VistaLite to LED?? (Longish)
Eric Babula
been able to find any in-depth discussion/instruction about how to
do what I want to do. I currently have a VistaLite NightStick Code
15 light system - one 5W and one 10W bulb, running on a NiMH battery
"stick". I've had the system since 2000, and now the battery stick
is starting to wear out - not able to hold as much of a charge as
when new. Using both lights gives about 40 minutes of light.
Unfortunately, my commute is more like 53 minutes. Right now, as
summer approaches, it's not too terrible, as it's getting light
enough at 6:00am, as I'm approaching downtown Milwaukee (plus, as I
get to downtown, there is ample street lighting to see). But, when
we get back into the fall, I will not have the available natural
light, either coming or going.
Before I get into it, let me say I'm not very good with electronics
at all. So, this "project" will be a challenge and fun learning
experience for me. Please be gentle with my ignorance!
So, I'm looking at three different options for commuting lighting:
Option 1: Get a new battery stick for the VistaLite. Of course,
VistaLite is no longer in business, so it doesn't seem there are any
replacement batteries/parts commercially available. So, the battery
stick replacement I found online
(http://www.batteryspace.com/search.aspx?find=vistalite) is about
$53, plus I'd have to get the connector, and probably a
different/better smart charger. Too much money. Maybe there's a way
to "re-do" the battery stick? Could I just open the stick, take out
the batteries in there, and replace with like batteries? I'm
assuming there'd be some soldering to do, but is it that easy?
Option 2 (the option I like best, cuz it sounds like fun, and I want
an LED system without paying $300+ for it!): Convert the VistaLite
lights into LED lights, using 1W CRE LEDs. I've looked, and cannot
find anyone who has given instructions on how to convert the
VistaLite lamps into LED lights. I've seen lots of DIY LED light
systems - everything from using PVC to brass pipe fittings, to
Altoids cans. But, none that convert an existing light system (mine)
into an LED system. Is this even possible or feasible to try?
Option 3: Use a flashlight or two with the TwoFish flashlight mount.
I bought a couple Brinkman LED flashlights that are 140 Lumens - way
bright! I guess I could just use that - certainly seems to be enough
light. Of course, I have the VistaLite system, and that certainly
looks better than mounting a 6" long flashlight or two to my Space
Bar!
So, my order of preference would be Option 2, then Option 1, then
Option 3. What do you guys think?
somebody
It's 5 cells in series, D size NiMh are pricey. a 6 volt sealed
lead-acid would work, but you need another charger.
>Option 2 (the option I like best, cuz it sounds like fun, and I want
>an LED system without paying $300+ for it!): Convert the VistaLite
>lights into LED lights, using 1W CRE LEDs. I've looked, and cannot
>find anyone who has given instructions on how to convert the
>VistaLite lamps into LED lights. I've seen lots of DIY LED light
>systems - everything from using PVC to brass pipe fittings, to
>Altoids cans. But, none that convert an existing light system (mine)
>into an LED system. Is this even possible or feasible to try?
Check dealextreme.com and go to the flashlight section, especially the
DIY section. I use one of the 3 watt modules and run it off of a 12
volt battery, works great.
>Option 3: Use a flashlight or two with the TwoFish flashlight mount.
>I bought a couple Brinkman LED flashlights that are 140 Lumens - way
>bright! I guess I could just use that - certainly seems to be enough
>light. Of course, I have the VistaLite system, and that certainly
>looks better than mounting a 6" long flashlight or two to my Space
>Bar!
Look on DX for lights that take 18650 li-ion cells. They hold a lot
of energy and you can get a cheap charger
Don Wiss
> Maybe there's a way
>to "re-do" the battery stick? Could I just open the stick, take out
>the batteries in there, and replace with like batteries? I'm
>assuming there'd be some soldering to do, but is it that easy?
I have an old NiteRider. The battery stick looks like five AA-sized NiMH
batteries. I have not tried to open it up. It appears that I would have to
cut it away. I suppose there is no downside in trying.
Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom).
