To much puncture repair, not enough cycling.
James
I cannot remember the last puncture I suffered. I'd guess it was over
1 year ago. I cycle on average 10k km per year on mostly urban
streets, including some with watering holes and the requisite broken
glass outside.
After rides when I get caught out on wet roads I take a few minutes to
inspect for shards of glass or quartz that have worked their way into
the tire but not gone through to the tube, and remove them with a
pointy object.
I use Michelin Krylion tires and latex tubes, and carry two tubes and
a pump on the bike.
I haven't bother repairing an inner tube for years. If I get a
puncture I just throw the tube away and install a new one. The last
time I picked up a tube of glue it had dried out and was useless
anyway.
If thorns or other debris was a problem and my puncture rate increased
above hardly ever, I'd be using bigger, thicker and heavier tires, and/
or this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_BsT8D9JYY
JS
DirtRoadie
> How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
>
> I cannot remember the last puncture I suffered.
I wish I could say the same. And I generally have fewer MTB punctures
that road but that has reversed recently. In fact yesterday I suffered
another presta valve separation failure so the presta valve repair
test has gained some impetus. I should note that although a well-
intentioned individual suggested that discarded clamp-on replacement
presta valves should be readily available through local shop, none of
sub-30 mechanics or salespeople have heard of such a thing. Even if
existed in 2010, the older owners also know better than to _give away_
a discarded part when they could be _selling_ a new tube. The old LBS
- she ain't what she used to be.
DR
Tim McNamara
<ae696b5c-5592-4c5d...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com>,
James <james.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
> How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
Depends on where you live, I guess. I get 4-5 flats a year. People who
live in goathead country probably get lots more. Maybe people who live
in poorly maintained metropolitan areas, too.
--
That'll put marzipan in your pie plate, Bingo.
MikeWhy
"James" <james.e...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ae696b5c-5592-4c5d...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
Billy Mays lives!
I was feeling full of myself one day shortly after they mowed down the dense
brush that lines the path through part of the West Branch Preserve, and
explored on the MTB the deep reaches that I could barely only see before. I
came home with the rear flattened, and the front was just as flat by the
following eveining. The rear had a huge thorn still firmly embedded; the
front had just a small pin prick that could have sealed with just the cold
vulcanizing fluid, but I put a patch on it also. For the most part, the
Conti Town & Country work well. No punctures at all in more normal riding in
the 4 months I owned them. The road bike has Conti GP 4-Seasons, and seem
even more bulletproof, even on railroad ballast, sharp chip seal, graded but
unfinished road beds, and the usual nasty debris you find in "civilized"
areas. No punji fields for the road bike though, and I'll refrain even on
the MTB in the future.
Frank Krygowski
>
> Depends on where you live, I guess. I get 4-5 flats a year. People who
> live in goathead country probably get lots more. Maybe people who live
> in poorly maintained metropolitan areas, too.
I live and bike to work in a poorly maintained metro area, but I
normally get maybe three flats in a year. However, about two weeks
ago I got a year's worth - three flats - in one 30 mile ride.
Sometimes the puncture gods just demand their due.
- Frank Krygowski
Duane Hebert
> In article
> <ae696b5c-5592-4c5d...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com>,
> James <james.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
>
> Depends on where you live, I guess. I get 4-5 flats a year. People who
> live in goathead country probably get lots more. Maybe people who live
> in poorly maintained metropolitan areas, too.
I think it depends on your tires also. I was getting 2 or 3 a year until I changed
tires to kevlars and I haven't had one in 4000km on that bike. My new bike
has Specialized Mondo Pro Flak Jackets and I haven't had a flat yet at 2500km.
Having said that, I fully expect to blow out both tires on the way home tonight <g>
Andre Jute
Mmm. I have about 9000km on Kevlar and Aramid banded tyres, Schwalbe
Marathon Plus, the workalike Bontrager Satellite Elite Hard Case, and
the folding "lightweight" Schwalbe Big Apple Liteskin -- and in all
that time I've had no punctures and only two flats. The thing is, I
caused both the flats by being clumsy with those effing fragile Presta
valves, the curse of the non-racing cyclist.
I've given up taking my bike to the service station and pumping up the
tyres via an adaptor. Now I do it at home, manually, with an SKS
Rennkompressor with the new EVO chuck, which is a great big deep thing
that holds the valve firm so that you would have to try to damage the
valve; not impossible but less likely than with an Schrader adaptor
hanging off the end of a tall thin stem.
I don't carry a spare tube and have never opened the stampsized pack
of Park glueless patches I carry in my toolkit. I imagine those
patches have dried out.
Andre Jute
Reformed petrol head
Car-free since 1992
Greener than thou!
David Scheidt
:James <james.e...@gmail.com> considered Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:02:27
:-0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:
:>How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
:On my own bikes, I very rarely get punctures (now I've done it!)
:OTOH, I have 4 kids, all of whom ride, and the tyres that fit the
:bikes they ride are rarely available from the better quality ranges.
:In particular, my daughter's bike uses 550A tyres, which do not seem
:to be made by anyone these days, so at best are NOS or at worst,
:recycled from scrapped bikes.
Harris's website lists a 550A tire. I don't know if they actually
ahve it.
:>
:>I haven't bother repairing an inner tube for years. If I get a
:>puncture I just throw the tube away and install a new one. The last
:>time I picked up a tube of glue it had dried out and was useless
:>anyway.
:That seems pretty wasteful to me.
there are lots of people who can't patch a tube. Mostly it's because
they can't be bothered to follow the manufactuer's directions. there
are also people who are convinced that you can't patch a tube more
than once, or you should replace tubes when you replace tires.
--
sig 113
Steve Freides
> I haven't bother repairing an inner tube for years. If I get a
> puncture I just throw the tube away and install a new one.
+1
-S-
Dan O
It's a good skill to have if you ever ride very far. You can only
carry so many tubes, and as Frank related, sometimes when it rains, it
pours. It can really make somebody else's day, too, if they're an
unprepared noob walking their flatted bike (maybe the first and
probably the last time *they'll* ever try to ride a bike anywhere) and
you roll up and fix it for them with a smile and aplomb in nothing
flat.
carl...@comcast.net
Dear Tim & Frank,
So far in 2010, 245 rides, 3700 miles, and 36 flats.
As long as I average over a hundred miles between flats with Slime
tubes, I'm happy.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Jay Beattie
> In article
> <ae696b5c-5592-4c5d-874b-fb7681eec...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com>,
>
> James <james.e.stew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
>
> Depends on where you live, I guess. I get 4-5 flats a year. People who
> live in goathead country probably get lots more. Maybe people who live
> in poorly maintained metropolitan areas, too.
