Spoke Prep Alternatives?
DataServ
by and want to get my wheel rebuilt by this weekend. I have on hand - Phil
Wood tenacious oil, Tri-flow, Pedro's Road, WD-40. Will any of these do the
job?
Thanks
Jeff
data...@access.digex.net
Mike DeMicco
data...@access1.digex.net (DataServ) writes:
> What else can be used besides Wheelsmith Spoke Prep? I can't find any close
> by and want to get my wheel rebuilt by this weekend. I have on hand - Phil
> Wood tenacious oil, Tri-flow, Pedro's Road, WD-40. Will any of these do the
> job?
Those items will lube the threads, but not act as a thread locking
compound. Supposedly linseed oil works (hardens after it drys) and
weak Locktite (222 - purple), if you can find it anywhere. I wouldn't
use medium Locktite (242) because the nipples may be hard to turn in
subsequent truing operations.
Spoke prep is the best, I believe, because it acts both as a lubricant
and as a thread locking compound, and retruings are no problem.
_________________________________________________________
Opinions expressed here are my own and not my employer's.
Mike De Micco <demi...@llnl.gov>
Mark W. Sprague
(DataServ) wrote:
> What else can be used besides Wheelsmith Spoke Prep? I can't find any close
> by and want to get my wheel rebuilt by this weekend. I have on hand - Phil
> Wood tenacious oil, Tri-flow, Pedro's Road, WD-40. Will any of these do the
> job?
I have a friend that uses Phil Wood tenacious oil instead of Spoke Prep.
He claims that it is more waterproof. Personally, I like Spoke Prep, but
if it is not available tenacious oil will work.
-Mark Sprague
Eric Geoffrey Vann
data...@access1.digex.net writes:
>What else can be used besides Wheelsmith Spoke Prep? I can't find any
close
>by and want to get my wheel rebuilt by this weekend. I have on hand -
Phil
>Wood tenacious oil, Tri-flow, Pedro's Road, WD-40. Will any of these do
the
>job?
I use Tri-Flow for every wheel I've ever built. Personally, I have seen
no problems resulting from using the Tri-Flow.
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Mark Chandler
>In article <30ek4e$8...@access1.digex.net> DataServ,
>data...@access1.digex.net writes:
>>What else can be used besides Wheelsmith Spoke Prep? I can't find any
>close
>>by and want to get my wheel rebuilt by this weekend. I have on hand -
>Phil
>>Wood tenacious oil, Tri-flow, Pedro's Road, WD-40. Will any of these do
>the
>>job?
>I use Tri-Flow for every wheel I've ever built. Personally, I have seen
>no problems resulting from using the Tri-Flow.
My latest wheels where built up with Winkel Wheel's Spoke Dust. As
the name implies, it's a powder rather than a liquid/gel. So far,
the wheels have given me no problems. Winkel Wheel did the work,
BTW.
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| Mark Chandler Novell, Inc. 510/975-4522 |
| Reply to chan...@wc.novell.com or cross...@aol.com |
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| The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's. |
William Kellagher
Don't bother with the spoke prep. You don't need it. Just put a dab of any of the
lubes you mention above in each spoke socket on the rim, and make sure the spokes
are really tight. See Jobst's book for details.
Bill Kellagher "I've got a Gibson without a case,
Boulder Colorado but I can't get that even tanned
America's Bicycling Theme Park look on my face" -- Pete
******* Speaking for myself, not StorageTek ******
Edward Joseph Kearns
up my wheels but the oil slowly weeped out of the threads for about a month.
This made them collect a ton of dirt for a while.
I also had to re-tension and true them up again a couple of times more than
usual. Next time I'm going to try and build them dry. No prep or oil.
Ed Kearns BBN Systems & Technologies Cambridge,MA eke...@bbn.com
Mike DeMicco
eke...@bbn.com (Edward Joseph Kearns) writes:
> Next time I'm going to try and build them dry.
If you build them dry, you'll end up with spoke wind-up problems as you
try to get the tension up during the wheel build, and risk rounding off
the spoke nipples. In fact, you may end up with a wheel where the
spoke tension is not high enough for long life, and truing problems
later as the nipples/spoke threads corrode.
