I have been googling, and talking to the LBS about this and I just
wandered if any of you have some ideas on the best way to proceed.
I have a 1990 Peugeot with a Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed hub and 650B
wheels. I am happy with the gearing of 3rd and 2nd, but first just isn't
low enough for the hills around here. Obviously a bigger sprocket is an
easy fix, but then I would loose the top end.
I have looked at the idea of a new hub, such as the Shimano 8 speed, but
this would require spreading 114mm the drop-outs. I know that Sturmey
Archer make a 5 speed unit which is a drop-in replacement but I am
concerned that the increase in range will not be enough.
Is it possible to swap the single chainring at the front for a double?
Would this be a simpler or cheaper solution?
I've had this bike since new, it's still very tidy and I'm quite attached
to it. I fancy the idea of doing a short tour next summer but a granny
gear would be essential.
Thanks in advance for your ideas.
Andrew
Adding a double chainring is technically not a problem. You may wish
to change your crank length anyway, in which case a double chainset
can be substituted. The problem arises however that you will need to
work out in advance whether you can get all your optimal gear ratios
with the new chainset as supplied and probably a new rear sprocket. If
you cant, you'll have to add the cost of an additional new ring.
Other equipment needed will be a front derailler and control(probably
handlebar) and a chain tensioner. Whether or not it is financially
viable is up to you. It may give you a preferable set of gear ratios
to a new hub. There are ways to add an aditional chainring to a
single chainwheel setup. It's not a gargantuan task.
Brompton have a twin sprocket at the back to make a 6 speed. I'd say that
would be a better idea than a double chainring.
Either way you need a chain tensioner.
> > Is it possible to swap the single chainring at the front for a double?
> > Would this be a simpler or cheaper solution?
>
> Brompton have a twin sprocket at the back to make a 6 speed. I'd say that
> would be a better idea than a double chainring.
>
> Either way you need a chain tensioner.
which in this case would be a steel derailler with inbuilt hanger. Is
a twin sprocket freely available for an AW?
You probably could use a Cyclo converter. Good luck finding one.
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/detail.php?id=316
Stephen Bauman
Stephen Bauman wrote:
> You probably could use a Cyclo converter. Good luck finding one.
> http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/detail.php?id=316
Yes, sold new for $7, rare now. A modern analog is easily
fabricated:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/SPORTS05.JPG
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
650B, ugh. French threading? If so, spend no money on your bike.
Just ride it until it has a show-stopping problem, then get a bike
with supportable threading and wheels. If your bike has a 1-3/8"-24
bottom bracket shell, then it's worth keeping.
One or maybe two annoying idiosyncrasies are tolerable in any given
bike. French threaded bikes and 26tpi Raleighs are really hard to
justify.
> I've had this bike since new, it's still very tidy and I'm quite attached
> to it.
Sorry to hear that.
Chalo
How do you attach a stack of sprockets to a three-spline carrier?
The commercial modern version is the SRAM Dual Drive hub. You could
even put two or three sprockets on it instead of eight or nine, if you
were feeling atavistic.
Chalo
Two beveled Sturmey cogs back to back with 1/8 chain or two
Shimano UG sprockets with every other spline removed and
3/32 chain. It isn't complex.
Well, if you want more than two it is I suppose
<snip>
>
> The commercial modern version is the SRAM Dual Drive hub. You could
> even put two or three sprockets on it instead of eight or nine, if you
> were feeling atavistic.
>
The original design criterion calls for not increasing the rear width of
the frame (114 mm). The SRAM Dual Drive is 135 mm wide.
Stephen Bauman
To me, trying to keep a Fwench frame with contrarian wheels, while
being averse to respacing it, recalls the Biblical proverb about
straining at a gnat but swallowing a camel. But I wasn't suggesting
the Dual Drive as a solution for the OP-- only identifying it as a
modern extension of the 3x3 Sturmey Archer AW concept.
Chalo
> Stephen Bauman wrote:
>> The original design criterion calls for not increasing the rear width of
>> the frame (114 mm). The SRAM Dual Drive is 135 mm wide.
Chalo wrote:
> To me, trying to keep a Fwench frame with contrarian wheels, while
> being averse to respacing it, recalls the Biblical proverb about
> straining at a gnat but swallowing a camel. But I wasn't suggesting
> the Dual Drive as a solution for the OP-- only identifying it as a
> modern extension of the 3x3 Sturmey Archer AW concept.
Don't know what exactly he has since Peugeot closed before
1990, but if it's a VX-40 they are so cool as to bear some
effort.
Are (or where) there any splined freewheel sprockets of that radius?
I feel inclined to follow the multiple chainring route. I'll let you know
how it goes. It would be great to celebrate the 20th year of this bike
with its first proper ride.
Andrew
While I don't have a bicycle shop, I do have a rather absurdly
large collection of splined freewheel sprockets (for a fixed-
gear rider), and nothing in the box is even close to SA size.
Coincidentally, does anyone know of a good use for a metric
assload of loose malliard, atom, suntour freewheel sprockets?
Ninja stars? Drinks coasters?
Kid brother put a tripple chainring on his old CCM 3 speed Sturmy
Archer equipped bike back in the late seventies. A rear derailier was
used as a chain tensioner and he had 9 speeds available. Worked VERY
well.
Wind chimes for really breezey days?
eBay for the poor bastards still running that stuff because they want to keep it
original.
--
Oh damn. There's that annoying blog. Again. http://dumbbikeblog.blogspot.com
That's an incredibly clever and useful enhancement for an old Sturmey
Archer AW.
But... seventy-five quid? Wow. <cough>
Chalo
Weld them together to make a garden table top. Take a grinder around
the perimeter to make it a bit safer.
well, yeah, but if you really want something and it is functional for
you regularly....it would be way harder than 75 quids worth to make
your own.
and 75 quids where I live ain't worth nearly what they used to be.
USDs neither...
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
My thoughts, too.
Some years ago, I was able to find a threaded driver for a Sturmey-
Archer in a bike shop that saves old parts and likes keeping bikes on
the road. (My kind of place.) Same as that Dacon product, but the
right side is threaded to take a standard freewheel. I think it cost
me $5, used.
- Frank Krygowski
<snip>
> Florian Schlumpf has the solution to your inadequate gearing range:
> <http://www.schlumpf.ch/antriebe_engl.htm>.
Did you check the prices?
Stephen Bauman
> Stephen Bauman wrote:
>> Did you check the prices?
Tom Sherman �_� wrote:
> Typical for Swiss made precision mechanical devices, no?
compare!
http://www.cjbalm.com/watches/watch316.htm
One of the unheralded benefits is how much faster you'll climb with a
lighter wallet.
I was especially amused by the prospect of someone paying over 1400
clams for a 2-speed unicycle hub. That makes the Rohloff Speedhub
seem downright economical by comparison.
Chalo