sunscreen ate my paint
wle...@gmail.com
sunscreen ate my paint
where my knee touches the top tube [sometimes] [road bike]
fuji finest, aluminum frame, 2003
suddenly this year the paint goes soft and rubbery and peels off with
a fingernail
sunscreen!
what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
i guess the question is, is there a sunscreen that doesn;t do this?
there doesn;t seem to be any cure for the infected areas..
wle
Jeff Liebermann
<wle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>sunscreen!
What brand or type of sunscreen are you using?
If you're transfering greasy sunscreen from your knees to the top
tube, you're probably using too much sunscreen.
Was the paint job stock from Fuji or had it been repainted?
Was the paint peeling or the decals? Any primer left in place?
>what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
You don't want to know:
<http://www.naturalnews.com/032815_sunscreen_chemicals.html>
There are plenty of solvents and volatiles in the mix.
More bad news:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxybenzone>
It's usually disolved in some organic solvent and will go through the
skin. The solvent is probably what's eating the paint.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
AMuzi
Did the color fade before it fell off?
If not, it worked as intended.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
DirtRoadie
The inherently hazardous nature of sunscreen became apparent to me a
few years ago when I had some that ate through its own large plastic
container from the inside out.
DR
wle...@gmail.com
> Did the color fade before it fell off?
>
> If not, it worked as intended.
ha
no the paint didn;t fade
it didn;t get red or have melanomas either
wle
wle...@gmail.com
>
> What brand or type of sunscreen are you using?
not sure
maybe banana boat spf 30
smells like cocoa butter
i;d call it oily, not 'solventy' [like the sprays that you don;t have
to pump, those
seem to have a ton of alcohol, which immediately evaporates and you
choke on the fumes,
then some kind of plasticky film remains on you]
by the time i get on the bike though it has been on me for half an
hour at least
> If you're transfering greasy sunscreen from your knees to the top
> tube, you're probably using too much sunscreen.
yeah but they say people don;t use enough to really do anything
> Was the paint job stock from Fuji or had it been repainted?
stock
> Was the paint peeling or the decals? Any primer left in place?
paint
though actually it is a layered paint
they painted the whole frame sort of a metallic white
then parts of that have grey and red paint over that
not a decal
sunscreen ate through all 3 layers to bare aluminum
or maybe it ate through gray, red and white to some kind of gray
primer
>
> >what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
>
> You don't want to know:
> <http://www.naturalnews.com/032815_sunscreen_chemicals.html>
> There are plenty of solvents and volatiles in the mix.
they should be evaporated though
>
> More bad news:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxybenzone>
> It's usually disolved in some organic solvent and will go through the
> skin. The solvent is probably what's eating the paint.
wouldn;t an organic solvent be gone in about 10 mins though?
wle
Chalo
>
> sunscreen ate my paint
>
> where my knee touches the top tube [sometimes] [road bike]
>
> fuji finest, aluminum frame, 2003
>
> suddenly this year the paint goes soft and rubbery and peels off with
> a fingernail
>
> sunscreen!
Ach! Such are the perils of whiteness!
Chalo
wle...@gmail.com
wle
==
From: singlemalt ® 27/02/2004 7:49:15 PM
as sunscreen is designed for use on skin, this is the situation it is
best suited to. Yes, some of the chemicals may do things to plastic -
this doesn't mean it is bad for your skin...
..How about this situation - Water makes sodium explode, jeez, imagine
what it does to you if you bathe in it.
==From: goodbyesoberday ® 27/02/2004 7:52:33 PM
It makes you go wrinkly, surely a sign that your body is haveing
problems.
Crescentius Vespasianus
> sunscreen ate my paint
>
---------------
It will also eat the rubber part of sunglasses that rests on the nose.
DirtRoadie
wrote:
> > sunscreen ate my paint
>
> ---------------
> It will also eat the rubber part of sunglasses that rests on the nose.
