"
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20Trek%20Navigator%20L700%20Smover.html
Scroll down for a good pic of the back of the bike.
On my Gazelle Toulouse
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20Bauhaus.html
Widek straps, all
http://www.widek.nl/EN/products/straps/?cid=3&categorie_id=2
What I have
http://www.widek.nl/EN/products/straps/widek_straps/strap/?cid=3&categorie_id=2&sub_categorie_id=14&product_id=35
HTH.
Andre Jute
AMuzi
Bungee, bunji whatever. They used to be Sandow cords.
There are various jointing techniques but I think what you
want are adjustable end bunjis. Screwing up the end can get
you an eye injury.
see 'adjustable' models here:
http://htbbungeecords.bizland.com/store/jhookcords.html
another:
http://www.botachtactical.com/niknadbu.html
p.s. these sites prefer the spelling 'bungee'. 'bunji jump'
the other spelling. Who knows?
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
David Scheidt
:Does anyone know an effective way to size (For that mater, does
:anyone
:know the correct spelling of this word? I've Googled & Googled &
Wrong word. You want the word "seize". To seize shock cord, the
usual method is to form an eye, start seizing on the standing part,
and get the cut end in that. You want to rack the seizing, and you
also need to make surethe cord is compressed when you seize it,
because it'll shrink under tension. You don't want the seizing to
come undone when you load the cord. Or just a crimp, and ignore the
ends.
now that you've got the right word, you shouldbe able to find
insturctions.
--
sig 124
Joy Beeson
wrote:
> Does anyone know an effective way to size (For that mater, does
> anyone
> know the correct spelling of this word? I've Googled & Googled &
> can't
> find a spelling that give the definition I'm looking for.)
The word you are looking for is "seize". According to Wikipedia,
"whipping" is what's done to the end of a rope, and "seizing" is done
to connect two ropes, or two parts of one rope.
The description of "whipping" is exactly what I learned in the Mariner
Scouts as "seizing the end of a rope".
Just checked one of my bungee cords: it *is* seized, Wikipedia
definition, with a piece of wire. This turns the cut end to where
it's hidden inside the coil of the hook and makes the end thick so it
can't slip back through the hole where the bungee was slipped into the
coil. But the folded end sticks out and looks ugly, and you can see
the wire seizing too.
I mostly don't look at my bungees.
You might try dipping the end into paint, or tool-handle compound.
--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
Dan O
In a classic case of blowing off your question with a complete
sidetrack response, I recommend cotton shock cord with an adjustable
Mariner's Hitch loop at each end instead of a bouncy elastic bungee.
Length adjustment is virtually infinite, and tension consistent.
Peter Cole
Good tip, but I couldn't find insturctions any where. [sorry, couldn't
resist]
Frank Krygowski
If you're just interested in cosmetics, i.e. a pretty end on your
bungee cord, I'd consider using electrical heat shrink tubing. It's
very quick and easy to use.
(It's also good for keeping the cut end of a derailleur or brake cable
from unraveling. And it makes a good replacement aglet for a shoelace
you cut to shorten. Not to mention the electrical uses.)
Is this for some concours d'elegance competition for commuting
bikes? ;-)
- Frank Krygowski
Peter Cole
The right way is to cut with a hot knife, fold and fasten with a hog
ring. A good hook will accommodate the doubled over end:
http://www.sailrite.com/Shock-Cord-Hook-Plastic-3-16-5-16
See video.
I have a hot knife, but I've often cut synthetic line by taping first,
cold cutting in the middle of the tape, then fusing the end with a
lighter. Because the internal rubber filaments may not fuse well, you
may want to whip the end with a durable tape or something equivalent.
I've whipped line ends with wound thread for sailing rigging, never
tried it on shock cord, I just buy that by length and use the hooks. Not
that fussy, I guess.
kolldata
i KNOW, the elastic rope is a flipping SHOCK CORD.
try a frying pan. turn the heat up or down till you get results.
polypropylene core rope opr cpords does same. The outside and insides
melt at different temps, trick is getting the melt together for a
melted weld. Best way to approach this is get the melt more or less
together then smear the cord flat or taper with pressure. I step on
it.
TMetal coils are used for a non melt or with melt pressure end.
I forgot the name of a rope's end and can you believe it cannot google
to it right off. It has a specific name.
