Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting Part 1/5
Mike Iglesias
Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part1
Last modified: September 30, 1997
------------------------------
Subject: 1 Introduction
Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information
The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful. Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and some are condensed from postings. Answers include the name and
email address of the author. If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it.
****NOTE****: I am not the moderator or "person in charge" of the
rec.bicycles newsgroups. I also have no way to help you with problems
reading the newsgroups unless you are at UCI; you'll need to talk to your
system or news admin for help.
If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below.
Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen. If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary.
This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers
around the 15th of the month. It is also available via anonymous ftp from:
<ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*>
<ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc/>
<ftp://ugle.unit.no/local/biking/faq*>
Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.
Mike Iglesias
igle...@draco.acs.uci.edu
------------------------------
Subject: 2 Index
(! means updated since last FAQ. + means new section.)
1 Introduction
2 Index
3 Administrivia
3.1 Abbreviations
3.2 Gopher and World Wide Web access
3.3 Archives
3.4 Posting Guidelines
3.5 Electronic Mailing lists
3.6 Posting Guidelines for rec.bicycles.marketplace
4 Rides
4.1 Maps
4.2 Touring supplies
4.3 Taking a bike on Amtrak
4.4 Travel with bicycles - Air/Rail/Other
4.5 Warm Showers List
4.6 Touring Europe Guide
5 Racing
5.1 Tour de France Jerseys
5.2 Major Tour Winners 1947-1996
5.3 Rating the Tour de France Climbs
5.4 How to follow the Tour de France
5.5 Tour de France Time Limits
5.6 Tour de France Points Jersey Competition
5.7 Bicycle Racing Movies
6 Social
6.1 Bicycling in America
6.2 League of American Bicyclists
6.3 Rules for trail riding
6.4 Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike?
6.5 Commuting - How do I choose a route?
6.6 Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy?
6.7 Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists?
