Campag chainring bolt stripped
Rik O'Shea
Help me understand what I did wrong.
I was in the process of replacing a chainring on a Campag Record
Chainset - a new 10-s version - there's a digram of it in the
catalogue http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/spares04_A.pdf
As with all my training bikes I was replacing a 53 for a 51 chainring.
It's
a job I've carried out before on Shimano chainsets without any
problems.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on the chainring bolts. I loosened the
four outward facing ones ok; they were VERY tight. When I tried
loosening the inward facing chainring bolt (part FC-RE102), the
non-standard one that screws the chainring to the crankarm, it
stripped. FUCK, if it was a normal chainring bolt I could just drill
it out, but this one screws into the crankarm. Anyway tring to salvage
a bad situation, I carefully drilled this bolt but am left with a
small piece in the crankarm. I replaced this chainring bolt with a
normal one, but have lost the benefit of having the chainrings secured
to the crankarm - anything else I can do here ?
Given that chainrings on top-end chainsets are supposed to be
replaceable, and that I worked very carefully, what did I do wrong ?
Thanks in advance.
Qui si parla Campagnolo
replaceable, and that I worked very carefully, what did I do wrong ? >><BR><BR>
Nothing...we have had this problem but have been able to get the remnant out.
Try using an easy out. Then grasso on the threads. WE take all the bolts out
when new and grease them.
Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
Ronald
> replaceable, and that I worked very carefully, what did I do wrong ?
>><BR><BR>
>
> Nothing...we have had this problem but have been able to get the
remnant out.
> Try using an easy out. Then grasso on the threads. WE take all the
bolts out
> when new and grease them.
I think it's the only part on the bike that really can be improved,
maybe by adding some sort of profile to the chainrings so you don't
have to worry about the back part turning while turning the outside
part. Those suckers always seem glued together and it's hard to get a
good grip. The general tool for it like ParkTool's CNW-1 (
http://www.parktool.com/tools/CNW_1.shtml) or Shimano's equivalent
tool also suck cause you always come one hand short using it and it's
easy to strip the groove at the back of the chainring. I'm going to
try the Cyclus tool now
(http://www.roseversand.de/rose_main.cfm?KAT_ID=&PRD_ID=17134&spr_id=2
&MID=0&CID=175), looks like the best tool/design for the job.
"Qui si parla Campagnolo " <vecc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040402084939...@mb-m15.aol.com...
A Muzi
-snip-
> I was in the process of replacing a chainring on a Campag Record
> Chainset - a new 10-s version - there's a digram of it in the
> catalogue http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/spares04_A.pdf
> I sprayed some penetrating oil on the chainring bolts. I loosened the
> four outward facing ones ok; they were VERY tight. When I tried
> loosening the inward facing chainring bolt (part FC-RE102), the
> non-standard one that screws the chainring to the crankarm, it
> stripped. FUCK, if it was a normal chainring bolt I could just drill
> it out, but this one screws into the crankarm. Anyway tring to salvage
> a bad situation, I carefully drilled this bolt but am left with a
> small piece in the crankarm. I replaced this chainring bolt with a
> normal one, but have lost the benefit of having the chainrings secured
> to the crankarm - anything else I can do here ?
That bolt, like most new chainring bolts, arrives dry and
tight. Except this one is aluminum. It might have been
better to prep it, and the other four, with grease when the
crank was first put in service, rather that wait for the
inevitable oxidation to make it more difficult.
Then again, it might have been overtorqued dry when
received. (IOW, it may not be your fault but you can't know
that)
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Jeff Starr
>
> I think it's the only part on the bike that really can be improved,
> maybe by adding some sort of profile to the chainrings so you don't
> have to worry about the back part turning while turning the outside
> part. Those suckers always seem glued together and it's hard to get a
> good grip. The general tool for it like ParkTool's CNW-1 (
> http://www.parktool.com/tools/CNW_1.shtml) or Shimano's equivalent
> tool also suck cause you always come one hand short using it and it's
> easy to strip the groove at the back of the chainring. I'm going to
> try the Cyclus tool now
> (http://www.roseversand.de/rose_main.cfm?KAT_ID=&PRD_ID=17134&spr_id=2
> &MID=0&CID=175), looks like the best tool/design for the job.
>
Hi, the Cyclus tool looks interesting, are they available in the USA?
I did a search on them and only came up with European dealers.
Thank you,
Jeff
Rik O'Shea
facing chainring bolt (part FC-RE102) - a chainring bolt for a triple
worked as a good substitute for this.
vecc...@aol.com (Qui si parla Campagnolo ) wrote in message news:<20040402084939...@mb-m15.aol.com>...