Cantilever Clearance

[Tom Kunich]

It is getting very difficult to find any good information on a way to get
sufficient cantilever brake clearance on modern touring bikes. I remember
when there used to be a LOT of clearance and yet the brake levers would lock
at about half closed.

But now I have to run the brakes very close to the rims and so if the
straddle bracket gets bumped it's enough to cause one side to drag. So I
have to continually check that the straddle bracket is centered.

What's everyone doing?

[landotter]

No problems here. We just updated D.'s Cannondale hybrid from the mid
90s. Looks to have been top of the line, unfortunately with Shimano
cantis/pads, and 1st generation Sachs branded gripshit. Red Koolstops
front and rear pulled by a set of $40 integrated shimano trigger
levers on Wald 8095s finished with black foam grips. Full lock at less
than half pull and super shifting.

Recommend linkage cable over straddle brackets. They come with even
the cheapest canti brakes for free.

[bjwe...@gmail.com]

Best setup is a very strong function of what types of
cantilever brake arms you have. For example, "low-profile"
canti brake arms like these:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/BR8787.JPG

don't work that well with road brake levers. You're better
off with mid to high profile arms, the ones that stick out more.
You may need to use a longer Shimano link wire or a
straddle cable whose length you can adjust to get the
proper mechanical advantage.

The whole subject is discussed well on Sheldon's pages:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

Ben

[Zog The Undeniable]

Get Tektro CR520 or 720 cantilevers. They are the old wide-profile
design, they're well made and they Just Work, unlike the medicore Oryx
catilevers from the same company.