7 Marketplace
7.1 Marketplace hints/guidelines
7.2 Bike Trailers
7.3 One Less Car T-Shirts
7.4 Panniers and Racks
7.5 Clothing materials
7.6 Seats
7.7 Women's Saddles
7.8 Women's Bikes
7.9 Bike Rentals
7.10 Bike Lockers
7.11 Bike computer features
7.12 Recumbent Bike Info
7.13 Buying a Bike
7.14 Kids Bike Clothes
7.15 Repair stands
8 Tech
8.1 Technical Support Numbers
8.2 Ball Bearing Grades
8.3 SIS Cable Info
8.4 Milk Jug Mud Flaps
8.5 Lubricating Chains
8.6 Wear and Gear Slippage
8.7 Adjusting Chain Length
8.8 Hyperglide chains
8.9 Bottom Bracket Info
8.10 Crank noises
8.11 Cracking/Breaking Cranks
8.12 Biopace chainrings
8.13 Snakebite flats
8.14 Blown Tubes
8.15 Mounting Tires
8.16 More Flats on Rear Tires
8.17 What holds the rim off the ground?
8.18 Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
8.19 Reusing Spokes
8.20 Clinchers vs. Tubulars
8.21 Presta Valve Nuts
8.22 Ideal Tire Sizes
8.23 Indexed Steering
8.24 Sidepull, Dual Pivot, and the Delta Brakes
8.25 Seat adjustments
8.26 Cleat adjustments
8.27 SIS Adjustment Procedure
8.28 Where to buy tools
8.29 Workstands
8.30 Workstands 2
8.31 Frame Stiffness
8.32 Frame materials
8.33 Bike pulls to one side
8.34 Frame repair
8.35 Frame Fatigue
8.36 Weight = Speed?
8.37 Adjusting SPD Cleats
8.38 Rim Tape Summary
8.39 STI/Ergo Summary
8.40 Roller Head Bearings
8.41 Tubular Tire Repair
8.42 Cassette or Freewheel Hubs
8.43 Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2
8.44 "Sealed" Bearings
8.45 Installing Cranks
8.46 Stress Relieving Spokes
8.47 Traffic detector loops
8.48 Gluing Sew-up Tires
8.49 Common Torque Values
8.50 Measuring the circumference of wheels
8.51 Tubular Fables
8.52 Folding a Tubular Tire
8.53 Frames "going soft"
8.54 Inspecting your bike for potential failures
8.55 ETRTO numbers for tire sizes
8.56 Using a Quick Release
8.57 Tube and Tire Casing Repair
8.58 The Continuously Variable Transmission
8.59 Patching Tubes
8.60 Shimmy or Speed Wobble
8.61 Bike Part Failure Web Site
8.62 Rolling Resistance of Tires
8.63 Blowouts and Sudden Flats
8.64 Tied and Soldered Wheels
9 Misc
9.1 Books and Magazines
9.2 Mail Order Addresses
! 9.3 Road Gradient Units
9.4 Helmets
9.5 Terminology
9.6 Avoiding Dogs
9.7 Shaving Your Legs
9.8 Contact Lenses and Cycling
9.9 How to deal with your clothes
9.10 Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
9.11 Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
9.12 Studded Tires
9.13 Cycling Myths
9.14 Descending I
! 9.15 Descending II
9.16 Trackstands
9.17 Front Brake Usage
9.18 Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
9.19 Reflective Tape
9.20 Nutrition
9.21 Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
9.22 Powerbars Recipe
9.23 Calories burned by cycling
9.24 Road Rash Cures
9.25 Knee problems
9.26 Cycling Psychology
9.27 Mirrors
9.28 Another Powerbar recipe
9.29 Lower back pain
9.30 Saddle sores
9.31 Group Riding Tips
9.32 Riding in echelon
9.33 Mirrors II
9.34 Thorns aka Puncture Vine
! 9.35 Gyroscopic Forces
+ 9.36 Going over the bars
10 Off-Road
10.1 Suspension Stems
10.2 MTB FAQ available
10.3 Installing new rear derailleur spring
! 10.4 A Brief History of the Mountain Bike
10.5 The Mike Vandeman FAQ
------------------------------
Subject: 3 Administrivia
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1 Abbreviations
Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:
FAQ Frequenly Asked Question. What you are reading now is a file
containing answers to some FAQs.
IMHO In my humble opinion.
TIOOYK There Is Only One You Know. Refers to the Tour de France.
See the glossary in the ftp archives for more bicycle-related terms, or
check out Sheldon Brown's Glossary at
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biz/hub/glossary.html.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.2 Gopher and World Wide Web access
I've made the rec.bicycles ftp archives available via gopher and the Web,
and have split the FAQ up into individual files for easier access via
gopher. The FAQ is available via the Web as listed below.
You can access the FAQ and archives via the Web using these URLs:
<http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/>
<http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/bicycles-faq/top.html>
To connect to the gopher server, use the hostname draco.acs.uci.edu and
port 1071. Please don't ask me how to use gopher or how to configure
your gopher client; I don't know how to use all the available gopher
clients, nor do I have access to them. Please talk to your local gopher
gurus.
Again, please ask your local gurus for information on how to use Web
clients.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.3 Archives
I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12). This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time. The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.
For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of items in the archives. I really don't
have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily.
To use the ftpmail server, send an email message containing the line
help
in the body of the message to ftp...@gatekeeper.dec.com. You'll get
a help file back with more information on how to use the ftpmail server.
Here is an example of what to put in the body of a message to to get the
README file:
connect draco.acs.uci.edu
chdir pub/rec.bicycles
get README
README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area
arnie.light Arnie Berger's (arnie....@amd.com) "Ultimate bike light"
bike_gear.sea.hqx
Lawrence Hare's (l...@duck.svl.cdc.com) copy of a
Hypercard stack to calculate gearing. Lawrence says
there is a newer version on major bbs systems.
bike.lockers David H. Wolfskill's (da...@dhw68k.cts.com) summary of
bike locker vendors.
bike.painting Sam Henry's (she...@rice.edu) collection of articles on
how to paint a bike.
bike_power.* Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
consumption. See bike_power.doc for more info.
updated by Mark Grennan (ma...@okcforum.oknorm.edu)
biking_log.* Phil Etheridge's (ph...@massey.ac.nz) hypercard stack
riding diary. It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
and yearly totals. See biking_log.read_me for more
information.
