ProLink lube: better than motor oil?
Bob Comiskey
any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
Sincerely...
BC
Joe Rutledge
quite a while. Chain lift appears to be good with it, but I'm not anal
enough to keep a record of cleanings, miles, etc.
Joe
"Bob Comiskey" <bobco...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3CEC469C...@attbi.com...
Joe Rutledge
clothes, if you're messy!)... tough to get rid of.
Joe again
"Joe Rutledge" <joe.rutledge*n...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1gYG8.68933$Md6.1...@news1.east.cox.net...
timhigdogspot
>Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better than
>any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
Pro link is great for dry dusty mtb riding, wears off quickly when wet though.
I like pedro's syn lube for wet riding and road riding, phils is good for
cable's and parts but a mess on the chain. And yeah WL sucks.
Tim
buaidh no bas
K&C Russell
it is fairly clean to the touch and does not pickup a lot of grit. In dry
conditions I wipe the chain down once a week and reapply Prolink. In the
wet I need to apply it twice per week. I started with a new drive train so
I will be carefully following the wear on chains and sprockets.
I doubt I would ever go back to motor oil. I feel it picks up too much
grit.
Kevin
"Bob Comiskey" <bobco...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3CEC469C...@attbi.com...
Harris
> Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better than
> any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
Probably no better than motor oil. But the container is more convenient
and will last a year or more. And Prolink smells better. When the
container is empty, you can re-fill it from a quart bottle of motor oil.
That quart will last you a lifetime.
Art Harris
Matt A. Locker
Tim:
If you don't like to mess with your chain, try Finish Line Century Lube. Lasts
forever, will NOT come off in rain, works great, picks up lots of dirt, gets
ugly. Wipe off chain well after putting it on, and infrequently after.
If you don't mind messing with your chain, try Pedro's IceWax. It's not really
durable enough for a century, but anything less it works fine. Put it on the
day before you ride, I don't wipe off the excess. Stays clean, withstands
rain well if applied the day before - I actually think IceWax is quieter in
the rain than in the dry!
Tri-flow is good, but comes off easily in rain and makes a mess of everything
at the same time.
MOO,
Matt
TBGibb
writes:
>Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better than
>any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
Chain saw bar oil. It's intended for chains. Higher speed chains than most of
us turn but chains just the same. Cheap too. I cut it with a little WD40 as a
carrier so it will flow into the chain better.
I tried "Krytech" and ruined a chain and cassette in about 400 miles.
Tom Gibb <TBG...@aol.com>
B. Sanders
news:20020523095124...@mb-ca.aol.com...
> In article <3CEC469C...@attbi.com>, Bob Comiskey
<bobco...@attbi.com>
> writes:
>
> >Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better than
> >any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
>
> Chain saw bar oil. It's intended for chains. Higher speed chains than
most of
> us turn but chains just the same. Cheap too. I cut it with a little WD40
as a
> carrier so it will flow into the chain better.
Seems like a great lube formula. Now bottle this stuff in 4oz bottles and
sell it as "TechLube" from TG Industries for $10 a whack and make a million
dollars the easy way - by selling to suckers. As somebody once pointed out,
make your home brew lube smell good by squirting in a jigger of cheap
perfume. TriFlow smells like bananas. Make yours smell like money or a new
car.
> I tried "Krytech" and ruined a chain and cassette in about 400 miles.
THIS is the kind of information that we all need when deciding which lube to
use. Krytech gets checked off my list (not that it was on my list in the
first place...)
Barry
Matt O'Toole
"B. Sanders" <bcs...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:acj5cu$dud$1...@wildfire.prairienet.org...
> "TBGibb" <tbg...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20020523095124...@mb-ca.aol.com...
> > In article <3CEC469C...@attbi.com>, Bob Comiskey
> <bobco...@attbi.com>
> > writes:
> > >Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better
than
> > >any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
> > Chain saw bar oil. It's intended for chains. Higher speed chains than
> most of
> > us turn but chains just the same. Cheap too. I cut it with a little
WD40
> as a
> > carrier so it will flow into the chain better.
> Seems like a great lube formula. Now bottle this stuff in 4oz bottles and
> sell it as "TechLube" from TG Industries for $10 a whack and make a
million
> dollars the easy way - by selling to suckers.
Phil Wood has beaten you to it. Apparently, Tenacious Oil is actually
repackaged chain saw bar oil.
Matt O.
B. Sanders
"Matt O'Toole" <ma...@deltanet.com> wrote in message
news:Bn9H8.4124$fg3.1...@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, but TechLube from TG Industries has "proprietary flow enhancers" which
allow "maximum penetration" of the chain. It's also "water repellant" and
"smells like money."
Phil Wood doesn't stand a chance.
Barry
Morgan Kinne
news:SJ9H8.12521$352.1101@sccrnsc02...
