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Tim Bradshaw
Jan 30, 2012, 6:29:15 AM1/30/12
to
I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
late now).
One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to
it.
So the question is: how much do these matter? In particular my
intuition is that for a traditional frame there was a big margin
between "a bit too tight" and "damage the frame / strip threads" while
for a carbon frame things might be a lot more fussy. But that's really
based on some notion that carbon is brittle compared to steel (which I
guess it probably is) rather than the perhaps more correct idea that
"writing torques on things makes them look more high-end".
(The reason this matters is that some of these are adjustments
(handlebars etc) that I tend do make on the first few rides, so I want
to know if I should lug a torque wrench around with me for a bit, or if
I can just use my old multitool thingy and do it all up a little too
tight to be safe: better than handlebars moving while on the bike!)
Thanks
--tim
result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
late now).
One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to
it.
So the question is: how much do these matter? In particular my
intuition is that for a traditional frame there was a big margin
between "a bit too tight" and "damage the frame / strip threads" while
for a carbon frame things might be a lot more fussy. But that's really
based on some notion that carbon is brittle compared to steel (which I
guess it probably is) rather than the perhaps more correct idea that
"writing torques on things makes them look more high-end".
(The reason this matters is that some of these are adjustments
(handlebars etc) that I tend do make on the first few rides, so I want
to know if I should lug a torque wrench around with me for a bit, or if
I can just use my old multitool thingy and do it all up a little too
tight to be safe: better than handlebars moving while on the bike!)
Thanks
--tim
DirtRoadie
Jan 30, 2012, 9:42:56 AM1/30/12
to
components, carbon stuff is indeed different and "altt" can be a very
bad thing. Carbon is incredibly strong and surprisingly durable but
fares relatively poorly when involved in clamped interfaces.
On things like handlebars, also consider using specific "carbon
assembly paste." It's a grease-like paste containing a fine abrasive
like fumed silica in it to provide some "tooth" to minimize undesired
movement without having to resort to excessive clamping force. Some
folks have suggested that toothpaste also works as a readily available
substitute for the real stuff.
You may also want to experiment a bit with your torque wrench at home
to develop a feel for the rated torques so that you can make
adjustments on the road with simpler tools.
But for carbon, "too tight" is, in fact, too tight.
DR
kolldata
Jan 30, 2012, 10:08:18 AM1/30/12
to
lotta posts in RBT on this....try optimizing english language
searching in RBT and online..its magic....
'your manufacturer' has the specs...email or call....
we also hear rumors of LBS crunching parts using a torque wrench....
search 'TORQUE LUBRICATION EFFECTS'
IF NEW to this area, get a board, nuts, bolts, drill, insert and
torque by hand then measure with wrench....try balsa ? fiberglass from
the boat yard...
after yawl get a grip opn it, yawl find an ability to not snap
anything off...just feels that way
locktite is a biggie here as with lock, snug is enough.
searching in RBT and online..its magic....
'your manufacturer' has the specs...email or call....
we also hear rumors of LBS crunching parts using a torque wrench....
search 'TORQUE LUBRICATION EFFECTS'
IF NEW to this area, get a board, nuts, bolts, drill, insert and
torque by hand then measure with wrench....try balsa ? fiberglass from
the boat yard...
after yawl get a grip opn it, yawl find an ability to not snap
anything off...just feels that way
locktite is a biggie here as with lock, snug is enough.
Lou Holtman
Jan 30, 2012, 10:33:17 AM1/30/12
to
Remember what you want to change.
Make change at home.
Test new setup next ride.
Or
Use carbon paste.
Change set up on your ride and tighten the bolts very conservative.
There is a margin between tightened very conservative and moving the
bars while riding when you avoid rough terrain.
At home tighten the bolts further with the specd torque.
Or
Take you torque wrench with you.
Never torque a bit too high.
Lou
Duane Hebert
Jan 30, 2012, 11:27:39 AM1/30/12
to
brake mount but that's about it. I would say that any place that specs
a torque, you should use it. Carbon frames are probably not as brittle
as I'm afraid they are (never known someone who cracked one) but they
are certainly expensive enough to take care.