CA-veh-code A directory containing the California vehicle code sections
that pertain to bicycles and gopher bookmarks. See the
README in that directory for more information.
camera.tour Vivian Aldridge's (viv...@tamri.com) collection of articles
on cameras to take on a bike tour.
competitive.nutrition
Roger Marquis' (mar...@roble.com) article from the
Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.
computer.calibrate
computer.install
Sheldon Brown's (Capt...@sheldonbrown.com) universal bike
computer calibration chart and installation suggestions.
cyclesense Larry Watanabe's (wata...@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) copy of
the "Cycle Sense for Motorists" ready to run thru LaTeX.
faq.* The current Frequently Asked Questions posting
first.century Pamela Blalock's (pam...@pcdocs.com) tips on training
for your first century ride.
frame.build Terry Zmrhal's (ter...@microsoft.com) writeup of
a frame building class he took.
gear.c Larry Watanabe's (wata...@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) program to
print gear inch tables.
glossary Alan Bloom's (al...@sr.hp.com) glossary of bicycle terms.
lab.info Erin O'Brien's (bikel...@aol.com) article on the
League of American Bicyclists.
lights Tom Reingold's (t...@samadams.princeton.edu) collection of
articles on bike lights.
lights2 More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.
mtb.faq Vince Cheng's (vcc...@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca) MTB FAQ.
pam.bmb* Pamela Blalock's (pam...@pcdocs.com) report on her
Boston-Montreal-Boston rides.
pam.pactour* Pamela Blalock's (pam...@pcdocs.com) writeup of her PAC tours
across the country.
pbp.info Pamela Blalock's (pam...@pcdocs.com) information
on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.
pictures Bicycling gif pictures.
prof.sched Roland Stahl's (st...@ipi.uni-hannover.de) list of
scheduled professional races in many countries.
pwm.regulator Willie Hunt's (wil...@cs.indiana.edu) design notes
on a pulse width modulated voltage regulator. Originally
designed for caving, this design is adaptable to bike
lighting. The author has parts available in kit form.
ride.index Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's (bush...@lmsc.lockheed.com)
explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the
difficulty of different rides.
ridelg22.* Found on AOL by Gary Thurman (thu...@csos.orst.edu), a
ride diary program. The .exe file a self-extracting archive
for PCs.
spike.bike Bob Fishell's (sp...@cbnewsd.att.com) Spike Bike series.
They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
rec.bicycles. All the Spike Bike stories are
"Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."
spokelen11.bas Roger Marquis' (mar...@roble.com) spoke length
calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.
spokelen.c Andy Tucker's (tuc...@Neon.Stanford.EDU) port of
Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.
spokelen.hqx Eric Topp's to...@roses.stanford.edu's Hypercard stack that
computes spoke lengths.
studded.tires (Name removed by request) compilation
of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
own.
tandem.boxes Arnie Berger's (arnie....@amd.com) notes on how
he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
back. It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if
you want more information, contact him at the above
address.
tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's (jo...@Happy-Man.com) list of technical
support numbers for various manufacturers. This list
used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.
trailers A summary posting of messages about bike trailers. Good
stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.
wheelbuild.txt Sheldon Brown's (Capt...@sheldonbrown.com) instructions on
how to build a wheel.
wheels.*.hqx R. Scott Truesdell's (true...@ics.uci.edu) Hypercard
stack to calculate spoke lengths. See wheels.readme
for more info.
wintertips Pete Hickey's (pe...@panda1.uottawa.ca) notes about
how to cycle in the winter.
wintertips.pam Pamela Blalock's (pam...@pcdocs.com) winter cycling tips.
Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the
directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes
(da...@fysel.unit.no).
Last updated: July 3rd, 1994.
File What
READ.ME Information about the other files in the directory.
bm106a.zip The latest version of Bike Manager. Bike Manager is a
shareware program that help you keep a log of your training
activities. It can report summary reports, weekly reports,
monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your
activities against your goals. And more...
brake.doc About how to make your own brake booster.
gtos91.doc A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.
gtos92.doc Same, but for the 1992 trial.
gtos93.doc For the 1993 trial.
toj93.doc The Tour of Jotunheimen 1993 report.
faq.* Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and
Interesting Information (ASCII text format).
velo.txt Description about Velocipede (TM) for Windows.
velo*.zip Velocipede (TM) for Windows. Velocipede is a window based
training log program based on the ideas in Bike Manager.
Compared to Bike Manager, Velocipede offers a better user
interface, graphic presentation and more. For more details,
see file velo.txt.
Velocipede is a shareware program.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.4 Posting Guidelines
The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group. The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there. Most postings to rec.bicycles should
not be cross-posted to groups outside of rec.*.
