My brother recently bought a second-hand Klein hardtail from
Mend-A-Bike in Fulham, London. Included in the package was a 2-3 year
old Rockshox Judy Race. Unfortunately, it appears that the forks has
been taken off another bike, one with a much shorter headtube - the
steerer is way too short, in fact it barely clears the headtube. To
hold the forks on the frame they have fitted a device that clamps to
the steerer and which is threaded such that the lower half can be
unscrewed from the clamp at the top to compress the head bearings, and
then they have fitted a quill type extension into the steerer (the
type that allows threaded headset to be run with an ahead stem), to
which a standard ahead type stem is fitted. It's a jury rigged affair
that is giving him heaps of trouble.
He's been back to Mend-A-Bike, but they've insisted that the system
they've put in place will work if set up correctly and that there is
no way to replace the steerer on this fork. He's going to go back on
Monday after a frustrating ride today (had to tighten/adjust the
headset many times), but I suspect that the best they'll offer is
another, much lower spec fork - he loves this one and wants to hang
onto it if at all possible...
Is it possible to replace the steerer on an old Judy Race (preferably
without replacing the crown and stanchions at the same time)? If so,
I presume I need to speak to Madison (UK distributors) - is there
anyone else worth contacting? Lastly, is there any other than a
replacement steerer which will help to sort this out?
Thanks in advance for the help - Adam...
That having been said, I recently set up a bike with a YST aheadset
copy like you have expressly to get a ten inch tall quill stem (Swan
type) in place for the rider, who's commuted on it since last July
without incident.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FISHBAR.JPG
If the only issue you have is adjusting the headset, try this:
Lube every thread and tighten the two parts together.
Lube bearings and place seals correctly.
Slide top assembly down until it hits the bearing and lock the setscrew
for the top part.
Assemble the stem and any other parts and check the headset
adjustement on the floor by holding the front brake and rocking the bike
front to back.
Turn the headset adjustment down until play is gone and lock it in position
with the setscrew on the side.
Hopefully that will do it. If not, then retun for further consultation with
the seller as something is wrong.
If the headset is not adjusted it's your problem but if it _cannot_ be
adjusted it may be the seller's problem, IMHO.
--
Andrew Muzi
http://www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April 1971
Hi Andrew,
-8<- snippage ->8-
> There is some grey area here about the obligation of the seller in a used
> bike transaction. Normally they are "as is" unless you have both agreed
> otherwise..
In this country, caveat emptor only applies to private sales and even
though the bike was second-hand they are obliged to resolve the issue
on the grounds that it affects the bike's fitness for purpose...
However, I'm not expecting them to replace the fork but, personally,
I'm not happy with the solution they have used, especially for a
mountain bike being used by a hard-riding 95kg rider...
> That having been said, I recently set up a bike with a YST aheadset
> copy like you have expressly to get a ten inch tall quill stem (Swan
> type) in place for the rider, who's commuted on it since last July
> without incident.
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FISHBAR.JPG
It looks like the same arrangement, although it's a little difficult
to tell...
> If the only issue you have is adjusting the headset, try this:
> Lube every thread and tighten the two parts together.
> Lube bearings and place seals correctly.
> Slide top assembly down until it hits the bearing and lock the setscrew
> for the top part.
> Assemble the stem and any other parts and check the headset
> adjustement on the floor by holding the front brake and rocking the bike
> front to back.
> Turn the headset adjustment down until play is gone and lock it in position
> with the setscrew on the side.
The problem we're having is that the top clamp keeps sliding up the
steerer, releasing the compression on the bearings. This is after
applying all the torque that I could to the locknut - I'm wary about
applying any more to a bolt so small.
> Hopefully that will do it. If not, then retun for further consultation with
> the seller as something is wrong.
>
> If the headset is not adjusted it's your problem but if it _cannot_ be
> adjusted it may be the seller's problem, IMHO.
We can adjust it, but we had to do so six times, in the space of a
five hour ride, yesterday. At that rate, the head bearings will be
knackered in no time...
Thanks for the advice - Adam...
There certainly is a way to replace the steerer; it is a press fit and any
shop should be able to order you a new one and have it replaced. I think
that is your only real good solution.
> There certainly is a way to replace the steerer; it is a press fit and any
> shop should be able to order you a new one and have it replaced. I think
> that is your only real good solution.
I don't think Judy steerers are available alone, without the crown, and the
stanchions. The earlier forks had pinch bolts to hold the stanchions, while
the later ones had steerer, crown, and stanchions pressed and bonded into
one unit. So while it's theoretically possible for a good machinist to
press in a new steerer, you'd have a hard time finding the part.
Crown/steerer/stanchion assemblies sell for around $150, give or take $20.
At that rate, it's advisable to just replace the fork. I see Judies on sale
*really cheap* all the time.
Judies (and SIDs) are quite modular, with all models sharing at least some
parts. I've lost track of which model has which innards, but I'm pretty
sure all crown/steerer/stanchion assemblies fit all forks. Someone *please*
correct me if I'm wrong... Anyway, you could probably find a cheap Judy or
SID, either new or used, and swap out some of the parts. Just be wary of
worn stanchions.
Matt O.
Hi All,
Just an update on what I've found out:
RockShox only supply what they call a 'SCU' - Steerer Crown Unit.
Apparently, the stanchions can be removed...
> Crown/steerer/stanchion assemblies sell for around $150, give or take $20.
Hmm, over here the SRP is £165 (yes, that's right - around 235 of your
American dollars) for just the 'SCU'...
> At that rate, it's advisable to just replace the fork. I see Judies on sale
> *really cheap* all the time.
I agree (and I always have done) that a replacement fork is the way to
go. It's just that my brother *really* wanted to keep his Judys.
Luckily, I've persuaded him to go for a Marzocchi instead...
Accordingly to RS, you can't do it. They say it's a one time press fit.
Of course I didn't care for that and my LFB (local frame builder) got a
new tube inserted, using some sort of electrical vice.
Just to find out that for one time, RS was right. After some miles and
one small hit the steerer tube was developing some play.
On the other way, I now have a 2000's marz Z4, in which the steerer tube
is also press fitted, and they say that it can be replaced... Go
figure..
--
Rodolfo Barros
Lisbon-Portugal
________________________________
I don't have a signature.
I don't know how to make one.
You'd be a foul to have a signature.
I know, ridiculous, isn't it? I've recently moved my 99 Z2 lights
(with a press-fit/bonded steerer) to a frame with a much longer
headtube, and the importers changed the steerer (and upgraded it to
Easton) without any problems... (Big thmbs up for Windwave, UK
Marzocchi importers - great service, low price and damn nice on the
phone too!)
Cheers - Adam...