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Front fork suspension - retaining bolts.

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Ian Field

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Jun 8, 2013, 12:40:14 PM6/8/13
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Having had the front fork sliders off to replace perished gaiters, the RH
retaining bolt point blank refuses to pick up the thread - I've even tried
chamferring the threaded end to make it easier to center up and catch the
thread, but its still having none of it!

The LH bolt dropped straight in and picked up the thread no problem.

Any help please?

Thanks.

User Bp

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Jun 8, 2013, 11:49:19 PM6/8/13
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Ian Field <gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> retaining bolt point blank refuses to pick up the thread - I've even tried
> chamferring the threaded end to make it easier to center up and catch the
> thread, but its still having none of it!
>
If it's a through hole, can you start the bolt from
the back side?

Else, can you find a tap of the correct thread?

hope this helps,

bob prohaska

>

Ian Field

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Jun 9, 2013, 9:48:38 AM6/9/13
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"User Bp" <b...@www.zefox.net> wrote in message
news:kp0tvv$ltg$1...@news.albasani.net...
The female thread is in the end of a rod, presumably welded to the bottom of
the fork slider.

The top of the thread is about 2" - 3" down the top of the slider tube - I
certainly couldn't use a T-bar tap holder for this job.

Ian Field

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Jun 9, 2013, 2:45:02 PM6/9/13
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"User Bp" <b...@www.zefox.net> wrote in message
news:kp0tvv$ltg$1...@news.albasani.net...
With the forks dismantled I was able to screw both bolts into the threads of
both sliders.

Having taken the forks apart to try this - it took about 1/2 hour struggling
to get the LH bolt to pick up the thread again, and I still couldn't get the
RH bolt to start.

There must be some "trick of the trade" for reassembling front forks, and
I'm hoping someone here knows it.

John B.

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Jun 9, 2013, 7:51:45 PM6/9/13
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Is the bolt perfectly straight - try rolling it across a flat surface.
If it isn't than it is going to take some wiggling around to get it to
start.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Dan O

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Jun 10, 2013, 1:20:57 AM6/10/13
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On Jun 9, 6:48 am, "Ian Field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "User Bp" <b...@www.zefox.net> wrote in message
>
> news:kp0tvv$ltg$1...@news.albasani.net...
>
> > Ian Field <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> retaining bolt point blank refuses to pick up the thread - I've even
> >> tried
> >> chamferring the threaded end to make it easier to center up and catch the
> >> thread, but its still having none of it!

Sounds like a flattened thread end down in there. Does it bump at all
when rotated? Did you try the other bolt?

If it is flattened, you'll have to get past it with something like a
pointed tap.

>
> > If it's a through hole, can you start the bolt from
> > the back side?
>
> > Else, can you find a tap of the correct thread?
>
> > hope this helps,
>
> The female thread is in the end of a rod, presumably welded to the bottom of
> the fork slider.
>
> The top of the thread is about 2" - 3" down the top of the slider tube

Hmm... sounds like a long way from the bottom, so even drilling out
the bottom (and plugging after) is probably not terribly useful.

> - I
> certainly couldn't use a T-bar tap holder for this job.

Extension?

How about really sharpening up - maybe even hardening the tip of - the
chamfered bolt and screwing it hard to cut past the leading thread
(assuming it's even hitting the hole - you should feel *some* little
bump every turn when trying to start it if so).

Dan O

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Jun 10, 2013, 1:33:22 AM6/10/13
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On Jun 9, 11:45 am, "Ian Field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:
> "User Bp" <b...@www.zefox.net> wrote in message
>
> news:kp0tvv$ltg$1...@news.albasani.net...
>
> > Ian Field <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> retaining bolt point blank refuses to pick up the thread - I've even
> >> tried
> >> chamferring the threaded end to make it easier to center up and catch the
> >> thread, but its still having none of it!
>
> > If it's a through hole, can you start the bolt from
> > the back side?
>
> > Else, can you find a tap of the correct thread?
>
> With the forks dismantled I was able to screw both bolts into the threads of
> both sliders.
>

Oh... please disregard my recent ~destructive approach.

> Having taken the forks apart to try this - it took about 1/2 hour struggling
> to get the LH bolt to pick up the thread again, and I still couldn't get the
> RH bolt to start.
>

Sounds like difficult alignment. Maybe lube the bolt tip and apply
~some force and turn *backward* until it clicks into the thread and
then reverse to screw it in.

