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Noise from DT Swiss Hub
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Jeff
Jul 27, 2012, 10:09:17 AM7/27/12
to
I bought a set of DT Swiss 240 Hubs a few years ago. ...have had no problems
with the front hub, but the rear seems to make some occasional creaking
noises. Putting more lube inside seems to quiet it down for a hundred miles
or so, but the noise returns. I recently replaced the two ratcheting pieces
(whatever they are called) and used the DT grease after cleaning out
everything. Again, the hub was very quiet for a hundred miles or so and now
the noise is returning. It's hard to imagine that this noise is coming from
one of the sealed bearings given the fact that none of the new grease is
getting inside of them. ...but I'm also unsure how this could be a defect. I
do weigh about 250, so perhaps these things make noise with more weight on
them. Has anyone else seen such a problem?
thirty-six
Jul 27, 2012, 10:41:42 AM7/27/12
to
thirty-six
Jul 27, 2012, 12:35:58 PM7/27/12
to
bearings to compensate for the extra pressure.
Jay Beattie
Jul 27, 2012, 12:43:43 PM7/27/12
to
creaking caused by fretting between the dropout face and axle lock nut
or between parts of a broken dropout. Check the drop out. IMO, lack of
lubrication in a hub usually doesn't create a creaking sound -- you
usually get grinding or clunking. How does the hub spin? Can you feel
anything?
-- Jay Beattie.
Jeff
Jul 27, 2012, 8:27:41 PM7/27/12
to
"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
news:47cf8a1d-200c-4b72...@oo8g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
Lubricating may also be treating some other condition, such as
creaking caused by fretting between the dropout face and axle lock nut
or between parts of a broken dropout. Check the drop out. IMO, lack of
lubrication in a hub usually doesn't create a creaking sound -- you
usually get grinding or clunking. How does the hub spin? Can you feel
anything?
> Adjust QR so that you have to use all your weight to close it.
then release and back of a smidgen before closing again. Adjust
bearings to compensate for the extra pressure.
****************
then release and back of a smidgen before closing again. Adjust
bearings to compensate for the extra pressure.
I'm out of town until Monday and will try the extra pressure on the QR thing
when I get back. It's hard to imagine that
the problem is in the dropout itself since it's a very solid piece of
titanium on a Serotta frame. ...but I can see how it might be
related to the side of the dropout face where it meets the QR. ...especially
if there isn't enough pressure on the QR to
hold it firmly. I have not considered this before.
I didn’t notice the noise when another wheel was on the bike for testing,
but that would have had a different QR that might have more firmly bit into
the
dropout.
I've always used a reasonable amount of pressure when closing the QR's but
I've only paid attention to
putting enough pressure on to make sure that the wheel remains tight and not
to make sure that the axle doesn't move a bit on the dropout.
The hub spins beautifully and silently after each time I've lubed it, and
when the wheel is off the bike, it feels perfectly smooth.
The sound on the bike it's loud or bad, but just enough to be annoying on an
otherwise silent drivetrain. I didn't notice it as much until last
week when I put on a new chain and cogset. The new drive components are now
perfectly silent so I can now more easily hear softer noises
from the hub.
...but now that I think about it, the sound might go away
temporarily after each time I remove the rear wheel and then replace (as I
would have to do to lube it - I also remove the wheels to
transport inside my car. In other words, perhaps it moves just enough on the
dropout to create the noise and removing the wheel puts a small
amount of oil or grease on the surfaces that comes off my hands as I'm
working, which temporarily silences the movement.
I'll let you know if more pressure on the QR solves the problem next week.
jeff
DirtRoadie
Jul 27, 2012, 8:53:25 PM7/27/12
to
(1) Do you know for certain that the noise is in the hub?
(Sources of noises can be pretty easily mis-identified)
(2) When does it make noise - pedaling, freewheeling, both?
(3) In the saddle, out of the saddle, both?
(4) Pedaling backwards?
(5) Is there any rhythm or frequency to it?
Also try LESS (but sufficient) QR tension in case you are overloading
(side load) the bearings, which can happen with some hubs - less
commonly with rear.
Examine the wheel carefully, especially for visible damage (cracks)
at spoke holes in both rim and hub.
DR
Jeff
Jul 27, 2012, 11:23:39 PM7/27/12
to
"DirtRoadie" wrote in message
news:cd7b31f8-21e4-40db...@c4g2000pba.googlegroups.com...