>
> Yes, but TechLube from TG Industries has "proprietary flow enhancers"
which
> allow "maximum penetration" of the chain. It's also "water repellant" and
> "smells like money."
>
> Phil Wood doesn't stand a chance.
>
> Barry
>
ired old chain could use some of it! I did a google search but couldn't find
their web site and my LBS has bever heard of it! ;-)
Morgan
Mike Krueger
and will last a year or more. And Prolink smells better. When the
container is empty, you can re-fill it from a quart bottle of motor oil.
That quart will last you a lifetime.
Art Harris >>
You LIKE the smell of ProLink? I know a girl who likes the smell of
skunks-really. Maybe I could introduce you?
Chris
mineral spirits (paint thinner). For about $7 you'll have 5 quarts -- a
lifetime supply. I mix it up in an old liter waterbottle and refill my old
ProLink bottle from there. At this price I also use it as a cleaner. You
can vary the mix, e.g, 6:1 for parts cleaning.
"Bob Comiskey" <bobco...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3CEC469C...@attbi.com...
David Kunz
>
> Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better than
> any old motor oil or Phil's Tenacious, or is it just more hype-o-rama?
For me it was, but I like FinishLine red-cap better. The major problem
that I had with ProLink was that it didn't handle water well. Be
liberal with it when you apply it and wipe off the excess.
Oily lubes (like Phil's or FinishLine green-cap) don't work for me
because I often get into dust which quickly turns it into grinding
paste. Wax based lubes don't last long enough for my ride lengths and
are gone in the first water crossing. TriFlow also didn't last long
enough for my ride lengths.
I may try the mineral-spirits/synthetic oil suggestion.
--
David
Gary Mishler
>
> Okay, so I was duped into trying White Lightning. Is Prolink better ... <
Chain lubes are one area that cyclists are the most passionate about, and
where we like to disagree the most.
White Lighting - people seem to love it or hate it. I too fell for the WL
"hype" briefly until my favorite bike mechanic had my chain and cassette on
the bench and showed me that all it really does is just gum up. He
recommended Finish Line Wet (green cap) as a good all purpose, heavy duty
chain lube. The Finish Line seemed to do a good job (especially on long
and/or wet rides) but you had to be sure to wipe the chain down REAL good
each ride or it would attract grime pretty easily.
Lately I have switched to Boeshield and have had very good luck with it.
Goes on clean, stays pretty clean, doesn't come off when wet and the chain
seems quiet and happy. It was developed by Boeing aircraft for use in civil
and military jet aircraft. Being a professional pilot, it seemed like a
logical choice for me <grin>. I see that it's becoming available at more
and more bike stores as I travel around.
I'm planning on using Boeshield as my primary chain lube but would maybe use
Finish Line wet when I go on long rides in rough conditions (like RAGBRAI or
similar).
"Bob Comiskey" <bobco...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3CEC469C...@attbi.com...
Arthur Shapiro
>You can make ProLink like product by cutting Mobil 1, 5W/30 with 4 parts
>mineral spirits (paint thinner).
I've used ProLink for a couple years, approaching 15K miles, and am happy. A
question about Chris' claim, which is similar to others that have appeared in
this newsgroup: Generally it is synthetic oil which is diluted by some ratio.
What does the synthetic do that traditional motor oil doesn't do? Is it less
likely to pick up grit and dirt, or does it actually lubricate better, have
better penetrating properties, or what?
Art
John Albergo
Bob Comiskey wrote:
Stay away from anything that claims to have "friction reducers".
Phil's is a little heavier than 10w-30, which makes it a little harder
to wipe down after you apply. On the other hand Phils has a
"big-machine" sulfur smell, like manual transmission oil, which makes it
seem a bit more serious. Their grease smells like that too. I kind of
like it.
Phil Wood & Co
"Matt O'Toole" <ma...@deltanet.com> wrote in message news:<Bn9H8.4124$fg3.1...@news1.news.adelphia.net>...
> > Seems like a great lube formula. Now bottle this stuff in 4oz bottles and
> > sell it as "TechLube" from TG Industries for $10 a whack and make a
> million
> > dollars the easy way - by selling to suckers.
>
> Phil Wood has beaten you to it. Apparently, Tenacious Oil is actually
> repackaged chain saw bar oil.
>
> Matt O.
The primary ingredient of our Tenacious Oil is a high grade "way
lube", not chain bar lube.
We also add rust inhibitors, antioxidants, and other proprietary
components you will find very little if any of these components in
chain bar oil.
Chain bar contains pitch dissolver (basically solvent), this may be
cool for your chain, not mine.
In 1972 when Phil came up with the FIRST formula for our oil loggers
were using 30wt oil, chain bar didn't exist as far as we know.
Please get the facts straight before you go speculating about our
business practices publicly.
Take care,
Brent
Phil Wood & Co.
Joe Rutledge
"rust inhibitors, antioxidants, and other proprietary components..." Gee,
sounds like plain ol' motor oil to me!!
