Ideas, suggestions????
Donald Pritchett <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net>...
1. Vinyl electrical tape.
2. Reflector tape.
Cinelli makes aproduct called "tape locks" or something like that, but I
found them to be a poor fit, and really didn't like the look. You can check
them out in Branford Bike's catalog.
In article <7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net>,
"Donald Pritchett" <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
> even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>
> Ideas, suggestions????
>
>
Andy Marchant-Shapiro / Schenectady, NY / NOTE:
frost314 is my spam-magnet address. If you want to reach me, take the
hyphen out of my last name and send mail to me: lastname at yahoo
dot com.
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Pete
Donald Pritchett <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net...
> What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
> even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>
> Ideas, suggestions????
Wrap the opposite way and you won't need any end tape at all, you might want to
apply a little glue to the first round to prevent it coming undone.
--
__________________________________
Please remove "X" from email address to reply.
Donald Pritchett wrote:
> What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
> even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>
> Ideas, suggestions????
Dorky, color coordinated vinyl tape that you can get at auto supply stores
(specifically. Pep Boys).
--
Regards
Brian
Tony Raven
Donald Pritchett <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net...
>What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
>even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>
>Ideas, suggestions????
>
Electrical tape, available in your choice of colors. Use scissors to
cut a clean edge, and lay the last inch or so down without stretching
to keep it from peeling up.
I recently found a roll of double-thick electrical tape at a supply
house, and that stuff works wonderfully.
Rick "The Cinelli stuff is worthless" Denney
>Donald Pritchett wrote:
>
>> What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
>> even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>>
>> Ideas, suggestions????
>
>Wrap the opposite way and you won't need any end tape at all, you might want to
>apply a little glue to the first round to prevent it coming undone.
This is the second post I've seen recommending this approach, but I
have to say that it's always been a mess when I've tried it. The tape
always rolls, because the hand is leaning on the exposed leading edge.
I found this to be true even in the old days when we used cotton
adhesive tape. I used electrical tape to finish the top even then.
Rick "Start at the bottom, wrapping up and out" Denney
Sergio
Pisa
That seems so much more of a bother than wrapping it in a few inches
of electrical tape. You have to mix the epoxy, apply it, hold the tape
in position, and then deal with the trash. And you'll spend a lot more
than the two or three cents that electrical tape costs. What do you
gain?
Rick "Keeping it simple" Denney
>On Tue, 30 Mar 1999 00:39:37 -0800, "Donald Pritchett"
><dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
>>What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
>>even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>>
>>Ideas, suggestions????
>>
>
>Electrical tape, available in your choice of colors. Use scissors to
>cut a clean edge, and lay the last inch or so down without stretching
>to keep it from peeling up.
>
>I recently found a roll of double-thick electrical tape at a supply
>house, and that stuff works wonderfully.
I don't like having any adhesive on my bars. Sooner or later something
comes unstuck in the heat and either unwinds or moves out of place and I
have exposed sticky stuff. Feh. So, Eric House taught me his trick,
using non-adhesive bar tape (he likes Benotto, I like Scott) and old inner
tubes.
Take off all the existing tape, and the brake levers. If your cables run
along the bar (under the tape), disconnect them from the levers. Don't
worry, you don't have to do this every time you renew the bar tape.
Get an old mountain-bike inner tube, one that fits snugly but not too
tightly onto your handlebar. Cut some 3-inch lengths, as neatly and
squarely as you can, and slide them onto the bar. The innermost piece on
each side should go about an inch beyond where the tape will end. The
other pieces go right behind it, and they must all wind up inboard of the
brake lever.
If you disconnected the cables from the levers, they go inside the pieces
of inner tube. Now you can reconnect the cables to the levers and mount
the levers back on the bars.
Now wrap your bar tape onto the bar, starting at the end of the drop and
wrapping in the normal manner until you get to where it should end. Use
scissors to cut it off on a long bevel so it makes a square end an inch or
so before the end of the inner tube. Now turn the inner tube back over
the end of the tape just like the top of a sock, and you're done. It
looks neat, won't come loose, and involves no gooey stuff.
