homemade battery assembly for VistaLite 15W halogen lamp
Charles Hileman
out a year ago, and I would like to put together a NiCad battery set. I
imagine that others have done this in the past.
I could put together 5 NiCad "D" batteries, 1.2 volts each, giving me
the required 6 volts. Where I could purchase a charger for this set? I
assume I will have to tape the batteries together, fitting them into the
VistaLite battery case or possibly into a water bottle. Any hints on
how to reliably keep the batteries in contact with each other?
Many thanks,
--
Charlie Hileman - free...@bellsouth.net
3speed
last longer.
"Charles Hileman" <free...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:3A180C11...@bellsouth.net...
Matt O'Toole
> I have a 15W VistaLite halogen headlamp. The lead-acid battery burned
> out a year ago, and I would like to put together a NiCad battery set. I
> imagine that others have done this in the past.
> I could put together 5 NiCad "D" batteries, 1.2 volts each, giving me
> the required 6 volts. Where I could purchase a charger for this set? I
> assume I will have to tape the batteries together, fitting them into the
> VistaLite battery case or possibly into a water bottle. Any hints on
> how to reliably keep the batteries in contact with each other?
Nightrider makes a water bottle type case for 5 D flashlight cells, to go
with a basic 10W light system (Supersport?) that they sell. I doubt it's
really cheap ($20?), but it might be an easy solution. However, I don't
think heavy nicad cells will stay reliably in contact when subject to
vibration. I hear there's a bit of flickering even with the much lighter
alakaline cells that case was designed for.
It's best to solder the cells together with wire, and seal them firmly into
a decent container. Use *at least* 16g lamp cord. Braided ground strap is
even better. It's a good idea to put a fuse in there, too. Get cells with
solder tabs, as it's *a lot* easier than trying to solder directly to the
cells. You can then put them in whatever container you'd like. Water
bottles work well, though you may have to use smaller C cells so they'll
fit. Once you have them in there, keep them from moving around by filling
the container with either melted wax, or instant foam. You can get the
foam at a hardware store. It's the stuff used for weatherproofing around
windows and doors, etc.
You could also just replace your lead acid battery with a new, better one.
These come as a ready-made block, so all you have to do is connect the
wires and find a little velcro bag to hold it. I'm surprised you have a
15W lamp with a lead acid battery. Very few lead acids can deliver enough
current for a 15W lamp, and none of the cheapies that come with bike lights
even come close. They can barely run a 10W properly. So I'm sure your
lamp has not been running anywhere near full brightness. However, a Hawker
Cyclon battery does have the oomph you need. They're about twice the price
of generic lead acids, and a bit heavier; but last a lot longer, and will
actually work right for your application. A 6V, 5Ah model should be about
$25-30. This is still cheaper than 5 D size nicads, and it's a ready made
solution.
Either way, you'll notice an improvement in brightness.
For Nicads or NiMH, try www.nicadlady.com. For Hawker Cyclons, try
www.batterystation.com
Though a better charger is a good investment, either of these setups will
be OK with your stock cheapie charger, *if* you're careful not to
overcharge. Put the charger on a household lamp timer if you can't
remember to unplug it.
Matt O.
zaf...@my-deja.com
What is it about the SLAs that limits their use >10W? Internal
Resistance? I have a 12W Performance Viewpoint system with a SLA, the
light is not the least bit yellow, the run time is actually more then
you would expect looking at the high C discharge of a generic battery,
is it possible Performance went with the Hawker SLA?
Also I agree about soldering. My viewpoint system does not have
positive retention on the lamp connector, and I have had it disconnect
while on single track (highly unfunny). Radio shack sells 'sub C'
nicads that come with solder tabs on them. Be sure to check the Amp
Hours of the cells if you make your own pack, you can get D size cells
with lower AH ratings then hi capacity C sells.
In article <tlZR5.4940$6W1.4...@news.flash.net>,
ma...@deltanet.com wrote:
> You could also just replace your lead acid battery with a new, better
one.
> These come as a ready-made block, so all you have to do is connect the
> wires and find a little velcro bag to hold it. I'm surprised you have
a
> 15W lamp with a lead acid battery. Very few lead acids can deliver
enough
> current for a 15W lamp, and none of the cheapies that come with bike
lights
> even come close. They can barely run a 10W properly. So I'm sure
your
> lamp has not been running anywhere near full brightness. However, a
Hawker
> Cyclon battery does have the oomph you need. They're about twice the
price
> of generic lead acids, and a bit heavier; but last a lot longer, and
will
> actually work right for your application. A 6V, 5Ah model should be
about
> $25-30. This is still cheaper than 5 D size nicads, and it's a ready
made
> solution.
>
> Either way, you'll notice an improvement in brightness.
