The literature says that you should use biodegradeable solvents, and,
surprise, Finish line offers a couple of them. I was wanting to use
kerosene or something similar and was wondering if anybody knew if their
recommendation to use biodegradeable solvents was pretty much intended
to get people to buy their products, or whether the plastic could
actually be damaged if I put kerosene into it?
thanks for any info
baird
--
All opinions are my own, not my employers
*********************************
* Baird Webel *
* we...@potomac.net *
*********************************
Kerosene won't damage the plastic in the least.
But consider the biodegradeable stuff, even if you get it elsewhere. It
may be expensive compared to kerosene but it is much safer to handle and
easier to dispose of. Besides, continual exposure to solvents such as
kerosene, thinner, etc. is not healthy. Take from me, one who used
kerosene for years in the 70's to clean parts on my motocross bikes. By
the 80's I had a variety of skin problems attributable to use of solvents.
(Yes, I was an idot. Due to large hands I never wore gloves).
Regards,
Troy
>I was wanting to use kerosene or something similar
Kerosene is a terrible parts washer solvent. You need a solvent action
to shift oil, but you also need a detergent action to shift road mud.
Some people brew their own, but the easiest is to go to a car spares
shop and buy some engine degreaser. "Gunk" is about the best; great
on chains but maybe a little excessive for general bike washing.
"Jizer" is a good all-rounder, although you'll need to scrub the oily
parts a bit harder. Both of these are European brands, but there's
bound to be a local equivalent. When not in use, store the cleaning
solvent in a sealed bottle or can - some of them (especially Gunk)
have volatile components that will evaporate otherwise.
Don't use carburettor or brake cleaner. These are usually either
toluene or xylene and are far too risky to use around plastics. They
also evaporate like crazy.
Time for some new toothbrushes too. You can never have too many old
toothbrushes in a parts washing tank.
You might consider contacting SafetyCleen to see if you can get some of their
solvent. I constantly cleaned parts in one of their parts washers during the
late '60s/early '70s and have suffered no skin problems as (anecdotal
evidence only). Standard disclaimer here. Today I clean parts with Simple
Green.
--
jeve...@wwa.com (John V. Everett) http://www.wwa.com/~jeverett
yes, I understand the hazards, and have used simple green up to this
point when I have just been cleaning stuff in an open pan, but it seems
to pretty much negate the point of having the neat little parts washer
where the sediment can settle out of the solvent 'cause the
biodegradeable stuff breaks down as it removes the grease so within a
couple of cleanings I would be putting new solvent in. I just want to
know if it will melt the plastic or something of the sort.
Mineral spirits is much better, and only a little more expensive. After
use, pour into a Large, laundry detergent bottle (the ones with the wide
neck, drip back spouts). After the bottle is about half full, you may pour
carefully (leave the sediment in the bottom) from the "used" MS for
cleaning dirty stuff - chains, cogs, etc. - and use new for clean stuff -
bearings, etc. Either way, dump back into the "used" bottle when done. If
it ever gets just too damn dirty to use, it's already in a jug for proper
displsal. Reduce, Reuse, are both in front of Recycle. I've been using MS
for years. For the last three or so, I've been doing this. Only about 2
gallons in that time (and the second one is still nearly full). Also,
Kerosene stinks.
Andy Dingley <din...@codesmth.demon.co.uk> wrote in article
<32cc219c...@news.demon.co.uk>...
> The moving finger of Baird Webel <we...@potomac.net> having written:
>
> >I was wanting to use kerosene or something similar
>
> Kerosene is a terrible parts washer solvent.
snip