Converting a Dura Ace rear hub to 135mm.
Phil Wolfe
135mm for use on a touring bike?
I already have the hub and really dont' want to buy another one if I can
use the one I have.
Thanks Philip Wolfe
Nick Payne
hub to 135mm for the cost of the axle and spacers.
Nick
James Thomson
> Just get a longer axle and some spacers. I converted a 126mm
> Shimano Sante hub to 135mm for the cost of the axle and spacers.
It's not usually necessary to use a longer axle going from 130 to
135mm. I've respaced DA and Ultegra 8spd hubs by moving the right cone
2.5mm outward, putting a 5mm spacer on the left of the axle and
redishing the wheel.
James Thomson
Qui si parla Campagnolo
135mm for use on a touring bike? >>
Sure ideally, get a 146mm axle and two, 2.5mm spacers and add it to the hub,
one each side-so as to not change the dish or
add all to the left side and reduce the dish a bit.
Peter Chisholm
"Vecchio's" Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl ST.
Boulder, CO
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
James Thomson
> ideally, get a 146mm axle and two, 2.5mm spacers and add
> it to the hub, one each side-so as to not change the dish
We've given conflicting advice on this on a couple of occasions now.
What do you like about your preferred way?
James Thomson
john.sc...@carle.com
vecc...@aol.com (Qui si parla Campagnolo) wrote:
> << Is it possible to convert a Dura Ace rear hub thats spaced at
130mm to
> 135mm for use on a touring bike? >>
>
the hub,
> one each side-so as to not change the dish or
>
> add all to the left side and reduce the dish a bit.
>
> Peter Chisholm
> "Vecchio's" Bicicletteria
> 1833 Pearl ST.
> Boulder, CO
> (303)440-3535
> http://www.vecchios.com
>
spacers to Campy?
--
Thanks, John Schreiber
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Sheldon Brown
Phil Wolfe wrote:
>
> Is it possible to convert a Dura Ace rear hub thats spaced at 130mm to
> 135mm for use on a touring bike?
> > Sure ideally, get a 146mm axle and two, 2.5mm spacers and add it to
> > the hub, one each side-so as to not change the dish or
> >
> > add all to the left side and reduce the dish a bit.
I can't agree that the first option is ideal. It does save the trouble
of re-dishing the wheel, but reducing the is a very desirable thing,
especially for a touring bike...makes a considerably stronger wheel with
no downside.
Also, adding the 2.5 mm spacers to the right side will mess up the
chainline and the relationship between the derailer and the cassette.
Finally, it is quite unnecessary to replace the axle. The stock 141 mm
axle will have 3 mm protrusion on each side, which is more than enough
for any purpose.
john.schreibe asked
> How about on a modern Campy hub? Can one exchange axles and/or add
> spacers to Campy?
Peter knows more about Campy stuff than I do, but I believe it is not
possible to move the Campy axle over to the side, due to the Campy hub
design. If I'm not mistaken, you'd either need to go the 2.5/2.5 route
or, better, replace the axle.
Sheldon "135 Is Better" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------+
| I'm crazy about the music of Leos Janacek, |
| especially the Msa Glagolskaya and Sinfonietta |
| http://sheldonbrown.com/music.html |
+--------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772, 617-244-1040 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
Adam Rice
wrote:
>
>How about on a modern Campy hub? Can one exchange axles and/or add
>spacers to Campy?
I think Campy is using a fancy axle design now that doesn't permit you
to swap it for something different.
Adam Rice | adam...@crossroads.net
Austin TX USA | http://www.crossroads.net/
Mark McMaster
>
> Phil Wolfe wrote:
> >
> > Is it possible to convert a Dura Ace rear hub thats spaced at 130mm to
> > 135mm for use on a touring bike?
>
> > How about on a modern Campy hub? Can one exchange axles and/or add
> > spacers to Campy?
>
> Peter knows more about Campy stuff than I do, but I believe it is not
> possible to move the Campy axle over to the side, due to the Campy hub
> design. If I'm not mistaken, you'd either need to go the 2.5/2.5 route
> or, better, replace the axle.
Years ago, Campy made a foray into the MTB market, and
adapted its original freehub design to 135mm spacing.
Although probably scarce now, the 135mm axle was at one time
available separately (Loose Screws used to carry it). This
axle will fit any Campy hub made before '99, and a few made
since then.
Mark McMaster
MMc...@ix.netcom.com
Mike Jacoubowsky
derailleurs are kinda picky about where they expect the first cog to be.
Yes, you can adjust it so it can't run past it etc., but experience with
bikes with different-thickness dropouts has shown me that derailleurs work
best with relatively normal dropout/first cog relationships. This is at
least partly due to the slant-parallelogram mechanism that current
derailleurs use...as they move "in" they're also moving "down." If the
derailleur is moving "in" further (due to empty space between the first cog
and the frame, which is what happens when you add spacing there), it's also
moving down and away from the cog, compared to a bike with normal spacing.