I have experienced that too.
DR
Jeff Liebermann
>
>>
>> What brand or type of sunscreen are you using?
>
>not sure
>maybe banana boat spf 30
>smells like cocoa butter
>i;d call it oily, not 'solventy' [like the sprays that you don;t have
>to pump, those
> seem to have a ton of alcohol, which immediately evaporates and you
>choke on the fumes,
> then some kind of plasticky film remains on you]
>by the time i get on the bike though it has been on me for half an
>hour at least
Active Ingredients in Banana Boat Sunscreen Sport SPF 50: Octocrylene
(10.0%), Octinoxate (7.5%), Oxybenzone (6.0%), Octisalate (5.0%).
Inactive Ingredients (71.5%): Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid Diethylene Glycol Glycerin Crosspolymer,
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butyl Paraben, Carbomer, Cetyl Palmitate,
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, Dimethicone, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Isobutyl
Paraben, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isopropyl Paraben, Methyl Paraben,
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, PVP
Eicosence Copolymer, Silica, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Tocopherol
(Vitamin E), Tridecyl Neopentanoate, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA,
Water.
Looking at the shopping list of ingredients, I don't see anything that
would attack paint. There are some mild alcohols in the list, along
with some mild acids, but nothing very aggressive. The inactive
ingredients are mostly the same found in cosmetics. The major
inactive ingredients are both thickeners, intended to slow down
evaporation.
>> If you're transfering greasy sunscreen from your knees to the top
>> tube, you're probably using too much sunscreen.
>
>yeah but they say people don;t use enough to really do anything
Well, since you've already destroyed your paint job, how about a
simple test? Just smear some sunscreen directly onto the paint in
some obscure location and see what happens. My guess(tm) is that
nothing will happen.
>> Was the paint job stock from Fuji or had it been repainted?
>
>stock
Got a warranty?
<http://www.fujibikes.com/support>
>> Was the paint peeling or the decals? Any primer left in place?
>
>paint
>though actually it is a layered paint
>they painted the whole frame sort of a metallic white
>then parts of that have grey and red paint over that
>not a decal
>
>sunscreen ate through all 3 layers to bare aluminum
That's unlikely, unless some solvent got UNDER all the layers of
paint. If the initial primer layer was not adequately bonded to the
metal, then blistering will occur. Almost any liquid (or gas) that
gets into the blister will cause the paint to detach. If there had
been some chemical attacking the paint, it would have softened or
dissolved off the paint, not removed it in one piece.
It's also possible that the thermal expansion properties of the paint
does not properly match that of the underlying metal. As the metal
expands and contracts, the paint has to follow. High gloss enamel
paint is not particularly flexible, but with proper fillers (as found
in automotive paints) will follow the base metals expansions and
contractions.
My guess(tm) is that you have a defective paint job.
>or maybe it ate through gray, red and white to some kind of gray
>primer
Gray primer is probably zinc chromate based, which suggests that your
frame is steel, not aluminum.
>> >what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
>>
>> You don't want to know:
>> <http://www.naturalnews.com/032815_sunscreen_chemicals.html>
>> There are plenty of solvents and volatiles in the mix.
>
>they should be evaporated though
>
>>
>> More bad news:
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxybenzone>
>> It's usually disolved in some organic solvent and will go through the
>> skin. The solvent is probably what's eating the paint.
>
>wouldn;t an organic solvent be gone in about 10 mins though?
Yes, though some of the ingredients are intended to reduce evaporation
rate. Mostly, the active ingredients are suspended in a thin layer of
grease, which evaporates very slowly. When the instructions say "rub
the stuff into the skin", it really means "rub the stuff until the
volatiles evaporate". Nothing is really suppose to penetrate the
skin. However, some of the allegedly carcinogenic agents will be
carried into the pores by the solvents, which may cause problems.
Eventually, the stuff disappears from the skin, by dilution from sweat
and removal by skin ablation.