The exposed rubber will deteriorate eventually from exposure to sunlight,
car exhaust, sweat, etc. When that happens, unroll it enough to free the
end of the tape and unwind the tape enough to expose the inboard inner
tube piece. Cut away the deteriorated rubber as neatly as possible, slide
the rubber inward, re-wrap, and re-fasten. Next time, you'll probably
need to cut that piece away entirely and slide up the next piece. I have
to go through this exercise maybe once a year, so it takes a long time
before the last of the rubber is used up; then it's back to the top,
removing the levers and installing new rubber.
Doing this is more fun and less hassle than it sounds like.
--
David Casseres
Exclaimer: Hey!
>
>I don't like having any adhesive on my bars. Sooner or later something
>comes unstuck in the heat and either unwinds or moves out of place and I
>have exposed sticky stuff. Feh. So, Eric House taught me his trick,
>using non-adhesive bar tape (he likes Benotto, I like Scott) and old inner
>tubes.
This is a neat trick, but in defense of electrical tape,
A) it doesn't need to come in contact with the bars, just the bar-tape;
B) it hasn't come unstuck in the heat of Texas summers so far.
I used to use Benotto myself. I gave up when I could only find it in pink
and brown. It took a little while to get used to the padded stuff, but I
like it fine now.
If only I could find those hand-stitched leather bar wraps...
Adam Rice | Be a part of the Tenth
Austin TX USA | International Japanese-English
adam...@crossroads.net | Translation Conference (IJET)
http://www.crossroads.net | http://www.ijet.org/ijet-10
> On Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:42:31 -0400, Chris Phillipo
> <Xcphi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> >Donald Pritchett wrote:
> >
> >> What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
> >> even the expensive handlebar wraps???
> >>
> >> Ideas, suggestions????
> >
> >Wrap the opposite way and you won't need any end tape at all, you might want to
> >apply a little glue to the first round to prevent it coming undone.
>
> This is the second post I've seen recommending this approach, but I
> have to say that it's always been a mess when I've tried it. The tape
> always rolls, because the hand is leaning on the exposed leading edge.
> I found this to be true even in the old days when we used cotton
> adhesive tape. I used electrical tape to finish the top even then.
>
> Rick "Start at the bottom, wrapping up and out" Denney
I find it only works well with cork tape and if glue or contact cement it used.
It's allot of trouble to go through just to keep the dorky tape off though.
I buy super glue in a little bottle that has a brush in the cap(like whiteout).
On a Cinelli bar with a center sleeve I didn't even use tape. I just tapered
the end of the tape to match the wrapping and glued the end in place. Looks
like the tape was wound right into the sleeve.
Pete Geurds
Pete Geurds
Tony Raven wrote:
> After trying lots of alternatives I've settled for heatshrink tubing
> available from any electronics outlet. It provides a smooth neat transition
> from the tape to the bar, isn't sticky, has no end to come unstuck in the
> wet or the heat, lasts for ages and holds it all together firmly. You need
> to cut of about an inch long length and slide it onto the handlebar before
> you start wrapping. After wrapping slide the heatshrink over the end of the
> tape and apply a hot air gun to shrink it to a tight fit. You can even get
> a range of colors from the better outlets otherwise the standard is black.
>
> Tony Raven
>
> Donald Pritchett <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net...
good luck.
Al
Butcher's twine (I stopped at 12 turns; apologies to
triskaidekaphiliacs) with a coat or three of shellac. Looks nice with
black tressostar (over an inner tube).
May not be gracefully removable, though.
Karl Frantz
Sterling, Massachusetts
-----------------------
Karl....@juno.com
Nick
Donald Pritchett <dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:7dpsql$q0u$2...@bgtnsc01.worldnet.att.net...
See: http://www.spectrum-cycles.com/mechanic.htm#Taping
Andy in Austin
>Your local marine supplier has wrap tape that won't stick to anything except
>itself. And with itself it just welds together. About $7 a roll instead of
>.99
>but it is non-sticky. And stays stuck. A sizable hardware store might have it
>too, I get mine at Canadian TIre, but that may not be an option for you
>
Sounds like the rubber tape I've used. Got it at Sears Hardware outlet. It
comes with a plastic separator strip because it sticks to itself and becomes a
solid piece of rubber. I remove it by cutting with a single-edged razor blade.
