I may also wish to replace the hub bearings (cups, cones and balls). Are
replaceable parts still available somewhere? I used to know of a company
that sold this sort of stuff, but I can't quite remember the name. I think
they were in Oregon, the name will probably come to me... I guess the
rubber brake hoods could also use be replaced if it doesn't cost too much.
Anyone hear or know of the option to get sown leather handlebar grip? The
bike came with red leather on it but that is long gone now.
Finally, and not quite a tech question. To clean up the hub bodies I'd
have to disassemble the wheels. The bike originally had tub rims although
now I have some mavic clinchers on it. I wouldn't mind hearing some
people's thoughts on rebuilding with a tub rim again. I'm not sure what
kind of availability there is on 36 hole tub rims, and probably no sense in
getting some fancy hi-tech rim since the point would be to get back the
retro feel of the groupo.
thanks
don't do it - not unless you want to remove the anodizing, which i don't
recommend. and be very careful to inspect for cracks on the drive side
spider/crank arm transition area.
>
> I may also wish to replace the hub bearings (cups, cones and balls). Are
> replaceable parts still available somewhere?
don't replace unless they need it. proper adjustment does wonders for
how smooth bearings feel.
> I used to know of a company
> that sold this sort of stuff, but I can't quite remember the name. I think
> they were in Oregon, the name will probably come to me... I guess the
> rubber brake hoods could also use be replaced if it doesn't cost too much.
check with some of the bike shops on this group.
>
> Anyone hear or know of the option to get sown leather handlebar grip? The
> bike came with red leather on it but that is long gone now.
>
> Finally, and not quite a tech question. To clean up the hub bodies I'd
> have to disassemble the wheels.
you don't have to - just use an old toothbrush and save yourself a bunch
of effort.
> The bike originally had tub rims although
> now I have some mavic clinchers on it. I wouldn't mind hearing some
> people's thoughts on rebuilding with a tub rim again. I'm not sure what
> kind of availability there is on 36 hole tub rims, and probably no sense in
> getting some fancy hi-tech rim since the point would be to get back the
> retro feel of the groupo.
>
> thanks
you can still get old tubular rims. check out andy muzi's web site -
he's a regular. it's worth it for a proper restoration.
> I may also wish to replace the hub bearings (cups, cones
> and balls). Are replaceable parts still available somewhere?
Tom Ace
> sluggo wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I'm thinking about fixing up a Campy 50th Anniversay SR groupo I have
>> that is on a Gios bike. Are there any particular buffing compounds
>> or similar that are good for glossing up some aluminum? What about
>> removing scuff marks - is it worth it to start with some fine grain
>> sandpaper, extrafine steel wool, etc?
>
> don't do it - not unless you want to remove the anodizing, which i
> don't recommend. and be very careful to inspect for cracks on the
> drive side spider/crank arm transition area.
>
thanks for the repsonse
Anodizing? It hadn't occured to me that bike parts were clear anodized.
I guess they must be otherwise we would all be riding around in white
blotchy groupos from aluminum oxide.
So just give everything a good scrub with detergent/mild solvent? Any
specific recommendations?
> I may also wish to replace the hub bearings (cups, cones and balls). Are
> replaceable parts still available somewhere? I used to know of a company
> that sold this sort of stuff, but I can't quite remember the name. I think
> they were in Oregon, the name will probably come to me... I guess the
> rubber brake hoods could also use be replaced if it doesn't cost too much.
You're probably thinking of http://www.loosescrews.com. But like jb
said, start with just repacking them with fresh grease and the parts
you have. Unless the cones have some nasty pitting, I'd only consider
replacing the balls.
And unless yours are absolutely falling apart, don't bother with the
Euro-Asia Imports brand "replica" hoods they sell. They're made from a
very hard vinyl-like compound, are very uncomfortable to ride on in my
experience, and look cheesy. If you must replace them, and don't want
to spend insane amounts on NOS Campys, look for NOS Modolos or Ame's.
>
> Anyone hear or know of the option to get sown leather handlebar grip? The
> bike came with red leather on it but that is long gone now.
>
http://VeloOrange.com - They don't have red, but their elkhide grips
look and feel fantastic. If you can keep them clean, white grips would
look gorgeous against a Gios Blue frame. Black would be a great and
practical second choice.
