Alternatives to the old "Flick-Stand" kickstand
Cliff Stockdill
length), and
use it like the bungee you mentioned. It's a little lighter, doesn't stretch
like a bungee, and
can be tightly wrapped around the downtube when not in use. One advantage
over the
Flickstand is that it works with fenders too.
cliff
Me! <Nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:f1gepscujs4k6qvn6...@4ax.com...
> I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a
device
> called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
>
> For those that haven't seen one a Flick-Stand is a small lever that mounts
on
> the frame down tube and which folds out to engage and lock the front tire.
It
> keeps the tire from rolling and the steering head from turning. This
allows you
> to just lean your bike up against anything without it falling over. It
even
> works on a hill!
>
> When I called Rhode-Gear who made this nifty gadget I was informed that
they no
> longer made it. I guess there weren't enough sales and the fact that front
tubes
> are now multiple sizes led them to discontinue it.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish the same thing that
the
> Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap
a
> short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really
elegant
> solution.
>
> Thanks for any words of wisdom
>
> Steve
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kh6...@nospampe.net
brake. This will help keep the bike from rolling.
In rec.bicycles.tech Me! <Nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
: I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a device
: called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
: For those that haven't seen one a Flick-Stand is a small lever that mounts on
: the frame down tube and which folds out to engage and lock the front tire. It
: keeps the tire from rolling and the steering head from turning. This allows you
: to just lean your bike up against anything without it falling over. It even
: works on a hill!
: When I called Rhode-Gear who made this nifty gadget I was informed that they no
: longer made it. I guess there weren't enough sales and the fact that front tubes
: are now multiple sizes led them to discontinue it.
: Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish the same thing that the
: Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap a
: short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really elegant
: solution.
: Thanks for any words of wisdom
: Steve
--------------------------------
Bob Masse' kh6...@PE.NET
--------------------------------
Mike Euritt
device
> called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
There is a local shop that has some left, contact me off list if you would
like to get one of them
Mike
kh6...@nospampe.net
In rec.bicycles.tech Mike Euritt <meu...@home.com> wrote:
: "Me!" <Nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
: Mike
--------------------------------
Bob Masse' kh6...@PE.NET
--------------------------------
Tim McNamara
the Vecro strap on a pair of gloves. Then the front wheel can't roll
even if the wheel flops over. I never use a handlebar bag because this
seems to aggravate the problem.
I have found that if I lean the bike against a wall, it rarely rolls
off and falls down. If I lean the bike with the center of the top tube
or the saddle against a pole or something, it is more likely to do
this. Keeping the bike as upright as possible helps, too.
The best thing I have found is laying the bike down in the first place.
I've *never* had it fall over from this position. ;-) Not always
practical, though.
I also often lean the bike against the curb, using the pedal as a
kickstand with the crankarm roughly pointing at the point of contact
between the rear wheel and the ground- the pawl engagement in the
freehub/wheel prevents the crankarm from rotating, and the front wheel
rests gently against the curb and prevents it from flopping over and
the bike from falling. Simple, elegant, and often makes people stop
and stare trying to figure out how it works. I got the idea from
dozens of Frank Patterson drawings which showed bikes propped up this
way.
Jeremy Parker
> I also often lean the bike against the curb, using the pedal as a
> kickstand with the crankarm roughly pointing at the point of contact
> between the rear wheel and the ground- the pawl engagement in the
> freehub/wheel prevents the crankarm from rotating, and the front wheel
> rests gently against the curb and prevents it from flopping over and
> the bike from falling. Simple, elegant, and often makes people stop
> and stare trying to figure out how it works. I got the idea from
> dozens of Frank Patterson drawings which showed bikes propped up this
> way.
>
Yes, that's what we always used to do in Britain. It's been rather
forgotten ever since it bacame necessary to always lock the bike to
something.
I wonder how Steve can get away without locking his bike.
Jeremy Parker
James Forrest
>I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a device
>called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
>
>For those that haven't seen one a Flick-Stand is a small lever that mounts on
>the frame down tube and which folds out to engage and lock the front tire. It
>keeps the tire from rolling and the steering head from turning. This allows you
>to just lean your bike up against anything without it falling over. It even
>works on a hill!
>
>When I called Rhode-Gear who made this nifty gadget I was informed that they no
>longer made it. I guess there weren't enough sales and the fact that front tubes
>are now multiple sizes led them to discontinue it.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish the same thing that the
>Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap a
>short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really elegant
>solution.
>
>Thanks for any words of wisdom
>
>Steve
I use a small piece of wood that fits in the opening above brake
handle that holds the brake engaged. Not quite as good as the old
flick stand but reasonably close.