Steve Ciccarelli has archives of the last 6 months of the rec.bicycles
newsgroups available at http://blueridge.infomkt.ibm.com/bikes/News/.
rec.bicycles: DO NOT USE THIS NEWSGROUP - it should have been dropped
from news servers, having been replaced by rec.bicycles.misc.
rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
them, and evaluations of these sources. Not for discussion of general
engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.
rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment. Not for products or
services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.
rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.
rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
sociopaths.
rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
organizations. Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
or rec.bicycles.tech.
rec.bicycles.misc: General riding techniques, rider physiology,
injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.
rec.bicycles.off-road: Discussion of riding on unimproved roads, gravel, dirt,
grass, sand, single track or 4x4 roads. Also discussion of environmental
issues, trail issues, backcountry travel, how to handle conditions
(technically and evo-sensitively), off-road magazines and other media.
alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent: Discussion of recumbent bikes.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.5 Electronic Mailing lists
tan...@hobbes.ucsd.edu A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.
Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem
componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection,
prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section
on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc. For more information
send mail to "list...@hobbes.ucsd.edu" with the body of the
message having the line "info tandem", or point your WWW client at
<http://www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html>, or
finger tan...@hobbes.ucsd.edu.
BOB is the Bridgestone Owner's Bunch, and this is the internet
edition of it. This is a mailing list, not a newsletter, and has no
connection with the real Bridgestone-sponsored BOB except in name and
in spirit. Get more information by sending mail to
bob-r...@cs.washington.edu.
HPV list The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the
design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles
and closely related kin. (Hybrid human/electric, for example.)
For further information, send a mail message containing the
following single line in the message, to majo...@ihpva.org:
info hpv
BICYCLE on LIST...@LISTPROC.NET
The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to
discuss all topics related to bicycles, mtn. biking, and cycling in
general. This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to
motorcycling.
To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LIST...@LISTPROC.NET
in the BODY of e-mail:
SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name
For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe
Owner: Chris Tanski cta...@quest.arc.nasa.gov
BikeMidwest
A new regional internet discussion group has been started to discuss bicycle
advocacy issues in the midwest area. BikeMidwest was started to connect
cyclists in L.A.W. Regions 6, 7, 8 and 9. That is, the states of Ohio,
Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,
Iowa and Missouri. Of course, people from outside this area are welcome
to join.
Subscriptions to the list are handled by a computer program called
Majordomo. To subscribe, send a message with the following command in the
body of the message to Majo...@fuji.physics.indiana.edu:
subscribe BikeMidwest
Bicycle BBS
BicycleBBS offers free access to cyclists. The # is 619-720-1830.
The BBS is run by Neil Goren, Ne...@BicycleBBS.Org.
BicycleBBS also has a mailing list. Anyone can join by sending e-mail to:
ARMBRC-...@BicycleBBS.Org and put "JOIN" in the text body anywhere.
VeloNet has a list of some 200 cycling-related mailing lists,
all run under standard majordomo protocols, with both live and
digest formats. Subscribe/unsubscribe requests should go to
majo...@cycling.org
Here are the "international/general" lists:
* bikecurrent - Discussions regarding Bicycle Electronics
* bikeham - Cycling and Amateur Radio Operation
* bikemedic - Cycling and Emergency Medical Services
* bikepeople - General/International list for Bicycle Advocacy
* bike-station - Bike commuter centers at transit stations
* bikes-n-transit - Taking your bicycle on public transit
* bmx - General BMX Discussion List
* coaching - Coaching discussions for racers
* commute-logistics - Discussions regarding bicycle commuting logistics
* facilities-n-planning - Transportation infrastructure affecting cycling
* iccc - International Christian Cycling Club
* icebike - Winter cycling
* ifcmc - International Federation of Cycle Messengers and Companies
* imba - International Mountain Bicycling Association
* marketplace - Discussions regarding buying a bicycle or components
* messengers - Bicycle Messengers and Couriers
* mtb - General Discussions about Mountain Biking
* mtb-trials - Mountain Bike Trials Riding
* moulton - The Moulton Bicycle Club Mailing list
* patrol - Discussions regarding Mountain Bike Patrols
* power-assist - Power-assisted HPVs
* promoters - Race promotion
* race-results - International, Cat A & USPRO Race Results
* randon - Randoneering (touring and non-competitive ultradistance)
* safety-n-education - Discussions of Bicycle Safety and Education
(formerly ca-bike-safety)
* team-internet - International Team Internet Racing Team
* touring - Bicycle Touring
* ultra - Dicussions regarding ultra marathon cycling events
* velonet-admin - Discussions regarding the operation of VeloNet
Web sites:
Trento Bike Pages
http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike/
------------------------------
Subject: 3.6 Posting Guidelines for rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: "E. Paul Stanley" <psta...@usa.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 1997 19:14:59 -0500
All subject lines in rec.bicycles.marketplace should stick to the
following codes.