> Finally, and not quite a tech question. To clean up the hub bodies I'd
> have to disassemble the wheels. The bike originally had tub rims although
> now I have some mavic clinchers on it. I wouldn't mind hearing some
> people's thoughts on rebuilding with a tub rim again. I'm not sure what
> kind of availability there is on 36 hole tub rims, and probably no sense in
> getting some fancy hi-tech rim since the point would be to get back the
> retro feel of the groupo.
>
> thanks
Betcha A. Muzi has some...tires, too.
NOS Ambrosio Montreal and Nemesis pairs are still frequently seen on
ebay, as are Nisis and Fiammes.
Good luck with your project! Just remember, old bikes love to be
ridden, not just looked at.
See <http://www.yellowjersey.org/>.
P.S. It is either "gruppo" (Italian) or "group" (English).
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"People who had no mercy will find none." - Anon.
> Anyone hear or know of the option to get sown leather handlebar grip? The
> bike came with red leather on it but that is long gone now.
>
Wall Bike sells Brooks leather bar tape. I don't know if it is sewn.
http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/partsandaccessories.html
Many 36h tubular, box section rims available. Ambrosio,
Campagnolo(NOS), Fiammi, Mavic(current manufacture) and NOS.
basically, exactly that. or better yet, just a good rub down with a
cloth saturated in wd40. if the anodizing it badly scraped up, you
could refinish and re-anodize, but it depends how far you want to go
with this restoration. the value in the anniversary gruppo is in not
using it. if it's already been ridden, i'd just clean it up as best as
reasonably possible and keep riding. [keeping a VERY careful watch for
the crank arm cracking from which that that design invariably suffered.]
Must be the summer for retro projects. I just built up a ?70s? Zeus
front high-flange hub. I've no idea if it had anodizing or clear coat
to begin with, but it was oxidized enough not to matter.
I worked it over with a Dremel buffing wheel and Mother's Mag and
Aluminum polish (from the car parts supply store), then Nu Finish
synthetic paste car "wax", hoping to hold off the oxidation. I've seen
reports of good results with this combination, so I tried it. So far,
so good - the polish job shown below is several weeks old.
I got a mirror shine, and I'm hoping the "wax" is enough to keep it,
given this wheel will never see bad weather.
Hub: http://home.comcast.net/~mandmlj/hub/hub.jpg
Wheel lacing is three-leading, three-trailing:
http://home.comcast.net/~mandmlj/hub/lacing.jpg
Good luck,
Mark J.
MAN! That hub polishing job is blindingly good--I'm envious!
>
> Good luck with your project! Just remember, old bikes love to be
> ridden, not just looked at.
>
>
For sure! There's a reason why the groupo needs a good cleaning.
cheers
> sluggo wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I'm thinking about fixing up a Campy 50th Anniversay SR groupo I have
>> that is on a Gios bike. Are there any particular buffing compounds
>> or similar that are good for glossing up some aluminum? What about
>> removing scuff marks - is it worth it to start with some fine grain
>> sandpaper, extrafine steel wool, etc?
>
> don't do it - not unless you want to remove the anodizing, which i
> don't recommend. and be very careful to inspect for cracks on the
> drive side spider/crank arm transition area.
>
>
>>
>> I may also wish to replace the hub bearings (cups, cones and balls).
>> Are replaceable parts still available somewhere?
>
> don't replace unless they need it. proper adjustment does wonders for
> how smooth bearings feel.
>
Actually, I needed to replace the cups years ago. I wasn't able to get
the perfect cup, the ones I installed were the correct diameter, but
just a little bit low on the thickness. As a result, the dust caps on
the ends of the hub don't sit quite right, they sort of sink in a bit.
cheers
The standard Zeus hubs were not anodized. They had a nice polish but not
quite a mirror finish. Campy hubs form that era had a nice satin finish
when new. They weren't anodized either. I found that Zeus hubs were
generally just as good quality as Campy hubs from those days.
I have a front hub like yours with an original Akront sewup rim that I
used as a training wheel back in the early 1970s. The 35+ year old Clement
50 tire still holds air but I'd never attempt to ride on it. It's a wall
hanger in my shop.
Chas.