Mike Forrest
richard
<f1gepscujs4k6qvn6...@4ax.com>:
>I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for
>a device called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
I use a piece of clothes pin (1-piece kind) shaved into a wedge. I jam
this into my front brake lever.
Doug Milliken
On Mon, 14 Aug 2000, James Forrest wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2000 22:00:12 -0400, Me! <Nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
>
> >I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a device
> >called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
> >Steve
>
> I use a small piece of wood that fits in the opening above brake
> handle that holds the brake engaged. Not quite as good as the old
> flick stand but reasonably close.
>
> Mike Forrest
No one has mentioned locking BMX levers yet -- if you can use them.
They have a built in lock (acts same as the piece of wood above).
A Muzi
"Me!" wrote:
> I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a device
> called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
>
> For those that haven't seen one a Flick-Stand is a small lever that mounts on
> the frame down tube and which folds out to engage and lock the front tire. It
> keeps the tire from rolling and the steering head from turning. This allows you
> to just lean your bike up against anything without it falling over. It even
> works on a hill!
>
> When I called Rhode-Gear who made this nifty gadget I was informed that they no
> longer made it. I guess there weren't enough sales and the fact that front tubes
> are now multiple sizes led them to discontinue it.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish the same thing that the
> Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap a
> short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really elegant
> solution.
>
> Thanks for any words of wisdom
>
> Steve
--
Yellow Jersey, Ltd
http://www.yellowjersey.org
http://www.execpc.com/yellowje
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Gavin Grandish
: I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for
: a device called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
<snip>
: Does anyone have any suggestions on how to accomplish the same thing that the
: Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap a
: short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really elegant
: solution.
Squeeze the front brake lever. Insert a pebble, small stick, or 1/2 of a
clothespin in the gap between the lever and the rest of the brake. It
works great!
--
Gavin Grandish gran...@unixg.ubc.ca
University of B.C., Vancouver
You have new mail.
John Brady
clothes peg, i.e. a cheap plastic or wooden springed clip for holding drying
on a line), just clip a clothespin on one of your cables so that it's always
handy.
Just be prepared for bike mechanics to smirk "You forgot this." with a look
that suggests they think you've been drying underwear on your bike.
Larry Farrell
John Brady wrote:
One of the things that seems to have been forgotten in the many responses to the
request for input about Flick Stands is the fact that they provided *two*
movement stops, one preventing the wheel from rolling and one preventing the
wheel from turning. Engagement of a properly mounted Flick Stand essentially
turned the bike into 3'X4' sheet of plywood (approximate measurements, YMMV)
which could be leaned against anything without fear of it falling. These
suggestions about locking the front brake only provide one movement stop, and
the leaned bike would be unstable in most situations. The best stopgap that has
been suggested is the use of a velcro strap to wrap around the wheel and the
down tube, providing both movement stops. Not elegant but it will work.
--
Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D.
Professor of Microbiology
Idaho State University
keos...@umich.edu
kh6...@nospamPE.NET wrote:
> They won't fit a oversized tube.
Before the FlickStand was discontinued Rhode Gear marketed a version for
oversized frame tubes, intended mainly for MTB bikes I believe. This
version of the FlickSTand fit easily on my tandem's downtube, though I
doubt it could reach around one of those gargantuan Cannonwhale
downtubes.
For anyone looking for a FlickStand I have a couple NOS (both
regular and oversized) that I'd be willing sell. Contact me via email
if interested.
Cheers,
-Jack (keos...@umich.edu)
>
> In rec.bicycles.tech Mike Euritt <meu...@home.com> wrote:
>
> : "Me!" <Nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> : news:f1gepscujs4k6qvn6...@4ax.com...
> :> I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking
for a
> : device
> :> called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
>
> : There is a local shop that has some left, contact me off list if you
would
> : like to get one of them
>
> : Mike
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Masse' kh6...@PE.NET
> --------------------------------
>
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
keos...@umich.edu
Larry Farrell <farr...@isu.edu> wrote:
responses to the
> request for input about Flick Stands is the fact that they provided
*two*
> movement stops, one preventing the wheel from rolling and one
preventing the
> wheel from turning. Engagement of a properly mounted Flick Stand
essentially
> turned the bike into 3'X4' sheet of plywood (approximate measurements,
YMMV)
> which could be leaned against anything without fear of it falling.
These
> suggestions about locking the front brake only provide one movement
stop, and
> the leaned bike would be unstable in most situations. The best
stopgap that has
> been suggested is the use of a velcro strap to wrap around the wheel
and the
> down tube, providing both movement stops. Not elegant but it will
work.
>
> --
> Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D.
> Professor of Microbiology
> Idaho State University
A solution similar to the velcro strap mentioned above, which is a
little cooler in that it recycles some bike bits you may have lying
fallow in your spare parts box, is to use an old toe strap around the
rim and downtube. Might be a bit slower to engage than a velcro strap,
but what could be more elegant than an old Binda Extra or Cinelli strap
round yer down tube?