[CODE]:<Size><Item><Price>
Where <CODE> = FS (for sale), WTB (wanted to buy), WTT (wanted to
trade).
<Size> would, of course, be omitted for some items.
Commercial vendors could use the following:
COM:<spam>
Where <spam> would be the crap enticement to go to the web site, email,
etc.
There is no space between the Code, the colon, and the size of the item
to conserve space and make sure the complete subject comes out.
Following this nomenclature would permit newsreaders to see similar
items grouped together and would highlight spam which would not follow
the nomenclature.
The argument that "I have a buch of stuff to sell/buy so it would
require bunches of posts" is without merit. First, "Regular" people
don't have bunches of stuff so it would be a "COM:" post. Second, if a
regular person does have a buch of stuff, simply post the same message
with the proper subject lines for each item. Several posts, but only
one copy and paste from your word processor.
------------------------------
Subject: 4 Rides
------------------------------
Subject: 4.1 Maps
From: Jim Carson <car...@rice.edu>
Updated-From: Joel Spolsky <spo...@panix.com>
Adventure Cycling Association maps are not free, but you can get them
without joining. To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call
+1 (406) 721-1776 (24 hr). Maps are currently (Feb 1995) $8.95 each to
"non-members," $5.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for
sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for
surface shipping and handling.
Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km. Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary. I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major
changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're
printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar
bag map case.
As of Feb '95, there are three transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast
(N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and a middle route and numerous
routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada.
Membership is $25 individual; $35 family; $19 for students/seniors.
Lifetime is $475; $650 for couples.
Members get copies of Adventure Cycling Association's magazine, Adventure
Cyclist, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by Adventure
Cycling Association, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_. _The
Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on
touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and
touring all over the world. (For example, they have an arrangement with
The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase
full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.)
Adventure Cycling Association's address and phone:
Adventure Cycling Association
(406) 721-1776, fax (406) 721-8754
PO Box 8308
Missoula, MT 59807-8308
------------------------------
Subject: 4.2 Touring supplies
From: Scott "gaspo" Gasparian <gas...@inf.ethz.ch>
Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week). I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).
Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...
FOOD:
Here, just whatever you normally consume. If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour. This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.
CLOTHING:
Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts. However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear. Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended. A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear. If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.
FIRST-AID:
Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists. Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...
TOILETRIES:
I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant. That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff. A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.
MISC:
I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category. Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps. A piece of
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain. Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.
TOOLS:
Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the "how far will I be from
civilization" range. This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.
Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo. If
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to
bring. Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call. I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger
one that actually removes the entire caliper.
pump
pressure gauge
flat kit
wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
chain tool
chain links
tire levers (plastic)
spoke wrench
safety wire
duct tape
zip ties
SPARES:
Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories.
For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks
is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a
velo-shop/store that might have a replacement. Then again, one little
nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if
your velos measurements are non-standard. If you have a hard-time
finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring
one with you.
inner tubes
tire-boots
brake shoes
light bulbs
spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
tire (if you're _really_ out there)
toe-clip strap
shoe-laces
cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)
NIFTY IDEAS:
Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both
humorous and usefull....
mjoh...@shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands
during rear wheel flats)
s_k...@dante.lbl.gov (Steve Kromer)
The most important article to take along on a long ride
seems to be faith.
ch...@wg.estec.esa.nl (chris rouch)
15cm of old tyre
Robyn Stewart <sla...@unixg.ubc.ca>
Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.
sar...@Cadence.COM
bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that
set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the
back of your bike.
cat...@is.rice.edu (Catherine Anne Foulston)
ZAP Sport Towel. I think it is really useful because you can
get it wet and it still dries you.
------------------------------
Subject: 4.3 Taking a bike on Amtrak
From: Carlos Martin <mar...@morticia.Princeton.EDU>
The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike
as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992. It is intended to
offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not
intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak. For reference,
I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.
Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few
precautions. Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage.
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.)
There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box. Call
the station several days before your trip and notify them that you
will need a bicycle box.
The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise. You will, however,
have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars
to fit the bike in the box. Plan on putting only the bike in the box -
no helmet or panniers. (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff
in the box.)
Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem
enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station.
Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure
time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before
departure (they may tell you one hour). Don't forget to keep your
tools handy.
