The belt is in one piece, and seems to work, but I cannot imagine it
will last for long if she gives the rollers serious use. The drums
are 4.5" diameter poly items. Current Performance products have
smaller diameter drums. I'm wondering whether a Kreitler 4.5" roller
belt (72" long by 1/4") would work as a replacement?
If so, I'm wondering where to get one. Performance lists the part for
$19.95, but it is "Out of Stock".
"Rubber (stock) suppliers" ?
I looked at Kreitler's site, and they also have a 72" by 3/16" belt
listed as being for Kreitler units 20+ years old. The existing belt
looks to be that size.
Excuse me, but "looks to be"... does that mean you measured the
diameter with a measuring instrument?
If that old belt isn't cracked and still has a little stretch in it,
you're probably good to go. I have one that is ??? years old and still
works (I think-- well, as of 6 months or so ago it did).
Kreitler invites orders via phone, if your friendly local bike shop
doesn't carry roller belts.
--D-y
Measure the belt and see if you can get one of the generic
replacements offerred by many of the online retailers. Google "roller
belt" and you'll see what I mean. The old Tackx belt would probably
fit, too. The Kreitler belt is going to be the most expensive thing
you can buy. -- Jay Beattie.
Colin,
Or you can source o-ring material in the correct diameter and length and
glue the ends together with super glue. Cut the ends at a shallow angle (30
degrees?).
Kerry
A standard poly roller belt should not be over $20 and
usually less at any competent LBS. Rubber belts don't last
as long, similar price.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Kerry Montgomery wrote:
> Or you can source o-ring material in the correct diameter and length and
> glue the ends together with super glue. Cut the ends at a shallow angle (30
> degrees?).
Super glue on rubber or Viton? Did you do that successfully?
The superior poly belts just melt together at the seam with
a cigarette lighter.
OK, thanks everyone - looks like this won't be a big problem. I'll
check the LBS tomorrow.
Andrew,
Yep, on rubber. Just looked at the belt again - it's at least 20 years old
(not many miles on it in the last 10 years, though). The glue joint still
looks fine. May not be o-ring material - it has a mold (extrusion?) line
along the center of each side. It was purchased cheaply from a hardware
store.
Kerry
yeah getta white one eeeyach or clear one, that's trick
You can Super Glue the rubber belts? Amazing. I have these short
belts on the old Tackx fans on my rollers, and both have broken -- and
I can't find the proper replacement. I'll give it a try. -- Jay
Beattie.
and Jay, report back puhlease.
>You can Super Glue the rubber belts? Amazing. I have these short
>belts on the old Tackx fans on my rollers, and both have broken -- and
>I can't find the proper replacement. I'll give it a try. -- Jay
>Beattie.
Yep. I've used Super Glue (cyranoacrylate adhesive) for fixing tape
recorders and record turntables using continuous O-ring material. I've
fixed an old Nashbar branded roller, where the O-ring had severely
stretched over the years. I just chopped out a piece and glued the
ends together, thus tightening the o-ring. Prior to that, I used a
piece of nylon rope with the ends melted together. The rollers had a
grove deep enough to grab the rope. The rope trick worked, but
sometimes slipped.
However, there are a few tricks. Use the regular Super Glue, not the
"gel" variety. Cut the rubber O-ring material with a sharp razor
blade, not scissors or diagonal cutters. The glue surface must be
flat. Make the cuts at about a 45 degree angle. The problem is that
while the rubber is flexible and fairly compressible, the glue joint
is not. If you crunch the glue joint, the glue might crack and the
joint fail. If you cut it at an angle, compressing the joint has less
of an effect than a perpendicular cut. That's a problem when using
the o-ring for sealing something that will compress the o-ring, such
as a plumbing joint, but not so much of a problem with the roller.
With a diagonal cut, you also have a larger contact surface for
strength.
I'm not sure if Super Glue is the best adhesive for the purpose. I've
done some minor experiments with Gorilla Glue (urethane adhesive) on
rubber parts. It seems to work, but I've never used it for a belt or
o-ring. Still, I think it's worth a try.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
>> Kerry Montgomery wrote:
>>> Or you can source o-ring material in the correct diameter and length and
>>> glue the ends together with super glue. Cut the ends at a shallow angle
>>> (30 degrees?).
> "AMuzi" <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote
>> Super glue on rubber or Viton? Did you do that successfully?
>> The superior poly belts just melt together at the seam with a cigarette
>> lighter.
Kerry Montgomery wrote:
> Yep, on rubber. Just looked at the belt again - it's at least 20 years old
> (not many miles on it in the last 10 years, though). The glue joint still
> looks fine. May not be o-ring material - it has a mold (extrusion?) line
> along the center of each side. It was purchased cheaply from a hardware
> store.
I would not have guessed that. Thanks
SUPER GLUE is extremely brittle. I await Jay's test result. From here,
seams a coupla passes in tension AROUND a drum wood snap the glue if
not the bond.
Get a belt the correct diameter. Too small and it doesn't grip well.
To fat to fit in the grooves and it may snag. Think of your front
roller suddenly reversing direction.
> AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
>> I would not have guessed that. Thanks
datakoll wrote:
> SUPER GLUE is extremely brittle. I await Jay's test result. From here,
> seams a coupla passes in tension AROUND a drum wood snap the glue if
> not the bond.
Well, who ya gonna believe, our general misconceptions of
cyanoacrylate bonding theory or Mr Montgomery who says he
did it successfully?
Mine is just a fan drive belt anyway, so I'm not going to go whirling
off the rollers. That belt, however, might see more stress at the
joint since it is a smaller belt and goes over a small diameter pulley
wheel at one end. My fix may last for ten minutes, but we'll see. --
Jay Beattie.
I've used Gorilla Glue on smooth plastic that other glues wouldn't bond
to. I also use "PL" construction adhesive, which is also a urethane. For
rubbery stuff, I've usually used "Pliobond", and sometimes contact cement.
>SUPER GLUE is extremely brittle. I await Jay's test result. From here,
>seams a coupla passes in tension AROUND a drum wood snap the glue if
>not the bond.
If you cut the rubber o-ring perpendicular to the length, squashing
the joint will crack the glue and the joint will fail. However,
that's only a problem if the joint is in compression, as in a plumbing
seal. In this case, the joint is always in tension, which will not
crack the joint. There may be some flexing around the roller, but the
roller diameter is sufficiently large that it won't be a problem.
The o-ring should be cut very flat and at about 45 to 60 degrees with
a razzor blade. It does take some practice and a very sharp safety
razor. This angular cut will substantially increase the surface area,
giving more bonding strength. It will also decrease the
susceptibility to crushing as there is no position of the o-ring where
lateral compression can break the glue joint. I'm a bit worried if
someone steps on the glue joint, but that's unlikely,
As I indicated in another message, I've Super Glued the rubber band on
a Nashbar (same as Performance?) roller. I donated this roller to a
thrift shop about 3 years ago after I fell asleep riding and nearly
ran into my wood burning stove. I now have a trainer, which isn't as
good, but far safer. I know the person that bought it. No problems.
You could also try "Barge cement", which is a brand
named Barge, and not actually used for gluing barges
together, as far as I know. It is available in hardware
stores, and is often recommended for regluing the
soles of shoes. I have used it to reglue the sole of
a XC ski/telemark boot that peeled off the midsole,
and it seems to have worked well for that.
Performance products are often rebadged versions of
some other brand, and of course roller belts are fairly
interchangeable if the length and diameter fit. I'd try
an LBS that sells Tacx rollers and parts.
Ben