Peter Cole
I wouldn't screw around with the old light, it's obsolete and you got
your money's worth. I've got boxes full of old Niterider, Cateye and
Vistalite stuff. I'm also an EE who does a lot of DIY, including some
LED hacking, but it always turns out to be uneconomical, even factoring
time as free.
For commuting, I'd get this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489
Demo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn9x0QBBp44&feature=related
It's pretty hard to beat the price and the reviews have been good.
A cheaper solution is to use a 2xAA flashlight on a handlebar mount for
around $20-30 (plus batteries & charger). That's what I'm currently
using for occasional use. I like the AA format because I've already got
the charger and a supply of NiMH AA & AAA cells. NiMH is comparable to
Li in watts per unit volume, just slightly heavier. A 2xAA flashlight
with a 3W LED will give you roughly 2 hrs @ 200 lumens, and it's easy to
carry a couple of alkaline AA's in case you get caught short. A 2xAA
flashlight is small and light enough that handlebar mounting is
unobtrusive and secure.
When I just hop on the bike and run a errand at night, I grab one of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20763
I have several. They're very bright, but a little flimsy -- I don't look
for heirlooms in $16 lights. I use them as much or more for boating and
task lights (plumbing, car work, etc,) than biking, head mounted lights
are very handy.
David Scheidt
:Option 1: Get a new battery stick for the VistaLite. Of course,
:VistaLite is no longer in business, so it doesn't seem there are any
:replacement batteries/parts commercially available. So, the battery
:stick replacement I found online
:(http://www.batteryspace.com/search.aspx?find=vistalite) is about
:$53, plus I'd have to get the connector, and probably a
:different/better smart charger. Too much money. Maybe there's a way
:to "re-do" the battery stick? Could I just open the stick, take out
:the batteries in there, and replace with like batteries? I'm
:assuming there'd be some soldering to do, but is it that easy?
yup. I'm not familiar with the vistalite battery pack, but typically,
what you have are a number of cells connected in series. Usually, but
not universally, they use flat-top cells, with solder tabs. These are
the same basic size as regular AAA, AA, C, D cells, except for
lacking the little nub on the positve side, and having solder tabs
attached. The negative of the first cell is soldered to the positive
on the second, and so on. Positive of the first cell is solder to an
output lead, so is negative of the last. There's usually a thermal
protection device. The lot is then put in a plastic case, or
shrinkwrapped, or both.
There are a number of places
that rebuild packs. In general, they do it for about as much as you
can find the cells for (they get ells much cheaper than you or I,
buying a handfull, can, sense they buy large quantities.).
--
sig 98
David Scheidt
:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489
:Demo:
:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn9x0QBBp44&feature=related
There's a US supplier of this light, who sell it fo a few bucks more,
but you don't have to wait on the Hong Kong post office. They also
don't lie about the maker of the emitter.
--
sig 42
Mark J.
Agreed. If you want to DIY, here's one source (can't remember if I used
this one or...)
http://www.batteryspace.com/nimhrechargeablecellsanyo43af12v4500mah1pc.aspx
Definitely get the cells with solder tabs pre-attached. Soldering
directly to a battery doesn't work well and is hard on the battery.
Soldering onto pre-attached tabs is surprisingly easy and quick.
I used the battery listed above (or similar from another seller) to
rebuild my light&motion battery pack. The bummer was when the halogen
bulb blew; it was so old L&M didn't stock replacements, nor could I find
a generic. That's when I built the generator-driven LED of another post.
Another poster correctly pointed out that much of the difficulty in
rebuilding a battery pack is getting the battery case housing open
without destroying it, or building one of your own (huge heat shrink
tubing seems a good idea in that case).
Good luck
Mark J.
Chalo
>
> There's a US supplier of this light, who sell it fo a few bucks more,
> but you don't have to wait on the Hong Kong post office. They also
> don't lie about the maker of the emitter.
Who do they say makes the emitter?
Seoul Semiconductor use Cree dies in their high-flux LEDs. (The P7
package uses four of them.) So it's tecnically accurate to say that
the LED is Cree or SSC, or both.
