I've tried putting the wheel in a vice and turning
counter-clockwise but the freewheel will not budge.
I've also tried to spray the hub with WD-40 hoping that
some of it will sink in and losen things up.
Nothing seems to work!
I would appreciate any advice,
Alessandro
--
pess...@access.digex.net
I. Take skewer out of hub, and insert proper freewheel tool.
II. Place skewer through axle and tool, and tighten so that there is less than 1 mm play
in the freewheel tool
III. Lock freewheel tool in a vise.
IV. Grab rim and turn with all your might. Freewheels have right hand threads, so the freewheel
needs to turn counter-clockwise relative to the hub (if you are looking at the freewheel side of the
hub)
The alternative plan is to follow steps I and II, and get the biggest wrench you can find
and get 2 people to try to loosen it, one on the rim and the other on the wrench (which is on the
freewheel tool).
--
---------------------------
Dave Blake
dbl...@bme.jhu.edu
" The more you drive, the less intelligent you are." - Repo man
This is a little brutal, but it should work and is unlikely to damage
the freewheel or hub. I've done this a couple of times, anyway:
1. Insert your freewheel removal tool in the freewheel. Secure it with
your quick release skewer or an axle nut.
2. Grab the freewheel removal tool with a big (30cm or 12") crescent
wrench (adjustable spanner if you're outside North America).
3. Hold the wheel tightly, and give the wrench a couple of thumps with
a big soft rubber mallet (not a hammer).
Good luck--
David Rayner
AP> Can anyone give me some advice on removing a freewheel
AP> that does not want to come off?
DR> This is a little brutal, but it should work and is unlikely to damage
DR> the freewheel or hub. I've done this a couple of times, anyway:
DR> 1. Insert your freewheel removal tool in the freewheel. Secure it with
DR> your quick release skewer or an axle nut.
DR> 2. Grab the freewheel removal tool with a big (30cm or 12") crescent
DR> wrench (adjustable spanner if you're outside North America).
DR> 3. Hold the wheel tightly, and give the wrench a couple of thumps with
DR> a big soft rubber mallet (not a hammer).
If the freewheel is really tight than put the freewheel remover in a
vice and use the wheel for leverage. If you can't get it than get a
friend to help you. If the two of you can't loosen the freewheel than
it is time to get a hammer and I'm not talking about a soft rubber
mallet. One of the bike shops I worked at had some customers who
raced tandems and their freewheels got so tight that we had to use a
small sledge hammer on a large wrench attached to the tool to loosen
the freewheel. We broke a lot of freewheel extractors this way and
munged a few freewheels but it was simply was the only way. If you
are using a freewheel like the old SunTour 2 prong ones than you may
destroy the freewheel trying to remove it. At this point the only
thing you can do is to disassemble the freehweel leaving only the
core on the hub and then use a huge pipe wrench on just the core. Not
a pretty job but sometimes bike mechanicry gets ugly.
Every time you install a freewheel be sure the threads are greased to
prevent seizure.
--
Bruce Jackson | P. O. Box 13886-NT | GAB 550E
UNIX Systems Admin. | Denton TX 76203-3886 | (817)565-2279
Computer Sciences | jac...@cs.unt.edu | FAX (817)565-2799
Univ. of North Texas | http://replicant.csci.unt.edu/~jackson/
> The alternative plan is to follow steps I and II, and get the biggest
> wrench you can find and get 2 people to try to loosen it, one on the rim
> and the other on the wrench (which is on the freewheel tool).
If that's not enough, put a pipe over the wrench.
hajo
--
Incidentally I think that Fido software should be disconnected from the network.
Don't forget about air driven impact wrenches. The momentary torque is very
high which serves to break loose the stuck connection. Average torque is
low, so you can hold both the wheel and impact wrench by hand. I've resorted
to this a couple of times with great success (once was on a hub with no
wheel --- uhhh, but that's another story).
Disclaimer: Impact wrenches and compressed air can be dangerous, use impact
sockets, eyewear, etc.
--
Rob Pauley
rob.p...@gtri.gatech.edu
A couple ounces of plastic explosive worked for me once...
