Am Thu, 4 Aug 2022 12:17:02 -0400 schrieb Frank Krygowski
Same here, sort of. After I broke my bones in 2011 and couldn't ride for
a long time, I had to stop commuting by bike and still restrict myself
to riding at daylight and avoid rainy weather. As you probably know, I
rode around the year, independent of temperature and weather, the
decades before. I didn't, afterwards, because I couldn't trust my
strength and abilities like before, anymore.
I've partially recovered and regained some extra strength through muscle
training and especially gained endurance through long rides after
retirement, but that decision stands.
>For one thing, I'm
>retired, so never have to ride home from work at night.
I haven't to, either. I still try to ride about as much as I did when
doing 25 km each working day, around the year. I enjoy finally being
able to cycle far out into the local countryside and up the hills of the
Ahr Mountains on this side of the Rhine in friendly weather. For bad
weather I have a roller trainer.
>For another
>thing, my best current night riding friend has contracted a serious
>health problem and we haven't ridden together for many months.
That's a problem with depending on pair oder group rides: you sometimes
have to find new company.
For some reason, mostly because I dislike the sporty, fashion driven
style of biycle clubs, I always rode alone and still do, when doing long
rides.
>
>But my roller and bottle dynamos have been very trouble free -
>understanding that I only rarely rode at night in the rain.
That might be the reason. Freezing rain and sleet is even worse. But I
actually enjoyed riding through snow.
>The problems
>I've had with dyno systems have been contained in the headlamps: before
>LEDs, I had a halogen bulb whose center contact got eroded by vibration,
>giving intermittent contact.
Some lamps from B&M and other had an obvious design flaw, a simple screw
fixed both the contact to the bulb and the lamp in the holder on the
fork crown, which was the ground contact. The whole construct was able
to vibrate, producing contact problems en masse.
>I had one very inexpensive B&M Lyt headlamp
> whose switch needed work. I had another off-brand LED lamp whose LED
>failed. (I replaced it, which was more trouble than it was worth.) A
>couple years ago I had a weird intermittent problem with a B&M Eyc. I
>never diagnosed it, because it cured itself.
Well, I've consumed a specific B&M Lumotec headlamp like other people
use up inner tubes.
<
https://www.mystrobl.de/Plone/radfahren/fahrten/urlaub/emsland1992.jpg.1>
1992
(This officially dangerous helmet was thrown away without replacement
shortly after this holiday)
<
https://www.mystrobl.de/Plone/radfahren/technik/komponenten/licht/lichtc1.jpg/view.html>
Electronics 1995-1997, but the '78 Peugeot got its original lamp
replaced by a Lumotec much earlier.
<
https://www.mystrobl.de/Plone/radfahren/fahrten/urlaub/wuerzburg2fuessen/25.jpg/download>
1996
<
https://www.mystrobl.de/Plone/radfahren/IMG-2461.JPG/download>
Picture from 2007
In 2007 I switched to LED lamps and never looked back.
This is a short field report about the first Lumotec IQ fly, replacing
the Halogen Lumotec.
<
https://www.mystrobl.de/Plone/radfahren/technik/komponenten/licht/lumotec-fly.html>
German language, but Google Translate gives a reasonable translation
Lumotec IQ fly field report
First experiences with two Busch+Müller Fly headlights (December 2007)
IQ Fly on my winter bike
Initial situation
After a battery system from the company Friwo (Friemann and Wolf,
primarily known for power supplies, chargers and small power packs of
all kinds) has served me well for almost 15 years on various bikes (at
least better than I had from a whole series of roller and side runners),
I had to take the crumbling of the last remaining battery case as an
opportunity to look around for an alternative at short notice.
Previously I had replaced the standard 1.2Ah sealed lead acid battery
used in this system with a new one every two or three years. This time,
however, the contacts were so worn out by corrosion and use that it was
foreseeable that the contacts would soon break.
What needed to be replaced?
It quickly became clear that replacing the battery was not enough. The
Friwo system has not been available for a long time and a comparable
system that can be looped in in a similar way as a dynamo replacement or
supplement is not available on the market. Since the newly purchased
winter tires (Continental TopContact Winter) were to be mounted on
another rim at the same time in order to enable a quick change back to
the slicks normally used (Schwalbe Marathon Slick), it made sense to
switch to hub dynamo power supply. This in turn made a new headlight
necessary, since the previously used switchless, round Lumotec, which
was only held together with a cable tie but upgraded with a 0.85A/5.2V
bulb, would not have got along with the hub dynamo.
Since the IQ fly had been announced at the time, but was not yet
available in practice, I first installed a halogen-based Lumotec fly N
plus, used it for a few weeks and then replaced it with the IQ fly senso
plus that had been delivered in the meantime and which I now have also
used for a few weeks.
Light distribution on the IQ fly
Projection onto the basement wall, shortly after switching to the
parking light mode. The IQ fly delivers a lot more light than the
standard fly, which is basically not bad either and is equipped with a
normal 2.4 W halogen bulb. However, the light has some unusual
properties that you have to get used to. The cold, pale color is
noticeable, but not really a problem. However, it is annoying,
especially when driving fast, that the light distribution has a hole in
the middle. The result is that when comparing the two headlights, you
see considerably more in the close-up range, but no more in the
long-distance range, perhaps even a little less.
Projected onto a basement wall, one has the impression of two
superimposed rectangles of slightly different colors (a central, more
yellowish central rectangle and a very broad, slightly deeper bluish
one, which, on closer inspection, appears as two circular structures
abutting). I tried to show the effect, which is not as clear in the
photo as it is with a direct view, by superimposing it with a drawing.
The initial image is contrast-enhanced compared to the original, it was
created by photographing the light spot on a cellar wall, distance a few
meters, standlight mode.
Based on a tip in news:de.rec.fahrrad I filed the circuit board slightly
and achieved a slightly better light distribution. Nevertheless, the
wish for a better high beam remains.
<snip>
LED lights have become much better in the meantime, but this one worked
well enough and AFAIK still does.
>
>I've worn out bearings on a couple dynos and had minor problems with
>their mounts, but I can't recall other problems. But I don't doubt you
>have much more experience riding at night than I do.
Most probably, and under worse conditions. Plus I've bought and used
most of the expensive ones, Union Turbo, Nordlicht, for example.
The friction roller is not a reliable method of power transmission, and
certainly not in the presence of wet and abrasive dirt. If you've ever
tried riding a Velo Solex, uphill through slush, you know what I mean.
:-)
Most people used bottle generators under favorable conditions, most of
the time. And then these worked well enough.
Despite all the criticism of our regulations in Germany, the fact that
almost all utility bicycles in this country had and still have
standardized active and effective lighting was better than the bad
American habit of covering bicycles with reflectors on all sides and
hoping for the best. Unfortunately, this nonsense was then also
introduced in this country.