Chalo
EricBabula
>
> I wouldn't screw around with the old light, it's obsolete and you got
> your money's worth. I've got boxes full of old Niterider, Cateye and
> Vistalite stuff. I'm also an EE who does a lot of DIY, including some
> LED hacking, but it always turns out to be uneconomical, even factoring
> time as free.
>
> For commuting, I'd get this:
>
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489
Thanks for the input, everyone! Sorry, I posted this, and have not had
a chance to read/respond.
So, new developments have happened since my OP:
Yesterday morning, my VistaLite Nightstick died - no bicycle commute
to work. :( The 5W light hasn't been working properly for a while,
and I have not been able to get it going at all the last few rides
I've taken. Yesterday, the 10W light wouldn't turn on, either. I
fumbled around with it for a while. Turns out there's a short in the Y-
cable to the 10W side. If I hold it in exactly the right position, it
turns on. But, if it varies 2mm from that spot, lights out! And, like
the 5W, if I hit a good bump, the light goes off (have to twist the
light housing itself back and forth until I hit the sweet spot to get
it working again). Playing with the cable and twisting the light
housing is not exactly what I wanna be doing while I'm riding along in
the dark! And, given that the battery stick only gives me 40 minutes
of light, it's also getting to the end of its useful life. So, I'm
giving up on the VistaLite.
So I'm thinking of this: In the short term, I want to fix my 140 Lumen
LED flashlight to my bicycle (Topeak Bar Xtender). That should get me
through a week or two or three of commuting while I figure out what my
"permanent" light solution will be. Gotta "jimmy" something up for
that! Also, I started researching the different commercial LED light
systems (MTBR.com is a great resource, with light comparison tests and
all!). HOLY CRAP!!! Talk about expensive!!! I am NOT paying $280 -
$1,100 for a light system for commuting to work!!! So, Peter, I looked
at the Magicshine that you suggested, and read a ton of reviews on it
(they do have a bar-mount option, too). Sounds like, for $85 it might
be a winner! MTBR.com even has a quite favorable review of it, too!
From what I'm understanding, it's a bit of hit or miss regarding
quality of the individual light you might get (they have gotten better
over the last year or two), but for the price, I don't think you can
beat it!! This might change the entire LED bicycle light industry!
And, I'm thinking it would cost almost that much for me to make one
myself - even factoring in labor as free! So far, the Magicshine is
tops on my list for the replacement light system.
I still like the idea of using the VistaLite lamps and convert them to
LED lights. Might be a fun project, just for kicks and giggles. Is
that even an option? Does anyone know of a source (with instructions)
whereby someone did something similar with an existing light system?
This is similar to my VistaLite Nightstick Code 15:
http://www.bikemagic.com/uploads/images/ProductImage/3540.jpg. My
charger is not a smart charger like that, but the light system and
battery stick is the same. Any thoughts/instructions out there that
would help an "electronics ignoramus" convert this into a nice LED
Light system?
somebody
wrote:
A drop-in module might work OK:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11836
They have a variety of sizes. Easy to use, DC goes in, light comes
out. They also have LED MR-16 sized bulbs, too.
Gregory Sutter
> On Wed, 5 May 2010, Eric Babula <mys...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Maybe there's a way
>>to "re-do" the battery stick? Could I just open the stick, take out
>>the batteries in there, and replace with like batteries? I'm
>>assuming there'd be some soldering to do, but is it that easy?
>
> I have an old NiteRider. The battery stick looks like five AA-sized NiMH
> batteries. I have not tried to open it up. It appears that I would have to
> cut it away. I suppose there is no downside in trying.
I used to use a similar NiteRider light; the batteries in mine are
five 4/3 AA cells. When my pack died, in order to open it I had to
cut away some of the plastic casing to the point where the casing was
no longer functional. I got some new batteries, salvaged the cord
from the original pack and built a new battery pack from half a DVD
case and duct tape. That pack worked well for years.
There is no downside if you have access to similar supplies. :)
If you take as much of the original cord as you can get, you may be
able to avoid having to splice more on.
--
Gregory S. Sutter "How do I read this file?"
mailto:gsu...@zer0.org "You uudecode it."
http://zer0.org/~gsutter/ "I I I decode it?"