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexropecare.php
your info may be on utube. Jute has it with a hot knife, an expensive
pro tool with adjustable heat
(PeteCresswell)
>JD, I can't help you with the spelling. I don't even know the word you
>mean.
Seize.
I've always burned the stuff - but lightly. Still doesn't look
very nice, thought.
My guess would be some sort of goop that you dip it into.
--
PeteCresswell
Andre Jute
Thanks, Pete. Goop and compression, maybe. Too much bother. I just buy
the flat Widek ones with the hooks designed to hide the cut ends of
the elastic.
Andre Jute
The aesthetics of bungee cords...?
J. D. Slocomb
wrote:
>Does anyone know an effective way to size (For that mater, does
The word is "seizing" and if you google for "seizing bungee cord" I
think you'll have some hits.
(Technically "seizing" is the small stuff used to lash a rope, but is
commonly used as a verb. "mater" on the other hand is usually spelled
"matter" :-)
Cheers,
John D. Slocomb
(jdslocombatgmail)
Michael Press
<f26e3097-caca-471d...@l14g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
Dan O <danov...@gmail.com> wrote:
A hybrid works for me. Braided cotton cord doubled
and the ends secured to one another. Ring hitch to
the rack, loop over the load, around another bit of
rack, then a short bungee cord on the working end
of the cotton cord, and stretched to a convenient
strut on the rack. Fast. Might have to shorten the
working end of the cotton cord with a bowline, but
that is fast too.
I've fiddled with adjustable hitches, but there is
not a lot of room to work with so they are too
tedious for words.
Once the cotton cord is hauled taut, and bungeed,
it will not go slack. To be cautious, use a long
enough cotton cord to go over the load two or three
times. Try it; you'll like it.
--
Michael Press
Frank Krygowski
> In article
> <f26e3097-caca-471d-baf0-f8c6fe846...@l14g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
Agreed. I recall starting a brief motorcycle camping tour with a
friend, way back when I was in college. We were both broke, but I
sprung a few bucks for bungee cords to lash down my sleeping bag and
duffel bag of clothes on my motorcycle. He used rope to tie his bags
to his motorcycle.
We stopped twice in fifteen miles for him to re-tighten his ropes,
because his bags kept flopping loose to one side or another. Finally
he said "I'm guess I'm just doing this the hard way." He stopped at
the next opportunity to buy bungee cords. No further problems.
- Frank Krygowski
James
Obviously not a boy scout. A good truckies hitch will not come loose
and can tie down much tighter than elastic band straps.
JS.
Michael Press
James <james.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
My hybrid can be made as tight as necessary without
adjustable hitches.
I see truckies putting in hitches that are bad
for the cordage, breaking fibers. They are not to
be taken for authority simply because they do it
all the time.
How many know to put in a figure eight knot for
a stopper rather than the usual overhand hitch?
Who knows to put in a round turn with a twist tie
instead of the universal garrote?
--
Michael Press
Dieter Britz
I was beginning to wonder why no one uses a soldering iron, which is what
I use at home for cutting climbing rope. In the club, we have an electric
rope cutter, same principle. I'd guess a hot knife would cool off quickly.
As for stop knots, the only advantage of a figure-8 over an overhand is
that it's easier to get loose again. It holds just as well.
--
Dieter Britz (dieterhansbritz<at>gmail.com)
Peter Cole
Just to clarify, for those unfamiliar with the tool, a hot knife is an
electrically powered gadget, much like a soldering iron, just with a
knife blade rather than a point. Besides cutting line, they're handy for
cutting synthetic fabric since they fuse the edge as they cut,
eliminating raveling.
Zarniwoop
I made something like whipped ends (a rope of natural materials
technique) on elastic shock cord,
with a combination of hot melt glue, and electrical heat shrink
tubing.
+ Loop of shock cord in a side release buckle secured strap works well
as a snubber to keep the strap tight
and Zip-ties are useful in making loops..
jay
> Just go straight to the last pic in the PDF, that's the best view.
> Scroll down for a good pic of the back of the bike.
> On my Gazelle Toulousehttp://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20Bauhaus.html
>
> Widek straps, allhttp://www.widek.nl/EN/products/straps/?cid=3&categorie_id=2
>
> HTH.
>
> Andre Jute
That works. but the end is still visible.
>Like you, such little details bother me.
