Re: How to Measure Seatpost Binder Bolt?
thirty-six
> Hi all, I've got a stripped seatpost binder bolt, and am looking for a
> replacement. The seatpost binder width is about 21.4mm (photo below), and I
> see bolts being sold in three sizes, 19, 22, and 25mm. Am wondering how the
> bolt is measured, so I can buy the right one. More to the point, which of
> the three would fit the bike's binder? Would appreciate a pointer. Thanks
> in advance.
>
> http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/emote623/Marin_Venezia_seatpost...
Use a regular hex nut and bolt of 25mm length. I've had repeated
problems using the undersized socket headed bolts with their recessed
'nut'. So unless you can get a traditional lugged seat pin clip bolt
with a capped nut, use the largest regular bolt diameter that fits
(forget what this is).
RonSonic
wrote:
Bodge thee not unlest thou must.
Unfortunately, I've got nothing for the original poster.
--
Oh damn. There's that annoying blog. Again. http://dumbbikeblog.blogspot.com
Qui si parla Campagnolo
> Hi all, I've got a stripped seatpost binder bolt, and am looking for a
> replacement. The seatpost binder width is about 21.4mm (photo below), and I
> see bolts being sold in three sizes, 19, 22, and 25mm. Am wondering how the
> bolt is measured, so I can buy the right one. More to the point, which of
> the three would fit the bike's binder? Would appreciate a pointer. Thanks
> in advance.
>
> http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/emote623/Marin_Venezia_seatpost...
I measured a Nobilette, Merckx and both measured the same as your
frame so a 'normal' seatbinder bolt, either Campagnolo or Sugino will
work. The overall length of these 2 bolts, when screwed together,not
in the bike, is 24mm.
Qui si parla Campagnolo
> On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 02:40:24 -0700 (PDT), thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk>
No kidding. Nothing quite says 'ghetto' like a big, ugly nut and bolt
in an otheriwse nice frame.
AMuzi
>>>> Hi all, I've got a stripped seatpost binder bolt, and am looking for a
>>>> replacement. The seatpost binder width is about 21.4mm (photo below), and I
>>>> see bolts being sold in three sizes, 19, 22, and 25mm. Am wondering how the
>>>> bolt is measured, so I can buy the right one. More to the point, which of
>>>> the three would fit the bike's binder? Would appreciate a pointer. Thanks
>>>> in advance.
>>>> http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/emote623/Marin_Venezia_seatpost...
>> thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
>>> Use a regular hex nut and bolt of 25mm length. I've had repeated
>>> problems using the undersized socket headed bolts with their recessed
>>> 'nut'. So unless you can get a traditional lugged seat pin clip bolt
>>> with a capped nut, use the largest regular bolt diameter that fits
>>> (forget what this is).
> RonSonic <ronso...@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>> Bodge thee not unlest thou must.
>> Unfortunately, I've got nothing for the original poster.
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> No kidding. Nothing quite says 'ghetto' like a big, ugly nut and bolt
> in an otheriwse nice frame.
Yup, a hardware store bolt does look just right on a 'chrome
twennysebm inch ten speed'. If the saddle is all the way down.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
thirty-six
Peculier thing is, the thin dome head screw that I have used with a
regular nut looks reasonable because I placed the nut on the side of
the brake cable. It has also continued to work. When the looks start
to bother me or should it by one in a billion chance fail within the
next month, I shall replace it with a proper lugged item.
Qui si parla Campagnolo
Yep and I can fix anything on a bike with vice grips, duct tape and 30
wt oil.
thirty-six
> Yep and I can fix anything on a bike with vice grips, duct tape and 30
> wt oil.
BS
If it's a derailler bike, how do you shorten and link the chain
without a nail?
Chalo
>
> >
> > thirty-six wrote:
> > >
> > > HP wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I've got a stripped seatpost binder bolt, and am looking for a
> > >> replacement.
> > >
> > >problems using the undersized socket headed bolts with their recessed
> > >'nut'.
> >
>
> in an otheriwse nice frame.
Weird. A bolt's a bolt, I say. There's nothing special about binder
bolts except the abrupt change in cross-section that makes them break
so frequently. I'll use them when I have to contend with a
counterbored lug, or when I haven't broken one yet and replaced it
with a button head screw.
I've seen a lot of frames messed up by some nincompoop turning the
keyed nut instead of the bolt. That's what happens when both sides
look the same, though. It's unsmart design.
Chalo
AMuzi
Standard practice is bolt on the right, pegged nut on the left.
People screw dry threads together, ride on flaccid tires,
run brown chain until the noise is distracting and wreck
bolt heads with vise grips.
People screw up all sorts of things, doesn't make the design
'unsmart'.
Qui si parla Campagnolo
Hear, hear. It's an elegant design that matches the frame that it is
intended for perfectly. If ya break one, you are using that fist o'
ham again.
thirty-six
It does not need the hex socket on the female side. The traditional
lugged bolt has a neat shallow domed head and the bolt and nut are
nicely chromed. There is a good place to put the frame/bicycle
builders or team icon.
AMuzi
How could "Next" or "Magna" look any better than this?
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3561856/1101995666567_seat_campy_binder.jpg
Chalo
>
> >
> > Chalo wrote:
> > >
> > > I've seen a lot of frames messed up by some nincompoop turning the
> > > keyed nut instead of the bolt. That's what happens when both sides
> > > look the same, though. It's unsmart design.
> >
> > 'unsmart'.
>
> intended for perfectly. If ya break one, you are using that fist o'
> ham again.
Or contending with a less-than-perfect fit of seat tube to seat post,
perhaps. Or trying to loosen one that was assembled dry and left in
the elements. Whatever the reason for excessive torque, it's harder
to break a graded 6mm button head screw and a _lot_ harder to break an
8mm button head screw than a typical binder bolt.
Separate seat collars have yielded a big improvement in fault
tolerance and repairability, as well as compatibility with ordinary
fasteners. They may not fa bella figura, but I think they constitute
better fitness for purpose.
Chalo
thirty-six
>
I had one of them, and a miche and a ??? All broke, probably after
about twenty or so adjustments, which were necessary at the time. I
needed another 5w of sustainable power. Nearly had it sussed as
well.
Because of the failures it reminds me of, I think it so ugly. Tell me
why there is that visible hex socket. Leaving a circular hole would
be attractive in comparison and mean time isn't wasted on the wrong
end. I've done it because I didn't plug the dead end. When I've been
mid ride and close to exhaustion I didn't like to be wondering which
side to place the hex key. Odd thing is that although I carry a
spanner to adjust the seat pin binder, I rarely do. Of course I'm not
looking for unnobtainable power anymore, so seat height is adjusted
because of injury only. The fact that I found what must be near to
ideal means I'm less likely to encounter muscular problems. But, I do
think that the handiness of the hex key is a contributer to the
downfall of the lightweight binder bolt.
Nate Nagel
I like the way Trek did it back in the day, seatpost binder on my 620
has a 6mm thread on left side and a recess on the right, if you put a
correct length socket head cap screw in there the whole thing disappears
save for a few threads sticking out the left side.
Of course, when I bought the bike, someone had bodged on a quick release
with a black plastic handle, complete with some random spacers to make
it work (appeared to be axle spacers, they didn't even fit the bolt)
*facepalm*
yes, that was one of the very first things I rectified.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Tom Sherman °_°
I used to work in the 'hood, and the "typical" bike is a hardware store
ten-speed with "DUI" bars.
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
Tom Sherman °_°
> Yep and I can fix anything on a bike with vice grips,[...]
^^^^
For bondage?
<http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/brandProducts.jhtml?brand=Vise-Grip>.