its second hand but without many signs of use, ie like new!
however, brakes are very weak, and if i apply excessive force, there
comes metallic sound ..
?
z
Roller brakes can make a bit of noise, especially if they need to be
serviced. They stop just great in my experience, though you may need
to tweak the cable routing to get the smoothest pull.
I've used thick non-Shimano grease in roller brakes with no ill
effects.
The brakes are weak because they're dry, and they're loud for the same
reason. You must buy a tube of special Shimano Roller Brake Grease and
squeeze in some through the grease port behind the small rubber plug
on the outside of the roller brake. Don't use any other grease.
Andre Jute
The rest is magic hidden in the hub.
For rare hub gear bikes, visit Jute on Bicycles at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html
Tangential question: are the "coaster brakes" on old single-speed
American bikes a flavor of roller brake?
--
PeteCresswell
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
> Tangential question: are the "coaster brakes" on old single-speed
> American bikes a flavor of roller brake?
No.
There are a few basic designs, from classic Bendix to New
Departure and on to Perry. Almost all CB are variants on one
of those but not roller brakes.
Unfortunately, if Shimano shows you a drawing of the Secret
Brake Mechanism, they'll have to kill you:
http://bernd.sluka.de/Fahrrad/Shimano/TM/FH-IM50_1998.gif
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
>> Roller brakes
> Tangential question: are the "coaster brakes" on old single-speed
> American bikes a flavor of roller brake?
New Departure and similar "coaster brakes" are multi-plate clutches,
half the plates static and half rotating. Backpedaling presses them
together and they work under the assumption that braking energy will
somehow escape from the tiny space they occupy, something that was not
true for descending hills, but good enough to stop a casual bicyclist
on the level roads.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes/new-departure.html
Being a rear wheel brake, they could easily be made to skid.
Jobst Brandt
>> Roller brakes
> Tangential question: are the "coaster brakes" on old single-speed
> American bikes a flavor of roller brake?
New Departure and similar "coaster brakes" are multi-plate clutches,
half the plates static and half rotating. Backpedaling presses them
together and they work under the assumption that braking energy will
somehow escape from the tiny space they occupy, something that was not
true for descending hills, but good enough to stop a casual bicyclist
on level ground.
What Andre Jute said-- your brake needs grease. Since that is a very
unusual and extreme condition for a grease, I would take Shimano at
their word when they say you must use their special roller brake
grease.
Occasional greasing is the only maintenance that roller brakes need,
but they really need it.
Chalo
Chalo wrote:
> What Andre Jute said-- your brake needs grease. Since that is a very
> unusual and extreme condition for a grease, I would take Shimano at
> their word when they say you must use their special roller brake
> grease.
>
> Occasional greasing is the only maintenance that roller brakes need,
> but they really need it.
Nothing wrong with Shimano grease but we pump Lubriplate
130AA [1] in them with good results. 'Good results' means
regular customers for 12 years or so. Normal interval is a
about a year in daily use.
[1] only because we have it, with an injector head, handy.
I've used Phil's because that's why I had laying around. Worked fine.
Yearly interval is about right in the rust belt. Should go a couple
years down here.
I have used aerosol spray grease, regular white lithium, phil's,
polylube 1000 and the special shimano grease. The main difference is
that the shimano grease is much less prone to catching on fire during
a long downhill on a hot day. I have also used wd-40, tri-flow, phil's
oil, and 3 in 1 when grease wasn't handy it they all worked as well.
Using oil rather than grease seemed to eliminate fade, but with a new
effect of causing a major spike in braking power when the brake got
really hot. If the brake is making noise it is a good idea to clean it
out before re-lubricating, as dirty old grease will build up in the
braking ring and degrade performance. The other source of noise is a
loose cooling fin/ring, and that can be solved with locktight or super
glue. If you still don't have enough braking power after re-
lubrication try using a longer pull brake lever.
-Rando