RoadRat Buildup Report
Tosspot
issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some
single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic
for answering many fuckwitted questions.
http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the
Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs
for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including
forks was attractive.
The Alfine package came from
http://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p20582_Alfine-S501-Komplettset.html
Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll
leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price
below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at
this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead
of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the
gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved
this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to
have got it right first time.
The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking
style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you
look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because
the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I
couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead.
Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying
setback.
The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be
the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on
those.
I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I
already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend.
The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that
haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but
having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was
the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for
commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag
DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you
can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized
package. Much more versatile.
http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags
Thats about it. I used God's own saddle, the IQ Fly to blind low
flying birds, and the M324s that I have on all my bikes.
Pictures are here, prices (a bit approximate) are below.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56718564@N00/sets/72157622668314206/
Alfine Brakes (pair) 150
Alfine Cranks 65
Alfine Hub Dynamo 65
Alfine Hub Set (includes Cable and Shifter) 190
B+M Rear Light 10
Cotic Road Rat Frame 260
Grips 25
Handlebars 25
Hope Cable Guides 10
Hope Headset 65
Innertubes 10
B+M IQ Fly Front Light 75
Marathon Plus Tyres (pair) 50
Pedals – Shimano M324s 45
Post Moderne Bracer Seat Post 40
Rim Tape 5
Saddle (B17 Pro) 60
Sigma BC906 Cycle Computer 15
SKS Mudguards 15
Spokes (72) 25
Topeak Super Tourist Rack 25
Point Stem 20
DT Swiss TK 7.1 Rims (pair) 100
A2Z Center Lock Kit 15
Topeak RX Trunkbag EX 25
Miscellaneous 100
1490
landotter
> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small
> issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some
> single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
>
> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic
> for answering many fuckwitted questions.
>
> http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
Looks to be a good all rounder.
>
> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the
> Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs
> for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including
> forks was attractive.
>
> The Alfine package came from
>
> http://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p20582_Alfine-S501-Komple...
>
> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll
> leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price
> below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at
> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead
> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the
> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved
> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to
> have got it right first time.
Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm
missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
>
> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking
> style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you
> look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because
> the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I
> couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead.
Can't see why you can't use trekking bars from the photos. As you're
using hydros, funny turns matter little. If you want a cleaner look,
run your levers yankee style with the left squeezing the front disk,
which I noticed is on the drive side--you 'll get a nicer arc.
Here's mine from the front:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4083420842_f90e95f785_o.jpg
[snip]
>
> Pictures are here, prices (a bit approximate) are below.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/56718564@N00/sets/72157622668314206/
I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that
distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay
bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great
for this.
Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
AMuzi
> Post Moderne Bracer Seat Post 40
> Rim Tape 5
> Saddle (B17 Pro) 60
> Sigma BC906 Cycle Computer 15
> SKS Mudguards 15
> Spokes (72) 25
> Topeak Super Tourist Rack 25
> Point Stem 20
> DT Swiss TK 7.1 Rims (pair) 100
> A2Z Center Lock Kit 15
> Topeak RX Trunkbag EX 25
> Miscellaneous 100
> 1490
I did not understand the cable conflict with trekker bars:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/SANRAD8.JPG
One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they
seem pretty straightforward. Did I miss something?
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Tosspot
> On Nov 7, 8:29 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
<snip>
>> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll
>> leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price
>> below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at
>> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead
>> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the
>> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved
>> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to
>> have got it right first time.
>
> Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm
> missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
Hmmm, at risk of upsetting a moderator I'm going to go for what I'm
thinking. Have you ever tried to get that fucking circlip off of an
Alfine? I would have paid *double* to avoid the hours of fucking
about with that thing. I now have *three* circlip wrenches, all of
them *almost* do the job. It's on. It's staying on. It's *never*
coming off until I've worn through the cog *and* the bloody circlip.
So there.
>> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking
>> style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you
>> look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because
>> the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I
>> couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead.
>
> Can't see why you can't use trekking bars from the photos. As you're
> using hydros, funny turns matter little. If you want a cleaner look,
> run your levers yankee style with the left squeezing the front disk,
> which I noticed is on the drive side--you 'll get a nicer arc.