It's also great for making non-slip bushings for light and computer mounts.
Just build it up to a perfect fit.
Bill Yoder Harford County, MD USA
Ben
David Cásseres wrote in message ...
>In article
><B7CA3D8D0F55B803.CC0C6ED8...@library-proxy.airnews.n
et>,
>r...@odetics.com wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 30 Mar 1999 00:39:37 -0800, "Donald Pritchett"
>><dprit...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>>
>>>What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come
with
>>>even the expensive handlebar wraps???
>>>
>>>Ideas, suggestions????
>>>
>>
>>Electrical tape, available in your choice of colors. Use scissors to
>>cut a clean edge, and lay the last inch or so down without stretching
>>to keep it from peeling up.
>>
>>I recently found a roll of double-thick electrical tape at a supply
>>house, and that stuff works wonderfully.
>
>I don't like having any adhesive on my bars. Sooner or later something
>comes unstuck in the heat and either unwinds or moves out of place and I
>have exposed sticky stuff. Feh. So, Eric House taught me his trick,
>using non-adhesive bar tape (he likes Benotto, I like Scott) and old inner
>tubes.
>
Chris Phillipo wrote:
> Donald Pritchett wrote:
>
> > What to use in place of the dorky, never look right end tapes that come with
> > even the expensive handlebar wraps???
> >
> > Ideas, suggestions????
>
> Wrap the opposite way and you won't need any end tape at all, you might want to
> apply a little glue to the first round to prevent it coming undone.
Rather than glue, I use double sided adhesive tape at the start of the wrap. I
prefer to wrap bottom to top and really don't mind the finishing tape.
Here's another thought. Why not finish the wrap with pinstriping tape? You can
probably find some with flames on it or something else cute.
--
Regards
Brian
>Butcher's twine (I stopped at 12 turns; apologies to
>triskaidekaphiliacs) with a coat or three of shellac. Looks nice with
>black tressostar (over an inner tube).
>
>May not be gracefully removable, though.
And I thought a spot of glue was too much trouble. Apologies to my
Italian friend.
Rick "You guys have too much time on your hands" Denney
A couple of years ago, I decided I wanted a little more padding on my
handlebars so I got a piece of foam pipe insulation from the plumbing
department at Home Depot and put it under the cork wrap. I have larger hands
and like the feel of a little more bulk. The foam really reduces road
vibration and hand and shoulder fatique. The downside is that I had to use
two rolls of cork instead of just one. I'm sure it adds a little weight also,
but then I could always stand to loose a few pounds myself. I use colored
electrical tape but like the idea of shrink wrap.
"Gravity is all a matter of perspective."
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Or in a Boy Scout Handbook.
Enjoy,
Tom Granvold <thomas....@eng.sun.com>
I'd like to try this.
Just curious as to what size you get(diameter)?
11/4 or 11/2?
Thanks.
From my experience of using both in other applications I vote for the
heatshrink tubing but for anyone that cares the sailing stuff is called
self-amalgamating tape and a common brand name is Rig Wrap. It takes
weather and friction quite well. Try www.westmarine.com as a source.
Kurt
> From my experience of using both in other applications I vote for the
> heatshrink tubing but for anyone that cares the sailing stuff is called
> self-amalgamating tape and a common brand name is Rig Wrap. It takes
> weather and friction quite well. Try www.westmarine.com as a source.
I can also vouch for rigging tape. It stays stuck, that's for sure. It's
also great to wrap your chainstay, etc., because it forms itself around
complex curves very well. It's used to wrap sailboat rigging to protect
sails from chafing. White is the easiest color to find, but it comes in
other colors.
Matt O.
I always use black electrical tape.
stu
That's for sure. I vote for black electrical tape cuz black goes with
everything. I wish I had the time between studying, riding, working, and
spending quality time with my wife to do all this fancy stuff to my bikes
(the flipped over inner tube and heatshrink methods sound cool to me, I
don't know about that twine stuff, though).
Greg