However, I (again) don't think there's a problem with solvent
attacking the paint. If that were the problem, the paint would
dissolve, wrinkle, or soften, not flake off in one piece, especially
through multiple layers.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>>sunscreen ate through all 3 layers to bare aluminum
(...)
>It's also possible that the thermal expansion properties of the paint
>does not properly match that of the underlying metal. As the metal
>expands and contracts, the paint has to follow. High gloss enamel
>paint is not particularly flexible, but with proper fillers (as found
>in automotive paints) will follow the base metals expansions and
>contractions.
>
>My guess(tm) is that you have a defective paint job.
Oops. I wasn't paying attention. Aluminum has it's own issues with
paint. I was once the owner of a 1972 Land Rover Series IIa with an
aluminum body. Convincing paint to stay attached was a major
challenge. The local paint and body shop made a mess of it, and I had
pieces of paint falling off every time I gave the body a thermal
shock. Probably the same with your aluminum frame.
I've also spent some time designing marine radios. I didn't do the
mechanical, but I did have to deal with the various environmental
issues (mostly salt fog, temperature) with the aluminum case and
chassis. T'was not simple.
If your paint flaked off in one piece, revealing bare aluminum, then
the initial primer coat is the culprit. The primer is attached to
aluminum by mechanical adhesion into surface cracks in the aluminum.
That last think you want is a mirror finish base metal. Either an
acid etch, or self etching primer is used to prepare the frame for
later painting. (Note: I've done this with radios, boats, and
vehicles, but not bicycles). If the primer is done wrong, or the
wrong type, or the acid etch isn't totally removed, the paint will
flake off later.
It's easy enough to (destructively) test the paint job. Get the frame
nice and hot in the sun. Then, throw it into a cold water bath. If
all the paint flakes off, it's defective.
Dan O
> On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 19:15:24 -0700 (PDT), "wle...@gmail.com"
>
> <wle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> What brand or type of sunscreen are you using?
>
<snip>
> Eventually, the stuff disappears from the skin, by dilution from sweat
> and removal by skin ablation.
>
> However, I (again) don't think there's a problem with solvent
> attacking the paint. If that were the problem, the paint would
> dissolve, wrinkle, or soften, not flake off in one piece, especially
> through multiple layers.
>
I am a nut for core tools: swiss army knife ("Tinker"), wristwatch,
ballpoint pen (things that are so easy to have with you, but that so
many people never seem to have when they need them).
I used to carry a Cross pen everywhere because I got one as a gift
(award), read the little literature that came with it and naively
thought they must be the best, and was (even more of) a pretentious
prick until I started to grow up around 45 or so.
It took a long time to finally be divested of the notion that Cross
was any good. Cross pens - though reliable enough to be worth
carrying for those times a pen was needed - are crap.
So I went looking for something else, and landed on the Rotring
Freeway. Elegantly modest, inauspicious, super reliable, comfortable
to use, beautifully engineered, works fantastic, and the one I got was
a very pretty blue metalflake.
Since I often wear shirts with no pocket, I am in the habit of
clipping the pen to my collar such that it hangs inside my shirt
against my chest. One day I'm looking at my pen, and notice some
roughness to the finish around the midway barrel joint. I scrape at
the roughness with my fingernail to try and smooth it, and the
beautiful blue metalflake and undercoating starts crumbling off like
candy coating.
I don't put anything on my skin. It had to be reacting to sweat, pure
and simple.
Now the pen has a bare metal spot a good 2 cm in diameter, but that's
okay; I've smoothed the edges (with my fingernail), and think it
actually kind of lends character, and helps me to be accepting of such
things and not so OCD.
thirty-six
Do you really want it drawing in to your circulation? Bin it!
thirty-six
Ever checked your sweat pH? Could easily be high if you don't
exercise hard.
Dan O
Never measured it with a gauge, but I usually wind up tasting it when
I exercise hard.