>Hello Andre
It's not just the ends per se that bother me, it's
the zillion individual strands bushed out
from the end that bothers me. I also realized
upon further thinking about, there are
practical reasons it bothers me. (I didn't
mention in the OP that I have a bulk roll
of 1/4” cord & “J” hooks that use doubled
over cord w/ hog rings double clamping
the cord together to hold the “J” hook.)
With the ends 'buzzhead' frayed, It's difficult
to inspect the hog rings for the security of
their clamping after hard usage.
Thank you for the advice, Your bikes are
interesting as an alternative to the ordinary, JD
jay
Hello Andrew
Thanks for the references. Yes I am interested in adjustable bungee
cords, but that wasn't my primary question. I have a bulk spool of
1/4” cord & have hog ring attachable “J” hookks. The very end of the
doubled over hog ring ends become quite frayed or busshie, somewhat
obscuring the the security of the hogrings. I'm looking for an EZ fix
to the end fraying.
And yes I quite agree w/ you that safety is very important w/ these
cords. I try to always remember to wear my glasses when stretching
bungees.
Do you sell the Bizland adjustable ends?
Thanks, JD
jay
Thank you for that, David. "Seize"
Actually that was one of the spellings I tried, all the definitions I
saw in the 1st few were referring to the meaning of grabbing forcibly.
I have found when searching the internet that when the first 3 or 4
items are not what I'm looking for, I'm usually wasting my time to go
on.
Thanks again JD
jay
> On Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:08:20 -0700 (PDT), jay <jdrew...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know an effective way to size (For that mater, does
> > anyone
> > know the correct spelling of this word? I've Googled & Googled &
> > can't
> > find a spelling that give the definition I'm looking for.)
>
> The word you are looking for is "seize". According to Wikipedia,
> "whipping" is what's done to the end of a rope, and "seizing" is done
> to connect two ropes, or two parts of one rope.
>
> The description of "whipping" is exactly what I learned in the Mariner
> Scouts as "seizing the end of a rope".
>
> Just checked one of my bungee cords: it *is* seized, Wikipedia
> definition, with a piece of wire. This turns the cut end to where
> it's hidden inside the coil of the hook and makes the end thick so it
> can't slip back through the hole where the bungee was slipped into the
> coil. But the folded end sticks out and looks ugly, and you can see
> the wire seizing too.
>
> I mostly don't look at my bungees.
>
> You might try dipping the end into paint, or tool-handle compound.
>
> --
> Joy Beeson
> The above message is a Usenet post.
> I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
Hello, Joy
That really clears up the confusion I've been having. In other words
the word ' seize' can mean to double over a cord onto it's self (as in
the way I attach the “J” hooks to the end of a bungee cord) or it can
mean the definition & also instructions for stopping a cord from
becoming frayed @ the very end. So it applies to both situations @ the
end of my bungee cords. Wow! That's interesting! In the smallest sense
it means to just stop the unraveling of the end of any cord @ the very
end. And in the other sense, it means the same thing, except not @ the
very end of the rope or cord & can be accomplished by doubling the
line over it's self or any other means that stops the eventual
unraveling.
BTW I assume you are a woman. My fathers middle name was also Joy. A n
unusual name for a man, but not at all uncommon for a woman. Thanks, JD
AMuzi
>
> Hello Andrew
> Thanks for the references. Yes I am interested in adjustable bungee
> cords, but that wasn't my primary question. I have a bulk spool of
> 1/4” cord & have hog ring attachable “J” hookks. The very end of the
> doubled over hog ring ends become quite frayed or busshie, somewhat
> obscuring the the security of the hogrings. I'm looking for an EZ fix
> to the end fraying.
> And yes I quite agree w/ you that safety is very important w/ these
> cords. I try to always remember to wear my glasses when stretching
> bungees.
> Do you sell the Bizland adjustable ends?
> Thanks, JD
We don't but I was aware of the format and a quick web
search showed a few products of that style.
jay
Dan O
Dan I appreciate your input. Sometimes the best solution to a problem
is to totally avoid it. But not in this case, I don't think. I have
loved bungee cords all my life, because I suffer from CRS (Can'
Remember $h!t, including tieing knots) (actually dyslexia) and also
CSS (Can't Spell $h!t) The 2 go together.
But I don't understand. I've always thought that Shock cord was just
another name for Bungee cord. Isn't cotton Shock cord stretchy?