You're absolutely right that noises can be easily mis-identified. I couldn't
figure out the source for a long while.
Two mechanics initially told me that it was in the BB. After swapping wheels
it went away. After lubing the inside of the
hub it went away temporarily.
It makes the noise pedaling, not freewheeling.
It makes the noise both in and out of the saddle.
Pedaling backwards is essentially freewheeling and no noise.
The only rhythm I can determine is that it makes noise more consistently
when riding hard (and again, I'm 250 pounds).
The hub has done this since new. The wheel was built by Colorado Cyclists
and I've had no problems with either front nor rear
after several years and probably 7 to 10 thousand miles.
I'll try both more and less QR tension and see if that does anything. The QR
tension seems to make more sense than anything else.
Jeff
Jay Beattie
Jul 27, 2012, 11:34:09 PM7/27/12
to
check the drop outs and put it back with a little lubrication. There
are a bunch of things other than the hub that can cause rear end
creaking. -- Jay Beattie.
DirtRoadie
Jul 28, 2012, 12:09:19 AM7/28/12
to
On Jul 27, 9:23 pm, "Jeff" <some...@fake.com> wrote:
> "DirtRoadie" wrote in message
>
> news:cd7b31f8-21e4-40db...@c4g2000pba.googlegroups.com...
>
> You're absolutely right that noises can be easily mis-identified. I couldn't
> figure out the source for a long while.
> Two mechanics initially told me that it was in the BB. After swapping wheels
> it went away. After lubing the inside of the
> hub it went away temporarily.
One of my bikes developed a hard-to-diagnose "BB creak" that still
> "DirtRoadie" wrote in message
>
> news:cd7b31f8-21e4-40db...@c4g2000pba.googlegroups.com...
>
> You're absolutely right that noises can be easily mis-identified. I couldn't
> figure out the source for a long while.
> Two mechanics initially told me that it was in the BB. After swapping wheels
> it went away. After lubing the inside of the
> hub it went away temporarily.
appears regularly. While it is a bit annoying when it occurs, at least
I now know it comes from the seatpost/seattube/clamp interface.
> It makes the noise pedaling, not freewheeling.
> It makes the noise both in and out of the saddle.
> Pedaling backwards is essentially freewheeling and no noise.
> The only rhythm I can determine is that it makes noise more consistently
> when riding hard (and again, I'm 250 pounds).
> The hub has done this since new. The wheel was built by Colorado Cyclists
> and I've had no problems with either front nor rear
> after several years and probably 7 to 10 thousand miles.
>
> I'll try both more and less QR tension and see if that does anything. The QR
> tension seems to make more sense than anything else.
>
> Jeff
is related to the specific wheel, but still does not confirm the hub
as culprit.
So, if "The hub has done this since new," that may negate everything I
say below.
My money is on cracks in the rim. The symptoms mostly fit (including
your weight). And among my riding friends, I have seen many such
failures (all in commercial wheels), even though I have never had one
of my own (which I build -no brag, just fact ;-)
So- What type of rim? How many spokes?
Can you describe the noise with more particularity?
In any case, ANY place where there is an interface between surfaces
(whether it is supposed to exist or not) is a candidate for movement
which results in creaks.
DR
datakoll
Jul 28, 2012, 1:15:11 AM7/28/12
to
spoke rub
Lou Holtman
Jul 28, 2012, 5:13:50 AM7/28/12
to
Op 27-7-2012 16:09, Jeff schreef:
DT240s are together with Campy hubs my favourite and I have several
(ATB's, Singlespeed and a Citec wheelset which uses the same innards).
Although expensive they are very well sealed and easy to maintain. To a
certain level toolless and without tricky adjustments. Creaks come from
little movements of metal-metal interfaces. EVERY metal-metal interface
should be greased. Like already mentioned tightness off the QR could be
an easy fix as greasing the metal to metal interface of a changeable
derailleur hanger with the frame although I expect that a Ti Serrotta
doesn't have one. I'm not surpised that replacing the ratchering rings
didn't solved the problem (they are in constant movement when coasting)
but doing so you removed the wheel loosening and tightening the QR which
'resets' the preload on the bearings and this could shut down the noise
for a while.