I've had a string of flats lately, but I think it is related to my rim
strip -- which is my own fault. I use a plastic strip in a Velocity
Aerohead, and it has stretched to the bottom of the spoke holes and
looks like the nipple heads have been shrink-wrapped. I need to put
some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is going in to those deep
wells and getting pinched. -- Jay Beattie.
Frank Krygowski
>
>
> Dear Tim & Frank,
>
> So far in 2010, 245 rides, 3700 miles, and 36 flats.
>
> As long as I average over a hundred miles between flats with Slime
> tubes, I'm happy.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel
Carl - Welcome back!
- Frank Krygowski
Jobst Brandt
>>> How can there be so much puncture repairing going on?
>> Depends on where you live, I guess. I get 4-5 flats a
>> year. People who live in goathead country probably get lots
>> more. Maybe people who live in poorly maintained metropolitan
>> areas, too.
> I've had a string of flats lately, but I think it is related to my
> rim strip -- which is my own fault. I use a plastic strip in a
> Velocity Aerohead, and it has stretched to the bottom of the spoke
> holes and looks like the nipple heads have been shrink-wrapped. I
> need to put some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is going in
> to those deep wells and getting pinched.
What you need is semi-stretch rim tape by Torelli (or Ritchey or Rolf
are some that I have used). These tapes fit snugly and do not sag
into spoke sockets as you described.
Jobst Brandt
Frank Krygowski
> Jay Beattie wrote:
> > I need to put some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is going in
> > to those deep wells and getting pinched.
>
> What you need is semi-stretch rim tape by Torelli (or Ritchey or Rolf
> are some that I have used). These tapes fit snugly and do not sag
> into spoke sockets as you described.
I've done very well with double layers of ordinary medical adhesive
tape, from the pharmacy.
- Frank Krygowski
Clive George
I went to one famous bike shop over here (no longer a retail outlet,
having pretty much gone entirely mail order) to buy bits to make a wheel
(among other things). I asked for some Velox rim tape. The owner, a well
known figure in the cycling business, told me I ought to use a plastic
rim strips instead (*). I stuck to my request. A couple of months later,
on a subsequent visit, I saw what he used in his bike business when
somebody walked past with a very large roll of Velox...
(* as well as telling me not to try building my own wheel. It was still
true 12 years later).
Jobst Brandt
>>> I need to put some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is going
>>> in to those deep wells and getting pinched.
>> What you need is semi-stretch rim tape by Torelli (or Ritchey or
>> Rolf are some that I have used). These tapes fit snugly and do not
>> sag into spoke sockets as you described.
> I've done very well with double layers of ordinary medical adhesive
> tape, from the pharmacy.
I don't like sticky tape because it melts from braking heat and it is
hard to remove subsequently. That's what I hate about Velox tape.
The semi-stretch Torelli and other tapes are readily removable and
easy to put in place having a reinforced valve stem hole.
http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us2&q=rim+tape+bicycle
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
> Frank Krygowski wrote:
> >>> I need to put some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is going
> >>> in to those deep wells and getting pinched.
> >> What you need is semi-stretch rim tape by Torelli (or Ritchey or
> >> Rolf are some that I have used). These tapes fit snugly and do not
> >> sag into spoke sockets as you described.
> > I've done very well with double layers of ordinary medical adhesive
> > tape, from the pharmacy.
>
> I don't like sticky tape because it melts from braking heat and it is
> hard to remove subsequently.
You must suffer much wheel problems if you need to remove your rim
tape. What specifically is the reason for this removal and how often
do you expect it to occur?
thirty-six
I suppose that's fine if you're buying undersized chinese junk which
will hardly hold up anyway, never mind after patching.
David Scheidt
:>
:>there are lots of people who can't patch a tube. Mostly it's because
:>they can't be bothered to follow the manufactuer's directions. there
:>are also people who are convinced that you can't patch a tube more
:>than once, or you should replace tubes when you replace tires.
:Hehe, I bet the tube manufacturers love them.
:I only throw a tube if the valve fails or the patches start
:overlapping, which gets into the realm of "not worth the bother, and
:it don't owe me anything anyway".
Yeah, well, we all suffer for it. Tubes are remarkably lower quality
than they used to be. Not just thinner, but inconsistent thickness,
poor quality stems, and all sorts of cut corners to sell them cheap.
I don't get that many flats (I've had three this year, all the same
weekend, on a tire that went from being "about worn out" to "what neat
cords" in abou 20 miles.), but it offends me to throw away things that
can cheaply and easily be fixed.
:That said, it's not in the tube manufacturers interest to make tubes
:that are too easy to patch - they'd rather sell you a new tube.
:I suspect they could use mould release agents that would work with
:rubber solution instead of needing to be sanded off, if they wanted
:to, but why would they put money into that?
Even in the absence of mold release, buffing does increase the holding
power of the cement. it also removes any contaiminents from the
surface, so it would be unwise to skip it.
--
sig 90
Lou Holtman
Right. There is nothing magical about Velox tape and there is nothing
wrong with plastic rim tape, just get the right width.
Lou
James
I've had the plastic stuff split at spoke holes leaving sharp edges
that cuts the tube.
Velox tape does not do this.
I have no problem with Velox tape because I don't have any need to
remove the tape.
JS.
Lou Holtman
Never had that problem. I use the Schwalbe tape. That's what my LBS
carry. Like I said you have to use the right width. Often people use a
too small rim tape because the right width looks too wide.
How often did that happen to you?
>
> Velox tape does not do this.
No but Velox tape can rot after a while when it gets wet often and it is
thicker which can make mounting the tire difficult.
>
> I have no problem with Velox tape because I don't have any need to
> remove the tape.
I use both and both can do the job.
Lou
Peter Cole
> Phil W Lee<ph...@lee-family.me.uk> wrote:
> :David Scheidt<dsch...@panix.com> considered Fri, 17 Sep 2010
> :>
> :>there are lots of people who can't patch a tube. Mostly it's because
> :>they can't be bothered to follow the manufactuer's directions. there
> :>are also people who are convinced that you can't patch a tube more
> :>than once, or you should replace tubes when you replace tires.
>
> :Hehe, I bet the tube manufacturers love them.
> :I only throw a tube if the valve fails or the patches start
> :overlapping, which gets into the realm of "not worth the bother, and
> :it don't owe me anything anyway".
>
> Yeah, well, we all suffer for it. Tubes are remarkably lower quality
> than they used to be. Not just thinner, but inconsistent thickness,
> poor quality stems, and all sorts of cut corners to sell them cheap.
> I don't get that many flats (I've had three this year, all the same
> weekend, on a tire that went from being "about worn out" to "what neat
> cords" in abou 20 miles.), but it offends me to throw away things that
> can cheaply and easily be fixed.