A third solution is to add a drum brake to the rear wheel and use a
shifter to actuate the brake. Then you can just shift the brake into
high gear (or is it low gear?) at stops and the rear wheel is locked.
This solution is heavy and expensive, unless you already have the drum
brake on your rear hub. Our tandem no longer sports a FlickStand since
we started using a shifter, rather than a brake lever, to actuate the
rear drag brake.
Cheers,
-Jack
Steve Fantle
simulating the effectiveness of this simple, yet elegant device, perhaps
it's time someone forwarded this thread to the Rhode Gear folks to see
if they'd consider restarting Flick Stand production. I'd be one of the
first in line for one.
Larry Farrell wrote:
> One of the things that seems to have been forgotten in the many responses to the
> request for input about Flick Stands is the fact that they provided *two*
> movement stops, one preventing the wheel from rolling and one preventing the
> wheel from turning. Engagement of a properly mounted Flick Stand essentially
> turned the bike into 3'X4' sheet of plywood (approximate measurements, YMMV)
> which could be leaned against anything without fear of it falling. These
> suggestions about locking the front brake only provide one movement stop, and
> the leaned bike would be unstable in most situations. The best stopgap that has
> been suggested is the use of a velcro strap to wrap around the wheel and the
> down tube, providing both movement stops. Not elegant but it will work.
>
> --
> Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D.
> Professor of Microbiology
> Idaho State University
--
Steve Fantle
http://sma.web.boeing.com
Structural Methods & Allowables, B-YJ20
425-234-5650
Yip Kok Lok
leather at the handlebar.
Think of it as a handbrake.
This is easier to access and less likely to damage a spoke or scratch the
downtube.
Although the steering might move the bike won't.
In article <t0pjps8bcn8frub4q...@4ax.com>, Me!
<Nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread.
>
> I think the velcro strap is the right direction because of the dual locking
> action (both rotation and steering) and the fact that velcro is light
weight and
> can be permanently attached to the doun tube for storage. Here is what I
have in
> mind:
Sheldon Brown
>
> For my heavy touring bike I secure the front brake lever with a loop of
> leather at the handlebar.
> Think of it as a handbrake.
> This is easier to access and less likely to damage a spoke or scratch the
> downtube.
> Although the steering might move the bike won't.
I use an old toe-clip strap for this; I just keep it looped loosely
around the handlebar when not in use. I've got a lot of these around
since I switched to SPDs.
A couple of my bikes have "freestyle" brake levers that feature a lock
button. This works really well for this purpose.
A couple of my other bikes that have centerpull brakes have front
housing stops with quick-release cams--I have these set so that the
brakes work normally when the QR is in the "released" position. In the
"tight" position, it also becomes a parking brake. I often use this
just for making a quick run into a convenience store for a Coke or
something, instead of a lock. It's enough to keep an opportunist from
hopping on and riding away.
Sheldon "Parking Brake" Brown
+------------------------------------------+
| So we'll go no more a roving |
| So late into the night, |
| Though the heart be still as loving, |
| And the moon be still as bright. |
| |
| For the sword outwears its sheath, |
| And the soul wears out the breast, |
| And the heart must pause to breathe, |
| And Love itself have rest. |
| |
| Though the night was made for loving, |
| And the day returns too soon, |
| Yet we'll go no more a roving |
| By the light of the moon. |
| --Lord Byron |
+------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772, 617-244-1040 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
alex wetmore
> I think the velcro strap is the right direction because of the dual
locking
> action (both rotation and steering) and the fact that velcro is light
weight and
> can be permanently attached to the doun tube for storage.
It also works with fenders, which is a major advantage over the
Flickstand.
alex
jba...@gmail.com
> John Brady wrote:
>
> request for input about Flick Stands is the fact that they provided *two*
> movement stops, one preventing the wheel from rolling and one preventing the
> wheel from turning. Engagement of a properly mounted Flick Stand essentially
> turned the bike into 3'X4' sheet of plywood (approximate measurements, YMMV)
> which could be leaned against anything without fear of it falling. These
> suggestions about locking the front brake only provide one movement stop, and
> the leaned bike would be unstable in most situations. The best stopgap that has
> been suggested is the use of a velcro strap to wrap around the wheel and the
> down tube, providing both movement stops. Not elegant but it will work.
>
> --
> Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D.
> Professor of Microbiology
> Idaho State University
I have the patent on a simple device that has been prototyped which makes the bike as one ridgid sheet of plywood as you describe. I am in Idaho and I was planning to take it to colleges for market study. You still at ISU?