Lets assume it is the hub. Take it apart. For the right bearing you need
a special tool, but you can ask you LBS if they have one. The hub looks
then like this:
<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DT240S#5300525662636801666>
Grease every metal-metal contact even the outer rings of the bearings in
the hubshell, spacer and endcaps. If the creaking persists it is not the
hub or it is the metal to metal contacts of the bearings in the
freewheel body. You can remove them but you have to be handy and
careful. Since you have to tap on the inner rings of the bearings I
never trust them any more and replace them and make sure to grease the
metal to metal contact of the outer rings of the bearings and the
freewheel body despite it is a slight press fitting. I had to do this
once on my ATB. This was not the fault of the hub but the result of my
brutal cleaning method which the hub can take very well. You only have
to be a little careful with the outer bearing of the freewheel body as I
found out the hard way.
I take the hubs apart after every ATB season and I always surprised how
well sealed they are and how clean they look even after everal brutal
cleaning sessions.
<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/ATB27febr2011#5612983936057095234>
Lou
(ATB's, Singlespeed and a Citec wheelset which uses the same innards).
Although expensive they are very well sealed and easy to maintain. To a
certain level toolless and without tricky adjustments. Creaks come from
little movements of metal-metal interfaces. EVERY metal-metal interface
should be greased. Like already mentioned tightness off the QR could be
an easy fix as greasing the metal to metal interface of a changeable
derailleur hanger with the frame although I expect that a Ti Serrotta
doesn't have one. I'm not surpised that replacing the ratchering rings
didn't solved the problem (they are in constant movement when coasting)
but doing so you removed the wheel loosening and tightening the QR which
'resets' the preload on the bearings and this could shut down the noise
for a while.
Lets assume it is the hub. Take it apart. For the right bearing you need
a special tool, but you can ask you LBS if they have one. The hub looks
then like this:
<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DT240S#5300525662636801666>
Grease every metal-metal contact even the outer rings of the bearings in
the hubshell, spacer and endcaps. If the creaking persists it is not the
hub or it is the metal to metal contacts of the bearings in the
freewheel body. You can remove them but you have to be handy and
careful. Since you have to tap on the inner rings of the bearings I
never trust them any more and replace them and make sure to grease the
metal to metal contact of the outer rings of the bearings and the
freewheel body despite it is a slight press fitting. I had to do this
once on my ATB. This was not the fault of the hub but the result of my
brutal cleaning method which the hub can take very well. You only have
to be a little careful with the outer bearing of the freewheel body as I
found out the hard way.
I take the hubs apart after every ATB season and I always surprised how
well sealed they are and how clean they look even after everal brutal
cleaning sessions.
<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/ATB27febr2011#5612983936057095234>
Lou
thirty-six
Jul 28, 2012, 5:15:13 AM7/28/12
to
On Jul 28, 6:15 am, datakoll <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> spoke rub
and that, but changing QR tension is the easiest. Usually, the noise
from rubbing spokes can be replicated with a static bike by leaning
the wheel while carrying all the rider's weight. It might well be
there if tested hard enough but noise from low skewer tension is not
so easily tested, the bike has to be ridden and so skewer tension
should first be modified as it may save the bother with further wheel
work.
> spoke rub
and that, but changing QR tension is the easiest. Usually, the noise
from rubbing spokes can be replicated with a static bike by leaning
the wheel while carrying all the rider's weight. It might well be
there if tested hard enough but noise from low skewer tension is not
so easily tested, the bike has to be ridden and so skewer tension
should first be modified as it may save the bother with further wheel
work.
Jeff
Jul 28, 2012, 12:42:51 PM7/28/12
to
"Lou Holtman" wrote in message
news:92b1$5013ad48$541d34fb$25...@cache1.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...
You are correct that my Ti and Carbon Serotta does not have a removable
derailleur hanger.
Although cracks in the rims might potentially be the problem, it would have
had to be a manufacturing defect
in the otherwise great DT Swiss rims I have, since this has occurred since
new. Although I
often build my own wheels, I could not get the individual parts for the
wheels cheaper than
I could get Colorado Cyclists to build exactly what I wanted in a package
deal, so I opted for them
to do the wheel build. The spoke tensions seem ideal to me and I don't think
that I've have to true them
even once over about 7-10k miles with a 250 pound rider who doesn't baby his
road bike. I spec'ed the
wheels to be as strong as reasonably possible given my weight, so 32 spokes,
3 cross, with the double-eyelet
DT Swiss rims (don't remember the model number, but the standard ones
available in about 2007)
and DT double butted DT spokes with brass nipples.