For me, it's simple economics. For the last few years, I've bought patch
kits for about $1.50 (6 patches). I'd guess I average at least 4 patches
before I'm forced to retire a tube (a dozen isn't unusual). With tubes
around $4.00, the "lifetime" cost with patches then is $6.00, vs. $20.
I'd rather spend the $14.00 on beer. Another factor is keeping spares
for all the various family bikes & tires, that amounts to at least a
half-dozen different sizes.
Peter Cole
I've done well with a single layer of it, although the thickness might
vary from brand to brand.
Jobst Brandt
>>>>>> I need to put some Velox tape in there. I think the tube is
>>>>>> going in to those deep wells and getting pinched.
>>>>> What you need is semi-stretch rim tape by Torelli (or Ritchey or
>>>>> Rolf are some that I have used). These tapes fit snugly and do
>>>>> not sag into spoke sockets as you described.
>>>> I've done very well with double layers of ordinary medical
>>>> adhesive tape, from the pharmacy.
>>> I don't like sticky tape because it melts from braking heat and it
>>> is hard to remove subsequently. That's what I hate about Velox
>>> tape. The semi-stretch Torelli and other tapes are readily
>>> removable and easy to put in place having a reinforced valve stem
>>> hole.
http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us2&q=rim+tape+bicycle
>> Right. There is nothing magical about Velox tape and there is
>> nothing wrong with plastic rim tape, just get the right width.
> I've had the plastic stuff split at spoke holes leaving sharp edges
> that cuts the tube.
You must be referring to the stiff Michelin solid plastic tape that
could crack. The Semi-stretch Torelli tape and others of that kind
cannot split and are the answer to the rim tape problem.
> Velox tape does not do this.
> I have no problem with Velox tape because I don't have any need to
> remove the tape.
It's not that it occurs often, but when changing rims or hubs,
un-spoking requires removing the tape and sticky tapes are a pain that
way. They also sag when hot from braking, not giving the tube the
protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in rims.
Jobst Brandt
David Scheidt
:James Steward wrote:
: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us2&q=rim+tape+bicycle
HOw is that possible? The tape is held in place by the inflated tube,
over the length of the rim from spoke hole to spoke hole. Velox tape
is woven tape made of fibers that aren't thermomelt plastic.
--
sig 50
thirty-six
>
> I don't like sticky tape because it melts from braking heat and it is
> hard to remove subsequently.
wHY DO YOU NEED to remove a rim tape, is there something WRONG with
your wheels?
thirty-six
It seems that if you build your wheels like Jobst does, then you
should avoid Velox because you'll need to remove it pretty soon
(probably due to 'rim' failure).
thirty-six
Yeah, but it's fun to watch all the varnish splinter and float in the
air.
>
> JS.
thirty-six
Really? I'll have to watch out for that. How many rain soaked
winters of British weather do you think they can handle, 10, 20 ,30, I
had no idea the tape rotted, neither did I realise it made my tyres
difficult to mount, i MUST BE 'DOING IT WRONG'. How should I mount
my tyres so I can experience this difficulty?
thirty-six
How often do you destroy your wheels like this?
> un-spoking requires removing the tape and sticky tapes are a pain that
> way.
That's bullshit, just cut them with mini-croppers.
> They also sag when hot from braking, not giving the tube the
> protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in rims.
FFS, no damage occurs to the tube from the SLIGHT dimpling of the
tape, which will also occur with a plastic tape. If it worries you
SO much, then use a normal wired-on rim, not a pseudo sprint rim, that
can never be.
thirty-six
It does dimple slightly. Use of excessive tyre pressure.
> The tape is held in place by the inflated tube,
> over the length of the rim from spoke hole to spoke hole.
Every time the tyre is re-inflated to an inordinately high pressure,
the tape probably slips microscopically. It is probably only relevant
to the foolish who use narrow tyres with latex tubes regularly pumped
in excess of 120psi for 'improved rolling resistance'. Unfortunately/
Fortunately our iron/steel roads have locomotives running on them.
Frank Krygowski
>
> It seems that if you build your wheels like Jobst does, then you
> should avoid Velox because you'll need to remove it pretty soon
> (probably due to 'rim' failure).
Nonsense, of course. I've built all my wheels "like Jobst does."
They've survived thousands of miles of loaded touring plus much other
riding (including commuting in the world's pothole capitol) with only
extremely rare broken spokes, and no rim damage beyond minor dents.
- Frank Krygowski
Frank Krygowski
> On 18 Sep, 14:44, Jobst Brandt <jbra...@sonic.net> wrote:
> >
> > It's not that it occurs often, but when changing rims or hubs,
>
> How often do you destroy your wheels like this?
>
> > protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in rims.
>
> FFS, no damage occurs to the tube from the SLIGHT dimpling of the
> tape, which will also occur with a plastic tape. If it worries you
> SO much, then use a normal wired-on rim, not a pseudo sprint rim, that
> can never be.
It may be, Trevor, that the service conditions of Jobst's wheels are
somewhat different from yours. What's the altitude change on your
favorite rides? That has an effect on rim temperatures during
braking. How much time do you spend riding on non-paved roads? That
has an effect on rim wear.
You've posted your, um, unusual ideas on wheel construction many
times, but I haven't noticed many converts. At the very least, your
rationale and explanations need some tuning.
- Frank Krygowski
Dan O
I recently replaced the original plastic tape that was on my LHT wheel
with Velox. It wasn't bulging down into the spoke holes too far
(yet), but was tending to meander and - weirdness here - the
meandering seemed to sort of strangely coincide with the rim's lateral
trueness deviation (!)
Velox tape installed... then peeled up and re-installed again after
rebuilding wheel w/ new hub. Life is good. Waiting for a reason to
do the other wheel. (Need to stock up on genuine Velox rim tape and
Cinelli bar tape again pretty soon.)
Dan O
<snip>
> (Need to stock up on genuine Velox rim tape and
> Cinelli bar tape again pretty soon.)
Some things are cheap *and* good.
thirty-six
> On Sep 18, 8:01 pm, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > On 18 Sep, 14:44, Jobst Brandt <jbra...@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> > > It's not that it occurs often, but when changing rims or hubs,
>
> > How often do you destroy your wheels like this?
>
> > > They also sag when hot from braking, not giving the tube the
> > > protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in rims.
>
> > FFS, no damage occurs to the tube from the SLIGHT dimpling of the
> > tape, which will also occur with a plastic tape. If it worries you
> > SO much, then use a normal wired-on rim, not a pseudo sprint rim, that
> > can never be.