At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape
from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and
the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem. Hold the front
wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the
top tube. Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends.
If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in
ten minutes. Now go have lunch before you get on the train
unless you want to take your chances with train food.
BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if
you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches.
I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation.
(The usual disclaimer applies: I have no connection to Amtrak,
other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user
of the rail system.)
------------------------------
Subject: 4.4 Travel with bicycles - Air/Rail/Other
From: George Farnsworth <geo...@nicom.com>
I checked the FAQ for information about taking bikes on common carriers
and riding in and out of airports some time ago.
At that time there was little information so I initiated a mini survey on
these subject on rec.bicycles.rides, etc.
Now I have collected information on cycling in and out of about 100
airports around the world and using trains in the US and Europe.
This information is at http://nicom.com/~georgef/access. Although the web
may have eclipsed the FAQ for certain purposes, it might still be possible
to provide a pointer to this data, almost all of which was contributed by
readers of r.b.r (who's email addresses appear in the listings).
------------------------------
Subject: 4.5 Warm Showers List Revival
From: Roger Gravel <w...@intercime.qc.ca>
The Warm Showers List is a list of Internet and off Internet
persons who have offered their hospitality towards touring
cyclists. The extent of the hospitality depends on the host
and may range from simply a spot to pitch a tent to meals, a
warm (hot!) shower, and a bed.
This list works on the reciprocity formula. What this BIG word
means is simply this: if you want to use the list you have to
submit your name on it. If you don't have room but could still
help a cyclist, please add your name to the list.
The Warm Showers List is free.
If you wish to be included on the Internet Warm Showers List,
please fill the application form (included below or in the
separate file) and return it through one of these two manners:
by E-mail, to: <w...@intercime.qc.ca> (Roger Gravel)
by S-mail, to: Warm Showers List
C. P. 2921 succ Terminus
Quebec (QUEBEC)
Canada G1K 8H4
You can also apply through the bicycles related Internet page:
[ http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Shores/1337/vh_for_f.htm ]
The whole of the FREE Warm Showers List can be obtained thru
E-mail and S-mail but not at any Web site. A list of some
of the coordinates (i.e. Name of host, Email addresses,
City/Country/State) of some of the hosts are available to
everyone on Internet via a Web page.
Keep in mind that if you want a hard copy of the list you will
have to pay for the postage stamps. Please contact me and we can
talk about the best way to implement this.
On behalf of the touring cyclists I thank you for your generosity.
Roger Gravel
<w...@intercime.qc.ca>
=================================================================
It is as easy as 1 2 3 and it is FREE
=================================================================
=================================================================
PARTICIPATION FORM
=================================================================
Organization: (name of organization)
EMAIL <address> (For pre-trip communication)
Name: (Who are you?)
Home phone: and/or Work phone:
(non mandatory but the work phone can be helpful)
LOC: (Non-Email Contact)
Address (line two)
Address (line three)
Nearest largest city (>50,000 people):
(It's much easier to find a large city on a map than a small one,
and some small ones aren't even on some maps!)
Direction and Distance from above city:
(Some cities are very large and getting through or around a city
can be very difficult.)
=======Will provide:
SLEEP: Lawn (for tent or sleeping bag)?
SLEEP: Floor (for sleeping bag)?
SLEEP: Bed (Wow!)? (Cyclists' gotta sleep.)
Food? (or distance to nearest grocery store or restaurant - if known)
(Cyclists' gotta eat.)
Shower? (or distance to nearest motel - if known)
(It can be a real boost to know shower is waiting at the end of the day?)
Laundry facilities?
Local advice/help? (If you don't have room but could still help a cyclist)
(You can provide as much, or as little, as you want.)
Availability: (If only available some months, please indicate this, otherwise 'year-round')
Cost to Cyclist: (Do you wish any money for your hospitality? if any: How much?) (please, no more than $5-$10)
Preferred Notice: (Do you require advance notice? If so, how many days (weeks) notice?)
Maximum Number of Cyclists: (You don't want a major tour coming through :-)
Storage: (Is there a safe place to store bikes? If so, storage for how many bikes?)
Nearest Motel: (Distance, Cost - if known)
(In case a host is not home, for an emergency, etc.)
Nearest Bike Shop: (Name, Phone, Distance, Reputation - if known)
(In case bike repairs are needed - good to know where good shops are.)
