Trek 1000 specs? (2000 model year)
Aodhan
Looking at buying a 2000 model year Trek 1000 (Yellow frame with blue
bar wrapping) from craigslist, and can't find the component group.
I've found a few reviews that say the FD and RD need to be replaced,
but nothing that shows what each component is. (Trek site only goes
back to 2003. Ridiculous in light of todays database capabilities)
It comes with a cycleops trainer, which he says he broke the handle to
and can't get the bike off of it. I don't think that should be too
hard to remove.
The rims look anodized blue in the pics, are those aftermarket? It
also has a computer and tri/aero bars.
Getting it all for $300, hopefully I can get it off the trainer and
still keep the trainer useable.
John
Michael Johnson
landotter
> Hey all-
>
> Looking at buying a 2000 model year Trek 1000 (Yellow frame with blue
> bar wrapping) from craigslist, and can't find the component group.
> I've found a few reviews that say the FD and RD need to be replaced,
> but nothing that shows what each component is.
That's just BS snob talk. It has Sora mechs, which are fine. When they
develop bushing play, pick up whatever's on sale. 8 speed kit. Not
fussy and spares are cheap.
> (Trek site only goes
> back to 2003. Ridiculous in light of todays database capabilities)
>
> It comes with a cycleops trainer, which he says he broke the handle to
> and can't get the bike off of it. I don't think that should be too
> hard to remove.
>
> The rims look anodized blue in the pics, are those aftermarket? It
> also has a computer and tri/aero bars.
>
> Getting it all for $300, hopefully I can get it off the trainer and
> still keep the trainer useable.
>
A fair price *if* the bike is pretty pristine.
Crescentius Vespasianus
---------------
Have that bike, even rode it this morning. Has 25,000 miles on it,
the frame is good, cro-moly fork, with more slack geometry. Had to
replace soro stuff at 15,000 miles, made it a 105 9sp. The vuelta
wheels are crap, replaced them with open pro's. Handlebar is too
heavy, and too narrow, more crap you have to replace. Do all of that
and you're up to bike really costing $900, so you might want to
consider that. I did it gradually over time, and I like the bike, but
it is a harsh ride, but I'm use to it. I use it as a commuter, as
it's a pretty tough bike.
Aodhan
wrote:
Thanks. I had a custom trek in the late 80's when I was racing in
college and doing triathlons. Been off bikes for about 15 years (Doing
martial arts), and I miss it. I know it's an entry level, and that
it's probably going to be a bit harsh, but I don't know how intensely
I'll get back into it, and if I do, I can upgrade components and stuff
around here fairly inexpensively. (Brother in law competes semi-pro in
BMX street stunt, and has a lot of connections). This is mostly a bike
that I can use and see if I want to get back to riding semi seriously
again.
John
landotter
wrote:
> On Dec 14, 8:29 am, Aodhan <suited.ja...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hey all-
>
> > Looking at buying a 2000 model year Trek 1000 (Yellow frame with blue
> > bar wrapping) from craigslist, and can't find the component group.
> > I've found a few reviews that say the FD and RD need to be replaced,
> > but nothing that shows what each component is. (Trek site only goes
> > back to 2003. Ridiculous in light of todays database capabilities)
>
> > It comes with a cycleops trainer, which he says he broke the handle to
> > and can't get the bike off of it. I don't think that should be too
> > hard to remove.
>
> > The rims look anodized blue in the pics, are those aftermarket? It
> > also has a computer and tri/aero bars.
>
> > Getting it all for $300, hopefully I can get it off the trainer and
> > still keep the trainer useable.
>
> > John
>
> ---------------
> Have that bike, even rode it this morning. Has 25,000 miles on it,
> the frame is good, cro-moly fork, with more slack geometry. Had to
> replace soro stuff at 15,000 miles, made it a 105 9sp. The vuelta
> wheels are crap, replaced them with open pro's. Handlebar is too
> heavy, and too narrow, more crap you have to replace. Do all of that
> and you're up to bike really costing $900, so you might want to
> consider that.
Dialing in the wheels is free. Gimme pretty much any 32H wheel and I
can make it stay happy till the rims wear out. Add some 25-28mm tires
to plush out the ride. $50 gets you top quality chain and cassette
when they wear out, as 8 speed is cheap. When the rear mech goes, a
new Sora's $20. This is the beauty of sticking with kit a couple
generations from the top end. Handlebars are a personal preference.
The OP might like them narrow.
Throwing $600 at something that's perfectly decent already seems
pretty foolish, especially for a recreational rider.
Crescentius Vespasianus
the hubs on the vueltas are crap, and
the spokes pop. I wouldn't waste 5
minutes on those wheels. You can find
cheap wheels, I just prefer Open Pros
because I've had good luck with them,
and with good shimano hubs. The
handlebar is a must replacement, but
like I said the sora shifters and rd
wore out. I kept the sora fd. Now I
could of replaced it all with sora, but
the 9sp stuff at the time was about the
same price, so that's why I went that way.