Bike won't "freewheel"

[Allen Walters]

Hi...

I got my bike (an old Trek 520 15-speed sport-tourer) out of winter
storage recently, and after dusting it off and lubricating it I took
it out for a short ride, and for some reason the crank won't
freewheel. I think that's the correct term. I mean that when I take my
feet off the pedals and coast, the pedals keep turning. When I walk
the bike, instead of hearing that ratcheting sound, the crank turns. I
thought one of the chain links might be kinked but that doesn't seem
to be the case. Is something wrong with the freewheel hub thing on the
rear wheel? Can it be corrected? The last time I rode it last fall it
worked fine.

Thanks,

Allen
hel...@tds.net

[Daniel Connelly]

Either :

1. Your bike awoke one morning and, in Kafkaesque style, became a track bike.
2. the freewheel is frozen. Dump oil in there.
3. the freewheel is frozen. Get a new freewheel.
4. the freehub is frozen. Dump oil in there.
5. The freehub is frozen. Insert a new freehub body.

Freehub bodies require 10mm allen keys to replace. See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

Dan

[Peter]

On Mon, 28 May 2001 22:35:23 GMT, Allen Walters <hel...@powercom.net>
wrote:

>I got my bike (an old Trek 520 15-speed sport-tourer) out of winter
>storage recently, and after dusting it off and lubricating it I took
>it out for a short ride, and for some reason the crank won't
>freewheel. I think that's the correct term. I mean that when I take my
>feet off the pedals and coast, the pedals keep turning. When I walk
>the bike, instead of hearing that ratcheting sound, the crank turns. I
>thought one of the chain links might be kinked but that doesn't seem
>to be the case. Is something wrong with the freewheel hub thing on the
>rear wheel? Can it be corrected?

Yep, something is wrong. It wore out. It needs replacing.

It's fairly easy but you need to make sure the new one is
compatable with your gears and hub.

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

Helicomatic freewheel, by any chance? If it hasn't been used in a long
time, Daniel Connelly's suggestion to dump oil into the freewheel body is
right on the money. After many years of non-use, the ratcheting assemblies
and bearings would get quite sticky and do exactly what you describe. Take
the wheel out of the frame, lay it down flat (freewheel-side up) and drip
some lightweight oil into the area where the body is stationary but the cogs
turn. Not sure if I'm being real clear on that! But inspection will
probably give you the right idea. You're not lubing the hub, just the
freewheel mechanism. I'd start with a really light oil, maybe WD40, to get
things loose, and then later on drip something heavier in there (a bit of
motor oil).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Allen Walters" <hel...@powercom.net> wrote in message
news:r7k5htcuoail38gnq...@4ax.com...

[go...@erols.com]

Another idea: remove the freewheel (or cluster) and take off the
spoke protector -- throw it away. My guess is that there's not enough
clearance between your low gear and the spokes, and the spoke
protector has "jammed" causing the freewheel to rotate along with the
wheel spokes. Happened to me once.
--Ed G--

On Mon, 28 May 2001 22:35:23 GMT, Allen Walters <hel...@powercom.net>
wrote:

>Hi...