William Kellagher
Baloney!!
Lubrication and/or locking compounds are completely unnecessary for the threads
on stainless steel spokes. The only thing you need to lubricate is the place
where the nipples seat into the rim so that you can get the tension high enough.
Where is Jobst when we need him to debunk the bunk?
Todd Ourston
: I also had to re-tension and true them up again a couple of times more than
: usual. Next time I'm going to try and build them dry. No prep or oil.
That will probably make tensioning and truing your wheels much more
difficult due to the increased friction. In fact, if you use aluminum
nipples, you will probably have some very unpleasant corrosion problems
over time.
Of course, if you go ahead with your proposed experiment, I hope you will
update us once in a while on what actually happens.
Todd Ourston
>Baloney!!
>
>Lubrication and/or locking compounds are completely unnecessary for the
>threads on stainless steel spokes. The only thing you need to lubricate
>is the place where the nipples seat into the rim so that you can get the
>tension high enough.
>
>Where is Jobst when we need him to debunk the bunk?
"When a spoke nipple is turned, it tends to twist the spoke.
This torque, the windup torque on the spoke, has two components,
thread ramp and friction. The steepness of the thread is
function (sic) of the thread pitch and the thread diameter. It
resists spoke tightening and helps loosening, and you can't do
anything about it. The friction component is dependent only on
thread diameter and lubrication, and it can be reduced
significantly by proper lubrication."
Jobst Brandt, _the Bicycle Wheel_, 2d ed. (Menlo Park, CA: Avocet,
Inc., 1988), p. 53.
"Make sure that the spokes of each set are the same length
within a milimeter. Arrange them with their heads at the same
end. . . . Oil the threads of the whole bunch with motor oil or
medium weight machine oil. After wiping off the excess oil,
place the spokes where they will be handy. Put the nipples in
a bowl where you can pick them up easily. Prepare a comfortable
seat in a well-lighted work area."
Ibid., p. 89.
: Bill Kellagher "I've got a Gibson without a case,
William Kellagher
I still don't think it's necessary to lube the threads, since I never do it,
and never have trouble with spoke wind-up, and don't round off any nipples. I find that I DO need to lube where the spoke nipples meet the rim.
al
> Lubrication and/or locking compounds are completely unnecessary for
> the threads on stainless steel spokes.
I just started building wheels last year so I'm no specialist. But I go
according to Jobst's book and he clearly mentions oiling the threads. Even
without this mention my intuition, from having worked in car mechanics and
plumbing, would have told me to oil them anyhow.
Last year I used Phil's Tenacious Oil, and last week, for the first wheel this
year, I used some Spoke Prep given to me by friendly Joe Mandacini, expert
framebuilder who runs a tiny little bike shop in Lachine (near Montreal). Using
only low-tech components (Alivio freehub, DT double-butted spokes, Alesa rim)
this wheelbuilding was truly a pleasure.
I wouldn't think this easiness was derived from using Spoke Prep but I may say
that I prefer using that stuff and leave Phil's Oil for the nipple casings
(where they touch the rim).
If you have some SP, use it, if not, use some other lubricant. But at all
costs, I don't think it's a good idea to leave the threads of the spokes dry.
Alain a...@hexacom.com
==============================================
Colleen P. Doody
auto shops)? I've used this on a few wheels and have had no
problems. I seem to recall someone on the net recommending it
before, which is why I started using it. It's much cheaper
than spoke prep.
Colleen Doody
Edward Joseph Kearns
Actually, as has been kindly pointed out to me, I made an assumption that the
excessive oil was partly to blame for my needing to stress and re-tension, when
in fact it was much more likely that I just didn't tension the wheel enough to
begin with. It was my first rear wheel. My second wheel build, a front wheel,
had no such problem, and I also used a tiny amount of Phil's Tenacious Oil
on the spoke threads.
As another poster also mentioned, I used a Q-tip to apply a tiny bit of the same
oil to each grommeted nipple hole of my Mavic MA-40's.
For now I won't be building any wheels completely dry.
Happy wheel building!
Edzo