Tim Bradshaw
Jan 30, 2012, 11:44:34 AM1/30/12
to
On 2012-01-30 16:27:39 +0000, Duane Hebert said:
> I'm with DR. I would probably hand tighten a bottle cage or maybe a
> brake mount but that's about it. I would say that any place that specs
> a torque, you should use it. Carbon frames are probably not as brittle
> as I'm afraid they are (never known someone who cracked one) but they
> are certainly expensive enough to take care.
Thanks (& thanks to the other people who responded). I'll carry it
> I'm with DR. I would probably hand tighten a bottle cage or maybe a
> brake mount but that's about it. I would say that any place that specs
> a torque, you should use it. Carbon frames are probably not as brittle
> as I'm afraid they are (never known someone who cracked one) but they
> are certainly expensive enough to take care.
with me for a while (it's not huge since it's a 1/4in-drive one for the
things I might want to fiddle with, and experience tells me that the
"remember to adjust when I get home" thing means I forget to do it). I
have the same fear about brittleness, and the same intuition that it's
probably not rational, but why take risks with an expensive thing as
you say.
Frank Krygowski
Jan 30, 2012, 1:28:35 PM1/30/12
to
Tim Bradshaw wrote:
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to it.
Sounds to me like you just came up with justification for buying a new
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to it.
tool. That in itself isn't a bad thing.
On steel and aluminum, it took me many years, starting as a kid, to
correctly judge "tight enough" vs. "too tight." Having developed that
judgment, I don't use a torque wrench except on really critical fasteners.
If I were to do something as unlikely as buy a carbon frame, there's no
way I'd trust my judgment, at least at first. I'd buy the tool and use it.
--
- Frank Krygowski
Tim Bradshaw
Jan 30, 2012, 5:44:06 PM1/30/12
to
Frank Krygowski <frkrygo...@gEEmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds to me like you just came up with justification for buying a new
> tool. That in itself isn't a bad thing.
>
Well, I wanted to get a 1/2 to 1/4 in adaptor, but could only find 1/2 to
> Sounds to me like you just came up with justification for buying a new
> tool. That in itself isn't a bad thing.
>
3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4 locally, and stacking them was just getting too much (I
know, order one on intarweb, but I feel better if I'm making some effort to
keep the last decent tool shop near me in business).
AMuzi
Jan 30, 2012, 7:22:26 PM1/30/12
to
Your 1/2" torque wrench can resolve small increments for
carbon bicycle frame fastener values? Mine can't. For
example, modern carbon frame seat post binder values are
typically 4 to 6nm, hard to see on a 0-10-20-30 scale.
Tools typically used for that application, such as the
Mariposa, are scaled 0~15nm by 1nm increments.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
kolldata
Jan 30, 2012, 9:39:56 PM1/30/12
to
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Torque-Wrenches/Torque-Range/0-150-in-lbs/?keyword=torque+wrench
exp with no wrench/wrench per Holtman...stronger you are, higher
torques are accurately possible or correct physical pulling position
with helper bar increases accuracy
with jug holders....and loctite only a seated bolt is
necessary...surely toy can seat a bolt after examing the seat for
flatness off course ! and bolt threads....and with lubing loctite.
the bars and uppper stem are no boig deal again per H.....find when
the works moves ubder your common pressure...somewhat loose is ok for
the eventual .8 crash
Dan Becker
Jan 30, 2012, 10:57:29 PM1/30/12
to
In article <jg5uua$qa4$1...@dont-email.me>, Tim Bradshaw <t...@tfeb.org>
wrote:
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them.
The other critical thing besides proper torque is carbon paste. Really.
FSA, Tacx, etc.
With its little beady grabby friction balls in goo, you really do not
need as much tightening as you think you need. And stuff like seat
posts don't slip when you use it. Even though it seems to you out of
the tube that it is a slippery thing.
Truly.
Dan
wrote:
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them.
FSA, Tacx, etc.
With its little beady grabby friction balls in goo, you really do not
need as much tightening as you think you need. And stuff like seat
posts don't slip when you use it. Even though it seems to you out of
the tube that it is a slippery thing.
Truly.