I have taken the rear hub apart as Lou mentioned and replaced the star
ratchets and used the DT grease everywhere I could
- all but the sealed bearings, since (as he mentioned), you need a special
tool to remove them and it's not a regular service item. If the QR tension
adjustments don't do the trick, I may look into getting one
of those tools or tool kits. ...not sure exactly what I need. I found
something on ebay. Is this correct?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-kit-DT-Swiss-240-hubs-free-shipping-ww-/230805932973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bd1b0bad
I generally do my own maintenance and already have a complete set of tools
so I wouldn't mind something to remove the
bearings if, in fact, this is the problem. I think I've seen replacement
bearings at some on-line shops, but not sure exactly
what I would need. Can you point me in the right direction?
Over the years I've run Dura Ace and other Shimano along with Hope and Phil
Wood on my tandem, and White on my
fixed gear. The Hope's innards broke once and I ended up deciding to build a
completely new wheel with the Phil Wood hub instead of fixing it.
...but the DT's seem to be my favorite for smoothness, easy of maintenance,
and even looks.
...but I'm still going to assume for now that the problem might be related
to QR tension and as Lou mentions
removing the wheel would reset the tension on the bearings and possibly shut
down the noise for awhile.
I suppose that if I start to hear the noise I could stop and redo the QR and
see if the noise goes away for
awhile. I'll be able to check this out Monday or Tuesday when I return home.
Jeff
Lou Holtman
Jul 28, 2012, 2:03:32 PM7/28/12
to
Op 28-7-2012 18:42, Jeff schreef:
Yep.
>
>
> I generally do my own maintenance and already have a complete set of
> tools so I wouldn't mind something to remove the
> bearings if, in fact, this is the problem. I think I've seen replacement
> bearings at some on-line shops, but not sure exactly
> what I would need. Can you point me in the right direction?
Bearings are simple inner diameter, outer diameter, width, sealed/not
sealed.
Complete intruction PDF on DT swiss site:
<http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/1219c0b7-776d-46ea-8625-dedf5ec2de19/Datasheet.aspx>
>
> Over the years I've run Dura Ace and other Shimano along with Hope and
> Phil Wood on my tandem, and White on my
> fixed gear. The Hope's innards broke once and I ended up deciding to
> build a completely new wheel with the Phil Wood hub instead of fixing it.
> ...but the DT's seem to be my favorite for smoothness, easy of
> maintenance, and even looks.
>
> ...but I'm still going to assume for now that the problem might be
> related to QR tension and as Lou mentions
> removing the wheel would reset the tension on the bearings and possibly
> shut down the noise for awhile.
> I suppose that if I start to hear the noise I could stop and redo the QR
> and see if the noise goes away for
> awhile. I'll be able to check this out Monday or Tuesday when I return
> home.
>
Let us know how worked out.
Lou
>
>
> I generally do my own maintenance and already have a complete set of
> tools so I wouldn't mind something to remove the
> bearings if, in fact, this is the problem. I think I've seen replacement
> bearings at some on-line shops, but not sure exactly
> what I would need. Can you point me in the right direction?
sealed.
Complete intruction PDF on DT swiss site:
<http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/1219c0b7-776d-46ea-8625-dedf5ec2de19/Datasheet.aspx>
>
> Over the years I've run Dura Ace and other Shimano along with Hope and
> Phil Wood on my tandem, and White on my
> fixed gear. The Hope's innards broke once and I ended up deciding to
> build a completely new wheel with the Phil Wood hub instead of fixing it.
> ...but the DT's seem to be my favorite for smoothness, easy of
> maintenance, and even looks.
>
> ...but I'm still going to assume for now that the problem might be
> related to QR tension and as Lou mentions
> removing the wheel would reset the tension on the bearings and possibly
> shut down the noise for awhile.
> I suppose that if I start to hear the noise I could stop and redo the QR
> and see if the noise goes away for
> awhile. I'll be able to check this out Monday or Tuesday when I return
> home.