>
> It may be, Trevor, that the service conditions of Jobst's wheels are
> somewhat different from yours. What's the altitude change on your
> favorite rides?
Irrelevant, changes in atmospheric pressure cannot affect the position
of the tape.
>That has an effect on rim temperatures during
> braking.
That'd ruin all the fun. We have mud, that tends to slow me down
enough when travelleig off-road.
> How much time do you spend riding on non-paved roads?
150hrs
> That
> has an effect on rim wear.
Seems fine to me.
>
> You've posted your, um, unusual ideas on wheel construction many
> times, but I haven't noticed many converts. At the very least, your
> rationale and explanations need some tuning.
My wheels do not.
>
> - Frank Krygowski
thirty-six
So why avoid using Velox tape, because the gum goes hard?
BTW you can't beat zero broken spokes, ever.
Frank Krygowski
I avoid using Velox tape as a matter of convenience. It's easier for
me to bike the half mile to the pharmacy and buy medical adhesive
tape. Try it! While you're there, you can buy a new pack of soft gum
for your chewing pleasure.
> BTW you can't beat zero broken spokes, ever.
:-) Why, with a properly built fully tangent wheel, tied-and-soldered
interwoven spokes properly kinked for suspension, fitted with circular
bracing wires of finest grade carbon steel, AND properly stress
relieved, with tension as high as the rim can bear, my wheels actually
manufacture new spokes as I ride!
For example, I'm sure that my tandem had a mere 36 spokes when new,
and it's now up to 48 unbroken spokes. Thus I've broken negative 12
spokes, which _certainly_ beats a mere zero!
(And unlike most people who have broken a mere zero spokes, I actually
ride that bike.)
- Frank Krygowski
James
> Op 18-9-2010 10:09, James schreef:
> > I've had the plastic stuff split at spoke holes leaving sharp edges
> > that cuts the tube.
>
> Never had that problem. I use the Schwalbe tape. That's what my LBS
> carry. Like I said you have to use the right width. Often people use a
> too small rim tape because the right width looks too wide.
> How often did that happen to you?
I only had a few punctures caused by the plastic splitting, until I
woke up to the cause and replaced the tape with Velox or some other
brand. I recall using some black tape that looked a bit like
electrical tape, but was far less stretchy, at one time.
> > Velox tape does not do this.
>
> No but Velox tape can rot after a while when it gets wet often and it is
> thicker which can make mounting the tire difficult.
Yes, some tires can be particularly tight. I helped a young bloke the
other day who couldn't shove his tire lever under the bead to even
start removing it. Told him he had girls fingers, in the nicest
possible way ;-)
I avoid wet weather as much as possible, so I haven't experienced the
rot problem.
Cheers,
James.
James
> James Steward wrote:
> > I've had the plastic stuff split at spoke holes leaving sharp edges
> > that cuts the tube.
>
> You must be referring to the stiff Michelin solid plastic tape that
> could crack. The Semi-stretch Torelli tape and others of that kind
> cannot split and are the answer to the rim tape problem.
Quite likely it was Michelin tape. I think it was bright yellow
stuff, and certainly not stretchable.
> It's not that it occurs often, but when changing rims or hubs,
> un-spoking requires removing the tape and sticky tapes are a pain that
> way. They also sag when hot from braking, not giving the tube the
> protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in rims.
I rarely get the opportunity to brake hard enough to heat the rims
enough for that to be a problem. Some mountains, like Mt Buffalo in
NE Victoria have some good tight steep corners, but I don't get the
opportunity to ride there often, unfortunately. As well, the tight
corners are near the top where the air is usually quite cool too.
Regards,
James.
James
> Every time the tyre is re-inflated to an inordinately high pressure,
> the tape probably slips microscopically. It is probably only relevant
> to the foolish who use narrow tyres with latex tubes regularly pumped
> in excess of 120psi for 'improved rolling resistance'. Unfortunately/
> Fortunately our iron/steel roads have locomotives running on them.
120psi in a 23C tire is ordinary to keep a reasonably heavy rider off
pinch flats.
Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are generally
lighter.
JS.
Lou Holtman
Yeah what the f*ck do I know after just 30 years of cycling?
Lou
Jobst Brandt
>>> I've had the plastic stuff split at spoke holes leaving sharp
>>> edges that cuts the tube.
>> You must be referring to the stiff Michelin solid plastic tape that
>> could crack. The Semi-stretch Torelli tape and others of that kind
>> cannot split and are the answer to the rim tape problem.
> Quite likely it was Michelin tape. I think it was bright yellow
> stuff, and certainly not stretchable.
>> It's not that it occurs often, but when changing rims or hubs,
>> un-spoking requires removing the tape and sticky tapes are a pain
>> that way. They also sag when hot from braking, not giving the tube
>> the protection it needs against stretching into spoke holes in
>> rims.
I recently changed from Campagnolo Record FW hubs to Shimano 7-speed
hubs requiring removing the rim tape to access spoke nipples, I have,
on other occasions needed to access spokes to change rims. Although
this occurs rarely, it's a pain to encounter sticky rim tape that
comes off in many small pieces. Semi-stretch rim tapes, like Torelli
Tape are a natural alternative, if their use has been experienced.
> I rarely get the opportunity to brake hard enough to heat the rims
> enough for that to be a problem. Some mountains, like Mt Buffalo in
> NE Victoria have some good tight steep corners, but I don't get the
> opportunity to ride there often, unfortunately. As well, the tight
> corners are near the top where the air is usually quite cool too.
It isn't HARD braking that causes heat, but rather steep and long
descents. Most of my rides include more than 4000ft of descent.
this is a classic one:
Jobst Brandt
Jobst Brandt
>> Every time the tyre is re-inflated to an inordinately high
>> pressure, the tape probably slips microscopically. It is probably
>> only relevant to the foolish who use narrow tyres with latex tubes
>> regularly pumped in excess of 120psi for 'improved rolling
>> resistance'. Unfortunately/ Fortunately our iron/steel roads have
>> locomotives running on them.
> 120psi in a 23C tire is ordinary to keep a reasonably heavy rider
> off pinch flats.
I prefer 28c size because they don't pinch flat when inadvertently
hitting a Botts Dot on a descent.
> Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are generally
> lighter.
To make up for that, they leak down faster than butyl tubes so they
require pumping more often.
Jobst Brandt
Steve Freides
> Dan O <danov...@gmail.com> considered Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:48:33
> -0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:
>
>> On Sep 17, 8:38 am, "Steve Freides" <st...@kbnj.com> wrote:
>>> James wrote:
>>>> I haven't bother repairing an inner tube for years. If I get a
>>>> puncture I just throw the tube away and install a new one.