Don Wiss
>I used to use a similar NiteRider light; the batteries in mine are
>five 4/3 AA cells. When my pack died, in order to open it I had to
>cut away some of the plastic casing to the point where the casing was
>no longer functional. I got some new batteries, salvaged the cord
>from the original pack and built a new battery pack from half a DVD
>case and duct tape. That pack worked well for years.
I don't know what a DVD case is. Probably as I've never had a DVD player
(or TV). In some links on other posts in this thread I find 6 volt MiMH
packs with D cells. I would expect them to work. There were not cheap. My
problem is I don't really need a headlight much. Streets here in Brooklyn
are quite well lit. And for a night trip I can simply take my Dahon Glide,
which has a Dynamo generator and light built in. And if I do want to take
my mountain bike, I have one I can clamp on that has four regular NiMH
batteries. While it would be nice to revive it, I'm afraid it would just
sit there and die again from lack of use.
Mark J.
> On 14 May 2010 08:49:19 GMT, Gregory Sutter <gsu...@zer0.org> wrote:
>
>> I used to use a similar NiteRider light; the batteries in mine are
>> five 4/3 AA cells. When my pack died, in order to open it I had to
>> cut away some of the plastic casing to the point where the casing was
>> no longer functional. I got some new batteries, salvaged the cord
>>from the original pack and built a new battery pack from half a DVD
>> case and duct tape. That pack worked well for years.
>
> I don't know what a DVD case is.
In short, a smallish plastic box, perhaps most relevant for being
commonly available.
Probably as I've never had a DVD player
> (or TV). In some links on other posts in this thread I find 6 volt MiMH
> packs with D cells. I would expect them to work. There were not cheap.
I think you'll pay a premium for D cells as they are not commonly used,
so demand is low. ISTR some "D cells" are AA cells with a hollow shell
around 'em to make 'em fit in a D-cell holder.
When bike light mfr's want higher capacity, they typically use more,
smaller cells in parallel, though you get a lot of capacity out of the
"4/3 AA" cells (or "4/3AF", anyway.) Example:
http://www.batteryspace.com/nimhrechargeablecellsanyo43af12v4500mah1pc.aspx
(This for NiMH, similar for Li-ion).
My
> problem is I don't really need a headlight much. Streets here in Brooklyn
> are quite well lit. And for a night trip I can simply take my Dahon Glide,
> which has a Dynamo generator and light built in. And if I do want to take
> my mountain bike, I have one I can clamp on that has four regular NiMH
> batteries. While it would be nice to revive it, I'm afraid it would just
> sit there and die again from lack of use.
Good reason to go with the generator.
Mark J.
David Scheidt
:I think you'll pay a premium for D cells as they are not commonly used,
:so demand is low. ISTR some "D cells" are AA cells with a hollow shell
:around 'em to make 'em fit in a D-cell holder.
Some are, but it's trivially obvious to spot them by looking at spec
sheets. (And, as it happens, I've got a set of adaptors that turn AA
batteries into C cells, and a set that turns the C cells into D. I've
used them in flash lights, from time to time, and they have a much
longer run time than you'd expect. Not as good as real D cell NiMH,
but not bad.) But there is indeed a substantial premiuim for NiMH
batteries that aren't AA or Sub-C (which is what power tool packs
usually use.)
--
sig 42
SMS
D cells aren't really that expensive in terms of $/mAH.
I.e. eight 10,000 mAH D cells cost $50, so you could make a 12V 10AH
pack for around $63 not including the battery holders.
Ten 2500 mAH AA cells would cost you around $20. So actually the D cells
are cheaper per AH.
"http://www.all-battery.com/dsizeseriesnimhrechargeablebatteries.aspx"
Personally I'd pay a bit more the batteries with solder tabs and not
deal with battery holders.
Peter Cole
Just a quick perusal of a site that sells batteries:
(http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/160/Batteries-Rechargeable/2.html)
seems to show AAA, AA, C & D NiMH cells all running around $1/a-h,
except, contrary to the above predictions, the AAA's having a premium.