Any additional comments you would like each interested person to know before contacting you?
p.s. To allow the manager of the list to put your coordinates on the Web
page please make sure to include the following sentence : PLEASE ROGER,
PUT MY NAME, MY EMAIL ADDRESS AND THE NAME OF MY TOWN ON THE WEB PAGE
FOR EVERYONE TO SEE in the body of your message.
------------------------------
Subject: 4.6 Touring Europe Guide
From: bhi...@pacific.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand)
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 22:30:56 -0700
GUIDE to BICYCLE TOURING in EUROPE
This guide has been written in an effort to help prospective cyclists get the
maximum out of their European cycling experience. It based on knowledge gleane
d
from my many European tours and those of others, most notably, Chris Wiscavage
who never gave me an incorrect piece of advice.
WHY GO TO EUROPE?
It is important to set some sort of goal for your trip. This can be as simple
as "I just want to have fun!" or, "I gotta get up the north side of the
Stelvio" . For instance, in 1988 my goal was to see as much of the European
Alps as possible, particularly those passes that have played roles in major
European professional cycling races (Tour de France thing, Giro de Italia,
Tour de Suisse) as could be had in about three weeks US to US.
One thing that will be noticeably different to the American cyclist is the
respect that European drivers have for cyclists. Cyclists get much more
respect in Europe then they do in America.
SELF SUPPORTED or with a TOUR GROUP?
There are two basic ways you can tour Europe. The first is to sign up with an
organized tour group. The tour package usually includes lodging, meals, guide
service and transport of gear to and from each day's destination. The other
basic option is to self plan a tour where you, or your small group of friends,
are responsible for lodging, meals, route selection and hauling your gear from
place to place.
The big advantage of guided touring is that you can benefit from the experience
of your touring company and its guides. These people usually have a familiarit
y
with the area you will be visiting and they can make arrangements for decent
lodging, meals and cycling routes. If you are new to traveling in Europe and/o
r
you cannot speak the language of the countries which you will be visiting, then
a guided tour may help ease the tension of being a stranger in a strange land.
One disadvantage to guided touring is that you are part of a heterogeneous grou
p
of people who may differ widely in cycling ability. Also, there is no guarante
e
that everybody will get along and become friends. Some may see the chance to
meet new people as a positive side to guided touring.
Another disadvantage to guided touring is that in most cases, hotel reservation
s
have been made in advance which means two things. First, your daily route is
not particularly flexible since when you leave town A, you must be in town B
that evening. Secondly, if the weather is bad, you usually do not have the
flexibility to layover and let the weather clear. You either have to ride in
bad weather, which is a real drag in the high mountains, or take the support
vehicle or other forms of transportation to the night's destination.
Self-guided touring has the advantages that you can choose your companions,
you can choose the dates you want to travel and if you haven't made hotel
reservations in advance, you can vary your itinerary to meet your prevailing
attitudes and weather conditions.
The downside to self-guided touring is that you are basically on your own.
You make all the decisions. If you are somewhat familiar with the area or
have down some research, you are more likely to make good choices of cycling
routes and places to stay. However, every once and a while you may pick
an unfriendly town or a horribly busy road, both of which looked good on a map
or came recommended in a book. Also, if you experience any equipment failure
you will be responsible for either making the repairs or finding someone who
can do them. Most guided tours bring a mechanic and enough parts to be able
to handle most equipment problems.
This may seem counterintuitive, but I think the more ambitious the tour, the
better off you are doing it in a self-guided fashion. If you are going to be
riding lots of miles with lots of climbing you want to know who you are going
with and also have the flexibility to be able to modify your route if something
happens.
Because I prefer self-guided touring, this guide is written with that type of
touring in mind. However, I feel it contains enough valuable information for
those taking a guided tour to make it worthwhile reading for all potential
cyclo-tourists.
LOGISTICS
Airlines
When planning which flight to take, there are a few guidelines that may be
helpful. I think the key here is that you want to go through customs and
change planes as close to your final destination as possible. If you miss
a connection because of flight delays or custom delays, you have a better
chance of catching a flight out the same day. Reasonable places to clear
customs are Chicago, Dallas/Ft. Worth, Atlanta, Washington DC and Newark.
New York's JFK is hit-or-miss. I have had both very good luck and very bad
luck at JFK.
Also, allow 2-3 hours for making your international connections. Most
airports have separate terminals for international and continental flights.
There may be some distance to be covered to make plane changes which may
result in either you or your baggage not making the flight if you cut the
connection time too closely.