>>>
>>> +1
>>>
>>
>> It's a good skill to have if you ever ride very far. You can only
>> carry so many tubes, and as Frank related, sometimes when it rains,
>> it pours. It can really make somebody else's day, too, if they're an
>> unprepared noob walking their flatted bike (maybe the first and
>> probably the last time *they'll* ever try to ride a bike anywhere)
>> and you roll up and fix it for them with a smile and aplomb in
>> nothing flat.
>
> And that in turn can mean that instead of dumping their bike in the
> back of the garage until it's in the way and they throw it out, they
> buy a patch kit themselves and keep on riding.
>
> I always make the point that patching isn't a big deal or very
> difficult, but how are they going to learn if nobody shows them?
I appreciate that some folks like to patch inner tubes, just offering
the point of view that not all of us choose to be bothered. Let's say
we argue that one gets a flat every, I don't know, 400 miles. If your
bikie habit is 100 miles a week, then you're talking about spending $5
per month on maintenance. Seems perfectly reasonable to me.
-S-
Lou Holtman
It is not a money thing. It is the attitude towards something that is
very simple to repair. You throw your car away when the ashtray is full?
Lou
James
> It isn't HARD braking that causes heat, but rather steep and long
> descents. Most of my rides include more than 4000ft of descent.
>
> this is a classic one:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yl72r82
Mt. Buffalo, but they missed a bit at the top, unfortunately. Long
enough, but not steep enough with corners you need to brake hard for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vducKLJbJ8Q
JS.
James
> James Steward wrote:
> > Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are generally
> > lighter.
>
> To make up for that, they leak down faster than butyl tubes so they
> require pumping more often.
Very true, however I have noticed that with my open pro front wheel
with Michelin Krylion tire and Michelin latex tube, and a Ksyrium rear
wheel with a Lithion tire and same tube, the front always looses
faster than the back. Tube changes make no difference (i.e. no slow
leak). I could go a couple of days before the rear has lost 10psi,
where as the front needs about 10 psi before each ride.
The only other differences are the tire and that the rear rim has no
rim tape because there are no spoke holes.
I wouldn't have thought the tire to seal well enough against the rim
to effect any sort of pressure seal, but what else is there?
Regards,
James.
James
> Op 19-9-2010 21:24, Steve Freides schreef:
>
>
>
> > Phil W Lee wrote:
What does a repair kit cost?
How long does the glue last once opened?
How often do I need to use it?
Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget it.
I only seem to puncture once or twice a year at most. That's 10k km
p.a. I can't actually remember the last puncture I had, it was so
long ago.
For the cost of a new tube, I'd rather be doing something more
productive than patching a tube that's probably perished by the time I
would need to patch it anyway!
Of course you don't throw a car away when the ashtray is full. You
don't smoke in the first place so you never need to empty it. But
seriously, emptying an ashtray is not quite in the same ball park.
JS.
Andre Jute
> I appreciate that some folks like to patch inner tubes, just offering
> the point of view that not all of us choose to be bothered. Let's say
> we argue that one gets a flat every, I don't know, 400 miles. If your
> bikie habit is 100 miles a week, then you're talking about spending $5
> per month on maintenance. Seems perfectly reasonable to me.
>
> -S-
The point of having a bike is to ride it, not to wreck your back, and
either wreck your saddle and handlebar instruments by turning the bike
over when you have to fix a flat, or by not turning it over wreck your
bike's paintwork at the forks and the mudguards when the bike is put
down without the wheel while you fix the flat. I carry a phone on the
bike in case of medical emergencies and as a secondary purpose to call
a taxi service with a van if I get a flat.
Anyway, I switched to Kevlar/Aramid armoured tyres in 2003 when in a
month I spent EUR 125 (the thick end of USD 200) on taxis, flat
fixing, new tubes, new tyres. I should have done it earlier, instead
of just accepting the cheap Conti crap my LBS palmed off on me that
flatted as soon as I rode out of his gate. Since then every flat I've
had (two or three, anyway less than a handful) were the result of my
own careless handling of Presta valves rather than penetrations from
anything on the road.
I don't understand at all why cyclists just assume fixing flats is an
axiomatic part of cycling, like perspiration; to me that appears to be
an attitude which arises from an exclusionary, gloating masochism
(just listen to Trevor abuse me for not fixing my own flats, directly
following this post) or at the very least from insufficient thought on
purposes and means, a failure of functionality that is perfectly of a
piece with the nastiness of roadie fashions.
BTW, despite advice here to junk the tubes on which I wrecked the
valves, I simply swapped in the inner gubbins of valves from cheap-
crap tubes supplied as spares by my LBS in days of yore, and then have
a good as new Schwalbe type 19A superleicht tube, an expensive item to
throw away just because a replaceable part got bent.
My advice to cyclists is: get Schwalbe armoured tyres; you won't look
back. They ride and last better than the crap that flats, which is an
unexpected bonus. So what if they're a bit heavier? You weren't fast
anyway.
Andre Jute
Reformed petrol head
Car-free since 1992
Greener than thou!
Andre Jute
>To much puncture repair, not enough cycling.
Hallelujah. High time someone said as much. -- AJ
Jobst Brandt
>> It isn't HARD braking that causes heat, but rather steep and long
>> descents. Most of my rides include more than 4000ft of descent.
>> this is a classic one:
> Mt. Buffalo, but they missed a bit at the top, unfortunately. Long
> enough, but not steep enough with corners you need to brake hard
> for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vducKLJbJ8Q
It's not ho hard one brakes but how long. I didn't notice any curves
in that video where brakes were needed. Even fast descent..., like
the following, one don't cause much braking heat:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/
You may notice that the curve shown is fast and is steep enough that
no pedaling is required.
Jobst Brandt
Kerry Montgomery
James,
Have you tried trading tubes between the front and the rear, to eliminate
the possibility that there is some difference between the two?
Kerry
(PeteCresswell)
>How long does the glue last once opened?
>How often do I need to use it?
>
>Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget it.
The one time my glue had dried out, it was a brand-new tube -
never opened.
Defective tube? Or is there a shelf life on the things?
If #2, the recurring cost of buying new patch kits would have tb
added into the cost of patching vs replacing.
--
PeteCresswell
Jobst Brandt
>>>> Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are
>>>> generally lighter.
>>> To make up for that, they leak down faster than butyl tubes so they
>>> require pumping more often.
>> Very true, however I have noticed that with my open pro front wheel
>> with Michelin Krylion tire and Michelin latex tube, and a Ksyrium
>> rear wheel with a Lithion tire and same tube, the front always
>> looses faster than the back. Tube changes make no difference
>> (i.e. no slow leak). I could go a couple of days before the rear
>> has lost 10psi, where as the front needs about 10 psi before each
>> ride.