<snip>
AMuzi
Although a different aesthetic from your Rotring, no finish
issues at all with my Lady Parker Stainless ball point or,
with liquid ink, the matching Montblanc Princesse Stainless.
(I refer skinny pens, YMMV)
Michael Press
<8f2e328e-858c-4dc6...@b9g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
Dan O <danov...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It took a long time to finally be divested of the notion that Cross
> was any good. Cross pens - though reliable enough to be worth
> carrying for those times a pen was needed - are crap.
Would you say more?
--
Michael Press
Dan O
> In article
> <8f2e328e-858c-4dc6-9731-3e9b69a07...@b9g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
> Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > It took a long time to finally be divested of the notion that Cross
> > was any good. Cross pens - though reliable enough to be worth
> > carrying for those times a pen was needed - are crap.
>
> Would you say more?
>
The pocket clip is easily bent such that it won't hold securely
anymore. (I personally had no trouble taking care of my pen, but
handed a gold finish ballpoint to someone who asked to momentarily use
my pen [a tough spot to refuse without coming off like some kind of
freakazoid], and watched her grab the clip and pull on it, bending it
outward before my eyes. I tried to put the spring back in it, but
never could.) The refills are ungodly expensive, don't last long,
don't flow smoothly, and get gloppy. Finally, I just don't like their
feel, and they hurt my fingers if I have to write much with it.
(YMMV - didn't mean to pass blanket judgment.)
Dan O
Oh, yeah - I also had a fairly expensive Cross rolling ball / porous
point (interchangeable) - the spring in the bottom that holds the
refill up to the tip came unglued and fell out (which just meant that
I had to keep track of it and drop it back in whenever changing the
refill - just kind of annoying), the cap would snap on and stay, but
had close to a mm of play).
Something else more dire happened to that pen, too - don't remember
what it was, but Cross did mail me a replacement part. Warranty
replacement does no good in the field when you need a tool to work.
The part of the barrel that you manipulate for writing was cheap
plastic.
Stuff like that.
john B.
wrote:
>On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 19:15:24 -0700 (PDT), "wle...@gmail.com"
err... Zinc chromate is a corrosion protecting layer applied to
aluminum, not steel. Thus its presence doesn't indicate a steel frame,
quite the opposite.
>>> >what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
>>>
>>> You don't want to know:
>>> <http://www.naturalnews.com/032815_sunscreen_chemicals.html>
>>> There are plenty of solvents and volatiles in the mix.
>>
>>they should be evaporated though
>>
>>>
>>> More bad news:
>>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxybenzone>
>>> It's usually disolved in some organic solvent and will go through the
>>> skin. The solvent is probably what's eating the paint.
>>
>>wouldn;t an organic solvent be gone in about 10 mins though?
>
>Yes, though some of the ingredients are intended to reduce evaporation
>rate. Mostly, the active ingredients are suspended in a thin layer of
>grease, which evaporates very slowly. When the instructions say "rub
>the stuff into the skin", it really means "rub the stuff until the
>volatiles evaporate". Nothing is really suppose to penetrate the
>skin. However, some of the allegedly carcinogenic agents will be
>carried into the pores by the solvents, which may cause problems.
>Eventually, the stuff disappears from the skin, by dilution from sweat
>and removal by skin ablation.
>
>However, I (again) don't think there's a problem with solvent
>attacking the paint. If that were the problem, the paint would
>dissolve, wrinkle, or soften, not flake off in one piece, especially
>through multiple layers.
Cheers,
John B.
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
> [...]
> If your paint flaked off in one piece, revealing bare aluminum, then
> the initial primer coat is the culprit. The primer is attached to
> aluminum by mechanical adhesion into surface cracks in the aluminum.
