cable wire fray stop with solder
lhoffman
some heat to the ends and touch them with a little solder. I have not
seen this advocated anywhere, but I haven't seen it discouraged
either. Is there some obvious reason I'm missing why I should not do
this, or is this a legitimate way to prevent fraying?
Fred Marx
lhoffman wrote:
worked realy well for me until I went to Ultegra stuff the cables seem
to have alot of grease/lube on em and I was unable to get the solder to
take, even with flux and a torch...
Richard Ney
I silver-solder the cable ends on my bike.
If you clean (acetone) and flux the cables you should be fine. Be
careful not to overheat the cable end else you'll burn off the solder.
Dan Daniel
I've done it and it works fine. I have had problems getting solder to
work with stainless steel cables, though. So I have gone to heating
the cable tip with a lighter and then sticking the heated tip into a
block of bee's wax. Not quite as effective as solder, but it does
work.
Jeff
make the wire ends burst apart like a flower opening.
I recommend crimp-on end caps.
TBGibb
lhof...@techemail.com (lhoffman) writes:
It is a legit method, but stainless doesn't solder well. Kester has a web site
that talks about soldering stainless, it would be worth the search. I do this
with cheap cables and it usually holds. The trick is the right amount of heat
and (for me) acid flux with a plumbing type solder (you have to wash/soak the
flux off when done). A large soldering iron doesn't work very well (not
enough heat). A standard propane torch can provide too much heat (and has the
capacity to shorten the life span of your tires if you are doing this on the
bike). A small flame in a pencil type torch has been best for me.
Many here talk of using "super glue" or even a bit of shrink wrap.
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
Steve Hambley
>From: tbg...@aol.com (TBGibb)
>Date: 7/6/2003 7:26 PM Central Daylight Time
>Message-id: <20030706202620...@mb-m04.aol.com>
>
>In article <e31debe0.03070...@posting.google.com>,
>lhof...@techemail.com (lhoffman) writes:
>
>>Wanting to prevent my new cables from fraying, I thought I might apply
>>some heat to the ends and touch them with a little solder. I have not
>>seen this advocated anywhere, but I haven't seen it discouraged
>>either. Is there some obvious reason I'm missing why I should not do
>>this, or is this a legitimate way to prevent fraying?
I use a little dab of JB Quickweld. Works great.
Steve
Paul Southworth
The only reason I know of to not do it is because you might
not want to breathe what you are soldering it with.
--Paul
dan baker
> Wanting to prevent my new cables from fraying, I thought I might apply
> some heat to the ends and touch them with a little solder.
you'll have a hell of a time getting solder to stick to SS cable, and
might want to avoid the heat creeping upstream and melting any
high-end teflon or gortex housing liners. you're better off with some
AL cable caps crimped on....
d
David L. Johnson
> Many here talk of using "super glue" or even a bit of shrink wrap.
Nail polish. Can even match the color of the frame.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | The lottery is a tax on those who fail to understand
_`\(,_ | mathematics.
(_)/ (_) |
ari
p.s. crimp on cable end caps suck
"lhoffman" <lhof...@techemail.com> wrote in message
news:e31debe0.03070...@posting.google.com...
Shaun Rimmer
Lead/tin solder won't *bond to stainless steel. All I do, is roll up the
excess cable inner and tuck it out of the way, the factory sealed end is
still there then. Oh, it adds a few grams to the weight of the bike, but you
can apparently strip the frame of paint to lose it again, heheheheheh......
Shaun aRe - Least ways I could never get it to, and part of my job is
soldering. Silver solder or brass might do it, heheheh.....
Shaun Rimmer
ari <a...@ira.com> wrote in message
news:PB6Oa.484013$3n5.3...@news2.central.cox.net...
>
> "lhoffman" <lhof...@techemail.com> wrote in message
> news:e31debe0.03070...@posting.google.com...
> > Wanting to prevent my new cables from fraying, I thought I might apply
> > some heat to the ends and touch them with a little solder. I have not
> > seen this advocated anywhere, but I haven't seen it discouraged
> > either. Is there some obvious reason I'm missing why I should not do
> > this, or is this a legitimate way to prevent fraying?
> why bother when superglue does the job perfectly.
*Hmmm......
> p.s. crimp on cable end caps suck
I concur - they make the cable fray inside the cap IME, and should you
desire to separate inner and outer cables for cleaning etc, you have a
frayed cable in hand anyway. *Superglue will need to be scraped/burned
(etc.) off before pulling the inner from the outer as well, and you may well
end up in the same boat as with those pesky little alu caps.
Shaun aRe - just leave the new cables full length why not?
Phil Brown
>excess cable inner and tuck it out of the way, the factory sealed end is
>still there then. Oh, it adds a few grams to the weight of the bike, but
>you
>can apparently strip the frame of paint to lose it again, heheheheheh......
How many times does this topic get rehashed? To repeat, use acid plumber's flux
and plumber's solder. It will stuck to stainless fine. Dip the cable end in
flux, heat it with a gun or torch, touch the solder and wipe with a bit of
steel wool. Works every time.