>> The only other differences are the tire and that the rear rim has
>> no rim tape because there are no spoke holes.
>> I wouldn't have thought the tire to seal well enough against the
>> rim to effect any sort of pressure seal, but what else is there?
> James,
> Have you tried trading tubes between the front and the rear, to
> eliminate the possibility that there is some difference between the
> two?
I wouldn't wonder. Clement and other tubulars with thin latex tubes
required daily inflation to be ridden. Just because I found one that
lasted longer I wouldn't worry. This puzzle doesn't have enough
variables listed for me to try to solve. I'd inspect the components.
Jobst Brandt
David Scheidt
:Per James:
:>How long does the glue last once opened?
:>How often do I need to use it?
:>
:>Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget it.
:The one time my glue had dried out, it was a brand-new tube -
:never opened.
:Defective tube? Or is there a shelf life on the things?
Modern tubes of glue are laminates, consisting of aluminum and plastic in
layers; they're filled from the end, the end is folded shut, and
heated to seal. Improper heating can result in a tube that isn't
sealed properly, and evaporation of the solvent. The tubes aren't
perfectly impermiable, either, so there is a shelf life, but it should
be a couple years.
:If #2, the recurring cost of buying new patch kits would have tb
:added into the cost of patching vs replacing.
--
sig 40
James
> James wrote:
> > On Sep 20, 2:00 am, Jobst Brandt <jbra...@sonic.net> wrote:
> >> James Steward wrote:
>
> >>> Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are
> >>> generally lighter.
>
> >> To make up for that, they leak down faster than butyl tubes so they
> >> require pumping more often.
>
> > Very true, however I have noticed that with my open pro front wheel
> > with Michelin Krylion tire and Michelin latex tube, and a Ksyrium rear
> > wheel with a Lithion tire and same tube, the front always looses
> > faster than the back. Tube changes make no difference (i.e. no slow
> > leak). I could go a couple of days before the rear has lost 10psi,
> > where as the front needs about 10 psi before each ride.
>
> > The only other differences are the tire and that the rear rim has no
> > rim tape because there are no spoke holes.
>
> > I wouldn't have thought the tire to seal well enough against the rim
> > to effect any sort of pressure seal, but what else is there?
> Have you tried trading tubes between the front and the rear, to eliminate
> the possibility that there is some difference between the two?
I have put a new tube in the rear more recently I think. Again it was
so long ago, I can't remember exactly the sequence of events. But I
am sure there is no slow leak from a puncture in the front!
Maybe the two tubes are from a different batch and one is slightly
thicker? I won't know until I do some swapping and changing I guess.
Regards,
James.
Jobst Brandt
This subject has been beat to death here long ago. What these glue
tubes experienced is that a crimp on a lead tube is not impervious to
light volatiles and unless the glue tube is stored crimp end down, it
will outgas. Next time store your rubber cement, crimped end down, so
the crimp is holding liquid instead of gas.
Jobst Brandt
Andre Jute
>
> What these glue
> tubes experienced is that a crimp on a lead tube is not impervious to
> light volatiles and unless the glue tube is stored crimp end down, it
> will outgas.
Careful, Jobst, you might start a fashion that could become the next
TdF scandal, cyclists "patching-in" by taking their glue tubes out of
their toolbags, holding them upside down to sniff around the crimp,
then carefully storing them crimp down so as to recharge for the next
"patching-in".
Andre Jute
Prophet
Tom Sherman °_°
> On 17 Sep, 23:32, Jobst Brandt<jbra...@sonic.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> I don't like sticky tape because it melts from braking heat and it is
>> hard to remove subsequently.
>
> your wheels?
It seems that wear of the braking track (i.e. rim sidewall) does not
occur on Planet Trevor. However, this wear does occur with the use of
rim brakes on Planet Earth.
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.
Tom Sherman °_°
> [...]
> Of course you don't throw a car away when the ashtray is full. You
> don't smoke in the first place so you never need to empty it. But
> seriously, emptying an ashtray is not quite in the same ball park.
Most smokers dump their filthy butts on the ground for others to pick
up. There should be a $0.10 deposit per cigarette to discourage this.
thirty-six
> On Sep 19, 10:08 am, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > Every time the tyre is re-inflated to an inordinately high pressure,
> > the tape probably slips microscopically. It is probably only relevant
> > to the foolish who use narrow tyres with latex tubes regularly pumped
> > in excess of 120psi for 'improved rolling resistance'. Unfortunately/
> > Fortunately our iron/steel roads have locomotives running on them.
>
> 120psi in a 23C tire is ordinary to keep a reasonably heavy rider off
> pinch flats.
Yeah but it's too hard over anything but the smoothest roads.
> Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are generally
> lighter.
Unless you need to use your bike every day, then they seem to take a
lot of energy to run.
>
> JS.
James
<twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote:
> On 9/19/2010 5:15 PM, James Steward wrote:
>
> > [...]
> > Of course you don't throw a car away when the ashtray is full. You
> > don't smoke in the first place so you never need to empty it. But
> > seriously, emptying an ashtray is not quite in the same ball park.
>
> Most smokers dump their filthy butts on the ground for others to pick
> up. There should be a $0.10 deposit per cigarette to discourage this.
That's not anywhere near enough. A $10 deposit would possibly work.
All they'd need is an identifier on the butt to show that a deposit
had been paid.
I like the idea. Could we extend it to dog and cat turds? A $10
deposit on every tin or packet of food, filled with 100 micro
electronic tags. You get a $0.10 refund for every tag returned.
JS.
James
Care to elucidate?
JS
thirty-six
> I recently changed from Campagnolo Record FW hubs to Shimano 7-speed
> hubs requiring removing the rim tape to access spoke nipples, I have,
> on other occasions needed to access spokes to change rims. Although
> this occurs rarely, it's a pain to encounter sticky rim tape that
> comes off in many small pieces.
Not Velox then. Velox stays intact.
> Semi-stretch rim tapes, like Torelli
> Tape are a natural alternative, if their use has been experienced.
I thought they were a synthetic elastomer, latex based rubber being
unsuitable. Is there some other natural product I should be aware of?
>
> > I rarely get the opportunity to brake hard enough to heat the rims
> > enough for that to be a problem. Some mountains, like Mt Buffalo in
> > NE Victoria have some good tight steep corners, but I don't get the
> > opportunity to ride there often, unfortunately. As well, the tight
> > corners are near the top where the air is usually quite cool too.
>
> It isn't HARD braking that causes heat, but rather steep and long
> descents. Most of my rides include more than 4000ft of descent.