Dan
Tim Bradshaw
Jan 31, 2012, 4:12:50 AM1/31/12
to
AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
>
> Your 1/2" torque wrench can resolve small increments for carbon bicycle
> frame fastener values? Mine can't. For example, modern carbon frame seat
> post binder values are typically 4 to 6nm, hard to see on a 0-10-20-30 scale.
>
Another good point: no, it can't of course.
>
> Your 1/2" torque wrench can resolve small increments for carbon bicycle
> frame fastener values? Mine can't. For example, modern carbon frame seat
> post binder values are typically 4 to 6nm, hard to see on a 0-10-20-30 scale.
>
DougC
Jan 31, 2012, 4:55:58 AM1/31/12
to
On 1/30/2012 5:29 AM, Tim Bradshaw wrote:
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to it.
>
>
When I was shopping for a beam-style small torque wrench, the Park was
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to it.
>
>
one of the cheaper ones I found.
The Chinese clicker wrenches were less expensive tho, by about a third.
Peter Cole
Jan 31, 2012, 8:36:55 PM1/31/12
to
sells 1/4" clickers for around $12. I'd be surprised if the Park
wrenches aren't made in China, too.
kolldata
Jan 31, 2012, 8:44:55 PM1/31/12
to
WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
AMuzi
Jan 31, 2012, 9:01:18 PM1/31/12
to
kolldata wrote:
> WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
Sure. It's either that or a $7 T-allen without the scale!
> WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
Nothing keeps you from owning a better (range, scale,
display) model but 'freehand' isn't reasonable in some
situations.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=77966&group_ID=20317&store=&dir=catalog
Made in Kenosha, too!
kolldata
Jan 31, 2012, 9:49:48 PM1/31/12
to
On Jan 31, 7:01 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
> kolldata wrote:
> > WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
>
> Sure. It's either that or a $7 T-allen without the scale!
>
> Nothing keeps you from owning a better (range, scale,
> display) model but 'freehand' isn't reasonable in some
> situations.
>
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=77966&...
> kolldata wrote:
> > WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
>
> Sure. It's either that or a $7 T-allen without the scale!
>
> Nothing keeps you from owning a better (range, scale,
> display) model but 'freehand' isn't reasonable in some
> situations.
>
>
> Made in Kenosha, too!
>
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
and he's 1 mm too long....where have we heard this b4 ?
> Made in Kenosha, too!
>
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
and a target approach warning system EEYEYAHAHHAHAHHAH
no more EERRRRKKKKK !
SACRE BLUE !
and for the faithful carbonettes...
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#hl=en&sugexp=pfwl&tok=5jDp2vFarpjMhFDwK8PLwA&cp=15&gs_id=1i&xhr=t&q=white+lab+coats&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=white+lab+coats&aq=0&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=e616f04cfd1bf78a&biw=1152&bih=614
kolldata
Jan 31, 2012, 9:56:43 PM1/31/12
to
so the engineer is on a plane, gets a nagging feeling he left the gas
on, goes back and the venus probe has a shaft system assembled
backwards.......
yet properly torqued...
on, goes back and the venus probe has a shaft system assembled
backwards.......
yet properly torqued...
DougC
Feb 1, 2012, 12:26:05 PM2/1/12
to
On 1/31/2012 8:01 PM, AMuzi wrote:
> kolldata wrote:
>> WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
>
> Sure. It's either that or a $7 T-allen without the scale!
>
> Nothing keeps you from owning a better (range, scale, display) model but
> 'freehand' isn't reasonable in some situations.
>
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=77966&group_ID=20317&store=&dir=catalog
>
>
> Made in Kenosha, too!
>
When I was shopping I found the analog-dial torque wrenches--but
> kolldata wrote:
>> WORK ON A $3000 BIKE with a $12 torque wrench ?
>
> Sure. It's either that or a $7 T-allen without the scale!
>
> Nothing keeps you from owning a better (range, scale, display) model but
> 'freehand' isn't reasonable in some situations.
>
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=77966&group_ID=20317&store=&dir=catalog
>
>
> Made in Kenosha, too!
>
couldn't find any for less than about $140, which was more than I wanted
to spend.