> That last think you want is a mirror finish base metal. Either an
> acid etch, or self etching primer is used to prepare the frame for
> later painting. (Note: I've done this with radios, boats, and
> vehicles, but not bicycles). If the primer is done wrong, or the
> wrong type, or the acid etch isn't totally removed, the paint will
Paint and polished aluminium can be combined, as on this pretty bird:
<http://www.lunabase.org/~faber/Flying/seattle03/images/cessna_140.jpg>.
--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731°N, 83.985007°W
I am a vehicular cyclist.
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
> So I went looking for something else, and landed on the Rotring
> Freeway.
Apparently in Russia:
<http://maps.google.com/maps?q=rotring+freeway&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wl>.
> Elegantly modest, inauspicious, super reliable, comfortable
> to use, beautifully engineered, works fantastic, and the one I got was
> a very pretty blue metalflake.
This is the pen I usually carry:
<http://www.pilotpen.us/ProductGroup/711-Precise-V5-V7.aspx>.
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
Bin the bike when some touch-up paint would do?
Michael Press
wrote:
I carry around a skinny pen, a Cross, that always
responds with a clear line. My Cross fountain pen
is a treat to use.
--
Michael Press
Jeff Liebermann
<""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI$southslope.net"> wrote:
>On 8/31/2011 10:59 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> > [...]
>> If your paint flaked off in one piece, revealing bare aluminum, then
>> the initial primer coat is the culprit. The primer is attached to
>> aluminum by mechanical adhesion into surface cracks in the aluminum.
>> That last thing you want is a mirror finish base metal. Either an
>> acid etch, or self etching primer is used to prepare the frame for
>> later painting. (Note: I've done this with radios, boats, and
>> vehicles, but not bicycles). If the primer is done wrong, or the
>> wrong type, or the acid etch isn't totally removed, the paint will
>> flake off later.[...]
>
>Paint and polished aluminium can be combined, as on this pretty bird:
><http://www.lunabase.org/~faber/Flying/seattle03/images/cessna_140.jpg>.
Nice.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cessna_140>
My guess is that they polished the entire airplane, masked off the
areas where there was NOT going to be any paint, used a conventional
acid etch to prepare the painted areas, added paint over the etched
areas, and clear coated the entire airplane.
James
> Oops. I wasn't paying attention. Aluminum has it's own issues with
> paint. I was once the owner of a 1972 Land Rover Series IIa with an
> aluminum body.
I feel your pain.
For me, it was easier to let the paint fall off and convince the next
owner it doesn't rust. I pity the dude that bought it from me to this
day.
--
JS
David Scheidt
:I feel your pain.
I've painted all or parts of about a dozen series land rovers, and had
no problems with paint failure. Scraping off the paint with a tree
not being a paint failure.... Don't know what you guys were doing
wrong, except poor surface prep and wrong materials.
--
sig 69
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
thirty-six
Well, if you want a toy. Land Rovers go where there are no roads,
Toy's follow.
Mike Jacoubowsky
news:0ca1947c-624b-49da...@a31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
> that;s it
>
> sunscreen ate my paint
>
> where my knee touches the top tube [sometimes] [road bike]
>
> fuji finest, aluminum frame, 2003
>
> suddenly this year the paint goes soft and rubbery and peels off with
> a fingernail
>
> sunscreen!
>
> what is that stuff doing to my gizzard or epiwhoozit!
>
> i guess the question is, is there a sunscreen that doesn;t do this?
>
> there doesn;t seem to be any cure for the infected areas..
>
>
> wle
I don't see much paint damage from sunscreen, but it sure eats up
decals!!! Particularly vinyl. Took a while to figure out what was going
on; had a lot of upset customers who thought it was the bike's fault
until I discovered the common denominator and just about 100% of the
customers admitted to using sunscreen and had a pedaling style that
caused their legs to lightly brush against the top tube. It took some
time but I eventually found some obscure references to extensive
research in the auto industry to find ways to protect interior vinyl
from sunscreen.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
kolldata
the.....ate my paint
yeah the ....ate my paint
then my balls fell off
after the what...ate my paint
ect
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
All the parts falling off a Land Rover are of the finest British quality.
thirty-six
They might get dented and bent, but I've never heard of anything
falling off. Care to tell of your personla experience, and you can't
count the paint?
thirty-six
Again : Care to tell of your unique experience as regards the falling
off of Land Rover parts. Are you getting confused with a green
bicycle mutation?