Hard braking does get the rims burning hot. Try emergency braking
from 65mph on a 1in10 grade.
thirty-six
wrote:
Keep the rims and blocks scrubbed clean and free from grit (scraping
and picking), or use ceramics. I don't use my brakes much, even off-
road but when I do I want them 100%. If I ever manage to split them,
I'll bind it all with tape to get home. I'm nowhere near that stage
on sprint rims.
thirty-six
Wow, get thinner tyres, ride in more risky places, enjoy your bike
more, I'm sure you can get up that puncture rate.
>
> For the cost of a new tube, I'd rather be doing something more
> productive than patching a tube that's probably perished by the time I
> would need to patch it anyway!
Better tubes don't perish, not in over 40 years.
>
> Of course you don't throw a car away when the ashtray is full. You
> don't smoke in the first place so you never need to empty it. But
> seriously, emptying an ashtray is not quite in the same ball park.
I've always found it easier and quicker to patch the tube in place
than to swap out for a fresh tube.
thirty-six
> Per James:
>
> >How long does the glue last once opened?
> >How often do I need to use it?
>
> >Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget it.
>
> The one time my glue had dried out, it was a brand-new tube -
> never opened.
>
> Defective tube? Or is there a shelf life on the things?
Yeah, like two days in the shop window, the solvent boils out,
sometimes you may see that the crimp has started to unfold. A clever
shopkeeper folds it back tight. Flick the cement tube each side with
your fingernail, this will usually show by deformation or sound that
the tube is basically empty. Be more clever than the crook shopkeeper
and use a scales to check the weight.
>
> If #2, the recurring cost of buying new patch kits would have tb
> added into the cost of patching vs replacing.
A way to extend the patch kits life is to keep it in a hermetically
sealed tin, and keep that cool.
> --
> PeteCresswell
thirty-six
> "(PeteCresswell)" <x...@y.invalid> wrote:
>
> :Per James:
> :>How long does the glue last once opened?
> :>How often do I need to use it?
> :>
> :>Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget it.
>
> :The one time my glue had dried out, it was a brand-new tube -
> :never opened.
>
> :Defective tube? Or is there a shelf life on the things?
>
> Modern tubes of glue are laminates, consisting of aluminum and plastic in
> layers; they're filled from the end, the end is folded shut, and
> heated to seal. Improper heating can result in a tube that isn't
> sealed properly, and evaporation of the solvent. The tubes aren't
> perfectly impermiable, either, so there is a shelf life, but it should
> be a couple years.
It's been a long while since I opned the end of a cement tube and it
was a simple crimp. Some of these were known to last ten years
unopened. The trick is to keep them contantly cool.
Steve Freides
>> I appreciate that some folks like to patch inner tubes, just offering
>> the point of view that not all of us choose to be bothered. Let's
>> say we argue that one gets a flat every, I don't know, 400 miles. If
>> your bikie habit is 100 miles a week, then you're talking about
>> spending $5 per month on maintenance. Seems perfectly reasonable to
>> me.
>
> It is not a money thing. It is the attitude towards something that is
> very simple to repair. You throw your car away when the ashtray is
> full?
No, I throw away my bike when I have a flat tire.
-S-
Steve Freides
That's the most sensible argument in favor of patching made here so far.
-S-
thirty-six
Nah, it gets chucked into my handlebar bag, it doesn't get hot enough
in there.
Tom Sherman °_°
mixed used trails and public roads, horse diapers [1] should be required.
[1] E.g. <http://www.bunbag.com/>.
thirty-six
I like your thinking.
Frank Krygowski
> thirty-six wrote:
> >
>
> > I've always found it easier and quicker to patch the tube in place
> > than to swap out for a fresh tube.
>
> That's the most sensible argument in favor of patching made here so far.
For me, anyway, it's definitely invalid in the rain.
- Frank Krygowski
thirty-six
Get yourself a cycle cape.
thirty-six
Actually, most times I either ride to shelter before fixing and/or
wrap some electrical insulating tape to hold the air. It blows wild a
bit on the coast as well, but there are occasions when the cycle cape
makes it easy compared to swapping a tube,
Kerry Montgomery
JS,
He may be referring to the amount of energy required to pump them up.
Kerry
James
> James wrote:
> > On Sep 20, 11:44 am, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> >> On 19 Sep, 09:18, James <james.e.stew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>> Latex tubes do absorb less energy than butyl AFAIK, and are
> >>> generally lighter.
>
> >> Unless you need to use your bike every day, then they seem to take a
> >> lot of energy to run.
>
> > Care to elucidate?
> He may be referring to the amount of energy required to pump them up.
I thought it was silly to run when you have a bicycle, but you're
probably correct, Kerry.
JS.
(PeteCresswell)
>> I've always found it easier and quicker to patch the tube in place
>> than to swap out for a fresh tube.
>
>That's the most sensible argument in favor of patching made here so far.
My best time for repairing a flat - from the time I dismounted
the bike to the time I got back on it - was nine minutes.
But, as Frank observes, all bets are off in the rain (and/or
mud).
--
PeteCresswell
Frank Krygowski
> On 20 Sep, 03:24, Frank Krygowski <frkry...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Sep 19, 10:21 pm, "Steve Freides" <st...@kbnj.com> wrote:
>
> > > thirty-six wrote:
>
> > > > than to swap out for a fresh tube.
>
> > > That's the most sensible argument in favor of patching made here so far.
>
>
> > - Frank Krygowski
>
I"ve got two. That doesn't change my statement.
- Frank Krygowski
Frank Krygowski
> On 20 Sep, 03:24, Frank Krygowski <frkry...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Sep 19, 10:21 pm, "Steve Freides" <st...@kbnj.com> wrote:
>
> > > thirty-six wrote:
>
> > > > I've always found it easier and quicker to patch the tube in place
> > > > than to swap out for a fresh tube.
>
> > > That's the most sensible argument in favor of patching made here so far.
>
> > For me, anyway, it's definitely invalid in the rain.
>
> > - Frank Krygowski
>
> Actually, most times I either ride to shelter before fixing and/or
> wrap some electrical insulating tape to hold the air.
???
Care to explain that bit about the tape in more detail?
- Frank Krygowski
Steve Freides
Or get a Superman cape.
Or get both in one - get a Lance Armstrong cape. :)
-S-
Jobst Brandt
>>> How long does the glue last once opened? How often do I need to
>>> use it?
>>> Last time I went to repair a tube the glue was dried out. Forget
>>> it.
>> The one time my glue had dried out, it was a brand-new tube - never
>> opened.
>> Defective tube? Or is there a shelf life on the things?
>> If #2, the recurring cost of buying new patch kits would have to be
>> added into the cost of patching vs replacing.