>
> Here's mine from the front:
>
> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4083420842_f90e95f785_o.jpg
Yep. And like my Nexave setup, the cables are angled from the
housing. If you have a traditional 'straight out' it won't fit.
> [snip]
>> Pictures are here, prices (a bit approximate) are below.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/56718564@N00/sets/72157622668314206/
>
> I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that
> distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay
> bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great
> for this.
Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying
around. Many thanks for that.
> Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
Heretic.
Tosspot
I would guess, as I mentioned up there, that the cables come out of
the housing at an angle. The tradional 'straight out' hydraulic hoses
won't do it. Trust me I tried.
landotter
> AMuzi wrote:
> > Tosspot wrote:
> >> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small
> >> issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some
> >> single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
>
> >> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic
> >> for answering many fuckwitted questions.
>
> >>http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
>
> >> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the
> >> Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs
> >> for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including
> >> forks was attractive.
>
> >> The Alfine package came from
>
> >> Post Moderne Bracer Seat Post 40
> >> Rim Tape 5
> >> Saddle (B17 Pro) 60
> >> Sigma BC906 Cycle Computer 15
> >> SKS Mudguards 15
> >> Spokes (72) 25
> >> Topeak Super Tourist Rack 25
> >> Point Stem 20
> >> DT Swiss TK 7.1 Rims (pair) 100
> >> A2Z Center Lock Kit 15
> >> Topeak RX Trunkbag EX 25
> >> Miscellaneous 100
> >> 1490
>
> > I did not understand the cable conflict with trekker bars:
> >http://www.yellowjersey.org/SANRAD8.JPG
>
> > One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they seem pretty
> > straightforward. Did I miss something?
>
> I would guess, as I mentioned up there, that the cables come out of
> the housing at an angle. The tradional 'straight out' hydraulic hoses
> won't do it. Trust me I tried.
How much more room do you need? The Yuma bar clones I've got could
handle a 2cm trim on each and and still be usable.
Andre Jute
> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small
> issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some
> single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
>
> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic
> for answering many fuckwitted questions.
>
> http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
>
> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the
> Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs
> for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including
> forks was attractive.
>
> The Alfine package came from
>
Coupla high-tech questions arise:
1. Is that copper-colour as yummie in real life as on the photographs?
Don't tell me it is, or I'll have to shoot myself: last year I had a
Cannondale in that colour on order, only it turned out it was a bait
and switch, the dealer had long since sold out and Cannondale weren't
making any more...
2. Where are the mudflaps? Or do you have the long mudguards in store
somewhere to use in the winter? If you're planning on splashing out --
heh-heh! -- on Brooks mudflaps to match your saddle, be sure to check
the size first: once fitted they're not very long.
Andre Jute
Ever so slightly green -- sniff!
Andre Jute
> landotter wrote:
> > On Nov 7, 8:29 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> >> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead
> >> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the
> >> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved
> >> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to
> >> have got it right first time.
>
> > Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm
> > missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
>
> Hmmm, at risk of upsetting a moderator I'm going to go for what I'm
> thinking. Have you ever tried to get that fucking circlip off of an
> Alfine? I would have paid *double* to avoid the hours of fucking
> about with that thing. I now have *three* circlip wrenches, all of
> them *almost* do the job. It's on. It's staying on. It's *never*
> coming off until I've worn through the cog *and* the bloody circlip.
> So there.
I wear a fullface clear helmet to keep the thing out of my eyes, check
that I have several spares (Petra Cycles are good for small Shimano
parts) and then just apply two screwdrivers and slide as I lever. I'm
sure many of my wife's plants on the living room patio are embraced by
circlips... Actually, I find getting the circlip back on harder than
getting it off.
.......
> > I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that
> > distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay
> > bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great
> > for this.
>
> Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying
> around. Many thanks for that.
Symmetry and concentricism is overrated. A bit of asymmetry is very in
your face, yeb vas, on a bike called "Road Rat". If you make it too
perfect it looks poncey, like a bike trailered to shows.
> > Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
>
> Heretic.
Maxine is a Swede. She probably believes pain purifies and pain in the
butt purifies most of all.