(its amazing what you can make in your kitchen....)
anyone for some rocket fuel.....
On Sat, 8 Jul 1995, Thomas H. Kunich wrote:
> > Can anyone give me some advice on removing a freewheel
> > that does not want to come off?
> >
> > I've tried putting the wheel in a vice and turning
> > counter-clockwise but the freewheel will not budge.
>
> Because you _almost_ got it right. Lock the freewheel tool in the
> vice, slip the wheel over (if you have one of the old notch types
> you need to secure it snugly with the skewer) and give it a strong
> twist (in the normal OFF direction). Using the leverage of the
> wheel radius is generally enough to free all but the worst sticks.
>
If you've decided to replace your freewheel, there is one more way I've
found that has ALWAYS worked for me. Remove the lock ring that holds the
cogs onto the freewheel body. Remove the cogs (watch all those bearings
fly, it does help to do this over a bucket). Find the largest pipewrench
and use that.
Jeff
Because you _almost_ got it right. Lock the freewheel tool in the
vice, slip the wheel over (if you have one of the old notch types
you need to secure it snugly with the skewer) and give it a strong
twist (in the normal OFF direction). Using the leverage of the
wheel radius is generally enough to free all but the worst sticks.
If you need more than this take the wheel to a good shop because you
don't even want to know what you might have to go through to get what's
left off. And you may need a new wheel after they're fone too.
...
:-)A couple ounces of plastic explosive worked for me once...
:-)
:-)(its amazing what you can make in your kitchen....)
:-)
:-)anyone for some rocket fuel.....
Almost believable, after I've seen the remenants of my old freewheel after
the bike shop had it removed...
Bye
Markus
>1. Insert your freewheel removal tool in the freewheel. Secure it with
>your quick release skewer or an axle nut.
>2. Grab the freewheel removal tool with a big (30cm or 12") crescent
>wrench (adjustable spanner if you're outside North America).
( or shifter, if you live in Australia) I use an 18" for more
leverage.
>3. Hold the wheel tightly, and give the wrench a couple of thumps with
>a big soft rubber mallet (not a hammer).
>Good luck--
>David Rayner
This is also what I would recommend, but some of the other
suggestions have been quite feasable if all else fails.
Later, Rick.
I've been removing freewheels for years, but recently had one
that just wouldn't shift. I ended up munging the part that the
freewheel remover connects with (it was a Suntour four prong).
If you don't mind destroying the freewheel, this is what you do:
Remove all the cogs, and then use a pin wrench to unscrew the
locking ring on the outside of the freewheel (left hand thread, I
seem to recall). This will allow you to lift off the outer body of
the freewheel (the bit that freewheels). Remove loose parts (like
the pawls & BBs). Apply a large (I use 18") pipe wrench to
the inner body of the freewheel to unscrew it. If this doesn't
work, use a bigger pipe wrench.
____________________________________
Badges? We don't need no stinkin badges!
Toma...@AOL.com__________________
> If you don't mind destroying the freewheel, this is what you do:
> Remove all the cogs, and then use a pin wrench to unscrew the
> locking ring on the outside of the freewheel (left hand thread, I
> seem to recall). This will allow you to lift off the outer body of
> the freewheel (the bit that freewheels). Remove loose parts (like
> the pawls & BBs). Apply a large (I use 18") pipe wrench to
> the inner body of the freewheel to unscrew it. If this doesn't
> work, use a bigger pipe wrench.
I did this with a couple of Winner Pro FW's in a row, only I had to use a
hefty 6-inch vise bolted to a bench (this was *after* I wasted a mere
4-inch vise in the attempt.) Perhaps it was the extra torque of the 38
tooth granny cog that necessitated this treatment?
Chalo Colina
Austin, Texas
o> Perhaps it was the extra torque of the 38
o> tooth granny cog that necessitated this treatment?
I've found that a real good cleaning of the threads and then packing them
with grease before you screw it on in the first place can make all the
difference in the world when taking them off...after this all I ever use is a
12" crescent wrench on the remover tool.
chriss
- BREAKFAST.COM Halted...Cereal Port Not Responding