On 04/06/13 09:22, Jay Beattie wrote:
> I've broken aluminum, too -- but my first generation Cannondale "Black
> Lightning" lasted for over 20 years and tens of thousands of miles --
> many of them racing. It was stiffer and lighter than any of my
> Columbus or Reynolds frames, and it lasted a decade longer. Later
> Cannondales were failure prone, and for me, primarily at the rear drop
> outs or near the rear drop outs. Nothing catastrophic. I'm now riding
> a CAAD 9 as a free replacement. I'm a CAAD behind current production,
> and its not CF, but it is a pretty swanky frame.
This is basically in line with what one of the references I linked to
earlier said. Al frames that are built to last have generously
oversized tubes and consequently are exceedingly stiff - some say harsh.
The extreme stiffness limits how much the tubes actually bend during
use, which in turn reduces stress and improves durability.
Back in the 80's and 90's while steel was on its way out and everyone
wanted a new fangled Al frame, steel couldn't compete on weight (still
can't), and consequently the tube wall thickness came down in an attempt
to remain competitive on weight, while flexibility increased and
durability decreased. You broke frames in this era I believe, as did my
brother.
Today you can get double oversize steel tubes with even thinner walls
than those from your last steel frame, that are still not as light as
Al, but very stiff compared to the old 1" tubes and anything Al. It's
hard to compare apples with tomatoes.
> In fact, I was riding this weekend and thinking how really plush it
> rides, but that could be the saddle or a number of other things. The
> most noticeable thing about the bike is that it is far more quiet than
> it was about a month ago. I switched to 10sp STI and put the rattly
> 9sp levers on my son's bike. I got some good, straight-cut headset
> spacers which remedied the clunking in the front end, and I switched
> out my BB30 for a different kludge to accommodate my Shimano Ultegra
> crank. I popped in some Endura BB30 bearings and used the Wheels MFG
> spacers. No more press-fit screw-though kludge, and the creaking is
> gone . . . for now.
My bike was a bit harsh on rough chip sealed roads. Stiff aero rims,
stiff frame and no real comfort in the seat. I put a 25mm tyre on the
back, and the ride is very much more plush. I've won two races and
finished second out of three starts since. For one of the races I won,
I rode to the start and raced with my dynamo on the bike, then rode
home. That got a few people talking.
> The only problem I encountered last weekend was that my pedal fell
> apart while I was riding in the outskirts of suburbia on my way home.
> I bought some half-priced Keo Max 2 pedals to replace some old,
> smaller platform Keos in an effort to stabilize my left ankle (both of
> my ankles have been surgically repaired and tend to roll). The
> f****** pedal literally came off the spindle. I stopped and plucked
> the platform off my cleat and bang it back on to the spindle. The
> sales guys say that it was a fluke, and I'll take their word for it
> and get a replacement rather than a credit. The larger platform was
> modestly helpful.
I use Keo Max 2 pedals also. I imagine they could be a little flimsy
for a bigger and stronger rider, but are so much lighter and cheaper
than the DA pedals I had before, there's no going back for me.
I was getting a slight squeak from the left cleat after some months
(maybe a year?) since putting new cleats on. I could see the cleat
surface had worn down a little where it contacts the SS plate on the
pedal. I drilled a few blind holes in the cleat and bulked up the
surface with some Plastibond. No squeaks or unwanted movement and the
Plastibond seems to be wearing well. I.e. wearing slowly.
http://www.selleys.com.au/trade/building-products/fillers-and-gap-fillers/plasti-bond-heavy-duty
--
JS