Headshock upgrade
GKnight137
off-road use. This last weekend after weeks of diminishing shock performance,
the cartidge finally packed it in. It's a DD50 (elastomer/oil), that was
oozing greasy kid stuff from the bottom and bottoming out at every decent bump.
I've wanted to upgrade for some time but now the choice is clear. I
understand that the DD60 cartridge will work in my head tube, nothing else.
The Cannondale web page indicates that this is also an elastomer design if I'm
not mistaken, but any upgrades should include the spring kit. Does this
replace the elastomer or what? Is $99 a reasonable price for this cartridge
and what would be the cost for overhaul. I've read on the newsgroups that you
don't even want to mess with the headshock--leave it to the dealer. Also, what
would be the pros and cons of getting a reducer kit and putting on a
conventional shock (something that at this point I'm dubious of). Thanks for
any thoughtful replies in advance. Greg
J&K
GKnight137 <gknig...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991221133930...@ng-cf1.aol.com...
> I've got a 5 year old F700 hardtail Cannondale that has seen some severe
> off-road use.
I have that exact bike, it's one of 4 cannondales in the house. My wife
rides it in the dirt about 4 + times a week.
I would suggest you speak to the best cannondale wrench you can find. Find
out exactly what your options are and pick one that suits your budget and
riding style -- if you have a choice.
Please don't consider a conversion to an off the shelf fork. The advantages
you get with the Headshok system via integration far outweigh any benefits
from putting on an aftermarket fork. The headshok is smoother than anything
else -- no static friction aka stiction. It's stiffer -- tracks like a
hound. Okay, I'll stop after this one... it's of known quality. You got five
years life out of the last one. What else do you own that's taken as much
abuse and stood up to the test? Putting an aftermarket fork on an F bike is
like having sex wearing pipe insulation rather than a condom. The
aftermarket guys have great products, but your system better; just
proprietary. If you can run a headshok, do it.
I used to sell and maintain Cdales. Here's my opinion: Watch your cdale
dealer work on a headshok. It's not a big deal, it's actually very simple.
<!-- For anyone else reading this--NEVER remove an AIR/oil headshok
cartridge without first letting the pressure out via the schrader valve
located on the underside of the fork just above the tire!!!--!> If you think
you can pull it off, buy a cannondale castle tool and have them verbally
walk you through the high level steps again then go at it; prepared to
possibly come back and pay the shop to do it correctly :-) HOWEVER, I'd say
just let them do the job. Also, it will not be necessary for them to remove
the fork from the bike to replace the cartridge -- just thought you should
know that. Be extra nice if they do remove it and have them really go over
the fork to be extra sure everything is in good shape. I don't know if you
have maintained the fork anually or not, but a headshok should have an
annual re-greasing. It's a ten minute job you could certainly do yourself.
While they're replacing it, ask them how the headset looks. If you don't
already, you should dabble lube around the headset bearings (around the base
of the stem) to lube the headset.
Charles Beristain
that is good advice.
also.. cannondale has a video on overhauling and changing the oil. I
bought it and i feel quite comfortable doing it. I change all the
o-rings at least once a year and change the oil every 40-70 hours.
also, i pour a tablespoon full of 90 wt. oil over the needle bearings
each time i open it up.The oil flows over the bearings and collects in
the boot.. dragging along any dirt that it finds along the way.
One other thing i do... squeeze the boot so i can feel the steerer
tube.. i want it to feel greasy.. it it feels dry...i open it up and
clean/regrease it. Sometimes water can get under the boot and rust the
sliders. This way i can catch the problem before it does any damage.
charlie
Community Leader for Prodigy Member Help.
PWPs:
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John Davies
J&K wrote in message ...
>I used to sell and maintain Cdales. Here's my opinion: Watch your cdale
>dealer work on a headshok. It's not a big deal, it's actually very simple.
><!-- For anyone else reading this--NEVER remove an AIR/oil headshok
>cartridge without first letting the pressure out via the schrader valve
>located on the underside of the fork just above the tire!!!--!> If you
think
>you can pull it off, buy a cannondale castle tool and have them verbally
>walk you through the high level steps again then go at it; prepared to
>possibly come back and pay the shop to do it correctly :-) HOWEVER, I'd say
>just let them do the job. Also, it will not be necessary for them to remove
>the fork from the bike to replace the cartridge -- just thought you should
>know that. Be extra nice if they do remove it and have them really go over
>the fork to be extra sure everything is in good shape. I don't know if you
>have maintained the fork anually or not, but a headshok should have an
>annual re-greasing. It's a ten minute job you could certainly do yourself.