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Kavall
Controled planes, and cars. Ask for "battery braid" It is flat braided
wire. Use 60/40 solder with a rosen core flux. Using these things make
it SIMPLE. You can use other things like battery bars (solid bars),
lamp cord, etc. But the flat braided wire is easiest to solder. I
would test fit your pack before soldering it together. And I would
make sure my soldering job is quite good before putting it in
expandable foam in a water bottle. Nothing worse than a solder joint
coming apart when it is all foamed over. Five nicads of the highest
capacity would work great. While you are at the hobby shop you can get
a charger as well.
On Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:21:21 -0500, Charles Hileman
<free...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>I have a 15W VistaLite halogen headlamp. The lead-acid battery burned
>out a year ago, and I would like to put together a NiCad battery set. I
>imagine that others have done this in the past.
>
>I could put together 5 NiCad "D" batteries, 1.2 volts each, giving me
>the required 6 volts. Where I could purchase a charger for this set? I
>assume I will have to tape the batteries together, fitting them into the
>VistaLite battery case or possibly into a water bottle. Any hints on
>how to reliably keep the batteries in contact with each other?
>
>Many thanks,
Matt O'Toole
> Hey Matt,
> What is it about the SLAs that limits their use >10W? Internal
> Resistance?
Yes. Better quality and/or higher tech SLAs have less internal resistance,
and can deliver a lot more current.
> I have a 12W Performance Viewpoint system with a SLA, the
> light is not the least bit yellow, the run time is actually more then
> you would expect looking at the high C discharge of a generic battery,
> is it possible Performance went with the Hawker SLA?
It's possible. Vista used them in the past. Some of the cheaper SLAs are
better than others, too. For example, Powersonics are quite a bit better
than the cheapest SLAs, but still not in the same class as a Hawker.
Also, your lamp's rating is only nominal, and you never really know how
much wattage, or even voltage, the bulb is really rated for. It's typical
for bike lights to be "overvolted," where they put, say, a 5V bulb in a 6V
system. This gives a lot more light with just a little more power, at the
expense of bulb life. So, even with your battery worn down, the bulb is
still burning hot and white.
BTW, the 12W Performance lamp has one of the best all around beam patterns
for trail riding, better than Nightrider's lamps, IMO.
> Also I agree about soldering. My viewpoint system does not have
> positive retention on the lamp connector, and I have had it disconnect
> while on single track (highly unfunny). Radio shack sells 'sub C'
> nicads that come with solder tabs on them. Be sure to check the Amp
> Hours of the cells if you make your own pack, you can get D size cells
> with lower AH ratings then hi capacity C sells.
Absolutely. In fact a lot of D cells are really C cells inside D casings.
This is one way of offering a cheap D sized rechargeable to fit in people's
ghetto blasters, etc. Look at the Ah ratings and shop carefully. With
consumer oriented batteries, Ah ratings are often not given, so you don't
even know what you're getting. Steer clear of those, and find a better
supplier.
Matt O.
A Thomas
Myra posts a lot on uk.rec.cycling and tends to "know her onions" as well as
anyone where lighting is concerned.
Andrew
Charles Hileman <free...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:3A180C11...@bellsouth.net...
> I have a 15W VistaLite halogen headlamp. The lead-acid battery burned
> out a year ago, and I would like to put together a NiCad battery set. I
> imagine that others have done this in the past.
>
> I could put together 5 NiCad "D" batteries, 1.2 volts each, giving me
> the required 6 volts. Where I could purchase a charger for this set? I
> assume I will have to tape the batteries together, fitting them into the
> VistaLite battery case or possibly into a water bottle. Any hints on
> how to reliably keep the batteries in contact with each other?
>
> Many thanks,
Eric Salathe
> I have a 15W VistaLite halogen headlamp. The lead-acid battery burned
> out a year ago, and I would like to put together a NiCad battery set. I
> imagine that others have done this in the past.
Just to add to the other good posts here: I recently made a 6V nicad
pack, and it was really quite simple. To make the excersize worthwile,
use 5 5.7Amp-hr D-cells available with solder tabs for $9.50 each from
NiCad Lady (http://nicdlady.com/cell_pr.html). These will make a
considerably better battery than the Nite Rider or Vista batteries at
1/2 the cost.
I used wire rated for 10Amps, more than enough for the 2.5 amps drawn
by 15W at 6V, and soldered it to the cells. The cells fit easily into
a standard 1.5-liter large-mouth water bottle. I wrapped each cell
with electrical tape after soldering the wire, and used enough wire to
allow maneuvering the cells into the bottle. Try inserting them first
before wiring to get an idea of how they'll fit. I stuffed packing
peanuts around the cells to keep from rattling. I cut the wire from an
old lead-acid battery for the new battery, fed it through the drink
hole, and sealed with silicon sealant.
I did not use a fuse, but that would be a good idea. 5 Amps or so for
a 6V 15W system would be about right.
Eric Salathe <esal...@cascade.org>
Seattle WA