Besides, most of us wouldn't give up the opportunity to reduce dish and
build a stronger wheel!
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <vecc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000505090442...@ng-cn1.aol.com...
> << Is it possible to convert a Dura Ace rear hub thats spaced at 130mm to
> 135mm for use on a touring bike? >>
>
>
> Sure ideally, get a 146mm axle and two, 2.5mm spacers and add it to the
hub,
> one each side-so as to not change the dish or
>
> add all to the left side and reduce the dish a bit.
>
Qui si parla Campagnolo
We've given conflicting advice on this on a couple of occasions now.
What do you like about your preferred way? >>
So as to keep the chainline proper and not mess with the wheel-2.5mm on each
side and a longer axle(146mm)
Qui si parla Campagnolo
spacers to Campy? >>
Only on 1998 and previous hubs and if you can find an OR(off road) 146mm axle-
BUT, since the Campag freehub is not bolted to the hub body, like shimano and
others, I don't think it is a good choice for touring-
Qui si parla Campagnolo
"Ideal"-bad choice of words-because of no re-dish, something the gent may not
be able to do-messing with the wheel and doing it wrong will hurt it more than
the increaded dish-IMHO.
<< Also, adding the 2.5 mm spacers to the right side will mess up the
chainline and the relationship between the derailer and the cassette. >>
Really depends on the frameset. On some, it is better to move the casette
towards the centerline, particularly on triples, and it also moves the rear der
farther away from the cogset , which helps on some rear ders as they get tired.
<< The stock 141 mm
axle will have 3 mm protrusion on each side, >>
With 6mm of protrusions and adding 5mm of spacers leaves 1/2mm on each side-is
this enough, for a loaded tourer?
Just asking Capt.-you are 'da man' when it comes to touring info-
James Thomson
'Qui si parla Campagnolo' <vecc...@aol.com> wrote:
> With 6mm of protrusions and adding 5mm of spacers leaves
> 1/2mm on each side-is this enough, for a loaded tourer?
You're counting the spacer twice. The respaced axle has 3mm on each end.
141-135=6
James Thomson
James Thomson
> What do you like about your preferred way? >>
'Qui si parla Campagnolo' <vecc...@aol.com> wrote:
> So as to keep the chainline proper and not mess with the
> wheel
Surely, a bike with 135mm spacing should already have a chainline that
expects a 135mm hub. A road hub with a spacer added to the left of the axle
typically puts the cassette in the same lateral position as an MTB hub. In
addition to the advantages that Mr Brown lists, this means that touring
wheels built on MTB hubs and respaced road hubs are interchangeable without
derailleur adjustments.
James Thomson
Jo or Mark
> It's not usually necessary to use a longer axle going from 130 to
> 135mm. I've respaced DA and Ultegra 8spd hubs by moving the right cone
> 2.5mm outward, putting a 5mm spacer on the left of the axle and
> redishing the wheel.
>
> James Thomson
I think that this would give you problems with mis-presentation of the
wheel in the triangle. The taper of the axle ends (which is all that
would be sticking out past he locknuts by this time) would tend to
allow the wheels to lock into the droputs in slightly different
positions each time. Better to get a new axle and have the required
5mm of axle protruding into the dropouts, for peace of mind, and
longer lived dropouts.
Mark
James Thomson
> > 135mm.
'Mark' <Rossi&B...@macconnect.net.au> wrote:
> I think that this would give you problems with mis-presentation
> of the wheel in the triangle. The taper of the axle ends (which is
> all that would be sticking out past he locknuts by this time) would
> tend to allow the wheels to lock into the droputs in slightly
> different positions each time.
I don't understand what you mean. Inspecting my axles, only about the
last 1mm has any kind of taper, and the wheel can be positioned
consistently and reliably with no greater difficulty than when using a
longer axle.
> Better to get a new axle and have the required
> 5mm of axle protruding into the dropouts, for peace of mind, and
> longer lived dropouts.
If the quick release is closed firmly, the dropouts don't bear on the
threads of the axle. If this were not the case, the wheel would pull
out when honking in low gears. Somewhere on Sheldon Brown's site, you
can see a picture of a q/r hub with the axle cut flush with the lock
nuts. Inspecting one of my bicycles which has seen thousands of miles
of loaded touring and trailer hauling, there's no sign of damage to
either the dropouts or the axle threads.
James Thomson
Jo or Mark
that not a lot of weight gets transferred to the axle from the frame,
but depending on the tolerances of the dropout, and how much the axle
sticks out past the locknuts, you may, and I stress may, have a
problem. Why not be engineeringly precise, instead of dodgy?
James Thomson
> Certain axles have quite a severe taper cut on the end of them.
I've never seen an axle with more than a 1mm bevel cut on the end (certainly
not the Shimano hubs in question), and I can't think why more of a taper
would be needed. What are these 'certain axles'?, and what purpose does the
taper serve? Would you consider it prudent to replace such tapered axles
with standard ones in order not to mis-present the wheel in the dropout?
James Thomson