James
> On 9/2/2011 3:29 AM, thirty-six wrote:
>> On Sep 2, 3:23 am, "T°m Sherm@n"<""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI
>> $southslope.net"> wrote:
>>> On 9/1/2011 5:08 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
>>>
>>>> James<james.e.stew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> :On Sep 1, 1:59 am, Jeff Liebermann<je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> :> Oops. I wasn't paying attention. Aluminum has it's own
>>>> issues with
>>>> :> paint. I was once the owner of a 1972 Land Rover Series IIa
>>>> with an
>>>> :> aluminum body.
>>>
>>>> :I feel your pain.
>>>
>>>> :For me, it was easier to let the paint fall off and convince the next
>>>> :owner it doesn't rust. I pity the dude that bought it from me to this
>>>> :day.
>>>
>>>> I've painted all or parts of about a dozen series land rovers, and had
>>>> no problems with paint failure. Scraping off the paint with a tree
>>>> not being a paint failure.... Don't know what you guys were doing
>>>> wrong, except poor surface prep and wrong materials.
>>>
>>> The problem is the badge says "Land Rover" and not "Land Cruiser".
>>>
>> Toy's follow.
>
> All the parts falling off a Land Rover are of the finest British quality.
>
The oil that drips from under a Land Rover is useful to others who are
tracking them when they fail to make it to their destination.
--
JS
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
Never silly enough to pay the price premium on a luxury SUV (which Land
Rovers have been in the US since I was old enough to legally drive).
First Google hit:
<http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/Land-Rover_Range-Rover/Reliability/>.
thirty-six
>
Yes, that refers to Range Rovers which are not Land Rovers. Range
Rovers have always been aimed at the luxury end of the market. Land
Rovers were basic utilitarian vehicles and sold as such until Ford
took control. The basic Land Rover today is known as a Defender and
with a 90" wheelbase can go where no other production vehicle can, but
you can get an exceptional road car when buying new for the same
money. I think the used market will remain bouyant for a long while.
I'd still like to know what falls off a Land Rover, and don't include
Range Rover or L R Discovery this time.
thirty-six
The drip is there so you know the chassis is getting a regular top up
to the rust protection. It's an essential requirement for vehicles
which scrape over rocks.
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
Really? A 4WD pickup with proper tires will do as well, for less money
at a higher level of reliability.
> but
> you can get an exceptional road car when buying new for the same
> money. I think the used market will remain bouyant for a long while.
>
> I'd still like to know what falls off a Land Rover, and don't include
> Range Rover or L R Discovery this time.
Why not, as they are all now products of Tata?
thirty-six
I don't think the workers at Solihull see it so clear cut as you do.
James
> On Sep 5, 12:35 am, "T逅 Sherm@n" <""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI>>> On Sep 3, 6:02 am, "T逅 Sherm@n"<""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI>>>>> On Sep 2, 3:23 am, "T逅 Sherm@n"<""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI
>>>>> $southslope.net"> wrote:
>>>>>> On 9/1/2011 5:08 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
>>>>>>> James<james.e.stew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> :On Sep 1, 1:59 am, Jeff Liebermann<je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> :> Oops. I wasn't paying attention. Aluminum has it's own issues with
>>>>>>> :> paint. I was once the owner of a 1972 Land Rover Series IIa with an
>>>>>>> :> aluminum body.
>>>>>>> :I feel your pain.