Thanks for sharing.
Andre Jute
The rest is magic hidden in the hub.
For rare hub gear bikes, visit Jute on Bicycles at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html
Tosspot
> On Nov 7, 2:29 pm, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
<snip>
>> Pictures are here, prices (a bit approximate) are below.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/56718564@N00/sets/72157622668314206/
<snip>
> Coupla high-tech questions arise:
>
> 1. Is that copper-colour as yummie in real life as on the photographs?
> Don't tell me it is, or I'll have to shoot myself: last year I had a
> Cannondale in that colour on order, only it turned out it was a bait
> and switch, the dealer had long since sold out and Cannondale weren't
> making any more...
It's a very strange brown colour. If I was being unkind I'd call it
muddy puddle brown, a bit kinder would be 'tea' brown. However, it
has met with universal approval and even I, an aesthetic ludite, find
the colour very pleasing. The picks don't quite do it justice as the
lacquer/gloss it what takes it from 'ughh' to 'nice!'.
> 2. Where are the mudflaps? Or do you have the long mudguards in store
> somewhere to use in the winter? If you're planning on splashing out --
> heh-heh! -- on Brooks mudflaps to match your saddle, be sure to check
> the size first: once fitted they're not very long.
Never thought about mudflaps. I find the SKS mudguards long enough,
but now you mention it, the outgoing commuter had little shorty
mudguards on it. Hmmmm....10 squids...
Dave Larrington
Tosspot <Frank...@esa.int> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us:
> landotter wrote:
>> I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that
>> distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay
>> bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great
>> for this.
>
> Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying
> around. Many thanks for that.
Here's my lower mudguard mounting:
http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/images/depravo/Build_13.jpg
Long bolt and spacers which crept out of a box in the Sheds.
And the upper:
http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/images/depravo/Build_12.jpg
Lightly sawn-down belt clip from a Cateye rear light.
--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
AS YOU WILL SEE.
Jay
> Tosspot wrote:
> > Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small
> > issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some
> > single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
>
> > So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic
> > for answering many fuckwitted questions.
>
> >http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
>
> > I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the
> > Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs
> > for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including
> > forks was attractive.
>
> > The Alfine package came from
>
> > Post Moderne Bracer Seat Post 40
> > Rim Tape 5
> > Saddle (B17 Pro) 60
> > Sigma BC906 Cycle Computer 15
> > SKS Mudguards 15
> > Spokes (72) 25
> > Topeak Super Tourist Rack 25
> > Point Stem 20
> > DT Swiss TK 7.1 Rims (pair) 100
> > A2Z Center Lock Kit 15
> > Topeak RX Trunkbag EX 25
> > Miscellaneous 100
> > 1490
>
> I did not understand the cable conflict with trekker bars:http://www.yellowjersey.org/SANRAD8.JPG
>
> One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they
> seem pretty straightforward. Did I miss something?
>
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Dear Andrew
Just wondering; how many bikes have been run over by cars or trucks on
the street in front of your shop?
The people & photographers don't count, they're not as important as
bikes :-o
Tom Sherman °_°
>> I did not understand the cable conflict with trekker bars:http://www.yellowjersey.org/SANRAD8.JPG
>>
>> One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they
>> seem pretty straightforward. Did I miss something?
>
>
> Just wondering; how many bikes have been run over by cars or trucks on
> the street in front of your shop?
> The people & photographers don't count, they're not as important as
> bikes :-o
Private vehicles are not allowed on State Street unless they have a
delivery permit. I disagree with Andrew about the danger of the buses,
since I had a relative hit by a Madison Metro bus doing a right turn on red.
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.
Mark Williams
> Try as I might, I couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars
> were used instead. Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a
> bar bag. An annoying setback.
I have a standard Klikfix bracket which takes an Ortlieb bar bag on my
riser bars with cable runs not wildly different to yours. The range
of positions for the brake levers is limited by this arrangement, but
you might be prepared to put up with this in exchange for the use of
the bar bag. If not, an extended bracket would possibly obviate this
problem.
--
Mark
Tosspot
Yep, I'm using 4-finger brakes, so they need to go a faor way
in-board. I might go back and look at an extended bracket, I never
though of it at the time.