>While they're replacing it, ask them how the headset looks. If you don't
>already, you should dabble lube around the headset bearings (around the
base
>of the stem) to lube the headset.
Very good advice - I always appreciate comments from someone who has real
hands-on experience. Now for a question:
I recently stripped and reassembled my DD-60 for the first time and ran into
a problem that probably has an easy solution. In reassembling the shims I
used grease on the undersides to keep down corrosion. I found that in
sliding everything back together the shims tried to slide out of position on
the steerer tube. I had a heck of a time getting everything back in
properly. I vowed next time to put all the parts in dry (except for the
bearings and bearing surfaces of course) to keep them from slipping. Is this
the solution? Or do I need to use some small c clamps on the steerer shims?
I have been using the Cannondale shim retaining tool on the upper end of the
outer shims.
Ten minute job? I laugh at that statement!!!
Thanks for any help.
John Davies
Monroe WA USA
DOA
bearings/bearing surfaces/shock boot/etc. and reassembly of the headshok
itself as well as covering how to remove/service/install the shock
cartrige? If it covers both I would think it would be well worth the
cost even to those of us that are familar with the task.
Thanks
Todd
Charles Beristain
>Does this video cover removing and replacing/maintaing the
>bearings/bearing surfaces/shock boot/etc. and reassembly of the headshok
>itself
DOA:
nope! .. only all the different variations of headshok cartridges..
how to remove, upgrade,overhaul, and re-install.
Nothing on the bearings/sliders ... I had a tech walk me thru it over
the phone ... that is how i got my training. First one i did, all the
pieces fell out when i took it apart...and of course, the inside
sliders are not all the same thickness... to account for manufacturing
tolerances..so they have to go back into their original places :-(
I've also got a few pieces of paper that were helpful... email me if
you want.
Personal Web Pages
ferretbee
oil & new seal kit (around $6), but not always. Cartridge work is
pretty easy on the Headshoks, but does require the C-Dale Castle Wrench
and some knowledge. Never disassemble the needle bearings though. Did
I say never? I meant never ever ever ever take the needle bearings
apart. They can be reassembled, but it's much better to have seen it
done at least once by someone who really knows how, especially on the
older ones. Anyway, the DD60 cartridge is the solution if your old
DD50 can't be reabilitated, however the $99 you mention does not
include an elastomer. In '97 C-Dale switched from a MCU elastomer to a
coil spring over a MCU elastomer--a HUGE performance improvement. This
upgrade costs around $25. By the way $99 is a good price for the
cartridge, they can go for as high as $120. Good luck, feel free to
e-mail me with further questions, Headshoks are one of my specialties.
Ride the Cold!
http://mountainbikemilitia.com
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John Davies
ferretbee wrote in message <1ca4f2e8...@usw-ex0101-002.remarq.com>...
Never disassemble the needle bearings though. Did
>I say never? I meant never ever ever ever take the needle bearings
>apart.
So how does one clean and relubricate these very sensitive bearings without
completely disassembling them?
Mike DeMicco
<jdavie...@premier1.net> wrote:
You don't need to. The real problem is corrosion on the raced due to
lack of grease. If you inspect the boot often and replace it if there is
a tear, dirt doesn't get in.
You can lube the bearings by cutting the zip tie, dropping the boot
down, greasing the races, and reinstalling the boot with a new zip tie.
You can also get to the upper part of the races by removing the damping
cartridge. Taking these bearings apart without knowing exactly what you
are doing and having the Cannondale instructions to follow as you do it
is not wise. You'll wind up not being able to put the thing back
together properly, the result being a shock which doesn't work
right/damaged bearings.
If the bearings go bad, you will need parts available only from the
dealer. You are better off having the dealer do this rather infrequent
maintenance. I don't think there is anything to be gained by taking the
bearings apart other than to replace worn parts.
--
Mike DeMicco <dem...@home.com>
John Davies
Mike:
Thanks for the valuable info. This is the first place I have ever heard
"don't take it apart" - it sounds sensible to me as long as there is no crud
inside the shock. Do the Cannondale factory mechanics strip the race bike
headshocks very often?
John Davies
Moore WA USA
Mike DeMicco wrote in message ...