Trek Y-Foil
Matt Schiller
these frames. Want any known weaknesses. Weight, (I have size specs, still
need Seatpost size and BB size). Differences in years?
If you have any pictures of the bikes email them to me, dont worry about
size or number of pictures.
Anything you have to say on the bike please say it, either group or personal
email.
I am interested in getting a 59cm Y77 (99, Yellow). Any way to check carbon
frames for abuse, future failures? It has a claimed 250 miles on it, havent
seen it yet.
Thanks in advanced all.
Matt
Andrew Coggan
Pros: stiff bottom bracket, somewhat more aerodynamic than a standard frame,
possibly very slight comfort advantage to the "seat spar" design (when you
hit a sharp edge, it feels like you're using a wider tire than you really
are...but other than that, I can't tell a difference).
Cons: can only carry one standard sized water bottle on frame, about 1 lbs
heavier than alternatives (e.g., standard OCLV frame), paint has a tendency
to crack at the joint between the bottom bracket "lug" and downtube. Actual
failures, however, have apparently been rare...(I've heard of one frame that
developed cracks in the carbon on the underside of the seat spar, and the
bracket that holds the front derailleur had come loose on the first one I
ever saw/test rode.
Unique but neutral aspects: relatively slack seat tube angle, with
correspondingly longer than average top tube (my 56 cm frame has a 72 degree
seat tube angle and 56.5 cm top tube). Fits me like a glove, but may not fit
everyone.
Seatpost is 27.2; bottom bracket standard 68 mm English threading. AFAIK, no
difference between model years except paint/decal schemes (later models much
"splashier"...the gold you're considering is about as subtle as it gets).
Feel free to email me if you have any other questions.
Andy Coggan
"Matt Schiller" <vette...@qnet.com> wrote in message
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Mr. Tentoes
Hi There,
The Y foil like alot of the other bikes at the time may be a good idea
aerodynamically, but a fellow rider in our group had one where his
frame actually devolped cracks and split along the one side of the
frame during a ride. The bike wasn't crashed and is only about two
years old.
It's an interesting bike, but I would have to say that if your looking
for lightness and longevity pehaps consifder something else rather
than Trek. If you like the angles of the frame and it's stiffness
factor a good 853 frame will well.
If you'r looking for a different shapped bike the Softrides, Cervello,
and Kestrel all make a good "alternative frame design" that seem to
actually work well.
I got a custom steel frame from years ago with some pretty slack
angles that I can still perfom better on than anything made today.
Tim
Matt Schiller
that size (my Y33 is same size), wasnt sure on BB though.
I am looking at possibly getting a 99 Gold Y77, has 250 miles on it and is
advertised as "perfect condition", so assuming no crashes, cracks, etc.
(will know when I see it). Its a 59cm frame, I was measured by my LBS for a
~58.2, any final fit issues can be made in stem and seat positioning. I
will check the BB area for paint and carbon cracks, I also would expect the
V of the Y to be a higher stress area, along with the "top tube", due to
design.
If given the chance would you get the frame agian? Its between this and a
Alan Titanium frame, which actually will come to a bit more money in the
end. An 8 Speed Campy Record group is going on, I know this is in
great-excellent shape, I know the mechanic that has done all the maintance
on it, and the owner is a lady that races, this wasnt from a race bike, just
a fun bike.
The frameset (+BB, which will get sold, +seat(and post?), +stem, +bars) is
$450, Groupo is $350. Should be everything I need (except 1/2 set of cables
and bar tape, and pedals). Think this is a good buy? I havent seen any
online in the right size for anything near this price. And I will be slowly
building it up, the Groupo isn't for sale unless I want it (favor from the
lady to the mechanic), so not too worried about it being sold from under me.
I will be riding road, no racing, no Time Trial, no Triathalons, etc. Just
normal road riding, and a good majority of it will be flat. You say it is
about 1# heavier then a standard OCLV frame, those weigh in at about 2.5-3#
right? If so then its possibly even lighter then the Titanium frame I am
looking at, whats the fork weight?
I think that about wraps it up, besides stating that I love the look of the
bike from the pictures I have seen, and if its like most things pictures
dont do it justice. It will also match nicely my Nude Carbon Y33 Mtn Bike.
Thanks for the help and keep riding.
Matt
P.S. This will be my first road bike purchase.
"Andrew Coggan" <andya...@erols.com> wrote in message
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Andrew Coggan
Andy Coggan
"Mr. Tentoes" <vande...@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:3c124b00.15389948@news...
Andrew Coggan
to you....
Would I buy the Y Foil again? Maybe, maybe not...it would now be between it
and a Cervelo Soloist, which wasn't available at the time I bought the Y
Foil (with a team discount, BTW). I'd take the Cervelo with the extra water
bottle mounts, assuming that A) I could get the seat back as far as I
prefer, and B), I liked the handling (steering of the Y Foil is "stage race
neutral', i.e., 5.6 cm of trail, which is a little slower than many bikes,
but right in my "sweet spot").