> This subject has been beat to death here long ago. What these glue
> tubes experienced is that a crimp on a lead tube is not impervious
> to light volatiles and unless the glue tube is stored crimp end
> down, it will outgas. Next time store your rubber cement, crimped
> end down, so the crimp is holding liquid instead of gas.
This is not as mysterious as it may first seem. When I discovered my
new tube of rubber cement nearly empty, even though the threaded cap
end had not yet been punctured, it seemed obvious solvents had not
escaped from a faulty cap, the cap being securely screwed down on the
sealed end of the glue tube. The obvious alternative was the crimp on
the other end, where the tube had been filled by the manufacturer was
the leak.
Therefore, since no glue was apparent on the outside of that end of
the tube, it was apparently sealed as far as the manufacturerand glue
were concerned, so it had to be evaporation escaping from the crimp
sealed end of the tube.
Because no liquid glue leaked with the crimped end at the bottom, that
defined the preferred no-leak position.
Jobst Brandt
thirty-six
When there is still a good amount of air in a leaking tyre, just wrap
the pvc tape around the rim and tyre at the point of the leak. You
can ride many miles as long as you are not downhilling. You have to
teach yourself not to use that brake, although I seem to have got away
with non-severe braking. Ideal if you are waiting to turn in the road
centre when detecting a leak. Takes twenty seconds to fix at the most
(including pulling the tape outa the pocket and returning it.
Frank Krygowski
Astonishing.
- Frank Krygowski
thirty-six
> On Sep 18, 9:20 pm, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 19 Sep, 01:15, Frank Krygowski <frkry...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > On Sep 18, 7:48 pm, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > > > It seems that if you build your wheels like Jobst does, then you
> > > > should avoid Velox because you'll need to remove it pretty soon
> > > > (probably due to 'rim' failure).
>
> > > Nonsense, of course. I've built all my wheels "like Jobst does."
> > > They've survived thousands of miles of loaded touring plus much other
> > > riding (including commuting in the world's pothole capitol) with only
> > > extremely rare broken spokes, and no rim damage beyond minor dents.
>
> > > - Frank Krygowski
>
> > So why avoid using Velox tape, because the gum goes hard?
>
> I avoid using Velox tape as a matter of convenience. It's easier for
> me to bike the half mile to the pharmacy and buy medical adhesive
> tape. Try it! While you're there, you can buy a new pack of soft gum
> for your chewing pleasure.
>
> > BTW you can't beat zero broken spokes, ever.
>
> :-) Why, with a properly built fully tangent wheel, tied-and-soldered
> interwoven spokes properly kinked for suspension, fitted with circular
> bracing wires of finest grade carbon steel, AND properly stress
> relieved, with tension as high as the rim can bear, my wheels actually
> manufacture new spokes as I ride!
>
> For example, I'm sure that my tandem had a mere 36 spokes when new,
> and it's now up to 48 unbroken spokes. Thus I've broken negative 12
> spokes, which _certainly_ beats a mere zero!
Careful, you'll be taking over jobtssstorytelling position.
>
> (And unlike most people who have broken a mere zero spokes, I actually
> ride that bike.)
>
> - Frank Krygowski
thirty-six
I also think this has been addressed many times recently, the nature
of the prevelant soil conditions also affects the wear rate for those
who insist on using rim brakes where hub brakes are the preferred
option.
thirty-six
Right, something else that is beyond you.
Frank Krygowski
> On 22 Sep, 05:23, Frank Krygowski <frkry...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > When there is still a good amount of air in a leaking tyre, just wrap
> > > the pvc tape around the rim and tyre at the point of the leak. You
> > > can ride many miles as long as you are not downhilling. You have to
> > > teach yourself not to use that brake, although I seem to have got away
> > > with non-severe braking. Ideal if you are waiting to turn in the road
> > > centre when detecting a leak. Takes twenty seconds to fix at the most
> > > (including pulling the tape outa the pocket and returning it.
>
> > Astonishing.
>
> > - Frank Krygowski
>
> Right, something else that is beyond you.
:-) Not beyond me at all, Trevor! I understand what you're
describing, as your description was excellent and clear. And I
readily admit I never attempted your tire repair method, nor seen it
described anywhere outside the comics pages of our newspaper. (But
IIRC, they tend to use white tape of some kind and have a very visible
knot tied in the tape. I think that's supposed to make it funnier.)
I'm once more amazed at your inventiveness, and astonished to find
that it actually works as well as you describe!
Please, can we now hear from all the others who have used Trevor's
"Tape the outside of the tire" technology to fix a flat? Did it work
as well for you as for Trevor? This is a "tech" group, after all, and
we should learn from each other.
- Frank Krygowski
thirty-six
> On Sep 24, 6:41 am, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > On 22 Sep, 05:23, Frank Krygowski <frkry...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > ["thirty-six" wrote:]
> > > > When there is still a good amount of air in a leaking tyre, just wrap
> > > > the pvc tape around the rim and tyre at the point of the leak. You
> > > > can ride many miles as long as you are not downhilling. You have to
> > > > teach yourself not to use that brake, although I seem to have got away
> > > > with non-severe braking. Ideal if you are waiting to turn in the road
> > > > centre when detecting a leak. Takes twenty seconds to fix at the most
> > > > (including pulling the tape outa the pocket and returning it.
>
> > > Astonishing.
>
> > > - Frank Krygowski
>
> > Right, something else that is beyond you.
>
> :-) Not beyond me at all, Trevor! I understand what you're
> describing, as your description was excellent and clear. And I
> readily admit I never attempted your tire repair method, nor seen it
> described anywhere outside the comics pages of our newspaper.
Ah, I think I remember those images, with a bandage tied in a bow. I
can't say that ever prompted me to use a roll of electrical tape in my
pocket for the first time. I was cold, it was wet, I was becoming
tired and I came across that first. The leak was slow, so I gave it a
go and rode on. Two or three wraps is good for at least ten miles.
> (But
> IIRC, they tend to use white tape of some kind and have a very visible
> knot tied in the tape. I think that's supposed to make it funnier.)
You could do that if you felt like, I'm not usually in a comical mood
when I resort to it.
>
> I'm once more amazed at your inventiveness, and astonished to find
> that it actually works as well as you describe!
It will not necessarily work on large glass shards, but works welll on
small flints, thorns, tacks. Just tape them secure.
Lou Holtman
You have to bring tape with you all the time, and my experience is that
you can't hear a little leak especially when it's windy or in the
traffic noise. I'll pass, but I think it can work to bring you home.
Lou
kolldata
DEEP in the heart of Yemani wilds our hero blew a tire.
Remebering he decided to not carry a spare tube
he began searching the nearest village for PVC tape..
Frank Krygowski
Please! Go on! The suspense is killing me!
- Frank Krygowski