Again, though, have you tried swapping the bolts?

> There must be some "trick of the trade" for reassembling front forks, and
> I'm hoping someone here knows it.

I hate to take the copout apporach - especially in a "tech" board, but
could be a good excuse to upgrade - particularly if this is an
undamped pogo stick suspension never really intended to be serviced.

thirty-six

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Jun 10, 2013, 3:52:32 AM6/10/13
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While I have not had to deal with that particular problem, the way to
start a screw or bolt hidden within a deep recess is to use a dowel to
position the screw. Stick the head of the screw to the dowel with gum/
mastic. it is easier to feel the locating of the screw with only a
light weight positioning stick. A pencil and blutack are usually
enough for small stuff, which is where I'm usually at. With a thin
enough dowel you can also peer down the hole so you can see which way
to jiggle the screw. Sometimes a tubular spanner can be used with
ease as opposed to using a socket and bar. With all the mass of
socketry it becomes impossible to feel the drop as screw locates but
occasionally the use of a cigarette paper to hold the screw steady in
the socket will stop the srew otherwise cocking and failing to engage
the tapped hole.


But you sayd bolt - erm put your dowel through from the nut side
and join it to the end of the bolt, through the column, with gum/
mastic or other tacky/sticky stuff you can imagine. use an extension
bar from socket set to press the bolt through the hole while the dowel
leads the bolt.

Ian Field

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Jun 10, 2013, 9:55:07 AM6/10/13
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"John B." <sloc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:435ar8d77a1oeog25...@4ax.com...
With the bolts screwed into the disassembled sliders the bolt heads look
centered OK in the slider tube.

When I took it all apart again to check this - it was a major puzzle getting
the LH bolt to take, and I eventually gave up trying to get the RH bolt in.

User Bp

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Jun 10, 2013, 9:32:27 PM6/10/13
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Dan O <danov...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Sounds like difficult alignment. Maybe lube the bolt tip and apply
> ~some force and turn *backward* until it clicks into the thread and
> then reverse to screw it in.
>
Most likely Dan is right. If the threads fit but won't start in the
assembly then then assembly is at fault. Applying a little force
and turning the bolt backwards may "find" the thread engagement,
but if the alignment is off by too much engaging the threads will
cause a cross thread. If you can "wiggle around" to make the threads
engage smoothly it might work, but it sounds like a bent or misaligned
structure.

Seems you don't have much to lose at this stage. Buy a new fork now,
or buy one the _next_ time it has to come apart.

bob prohaska

Ian Field

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Jun 11, 2013, 10:09:20 AM6/11/13
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"User Bp" <b...@www.zefox.net> wrote in message
news:kp5una$77d$1...@news.albasani.net...
I have the complete headstock I hacksawed off a frame I found in the hedge -
that's what I salvaged replacement gaiters off to refurbish mine.

Trouble is; my bike has different handlebar post and looks like at least the
top bearing could be a plain bush.

I can't see any adjustment at the top and the handlebar post is a pinch-bolt
clamp.

The spare headstock looks like conventional ball-race bearings and an
expander bolt handlebar post.

Looks like a bit of dismantling to work out whether a transplant is
possible.

Then again. I might remember to not pop wheelies while it only has a bolt in
one fork - or just get pissed off with the whole thing and weld it solid.

John B.

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Jun 11, 2013, 9:07:48 PM6/11/13
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My thoughts would be - It came apart which seems to preclude damage to
the bolt or threads. Assuming that you didn't damage anything while it
was disassembled than it will go back together.

While this sounds like a platitude it isn't. Think about it for a bit
- if you haven't damaged the bolt or forks why won't it go back
together? Perhaps a troll took up residence in the fork tube? Perhaps
you need to scatter pixy dust in the tube?

Or, lacking experience you are doing something incorrectly? Would it
screw together when it was disassembled? Will the R.H. bolt screw into
the L.H. fork? and vis-versa? Are the parts you are trying to assemble
misaligned?

If the answer is yes, than the only other part of the equation if you.
Can you take it to a bike shop? Do you have any friends that are
experienced mechanics?

While all this seems to be a bit insulting it isn't intended to be.
Very often a problem that seems unsolvable isn't and when a another,
with no preconceived notions, looks at the problem he/she immediately
sees a solution.

--
Cheers,

John B.