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-D2F150HM-Tell-Tale-Pointer/dp/B000KL70RA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2
kolldata
Feb 1, 2012, 2:04:54 PM2/1/12
to
ahhhh kenosha..
ther's an inch pounder in here ?
usedtobe
prob is a Sears beam isnot linear, there's variation at low and hi
ends.
as expressed, itsa learned hands on reality....even with the TW
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=craftsman+torque+wrench+review&pbx=1&oq=craftsmen+torque+wrench&aq=3s&aqi=g-s4&aql=&gs_sm=c&gs_upl=1416l12621l0l17104l32l28l2l0l0l1l1445l11469l2-1.3.4.1.6.2l19l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
ther's an inch pounder in here ?
usedtobe
prob is a Sears beam isnot linear, there's variation at low and hi
ends.
as expressed, itsa learned hands on reality....even with the TW
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=craftsman+torque+wrench+review&pbx=1&oq=craftsmen+torque+wrench&aq=3s&aqi=g-s4&aql=&gs_sm=c&gs_upl=1416l12621l0l17104l32l28l2l0l0l1l1445l11469l2-1.3.4.1.6.2l19l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
kolldata
Feb 1, 2012, 2:14:46 PM2/1/12
to
yawl work on optimizing english search words ?
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#pq=how+to+diy+a+torque+wrench&hl=en&sugexp=pfwl&tok=jTc-9LQT0XbBcY-wgdomAg&cp=8&gs_id=1i&xhr=t&q=how+to+make+a+torque+wrench&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=how+makea+torque+wrench&aq=0b&aqi=g-b1&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#hl=en&sugexp=pfwl&tok=De5QfjgMSWfqz4Ci0hpXCA&cp=22&gs_id=2e&xhr=t&q=how+to+diy+a+torque+wrench&pf=p&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=how+to+diy+a+torque+wr&aq=0w&aqi=q-w1&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#pq=how+to+diy+a+torque+wrench&hl=en&sugexp=pfwl&tok=jTc-9LQT0XbBcY-wgdomAg&cp=8&gs_id=1i&xhr=t&q=how+to+make+a+torque+wrench&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=how+makea+torque+wrench&aq=0b&aqi=g-b1&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&hl=en&tab=gw#hl=en&sugexp=pfwl&tok=De5QfjgMSWfqz4Ci0hpXCA&cp=22&gs_id=2e&xhr=t&q=how+to+diy+a+torque+wrench&pf=p&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=how+to+diy+a+torque+wr&aq=0w&aqi=q-w1&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a053232b58faa6c4&biw=960&bih=512
thirty-six
Feb 1, 2012, 5:38:09 PM2/1/12
to
a memorable position, such as pointing up. Undo exactly half a turn
on each bolt and see if your adjustment can be made. After adjustment
is made, retighten each bolt exactly half a turn so that the key
points to where it originally was.
Tim Bradshaw
Feb 1, 2012, 7:16:41 PM2/1/12
to
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> When making your on the road adjustments, start with your allen key in
> a memorable position, such as pointing up. Undo exactly half a turn
> on each bolt and see if your adjustment can be made. After adjustment
> is made, retighten each bolt exactly half a turn so that the key
> points to where it originally was.
Good trick. And in fact you don't need the memorable position, just to
> When making your on the road adjustments, start with your allen key in
> a memorable position, such as pointing up. Undo exactly half a turn
> on each bolt and see if your adjustment can be made. After adjustment
> is made, retighten each bolt exactly half a turn so that the key
> points to where it originally was.
remember the amount you loosened it all by.
thirty-six
Feb 1, 2012, 9:22:42 PM2/1/12
to
On Feb 2, 12:16 am, Tim Bradshaw <t...@tfeb.org> wrote:
Cannot be relied upon unless you have used something (linseed) to
prevent the bolts turning freely. A mark with nail varnish will help
for those bolt/screw heads which have no indexing provided by the
manufacturer. Of course the acetone will probably disintigrate any
reinforced plastic composite within smelling distance. It looks like
it would be safer to have a whole new grease-free toolbox made up
specifically for a plastic bicycle. I'd highly recommend that plastic
bicycle riders use castor(-bean) oil on/in their chains if you are
unable to source a mineral-free suitable high-pressure product. Look
to Rocol as they are the originators of molybdenum disulphide
lubricants and have an extensive range. They do have transmission
chain lubricants, but I have not checked them for mineral oil content.