Phil Brown
Werehatrack
have said:
If the cable is stainless, soldering can be a bitch. If you have the
cut-off end laying around, use that to test the technique before you
try to solder the one in active service. You may discover that the
cable you're using just won't submit to this readily...or it may wick
up the flux and take the solder with ease. The only way to find out
is to try.
---
My email address is antispammed;
pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Ted Bennett
buttons on the end of the cable?
I know it's not cost-effective for bike cables, but it sure would be for
motorcycle cables, at least mine, and my clutch cable dies regularly.
--
Ted Bennett
Portland OR
Phil Brown
>
>buttons on the end of the cable?
Easy, Ted. Find your local British motorcycle shop. They should have a supply
of various ends. Take the end, countersink the EXIT hole a bit if it isn't, put
the cable through, spread the end in the countersink, fill with lead solder and
install. Done many myself.
Phil Brown
Ted Bennett
Thanks, Phil. That will save me a little change and some aggravation.
Chris Zacho The Wheelman
Actually, ther is a cost effective way to "replace" the lead end, even
on a bike cable. And it's come in handy a couple of times when my cable
end has broken off on the road. And it works so well, it may last the
life of the cable.
Tie a knot in the end.
May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!
Chris
Chris'Z Corner
"The Website for the Common Bicyclist":
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner
Chris Zacho The Wheelman
fraying. It seems to have passed by the wayside however.
Ask at your LBS for some cable ends. These are little aluminum caps that
slide over the ends of the cable, Pinch them shut with a pair of pliers.
No more split ends!
Fritz M
> Ask at your LBS for some cable ends. These are little aluminum caps that
> slide over the ends of the cable, Pinch them shut with a pair of pliers.
This is so obvious, but I've never thought of it! *doh* I've always used
crimping wire connectors.
RFM
--
To reply, translate domain from l33+ 2p33|< to alpha.
4=a 0=o 3=e +=t
Suzy Jackson
> Ask at your LBS for some cable ends. These are little aluminum caps that
> slide over the ends of the cable, Pinch them shut with a pair of pliers.
And then when you want to take the cable off, pull the little aluminium caps
off the end of the cable only to find that the cable inside has been
deformed by the pliers and now won't fit through the outer, so your cable
gets half an inch shorter each time.
I'll stick to my nice neat soldered cable ends. Stainless (I use Campy ergo
cables) is no problems - just need to use the right flux.
The best thing about soldered cable ends is that you can file a little bevel
on the end of the cable, so that it finds its way into buried cable ends
easier, making working on ergo levers without removing the bar tape _much_
easier.
Regards,
Suzy
Chris Zacho The Wheelman
>And then when you want to take the
>cable off, pull the little aluminium caps
>off the end of the cable only to find that
>the cable inside has been deformed by
>the pliers and now won't fit through the
>outer, so your cable gets half an inch
>shorter each time.
I usually leave about 2-3 inches of cable past the anchor bolt, in case
the lead end breaks off, I can knot it and continue on my happy way, so
i have enough to clip. Usually I don't have any problems with the end
fraying under the cap, though. Could the rest of you perhaps be crimping
them on too tight?
Even if I did have to cut the last 1/4" off, I have enough left over to
last until I replace it anyway. Which I do every time I overhaul the
bike (about every 3,000 miles).
Besides, what little fraying the end cap does is piddle compared to what
the anchor bolt makes of the cable!
Mark Hickey
>Chrisz...@webtv.net (Chris Zacho "The Wheelman") wrote:
>
>> Ask at your LBS for some cable ends. These are little aluminum caps that
>> slide over the ends of the cable, Pinch them shut with a pair of pliers.
>
>And then when you want to take the cable off, pull the little aluminium caps
>off the end of the cable only to find that the cable inside has been
>deformed by the pliers and now won't fit through the outer, so your cable
>gets half an inch shorter each time.
You don't have to crimp the caps that hard - I always put three light
crimps in the "size small caps" (aligned with the wind, of course).
It's never caused any problems with getting the end of the cable back
through the cable (though I seldom have to do that since my frames
have split cable stops).
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame
A Muzi
news:tedbennett-4B951...@news.mindspring.com...
If you melt the lead off an old cable head , you'll see how the wire is
formed before the lead is poured around it. I once bought gear wires which
were made without pre-shaping the wire. The heads pulled right off with
little effort.
There are aftermarket devices which are small steel cylinders the size of an
MTB brake cable end (and even smalller) with a setscrew to hold the wire.
Algi made them and also Avid . You'd think they'd be unsafe but I have one
on a brake I installed in 1975 that is still fine ( same wire, too)
Non-bicycle cables ( such as the MotoGuzzi clutch control) frequently are
sold double-ended with the casing in place making proper lubrication
difficult. At least try to get some lube in the next new one before
installation, it helps a lot.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Kenneth Bowen
--
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