>
Lou
reh...@gmail.com
Jul 28, 2012, 6:41:48 PM7/28/12
to
James
Jul 29, 2012, 5:44:07 PM7/29/12
to
If not, it could be a cracked rim.
--
JS.
datakoll
Jul 30, 2012, 1:06:27 AM7/30/12
to
240 thru B or S ?
izzit musical ? email a recording ?
izzit musical ? email a recording ?
datakoll
Jul 31, 2012, 1:51:10 AM7/31/12
to
On Sunday, July 29, 2012 10:06:27 PM UTC-7, datakoll wrote:
> 240 thru B or S ?
>
>
>
> izzit musical ? email a recording ?
interesting recording the noise....mayube there's more there than creak......creak......creak
> 240 thru B or S ?
>
>
>
> izzit musical ? email a recording ?
alternate hearing method: install earplugs then use your forehead for bone to metal frame or 2" water pipe as stethescope to forehead....entirely different sound picture...alters idea, way misplaced...ura hearing what's happening.
Dave
Jul 31, 2012, 11:53:29 AM7/31/12
to
If the dropouts are ti, I'd inspect the inner faces. The knurls on the axle faces need to emboss the dropouts slightly to stay in place.
The ti may be too hard for the knurls to dig in.
The ti may be too hard for the knurls to dig in.
datakoll
Jul 31, 2012, 12:22:11 PM7/31/12
to
On Tuesday, July 31, 2012 8:53:29 AM UTC-7, Dave wrote:
> If the dropouts are ti, I'd inspect the inner faces. The knurls on the axle faces need to emboss the dropouts slightly to stay in place.
>
>
>
> The ti may be too hard for the knurls to dig in.
RIGHT. IF YOU TAKE EVERYTHING APART apart apart for rubbed surfaces inspection...
> If the dropouts are ti, I'd inspect the inner faces. The knurls on the axle faces need to emboss the dropouts slightly to stay in place.
>
>
>
> The ti may be too hard for the knurls to dig in.
you'll find nothing relevant.
better check the cranks for looseness under pressure
Jeff
Aug 2, 2012, 1:04:57 PM8/2/12
to
"Lou Holtman" wrote in message
Let us know how worked out.
Lou
I can't believe it was so simple. I increased the pressure on the
Lou
skewer/QR - really nothing excessive, just closing it
with as hard of hand pressure as I could - and the noise is gone. I did
about 20 miles yesterday and 40 today in complete
silence. I'm assuming that the lightweight QR didn't bite into the hard Ti
dropout well and moved just a bit under hard
riding with a 250 pound rider. ...and I had a reasonable amount of pressure
on it before, but only making sure it was
enough to hold the wheel on.
I guess that I'll wait for another few thousand miles to worry about
replacing any of the bearings.
Thanks for the advice.
Jeff
Lou Holtman
Aug 2, 2012, 1:25:20 PM8/2/12
to
Op 2-8-2012 19:04, Jeff schreef:
Open cam QR?
Lou
Lou
thirty-six
Aug 2, 2012, 4:36:45 PM8/2/12
to
On Aug 2, 6:04 pm, "Jeff" <some...@fake.com> wrote:
> "Lou Holtman" wrote in message
>
> news:5f810$5014296d$541d34fb$19...@cache100.multikabel.net...
> Let us know how worked out.
> Lou
>
> I can't believe it was so simple. I increased the pressure on the
> skewer/QR - really nothing excessive, just closing it
> with as hard of hand pressure as I could - and the noise is gone. I did
> about 20 miles yesterday and 40 today in complete
> silence. I'm assuming that the lightweight QR didn't bite into the hard Ti
> dropout well and moved just a bit under hard
> riding with a 250 pound rider. ...and I had a reasonable amount of pressure
> on it before, but only making sure it was
> enough to hold the wheel on.
Many get it wrong and repeat the error for years even with all steel
> "Lou Holtman" wrote in message
>
> news:5f810$5014296d$541d34fb$19...@cache100.multikabel.net...
> Let us know how worked out.
> Lou
>
> I can't believe it was so simple. I increased the pressure on the
> skewer/QR - really nothing excessive, just closing it
> with as hard of hand pressure as I could - and the noise is gone. I did
> about 20 miles yesterday and 40 today in complete
> silence. I'm assuming that the lightweight QR didn't bite into the hard Ti
> dropout well and moved just a bit under hard
> riding with a 250 pound rider. ...and I had a reasonable amount of pressure
> on it before, but only making sure it was
> enough to hold the wheel on.
parts, the error leads to fatigue failure with classic axles.