>>>>>>> :For me, it was easier to let the paint fall off and convince the next
>>>>>>> :owner it doesn't rust. I pity the dude that bought it from me to this
>>>>>>> :day.
>>>>>>> I've painted all or parts of about a dozen series land rovers, and had
>>>>>>> no problems with paint failure. Scraping off the paint with a tree
>>>>>>> not being a paint failure.... Don't know what you guys were doing
>>>>>>> wrong, except poor surface prep and wrong materials.
>>>>>> The problem is the badge says "Land Rover" and not "Land Cruiser".
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> I am a vehicular cyclist.
>>>>> Well, if you want a toy. Land Rovers go where there are no roads,
>>>>> Toy's follow.
>>>> All the parts falling off a Land Rover are of the finest British quality.
>>> They might get dented and bent, but I've never heard of anything
>>> falling off. Care to tell of your personla experience, and you can't
>>> count the paint?
>> Never silly enough to pay the price premium on a luxury SUV (which Land
>> Rovers have been in the US since I was old enough to legally drive).
>>
>> First Google hit:
>> <http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/Land-Rover_Range-Rov...>.
>>
>
> Yes, that refers to Range Rovers which are not Land Rovers. Range
> Rovers have always been aimed at the luxury end of the market. Land
> Rovers were basic utilitarian vehicles and sold as such until Ford
> took control.
When Ford took control, LRs got a little more reliable, but were still
LRs, and not really contenders in the reliability stakes. Now with
Tata, what can I say... all down hill from here!
> The basic Land Rover today is known as a Defender and
> with a 90" wheelbase can go where no other production vehicle can, but
> you can get an exceptional road car when buying new for the same
> money. I think the used market will remain bouyant for a long while.
They might get somewhere off the beaten track before breaking down, but
they are certainly not capable of going "where no other production
vehicle can", considering the Nissan Patrol and Toyota Land Cruiser
regularly go where Chook Chasers have broken in the attempt, and the
Jeep Wrangler 4 door Rubicon model has such features as sway bar
disconnect and diff locks standard, making it far more off roadie, off
the shelf!
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/cs/jeepreviews/a/aa110902a_2.htm
> I'd still like to know what falls off a Land Rover, and don't include
> Range Rover or L R Discovery this time.
The ol' chook chasers, so named because that is all they were good for
in this country, were prone to breaking axles and rear diffs. That is
why the Australian Arm immediately upgraded the standard rear end to a
salisbury diff. The rest of Australia laughed at the Australian Army,
and bought Land Cruisers instead.
http://www.angelfire.com/mn/landroversucks/
--
JS.
James
They should have used boiled linseed oil ;-)
--
JS.
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
> [...]
> The ol' chook chasers, so named because that is all they were good for
I thought a chook chaser was a dirt bike?
> in this country, were prone to breaking axles and rear diffs. That is
> why the Australian Arm immediately upgraded the standard rear end to a
> salisbury diff. The rest of Australia laughed at the Australian Army,
> and bought Land Cruisers instead.
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/mn/landroversucks/
>
Love the GIF at the top.
<http://www.angelfire.com/mn/landroversucks/images/disco_animation.gif>
--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731°N, 83.985007°W
"\"T°m Sherm@n >
> thirty-six wrote:
>> [...]
>>> The oil that drips from under a Land Rover is useful to others who are
>>> tracking them when they fail to make it to their destination.
>>
>> The drip is there so you know the chassis is getting a regular top up
>> to the rust protection. It's an essential requirement for vehicles
>> which scrape over rocks.
>
> They should have used boiled linseed oil ;-)
>
How about molybdenum-disulphide to allow the undercarriage to smoothly
slide over the rocks?
James
> On 9/4/2011 11:44 PM, James wrote:
>> [...]
>> The ol' chook chasers, so named because that is all they were good for
>
> I thought a chook chaser was a dirt bike?
Land Rover Series I, II and III get the same name here, though you may
be correct for the origin.
--
JS.