I'm in no way trying to imply anything about the quality of the product, but
let's cut the SNAKE OIL MARKETING shit!!
Joe
"Phil Wood & Co" <br...@philwood.com> wrote in message
news:55b2de60.02052...@posting.google.com...
A Muzi
> news:<Bn9H8.4124$fg3.1...@news1.news.adelphia.net>...
> > > Phil Wood has beaten you to it. Apparently, Tenacious Oil is actually
> > > repackaged chain saw bar oil.
> "Phil Wood & Co" <br...@philwood.com> elucidated, or tried to, in message
> news:55b2de60.02052...@posting.google.com...
> > The primary ingredient of our Tenacious Oil is a high grade "way
> > lube", not chain bar lube.
> > We also add rust inhibitors, antioxidants, and other proprietary
> > components you will find very little if any of these components in
> > chain bar oil.
> > Chain bar contains pitch dissolver (basically solvent), this may be
> > cool for your chain, not mine.
> > In 1972 when Phil came up with the FIRST formula for our oil loggers
> > were using 30wt oil, chain bar didn't exist as far as we know.
> > Please get the facts straight before you go speculating about our
> > business practices publicly.
"Joe Rutledge" <joe.rutledge*n...@cox.net> off on a tangent of his own, wrote
in message news:yvtI8.91352$Md6.3...@news1.east.cox.net...
> OK, now let's speculate what "high grade "way lube"..." is... ;-)
>
> "rust inhibitors, antioxidants, and other proprietary components..." Gee,
> sounds like plain ol' motor oil to me!!
>
> I'm in no way trying to imply anything about the quality of the product,
but
> let's cut the SNAKE OIL MARKETING shit!!
There _are_ people who commit marketing on a gullible public. In my
experience Phil's staff is not guilty.
"Way lube" is used to lubricate the ways of machine tool slides and ways.
"High grade" oils have fewer impurities and corrosives.
Buy it or don't but let's not bash the guys who are at least trying.
--
Andrew Muzi
http://www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April 1971
Keith L.
A Muzi wrote in message <3cf2a0db$0$3576$272e...@news.execpc.com>...
They may be trying but I still would like to know what's the difference
between a rust inhibitor and an antioxidant. Or why high quality way lube
is even needed on a bicycle chain.
Phil Wood & Co
Rust inhibitors and antioxidants do the same thing, they may be called
different names by the refineries and distributors and even have
different properties in some cases, but the job is the same in all
cases, prevent rust,oxidation, and corrosion.
I never used the word needed regarding the way lube. High grade way
lube is what we deemed best for the type of lubricant we were
blending. It is designed to reduce friction in extreme pressure metal
on metal applications.
R. Himm
In article <55b2de60.02052...@posting.google.com>,
br...@philwood.com (Phil Wood & Co) wrote:
> > >> "Phil Wood & Co" <br...@philwood.com> elucidated, or tried to, in message
> > >> news:55b2de60.02052...@posting.google.com...
> > >> > The primary ingredient of our Tenacious Oil is a high grade "way
> > >> > lube", not chain bar lube.
> > >> > We also add rust inhibitors, antioxidants, and other proprietary
> > >> > components you will find very little if any of these components in
> > >> > chain bar oil.
> > >> > Chain bar contains pitch dissolver (basically solvent), this may be
> > >> > cool for your chain, not mine.
> > >> > In 1972 when Phil came up with the FIRST formula for our oil loggers
> > >> > were using 30wt oil, chain bar didn't exist as far as we know.
> > >> > Please get the facts straight before you go speculating about our
> > >> > business practices publicly.
>
> Rust inhibitors and antioxidants do the same thing, they may be called
> different names by the refineries and distributors and even have
> different properties in some cases, but the job is the same in all
> cases, prevent rust,oxidation, and corrosion.
> I never used the word needed regarding the way lube. High grade way
> lube is what we deemed best for the type of lubricant we were
> blending. It is designed to reduce friction in extreme pressure metal
> on metal applications.
First of all thank you for posting information to the group, something few
manufacturers do, probably because so many on usenet are such idiots. You
may come to that conclusion soon too, but before you do, perhaps I can
solicit the answer to one more question:
Why would you not want solvent in chain lube? On this group this has been
recommended, as a way of getting a higher viscosity lube into the inner
workings, after which the solvent carrier is supposed to evaporate.
Thanks.
Shifter
I bought some of the tenacious oil once, but did not use it on the chain.
It seemed thick and sticky to me. I thought it would attract dirt faster
and gum the chain up sooner than WD-40 or Pro Link.
Is this true?
Will your oil penetrate inside the bushings on my chain?
Phil Wood & Co
Solvent is required with some types of lubricants for the exact reason
you stated above. There is no reason to use a solvent with our
lubricant as it has excellent penetrating characteristics.
My pleasure.