-Jeff Bales
jba...@gmail.com
> With all the interest in this topic, and the "partial" solutions to
> simulating the effectiveness of this simple, yet elegant device, perhaps
> it's time someone forwarded this thread to the Rhode Gear folks to see
> if they'd consider restarting Flick Stand production. I'd be one of the
> first in line for one.
>
> >
> > John Brady wrote:
> >
> > request for input about Flick Stands is the fact that they provided *two*
> > movement stops, one preventing the wheel from rolling and one preventing the
> > wheel from turning. Engagement of a properly mounted Flick Stand essentially
> > turned the bike into 3'X4' sheet of plywood (approximate measurements, YMMV)
> > which could be leaned against anything without fear of it falling. These
> > suggestions about locking the front brake only provide one movement stop, and
> > the leaned bike would be unstable in most situations. The best stopgap that has
> > been suggested is the use of a velcro strap to wrap around the wheel and the
> > down tube, providing both movement stops. Not elegant but it will work.
> >
> > --
> > Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D.
> > Professor of Microbiology
> > Idaho State University
>
> Steve Fantle
> http://sma.web.boeing.com
> Structural Methods & Allowables, B-YJ20
> 425-234-5650
Just just got the patent on the new alternative. Are you still looking?
-Jeff Bales
avag...@gmail.com
kast...@gmail.com
I bought this alternative: https://steerstopper.com/
It works VERY well, even better than Flickstand! Easier and more convenient to use. I have it mounted on my Trek Step-thru frame.
The downside is it's a little expensive, but it's worth it.
Frank Krygowski
wheel's rotation, making the bike even more stable.
I stop the front wheel (but don't lock the steering) when parked by use
of a sort of stair-stepped wedge thing crammed into the upper side of
the squeezed brake lever. Blackburn used to make them.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cycleseven/8196756476
I make my own, varying the design depending on the brake lever.
--
- Frank Krygowski
AMuzi
no hands. "a little expensive, but it's worth it"
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
sms
> I stumbled upon this while trying to find information about Flickstand. Apparently, it's no longer manufactured.
> I bought this alternative: https://steerstopper.com/
>
> It works VERY well, even better than Flickstand! Easier and more convenient to use. I have it mounted on my Trek Step-thru frame.
>
> The downside is it's a little expensive, but it's worth it
I still have a Flickstand on my old road bike. It'd be hard to make one
these days with the huge variety of shapes and diameters for frame tubing.
news18
> On 5/15/2019 2:15 PM, kast...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I stumbled upon this while trying to find information about Flickstand.
>> Apparently, it's no longer manufactured.
>>
>> I bought this alternative: https://steerstopper.com/
called great device, all his bike would fall over. hint, you nee to lean
the bike against and not away from the pole/table/etc.
>>
>> It works VERY well, even better than Flickstand! Easier and more
>> convenient to use. I have it mounted on my Trek Step-thru frame.
>>
>> The downside is it's a little expensive, but it's worth it.
nother down side it that it is another bit of junk on your top bar.
>
> IIRC, the Flickstand had the additional benefit of stopping the front
> wheel's rotation, making the bike even more stable.
>
> I stop the front wheel (but don't lock the steering) when parked by use
> of a sort of stair-stepped wedge thing crammed into the upper side of
> the squeezed brake lever. Blackburn used to make them.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cycleseven/8196756476
>
> I make my own, varying the design depending on the brake lever.
rizzid...@gmail.com
> You may want to try a short length of velcro strap (hooks and loops on same
> length), and
> use it like the bungee you mentioned. It's a little lighter, doesn't stretch
> like a bungee, and
> can be tightly wrapped around the downtube when not in use. One advantage
> over the
> Flickstand is that it works with fenders too.
>
> cliff
> > I just bought a new Cannondale aluminum frame bike and went looking for a
> device
> > called a Flick-Stand which I had on my previous bike.
> >
> on
> > the frame down tube and which folds out to engage and lock the front tire.
> It
> > keeps the tire from rolling and the steering head from turning. This
> allows you
> > to just lean your bike up against anything without it falling over. It
> even
> > works on a hill!
> >
> > When I called Rhode-Gear who made this nifty gadget I was informed that
> they no
> > longer made it. I guess there weren't enough sales and the fact that front
> tubes
> > are now multiple sizes led them to discontinue it.
> >
> the
> > Flick-Stand did so easily? About the only thing I can think of is to wrap
> a
> > short bungee cord around the wheel and down tube which is not a really
> elegant
> > solution.
> >
> >
> > Steve
>
>
>
>
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =-----
We are introducing a product called Flipstand. It works like Flickstand only better. I will be launching it on Kickstarter this month. It is lighter, fits most bikes, attaches without tools, and will be available soon.