prevent the bolts turning freely. A mark with nail varnish will help
for those bolt/screw heads which have no indexing provided by the
manufacturer. Of course the acetone will probably disintigrate any
reinforced plastic composite within smelling distance. It looks like
it would be safer to have a whole new grease-free toolbox made up
specifically for a plastic bicycle. I'd highly recommend that plastic
bicycle riders use castor(-bean) oil on/in their chains if you are
unable to source a mineral-free suitable high-pressure product. Look
to Rocol as they are the originators of molybdenum disulphide
lubricants and have an extensive range. They do have transmission
chain lubricants, but I have not checked them for mineral oil content.
kolldata
Feb 1, 2012, 10:08:08 PM2/1/12
to
VALVOLINE SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION OIL at $14 QT
see NAPA
smile, leave walllet locked in car
see NAPA
smile, leave walllet locked in car
johnbs...@gmail.com
Feb 2, 2012, 5:46:11 AM2/2/12
to
doesn't effect cured epoxy although it can be used as a solvent for
uncured epoxy.
Cheers
John B.
thirty-six
Feb 2, 2012, 12:47:59 PM2/2/12
to
the most stuck together stuck stuff. I doubt I'll ever own a plazzy
bike, sounds a bit spazzy, but if I was obliged to ride such a
contraption (strange as it may seem) I doubt I would find your
assurance convincing.
Tim Bradshaw
Feb 2, 2012, 6:02:30 PM2/2/12
to
thirty-six <thirt...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> It looks like
> it would be safer to have a whole new grease-free toolbox made up
> specifically for a plastic bicycle.
I sailed GRP boats for years, no-one ever worried about solvents.
> It looks like
> it would be safer to have a whole new grease-free toolbox made up
> specifically for a plastic bicycle.
thirty-six
Feb 2, 2012, 8:18:22 PM2/2/12
to
On Feb 2, 11:02 pm, Tim Bradshaw <t...@tfeb.org> wrote:
As I remember many were affected more by sunlight than anything else.
kolldata
Feb 2, 2012, 9:10:12 PM2/2/12
to
On Feb 2, 4:02 pm, Tim Bradshaw <t...@tfeb.org> wrote:
there is a difference in thicknesses then on to structural properties,
structural design intentions....but we'll check with Holtman...
a residual 'steel is real' perspective is afoot, suspicions of
plastic frame manufacturers running a fast one thru us with materials
scrapped from vat bottoms...
one distinct factor is solvent, CRP/GRP surface area ratio and access
looking toward the unknown potential for removing liquids for future
repair.....
WATCH OUT THE MAST.....
structural design intentions....but we'll check with Holtman...
a residual 'steel is real' perspective is afoot, suspicions of
plastic frame manufacturers running a fast one thru us with materials
scrapped from vat bottoms...
one distinct factor is solvent, CRP/GRP surface area ratio and access
looking toward the unknown potential for removing liquids for future
repair.....
WATCH OUT THE MAST.....
kolldata
Feb 2, 2012, 10:08:51 PM2/2/12
to
and now a word from THE BILGE......
"UUUUUCCCCCCCKKKKKKK"
thirty-six
Feb 3, 2012, 9:07:07 AM2/3/12
to
On Feb 3, 3:08 am, kolldata <datak...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> and now a word from THE BILGE......
>
> "UUUUUCCCCCCCKKKKKKK"
If plastic hulls need plastic bail-out buckets, does a softening
> and now a word from THE BILGE......
>
> "UUUUUCCCCCCCKKKKKKK"
bucket stand up well to fire duties?
kolldata
Feb 3, 2012, 10:09:34 AM2/3/12
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direction on incompatibilty within a given use classification...using
the humorous example of sperm whale oil for space environment
lubrication.
If there are exceptions to this illconceived opinion with bicycle
frame maladies, we'd be amused to know of that.
