New spokes / used hub
Hans Are Vatland
I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a rebuild with
new spokes/rim.
Any comments?
Regards, Hans A. Vatland.
Adam Rice
> I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a
rebuild with
> new spokes/rim.
If the hub is in good shape, you should have no problems. I've done it and
been satisfied with the results.
Adam Rice | adam...@crossroads.net
Austin TX USA | http://www.crossroads.net
Jobst Brandt
Hans Are Vatland writes:
> I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a
> rebuild with new spokes/rim.
You should attempt to achieve the same spoke pattern and orientation
so the new spokes lie in the same dimples in the flanges that the old
ones did. The dimples indicate that the metal was stressed beyond
the yield strength and causes metal flow. Doing this again, in a new
direction can and often has lead to flange failures. I have several
of those in my collection.
If your spokes are any good and you plan to use the same kind of rim,
you would be better off not unspoking your wheel, but rather to
transfer the spokes, rims side-by-side, to the new rim. This is the
only reasonable way of reusing spokes. The longer you use spokes, the
greater the probability that they will not fail at all, because a
spoke that hasn't failed in 10,000 miles or so, is obviously well
stress relieved and has not critical stress zones. Keeping these
spokes in the same locations ensured that no new high stresses will
be introduced.
Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Jeffrey L. Bell
[posted & emailed]
In article <6eo0kr$oc4$2...@marton.hsr.no>, Hans Are Vatland <h...@hsr.no> wrote:
>I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a rebuild with
>new spokes/rim.
If you do, make sure to lace it so that spokes fall into the same
grooves as the previous spoking. If you try to lace it in another
position, you'll get notches in the tension part of the spoke hole
which can cause flange failure.
-Jeff Bell
John Everett
In article <6ep1pi$k...@hplntx.hpl.hp.com>, jbr...@hpl.hp.com says...
>
>You should attempt to achieve the same spoke pattern and orientation
>so the new spokes lie in the same dimples in the flanges that the old
>ones did. The dimples indicate that the metal was stressed beyond
>the yield strength and causes metal flow. Doing this again, in a new
>direction can and often has lead to flange failures. I have several
>of those in my collection.
Oops. When I rebuilt my Normandy Luxe Competition/Mavic Montlhéry wheels as
part of a PX10 restoration, I discovered that the original wheelbuilder had
mistakenly inserted the spokes with the heads in the countersinks. So I laced
them "correctly". Am I in trouble here?
>If your spokes are any good and you plan to use the same kind of rim,
>you would be better off not unspoking your wheel, but rather to
>transfer the spokes, rims side-by-side, to the new rim. This is the
>only reasonable way of reusing spokes. The longer you use spokes, the
>greater the probability that they will not fail at all, because a
>spoke that hasn't failed in 10,000 miles or so, is obviously well
>stress relieved and has not critical stress zones. Keeping these
>spokes in the same locations ensured that no new high stresses will
>be introduced.
And along these same lines, (having just re-rimmed a pair of wheels in just
this way), is it important to stress relieve again while tensioning and
truing, or has their 21K+ miles relieved the spokes beyond my poor powers to
add or subtract?
--
jeve...@wwa.DEFEAT.UCE.BOTS.com (John Everett) http://www.wwa.com/~jeverett
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Things have gotten so bad I feel the need to disguise my email address.
And I don't like this explanation because I just hate long signatures.
Jobst Brandt
John Everett writes:
> Oops. When I rebuilt my Normandy Luxe Competition/Mavic Montlhéry
> wheels as part of a PX10 restoration, I discovered that the original
> wheelbuilder had mistakenly inserted the spokes with the heads in
> the countersinks. So I laced them "correctly". Am I in trouble here?
Only if you weigh over 150lbs or ride much, like 10000mi per year.
Yes, the re-spoking with a different orientation has always been a
warranty breaker with Campagnolo. As I said, the flange went to yield
in one direction, and doing it again in another is not good, but it
doesn't necessarily mean imminent failure. Wait and see.
> And along these same lines, (having just re-rimmed a pair of wheels
> in just this way), is it important to stress relieve again while
> tensioning and truing, or has their 21K+ miles relieved the spokes
> beyond my poor powers to add or subtract?
I don't think so, but I would do it just the same just in case there
are any you didn't get previously. I usually do the whole wheel after
replacing one spoke.
Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Propeloton
Rebuilding in a new orientation is a 'warrenty breaker' with shimano as well.
Peter
David Pottage
> I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a
> rebuild with new spokes/rim.
I did that about a year ago. It worked fine untill the hub bearings
disintergrated, and destoyed the hub.
Next time I will check the bearings are good before acepting a used wheel.
You should do the same.
Hope this helps.
--
David
David Pottage.
Robert L. Frazier
On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:02:59 +0000, David Pottage <da...@pottage.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <6eo0kr$oc4$2...@marton.hsr.no>, Hans Are Vatland
><URL:mailto:h...@hsr.no> wrote:
>
>> I was wondering if I will run into problems using my old hub for a
>> rebuild with new spokes/rim.
>
>I did that about a year ago. It worked fine untill the hub bearings
>disintergrated, and destoyed the hub.
>
>Next time I will check the bearings are good before acepting a used wheel.
>You should do the same.
>
I've a pair of Campy NR hubs from the late '70s. They must be on their 7th or
8th rebuild (>100K mi). I overhaul them twice a year (summer/winter) and
change the bearings during each winter overhaul. Of course, if they seem
`weird' (a cycling technical notion), I'll overhaul them immediately.
Best wishes,
Bob
--
Robert L. Frazier EMAIL: robert....@christ-church.ox.ac.uk
Christ Church TELEPHONE: +44 1865 276493
Oxford OX1 1DP FAX: +44 1865 794199
UK
Ned Mantei
In article <slrn6h9plh....@kant1.chch.ox.ac.uk>,
robert....@christ-church.oxford.ac.uk wrote:
> I've a pair of Campy NR hubs from the late '70s. They must be on their 7th or
> 8th rebuild (>100K mi).
My experience has been that somewhere along the line, even with rebuilds
every 4,000 km or so, I have one or more small pits in the bearing races.
At this point I give up on the hub (I don't use hubs with replaceable
races). Does such pitting necessarily imply that the bearings were poorly
adjusted during the previous rebuild, or is this something that will just
happen with time? The same question could apply to bottom brackets. (Last
year I bought my first bike with "sealed" bearings. It seemed almost odd
not to do a bearing overhaul this past winter.)
--
Ned Mantei
Dept. of Neurobiology, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
CH-8093 Zurich, Switzerland
to reach me more quickly, replace my first name by my last name in my e-mail address.