>
> I guess that I'll wait for another few thousand miles to worry about
> replacing any of the bearings.
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
> Jeff
Jeff
Aug 2, 2012, 6:15:56 PM8/2/12
to
"Lou Holtman" wrote in message
Open cam QR?
Lou
yes. one of the DT Swiss QR. It does seem to have the steel (or perhaps TI)
face on the acorn nut and
seems to be quite capable of holding the wheel firmly (in vertical dropouts)
when I just started using more force, however.
Interestingly, I took the bike to at least a half dozen good bike shops and
non of the mechanics ever
suggested tightening up the QR. ...one of the reasons I do all work myself.
Jeff
Lou Holtman
Aug 3, 2012, 2:25:19 AM8/3/12
to
Op 3-8-2012 0:15, Jeff schreef:
The problem with open cam QR is that the force you feel in your hand
when closing tell little about the clamping force you apply. On all my
DT swiss hubs I have replaced the original DT QR's with cheap closed cam
Shimano Deore QR. DT swiss make great hubs, but their QR suck. What were
they thinking when they 'invented' their latest ratching QR. What a
stupid idea. As stupid as lawyer lips on a fork.
Lou
when closing tell little about the clamping force you apply. On all my
DT swiss hubs I have replaced the original DT QR's with cheap closed cam
Shimano Deore QR. DT swiss make great hubs, but their QR suck. What were
they thinking when they 'invented' their latest ratching QR. What a
stupid idea. As stupid as lawyer lips on a fork.
Lou
datakoll
Aug 3, 2012, 2:42:19 AM8/3/12
to
mj_wi...@yahoo.com
Sep 24, 2012, 11:18:57 AM9/24/12
to
Like to add to the discussion:
I have an old DT240s set and it developped the horrible squeecking noise. Especially on low revs going steep uphill (Northern Spain) on the last 3 cogs. I have the DT toolset as well as the DT swiss special greases and do almost everything myself. It is NOT the QR. It must be wear and tear of the inner splined surfaces of either the hub or the body. These inward splines match with the outward splines on the star ratchets. One of the other members of the group happenedn to be riding a DT1450 set and guess what.
His wheel was squeecking as well. After 1 week I took mine apart; cleaned it and (since we were travelling I did not have my DT toolset with me) regreased it. The squeeck was away for about 150 kms but returned. I use Mavick QR's with lot of pressure (going downhill at 70 - 80 kph dictates that).
When I heard his noise I told him my diagnosis: it is the rear hub. It is not cracked rims; spokes or nipples it is something in the design of the DT240s hub is my conviction now.
Nevertheless I will take my wheel completely apart; push the bearrings out; regrease it all with the DT grease and see what happens. Problem is off course that I will not be riding it in the mountains untill next season (starting in March/April I start riding the Ardennes).
Anyway like to get feedback on my conviction that it is the splined surfaces having friction/play (after they have been used for xx miles).
Maarten-Jan
I have an old DT240s set and it developped the horrible squeecking noise. Especially on low revs going steep uphill (Northern Spain) on the last 3 cogs. I have the DT toolset as well as the DT swiss special greases and do almost everything myself. It is NOT the QR. It must be wear and tear of the inner splined surfaces of either the hub or the body. These inward splines match with the outward splines on the star ratchets. One of the other members of the group happenedn to be riding a DT1450 set and guess what.
His wheel was squeecking as well. After 1 week I took mine apart; cleaned it and (since we were travelling I did not have my DT toolset with me) regreased it. The squeeck was away for about 150 kms but returned. I use Mavick QR's with lot of pressure (going downhill at 70 - 80 kph dictates that).
When I heard his noise I told him my diagnosis: it is the rear hub. It is not cracked rims; spokes or nipples it is something in the design of the DT240s hub is my conviction now.
Nevertheless I will take my wheel completely apart; push the bearrings out; regrease it all with the DT grease and see what happens. Problem is off course that I will not be riding it in the mountains untill next season (starting in March/April I start riding the Ardennes).
Anyway like to get feedback on my conviction that it is the splined surfaces having friction/play (after they have been used for xx miles).
Maarten-Jan
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