Trek claimed a weight of 3.6 lbs for the Y Foil frame, vs. (as you know)
~2.5 for the standard OCLV. I don't know what the fork weighs, but it is
probably a bit heavier as well...I should have mentioned before that the Y
Foil has an extra short head tube and an extra tall fork crown, so that you
can replace the standard fork with a road suspension fork (e.g., Rock Shox
Ruby) w/o changing the geometry.
$450 for a Y Foil frame in excellent condition seems like it is in the
ballpark...the shop where I bought mine has a new frame on sale for $750,
but I doubt they're going to get it. Too "funky" of a design to appeal to
many people....
Aside from the paint crack I mentioned earlier, I don't know of any
particular problems with the frames, other posts notwithstanding. Frames of
all types fail (I've broken two carbon fiber, one aluminum, and one steel
frame myself...the latter was built by the guy who built the US team bikes
for the 1984 Olympics), and so one or two doesn't necessarily establish a
pattern (although not as many Y Foils are out there).
Andy Coggan
"Matt Schiller" <vette...@qnet.com> wrote in message
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Matt Schiller
I had someone send me a PDF of the 98 Trek Catalog (just the rear part that
has measurements), but if you have something with more information please
send.
I also forgot to note, I plan on wearing my hydration pack as I do mtn
biking (might get an aero one though) so the one bottle mount and pump isn't
a big deal to me.
I know of a new frame for $650 and a new one for $1k, but cheaper is better
for me, and I cant see 250 miles on a frame as being harmful (have to see
how big the guy is though, could be a huge guy I suppose).
The same thing was said about my Y33 frame, "oh they are crappy and break
easily, blah blah", its a 97 and no problems, my friend has a Y11 (96), and
no problems on his either. So as long as its not short of recall status I
wont be worried about it.
One thing I have noticed on my Y33 is side winds are horrible, tend to try
(sometimes its successful) to knock me over when going at a slow speed.
Same thing with the Y-Foil? I know headwinds the bike is supposed to be
better with (34% more aerodynamic I have seen listed online). But when its
windy here its a tornado, no actual wind direction.
Thanks again
Matt
"Andrew Coggan" <andya...@erols.com> wrote in message
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Matt Schiller
out of the seat-tube? If I get one and get it all dialed in right I would
like to cut it down to fit nicer, but can it be cut to the bottom of the
tube?
Matt
Andrew Coggan
> Andy: Thanks again (thats should have been thanks in the first reply
BTW).
You're welcome!
> I had someone send me a PDF of the 98 Trek Catalog (just the rear part
that
> has measurements), but if you have something with more information please
> send.
My bike is a 99, and so is the catalog...but for some reason, I hand wrote
all the dimensions on it, so I assume they're not listed, and I got them
from somewhere else. If you email me, that will remind me to look up them up
for you.
> One thing I have noticed on my Y33 is side winds are horrible, tend to try
> (sometimes its successful) to knock me over when going at a slow speed.
> Same thing with the Y-Foil? I know headwinds the bike is supposed to be
> better with (34% more aerodynamic I have seen listed online). But when
its
> windy here its a tornado, no actual wind direction.
I would say that crosswinds are more noticeable on the Y Foil, but not (to
me) in an annoying way. That is, I've ridden aero equipment (frames, wheels)
quite a bit, and have gotten used to the sort of sideways "drift" that
occasionally happens with this bike. Much worse is when crosswind hits an
aero front wheel, since that tends to not only move you sideways, but turn
the handlebars at the same time.
Maybe here's a better way of putting it: I ride down hills at ~45 mph on my
Y Foil all the time, in "descent position" with my hands on Scott Rake
aerobars mounted so close together that my knuckles almost rub the front
tire when gripping them. I feel more stable doing that than I do descending
on a conventional frame that has less trail (i.e., quicker steering).
Andy Coggan
Andrew Coggan
Seriously, any seatpost that sticks out below the bottom of the tube serves
no purpose whatsoever, so you can just cut it off with a hacksaw or, better
yet, a tubing cutter.
BTW, your question reminded me that the manual says that you should NOT
grease the seatpost, but leave it dry....
Andy Coggan
"Matt Schiller" <vette...@qnet.com> wrote in message
news:PRzQ7.40778$WC1.4...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
nhat
I picked up the frame on clearance at a local shop.
The frame rides extremely smoothly. One of the most comfortable in my
experiences. I have had the frame for 3 months now and have no major
problems.
Coming from aluminum an steel, I would say that this is my fav choice
for long distance riding.
I have not experience any kind of "bounce" or sway from the beam
design. it's stiff.
I do not race, so I cannot speak of the raceability of the design.
Don't be mislead the general assumption that the bike is light.
My Dura Ace equipped bike weighs in at 20 pounds even. I have some
light Velomax wheels and a Campy carbon seatpost. I could shed some
weight by removing the clip on aero bars.
Minor complaints:
On the 54cm, the water bottle cage mounts are difficult to use when
riding. There's not enough clearance
Mike Jacoubowsky
> On the 54cm, the water bottle cage mounts are difficult to use when
> riding. There's not enough clearance
There are several cages out now that allow you to remove the bottle from the
side, including the new Ciussi "Side" model.
--Mike--
Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReaction.com
"nhat" <phat...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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