Sir Ridesalot

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Jun 11, 2013, 9:47:15 PM6/11/13
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Can you shine a light down the tube and see the hole the bolt screws into? I'm wondering if there's some foreign object covering or partly blocking the hole?

Cheers

Ian Field

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Jun 12, 2013, 10:13:28 AM6/12/13
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"John B." <sloc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:iehfr85e1biroa5n5...@4ax.com...
Read much?

I've already described in detail that I screwed in the bolts with the fork
apart, and repeated with the bolts swapped over!

Ian Field

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Jun 12, 2013, 10:20:37 AM6/12/13
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"Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:9831b694-ea5a-4615...@googlegroups.com...
Funnily enough I can see daylight through the inner stem - I sort of
expected it to be a solid rod with a blind tapped hole machined in the top.

And I've already had to re-explain for people with a reading impairment -
I've screwed both bolts into each slider with the forks apart.

Sir Ridesalot

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Jun 12, 2013, 12:16:27 PM6/12/13
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Hadn't read every post on this thread and was only trying to help.

Cheers and good luck.

Ian Field

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Jun 12, 2013, 4:32:37 PM6/12/13
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"Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1960e38d-62df-40f4...@googlegroups.com...
"only trying to help" without bothering to look what's already been tried
just causes a nuisance!

John B.

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Jun 12, 2013, 8:07:01 PM6/12/13
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On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:13:28 +0100, "Ian Field"
Ruffled feathers? But since you did determine that the bolts fit and
can be screwed in what is left?

--
Cheers,

John B.

Lou Holtman

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Jun 13, 2013, 6:12:10 AM6/13/13
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On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:32:37 PM UTC+2, Ian Field wrote:
> "Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:1960e38d-62df-40f4...@googlegroups.com... > On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:20:37 AM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: >> "Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message >> >> news:9831b694-ea5a-4615...@googlegroups.com... >> >> > On Saturday, June 8, 2013 12:40:14 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: >> >> >> Having had the front fork sliders off to replace perished gaiters, the >> >> RH >> >> >> >> >> >> retaining bolt point blank refuses to pick up the thread - I've even >> >> >> tried >> >> >> >> >> >> chamferring the threaded end to make it easier to center up and catch >> >> the >> >> >> >> >> >> thread, but its still having none of it! >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The LH bolt dropped straight in and picked up the thread no problem. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Any help please? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks. >> >> > >> >> > Can you shine a light down the tube and see the hole the bolt screws >> > into? >> >> > I'm wondering if there's some foreign object covering or partly >> > blocking >> >> > the hole? >> >> >> >> Funnily enough I can see daylight through the inner stem - I sort of >> >> expected it to be a solid rod with a blind tapped hole machined in the >> top. >> >> >> >> And I've already had to re-explain for people with a reading impairment - >> >> I've screwed both bolts into each slider with the forks apart. > > Hadn't read every post on this thread and was only trying to help. "only trying to help" without bothering to look what's already been tried just causes a nuisance!

For someone looking for an answer for his problem I would be a little nicer to people who are trying to help. Other people reading this thread who know the answer may think now 'he can go f* himself'.

Lou

Ian Field

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Jun 13, 2013, 8:58:23 AM6/13/13
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"Lou Holtman" <lou.h...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:94e9ed55-5640-4f0b...@googlegroups.com...
If they were going to keep on about things that were already asked and
answered they can suit themselves.

Dan O

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Jun 13, 2013, 10:01:09 PM6/13/13
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On Jun 13, 5:58 am, "Ian Field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:
> "Lou Holtman" <lou.holt...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:94e9ed55-5640-4f0b...@googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:32:37 PM UTC+2, Ian Field wrote:
> >> "Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cycle_pat...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:1960e38d-62df-40f4...@googlegroups.com... > On
> >> Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:20:37 AM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: >> "Sir
> >> Ridesalot" <i_am_cycle_pat...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message >> >>
I've never worked on a suspension bicycle fork, so please excuse any
stupid question. Do you have to compress the suspension to engage the
bolts? If so, I'm sure you are doing so, but I know that can be a
counter to engaging that first thread, working to reject engagement.



Ian Field

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Jun 14, 2013, 10:28:50 AM6/14/13
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"Dan O" <danov...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:dc15fbdd-6006-4b05...@rh15g2000pbb.googlegroups.com...
I got one of the bolts in, so I must be doing something right - the RH bolt
isn't having any of it and I gave up in the end.

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