Thanks, JD
jay
jay
Peter you must be using a different type of bungee than I'm using.
When I burn the end w/ an open flame it turns from white to gray. That
gray on top of the white never solidifys. It stays a goopey sticky
gray mess for ever. The butane powered 'hot knife' I tried was able to
slowly cut the bungee but it wasn't hot enough to melt the cords
together.
Interesting Utube video, Thanks, JD
Dan O
Shock cord may not be the right term for what I meant (braided cord -
not stretchy), and I'm sorry for pulling the old, "why not just ride a
steel frame with 36-spoke wheels" thing, when asked how to set up a
carbon bike :-)
Most of what I carry goes in a bag of some sort. About all I every
tie on the rack is wet booties, jacket, gloves, etc. Sometimes a loaf
of bread or such - all loads that keep their own tension under the
cord. Rigid materials do tend to wiggle and might even gain some
slack (although the cotton rope and adjustable knots do hold pretty
well). I can see the benefit of bungee, but they either have to be
very tight or risk bouncing loose - something the rope doesn't.
Michaels "hybrid" approach makes sense, and I do happen to carry a
short piece of inner tube in my tool kit, which I suppose could be
tied at one end of the rope to give bounce if needed. For that
matter, I now keep a cut full length inner tube "bungee" on my front
rack (works great to hold e.g. a pair of shoes on thr rack platform).
There was a report from some big cycling event in Portland a couple
years back. You know that link that Jay posted of the floating bike
path? There are sliding transition plates from land to "dock". I
guess they used to have quite a bump (mostly just a noisy and
disconcerting, but still... ) Some guy visiting for this ride hit one
of those and crashed and got hurt and there was a big fuss and they
eventually re-engineered the plates. Most riders' response was that
the plates were no such a big problem in the grand scheme of bike
riding. What actually made the guy crash? Bungee bounced loose and
went into his front wheel.
Andy
> Does anyone know an effective way to size (For that mater, does
> anyone
> know the correct spelling of this word? I've Googled & Googled &
> can't
> find a spelling that give the definition I'm looking for.) the ends of
> a
> bungee cord?
> I tried today by heating w/ a butane powered soldering torch. All I
> got
> was a slimy, stinky mess that never solidified. I would love to not
> have
> to put up w/ a bunch of white threads sticking out of the ends of the
> hooks.
> Thank you, JD
A hot glue gun will do the trick.
I glued some rope ten years ago and it is still holding.
Andy
Frank Krygowski
> ... What actually made the guy crash? Bungee bounced loose and
> went into his front wheel.
Yeah, keeping stuff out of your front wheel is way more important than
a lot of people think.
I have a friend who crashed a few months ago when his jacket (which
he'd taken off) dangled into his front wheel from his handlebars.
I have another friend who came on one of my night rides with a
flashlight fastened to her fork, courtesy of her husband. It vibrated
into her spokes within a hundred yards, and gave her a broken rib,
IIRC. And FWIW, neither of those folks were newbies.
When I was a newbie, I had the drawstring of a jacket get sucked into
my rear wheel spokes. I'd lashed the jacket on the rear rack. No
crash, but it did amazing damage to the rack. That's one of the
things that taught me to use bike bags.
- Frank Krygowski
Tºm Shermªn™ °_°
> [...]
> I have another friend who came on one of my night rides with a
> flashlight fastened to her fork, courtesy of her husband.
"Fred"?
> It vibrated
> into her spokes within a hundred yards, and gave her a broken rib,
> IIRC. And FWIW, neither of those folks were newbies.[...]
Grounds for divorce?
--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.
Joy Beeson
<jbe...@invalid.net.invalid> wrote:
> The description of "whipping" is exactly what I learned in the Mariner
> Scouts as "seizing the end of a rope".
Opened a book of Kipling while waiting for my computer to reboot, and
found the lines:
"That started as a boiler-whelp -- when steam and he were low
"I mind the time we used to serve a broken pipe wi' tow."
The scouts didn't "seize" the end of a rope -- they *served* it.
Something else to Google. And you might get better answers in
rec.crafts.knots. Zero traffic in that group, but a few old hands
monitor it in case a newb pops up with a question.
Joy Beeson
wrote:
> I'm looking for an EZ fix
> to the end fraying.
Ah, if you are cutting the cord where you want it finished, finish it
first and cut afterward.
