126 to 130 with aluminum?
Michael Hatfield
the same way steel frames are? Any feedback is appreciated.
Jay Beattie
Yes and no. It is physically possible to "cold set" aluminum but it is
not recommended and, if you are working with a Cannondale, it voids the
warranty. With that said, I cold set the stays on my old Cannondale
Black Lightning with much effort and squared-up the drop outs with an
alignment gague. Nothing has broken in 2 or 3 years of commuting to
work. Some people recommend automatic cold setting -- jamming in a
130mm hub and simply letting the frame "stretch." That did not work for
me. BTW, cold setting steel is a breeze by comparison. -- Jay Beattie.
Tho X. Bui
> With that said, I cold set the stays on my old Cannondale
> Black Lightning with much effort and squared-up the drop outs with an
> alignment gague. Nothing has broken in 2 or 3 years of commuting to
> work.
That makes sense. Cold working usually doesn't affect fatigue
strength. If anything, it might make it even more resistant. If you
cold set and no cracks form during the procedure, or no buckling
occured, you've made it.
Still, bend short and fat aluminum stays require a lot of courage. More
than I have.
Tho
John Everett
>
>That makes sense. Cold working usually doesn't affect fatigue
>strength. If anything, it might make it even more resistant. If you
>cold set and no cracks form during the procedure, or no buckling
>occured, you've made it.
>
>Still, bend short and fat aluminum stays require a lot of courage. More
>than I have.
This "problem" is vastly overstated. We collectively keep forgetting that the
original 130mm spaced, 8-speed DuraAce hubs came with conical locknuts on the
axles. This was to allow them to be more easily snapped into a 126mm spaced
rear triangle.
Note also that after riding my (aluminum) Vitus 992 for seven years and
over 30,000 miles with a 130mm rear hub, I finally measured the spacing of the
rear triangle with the hub removed. It measures 128mm. Obviously not problem.
Over the years I've asked here many times whether anyone has ACTUALLY had a
problem because of running an 130mm hub in a 126mm spaced rear triangle. Only
one person ever responded, and reported that he had snapped an axle. I'm
guessing there were other contributing factors in that case.
--
jeverett<AT>wwa<DOT>com (John Everett) http://www.wwa.com/~jeverett
Paul Southworth
John Everett <jeve...@wwa.DEFEAT.UCE.BOTS.com> wrote:
>
>Over the years I've asked here many times whether anyone has ACTUALLY had a
>problem because of running an 130mm hub in a 126mm spaced rear triangle. Only
>one person ever responded, and reported that he had snapped an axle. I'm
>guessing there were other contributing factors in that case.
I've never been afraid of doing this, but you have to ask yourself
whether a couple millimeters of rear triangle alignment matters to you.
If it does, don't assume that the stays flex an equal amount when you
spring them open - chances are one of them will do most of the flexing.
Sometimes this is a "don't care" kind of problem since the state of
bike frame alignment is so poor generally anyway - if you back a car
over a mass-produced frame you have nearly even odds of improving the
alignment over factory. :-)
Also, almost any 130mm-spaced hub (with threaded axle) can have a
couple millimeters shaved off the over-lock-nut dimension with careful
substitution of thinner lock nuts or spacers (constrained mostly by dish
considerations and the shape of the inside of the right rear drop-out
- sometimes chain will rub on the bottom of the stay if you bring it
closer). Then you have only a 2mm problem, which is less flexing or
less bending depending on how you approach the solution.
--Paul
Dave
bike measures 127
John Everett wrote in message
>In article <37E77A...@prodigy.net>, bl...@prodigy.net says...
>>
>>That makes sense. Cold working usually doesn't affect fatigue
>>strength. If anything, it might make it even more resistant. If you
>>cold set and no cracks form during the procedure, or no buckling
>>occured, you've made it.
>>
>>Still, bend short and fat aluminum stays require a lot of courage. More
>>than I have.
>
>This "problem" is vastly overstated. We collectively keep forgetting that
the
>original 130mm spaced, 8-speed DuraAce hubs came with conical locknuts on
the
>rear triangle.
>
>Note also that after riding my (aluminum) Vitus 992 for seven years and
>over 30,000 miles with a 130mm rear hub, I finally measured the spacing of
the
>rear triangle with the hub removed. It measures 128mm. Obviously not
problem.
>
>problem because of running an 130mm hub in a 126mm spaced rear triangle.
Only
>one person ever responded, and reported that he had snapped an axle. I'm
>guessing there were other contributing factors in that case.
>
Tho X. Bui
>
> I agree with John. I ride a Vitus 979 with 8 speed D/A "made" for 130 and my
> bike measures 127
> John Everett wrote in message
> >In article <37E77A...@prodigy.net>, bl...@prodigy.net says...
> >>
> >>That makes sense. Cold working usually doesn't affect fatigue
> >>strength. If anything, it might make it even more resistant. If you
> >>cold set and no cracks form during the procedure, or no buckling
> >>occured, you've made it.
> >>
> >>Still, bend short and fat aluminum stays require a lot of courage. More
> >>than I have.
> >
> >This "problem" is vastly overstated. We collectively keep forgetting that
> the
> >original 130mm spaced, 8-speed DuraAce hubs came with conical locknuts on
> the
> >axles. This was to allow them to be more easily snapped into a 126mm spaced
> >rear triangle.
> >
> >Note also that after riding my (aluminum) Vitus 992 for seven years and
Aren't these Vitus (Viti?) the ones with small diameter tubes? It's
amazing how much stiffer a tube get by just increasing the diamter
slightly. The stays of a Canondale, for example are short and fat, and
very hard to bend.
Tho
Tom Kunich
>
> Can aluminum frames be spread from 126 to 130 to accomodate an 8 sp hub
> the same way steel frames are? Any feedback is appreciated.
The frame cannot be spread. No fear though. If you use an older 8-speed
DuraAce wheel it will have tapers on the ends of the spacers and will
slip right in and spread the forks enough to so the job.
Works like a charm.
Simon Dodd
> > I agree with John. I ride a Vitus 979 with 8 speed D/A "made" for 130 and my
> > bike measures 127
> > >This "problem" is vastly overstated. We collectively keep forgetting that
> > the
> > >original 130mm spaced, 8-speed DuraAce hubs came with conical locknuts on
> > the
> > >axles. This was to allow them to be more easily snapped into a 126mm spaced
> > >rear triangle.
> > >
The stays of a Canondale, for example are short and fat, and
> very hard to bend.
>
> Tho
-------------------------------------------
I have an old C'dale 3.0 crit frame that is spaced at 126mm, but is
running a 130mm hub. (8 speed Ultegra) I didn't cold set anything, and
it seems to drop in/out reasonably. I DO have a little trouble with the
indexing being a little off, but the frame has been crashed twice (not
my fault =)) in races with the rear der. hanger being bent &
straightened. So I would have to conclude that it works well enough,
but it MAY have a slight detriment to shifting. (personally I believe
the crashing did all of the damage though)
-simon
simon...@om.cv.hp.com