I find the category 'carbon frame' amusing on road, in shop or in
print as the woes, delights of, and riders as a physical grouping are
exceptional. It's like being at the CPA convention in Venice.
thirty-six
Feb 3, 2012, 11:07:48 AM2/3/12
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kolldata
Feb 3, 2012, 1:53:54 PM2/3/12
to
>
> - Show quoted text -
Certified Public Accountant
what we see here is a serious cycling group having funds (just enough)
for an expensive and fragile bike who exalt on the road but do an
uncommon amount of izzit broken or will it break and when will
it....handwringing....and whining abt proprietary parts costs
where the oil field people do not look like uh CPA and throw it away
when it cracks.
just a weak attempt at humor......
thirty-six
Feb 3, 2012, 4:32:57 PM2/3/12
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racing it is not clear it is the right tool. I'd personally prefer a
titanium frame, should I find a time machine to go back 20 years on my
life.
kolldata
Feb 3, 2012, 8:50:13 PM2/3/12
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kolldata
Feb 3, 2012, 8:53:18 PM2/3/12
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>
> - Show quoted text -
Considered a Ti Tuscany via Lightspeed but the option disappeared.
> - Show quoted text -
However, was advised by LBS people following waiting to steal it....
Basically enough to worry and fiddle with without theft and a frame
cracking.
Andre Jute
Feb 4, 2012, 7:47:07 AM2/4/12
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On Jan 30, 11:29 am, Tim Bradshaw <t...@tfeb.org> wrote:
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to
> it.
>
> So the question is: how much do these matter? In particular my
> intuition is that for a traditional frame there was a big margin
> between "a bit too tight" and "damage the frame / strip threads" while
> for a carbon frame things might be a lot more fussy. But that's really
> based on some notion that carbon is brittle compared to steel (which I
> guess it probably is) rather than the perhaps more correct idea that
> "writing torques on things makes them look more high-end".
>
> (The reason this matters is that some of these are adjustments
> (handlebars etc) that I tend do make on the first few rides, so I want
> to know if I should lug a torque wrench around with me for a bit, or if
> I can just use my old multitool thingy and do it all up a little too
> tight to be safe: better than handlebars moving while on the bike!)
>
> Thanks
> I've recently acquired a flashy carbon-framed bike (realising as a
> result that I'm basically a lugged-steel-last-for-ever person, but too
> late now).
>
> One notable thing about it is that several of its fitments specify
> torques on them. I have a torque wrench but I really need one that can
> manage less torque and has 1/4in drive so I can easily fit hex keys to
> it.
>
> So the question is: how much do these matter? In particular my
> intuition is that for a traditional frame there was a big margin
> between "a bit too tight" and "damage the frame / strip threads" while
> for a carbon frame things might be a lot more fussy. But that's really
> based on some notion that carbon is brittle compared to steel (which I
> guess it probably is) rather than the perhaps more correct idea that
> "writing torques on things makes them look more high-end".
>
> (The reason this matters is that some of these are adjustments
> (handlebars etc) that I tend do make on the first few rides, so I want
> to know if I should lug a torque wrench around with me for a bit, or if
> I can just use my old multitool thingy and do it all up a little too
> tight to be safe: better than handlebars moving while on the bike!)
>
>
> --tim
I carry a small torque wrench for a couple of rides after fitting new
parts or making critical adjustments. Though my bike is lugged steel
rather than carbon, the difficult thing is to find a torque wrench
with a range low enough to give decent resolution. This is the one I
use, though in an older square-corner box.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&q=BBB+torque+Wrench&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15614327073229249417&sa=X&ei=LyUtT4XmOYHChAfhs6jRCg&ved=0CEMQ8wIwAA#ps-sellers
It is however also available under other names, with other bits, like
this one where you would have only to replace the T25 with a T20 to
make a complete kit for my Rohloff equipped bike. (8mm on the crank
bolts but the little torque wrench doesn't go to the torque required,
so I use a larger torque wrench for crank bolts, and anyway usually
have to over torque them for some reason, perhaps that I'm a masher).
Basically, you need two torque wrenches, one up to about 15Nm and up
to about 45Nm, with a bit of overlap. But you would only ever carry
the smaller one and then only for a couple of short test rides.
Off to fit a new stem and handlebar, armed with my torque wrench.
Andre Jute
http://coolmainpress.com/BICYCLING.html
kolldata
Feb 5, 2012, 8:25:40 PM2/5/12
to
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