With nylon mason's line, that means moving it back and forth in front
of a candle, then holding it straight until the partly-melted fibers
cool and cutting in the middle of the stiffened part. With shoelaces,
that means sliding on enough shrink tubing to make two aglets,
shrinking while holding the lace straight, then cutting the tubing in
half. I've no idea how this translates to bungee cords.
SMS
> With nylon mason's line, that means moving it back and forth in front
> of a candle, then holding it straight until the partly-melted fibers
> cool and cutting in the middle of the stiffened part. With shoelaces,
> that means sliding on enough shrink tubing to make two aglets,
> shrinking while holding the lace straight, then cutting the tubing in
> half. I've no idea how this translates to bungee cords.
I've used heat shrink tubing on bungee cords. Also on the end of brake
and derailleur cables to keep them from unraveling (sometimes solder
doesn't work).
On bungee cords, use two pieces. The first extends past the end of the
cord and is folded over. The second goes over the folded piece, all the
way onto the cord. Shrink both at the same time. The end is now
completely covered.
I've used heat shrink tubing in so many different ways it's hard to keep
track. IMVAIO, zip ties and heat shrink tubing are two of the greatest
inventions of all time.
Radey Shouman
> On Fri, 18 Mar 2011 22:44:57 -0500, Joy Beeson
> <jbe...@invalid.net.invalid> wrote:
>
>> The description of "whipping" is exactly what I learned in the Mariner
>> Scouts as "seizing the end of a rope".
>
> Opened a book of Kipling while waiting for my computer to reboot, and
> found the lines:
>
> "That started as a boiler-whelp -- when steam and he were low
> "I mind the time we used to serve a broken pipe wi' tow."
>
> The scouts didn't "seize" the end of a rope -- they *served* it.
In my experience, serving is applied to a substantial length of rope,
using a serving mallet, and preceded by worming and parceling. See
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm,_parcel_and_serve>
A lashing applied only to the end of a rope to prevent fraying is called
a whipping.
A seizing is used to tie two or more things (eg lines) together.
See <http://www.ropeworks.biz/reader/seizing.pdf>.
Michael Press
<7f58396e-cddd-4da2...@s18g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
Dan O <danov...@gmail.com> wrote:
It is not for bounce. Rather than belaying the braided
cotton cord directly to the rack while attempting to
keep it taut, I run a bungee cord from the working end
to the rack. With a couple loops of the cotton cord
over the load the tension of the bungee keeps the
cotton cord from going slack. Fast to tie down, fast
to remove because I tie no knots.
Ever notice how much friction there is when a line is
drawn across a round surface? The amount of friction
grows exponentially as the amount of wrap increases
linearly. This is why my lashing does not go slack.
Again.
Double a long cotton cord and bend the ends.
Ring hitch to the rack.
Over the load around a strut of the rack,
repeat as necessary, heaving away heartily
at each turn. You can take a round turn at
the rack, if you please.
Bungee cord from the working end to the rack.
--
Michael Press
Michael Press
Joy Beeson <jbe...@invalid.net.invalid> wrote:
> On Fri, 18 Mar 2011 22:44:57 -0500, Joy Beeson
> <jbe...@invalid.net.invalid> wrote:
>
> > The description of "whipping" is exactly what I learned in the Mariner
> > Scouts as "seizing the end of a rope".
>
> Opened a book of Kipling while waiting for my computer to reboot, and
> found the lines:
>
> "That started as a boiler-whelp -- when steam and he were low
> "I mind the time we used to serve a broken pipe wi' tow."
>
> The scouts didn't "seize" the end of a rope -- they *served* it.
Nobody seizes the end of a line or serves it. It is
whipped. Lashing two lines or two parts of the same
line with small stuff is seizing. Service is marline or
small stuff bound around standing rigging for
protection against wear. Get yourself a manual of
practical marlinspike seamanship. Kipling is great for
other stuff. Read _Stalky and Company_, have you?
--
Michael Press
Dan O
http://i54.tinypic.com/348slys.jpg
With the neoprene booties under the string, I can put a lot of
different things on the rack ad hoc - with booties either under or
over holding tension on the cord. I carry a couple of different
lengths with adjustable mariners hitches at each end. In summer I
don't the booties, but have a pair of long finger neoprene gloves in
my bag, which I can pull out ond stuff in there for tension.
Good tip re; using a hybrid line, though - thanks!