I have had both good luck and bad luck with just about every major airline, so
I
think all carriers are basically OK. One thing to note is that Delta Airlines
and United Airlines are smoke-free on every international flight. Also,
Alitalia offers good fares to Italy but be forewarned that the workers for this
airline like to go on strike at very short notice.
Most airlines have beefed up their security on International flights, they now
verify that all passengers who checked luggage are on the flight. This means
that every time you change planes you have security checks and potential delays
.
Suffice it to say, the fewer plane changes the better.
Air fares differ between high and low seasons, arrival and departure
locations, date of purchase(I am a terrible procrastinator), etc.. In 1986
I flew Denver- > Frankfurt->Denver during low season for $620. In 1988 I
flew Denver->Geneva-> Denver during high season for $1050. In 1990 I flew
San Francisco->Barcelona then Geneva-> San Francisco on the return during
high season for $1200. High season runs from about June 1 to September 30.
An interesting note, one year I was flying to a town near Pisa, Italy. The
far e from San Francisco to Rome was $1000. If I added the Rome to Pisa
connection the fair only increased to $1007. The extra $7 charge was well
worth getting closer to my final destination as the alternative was to take
a 4 hour train ride. So, check when booking fares to see if you can get
closer to your final destination for just a little extra money.
Chris Wiscavage advised against flying by charter. He said that charters are
notorious for being overcrowded and if they run out of baggage space on the
plane, then the bikes are one of the first items to be left behind. On one of
his trips flying charter, he had to wait 5 days for his bike to arrive.
Obviously, the conditions vary between charter companies, if you have one that
you trust and the price is right, go for it!
On most international flights, if you check your bike as one of your 2 pieces
of luggage you will save the $50 (or whatever) charge(each way). Current
international baggage requirements (as of 6/94) are: 1st bag - may not exceed
62 linear inches and 70lbs.; 2nd bag - may not exceed 55 linear inches and
70lbs. I have checked two bikes as my two pieces of luggage and not been
charged for an overage.
Flight delays seem more and more common. I have found that if your flight is
delayed going to Europe, unless there is some catostrophic problem that
cannot be fixed, it is best to stay with your original flight and wait out the
delay. If you try routing yourself through another airline or reaching your
destination by hopping through many cities, you may have a much bigger problem,
especially with your luggage catching up to you. Be patient, sitting out
delays seems to be the best alternative. This is a good reason to avoid
booking hotels in advance. You can almost always get a room somewhere, but
trying to stick to a regimented schedule may cause for major stress.
TAKE a BIKE or RENT?
This is a commonly asked question. There are a number of pros and cons to both
renting a bike in Europe and bringing your own bike. Also, there are several
factors that can influence your decision. Note that on international flights,
your bike can be checked as one piece of luggage, so there really is no added
expense to bringing you own bike on the plane.
First off, if you are planning an ambitious trip with lots of miles and/or
lots of climbing, you will definitely feel better riding your own bike
rather than renting. Add to that the fact that, these days, most rental
bikes are are mountain bikes. This may be an advantage if you are planning
lots of climbing since the gearing tends to be lower, but a mountain bike
is not as nimble as a road bike and can be significantly heavier than a
road bike. Of course, if you r primary bike at home is a mountain bike,
these differences may be less noticeable than if your primary bike is a
road bike.
Secondly, if you are combining your cycling vacation with large portions of
non-cycling segments at the beginning or end of the trip, it may be better
to not worry about lugging a bike halfway across Europe, especially if you
are going to use trains as your primary mode of travel (see "Taking Your
Bike on th e Train" in a later section). Another option in this case, is
to ship your bikes , by train, to the destination where you will need them
if your cycling comes at the end of the trip or to your departure
destination if your cycling comes at the beginning of the trip.
Personally, I prefer to bring my own bike. I know the condition of all the
components and since everything should be in good working order, I can be
assured that barring any catastrophe, my bike will not let me down. Also, it
just feels a lot better and hence more enjoyable to be astride my trusty steed.
PACKING A BIKE
There are many ways and specialized containers to help facilitate packing a
bike. I have flown frequently with my bike for the last 10 years and have
never had any damage when my biked was packed correctly.
Get a cardboard bike box from your local friendly bike shop. Mountain bike
boxes are best because they are a bit wider and easier to pack, but as mountain
bike frames get smaller, road bike sized mountain bike boxes are getting harder
and harder to find.
Here is how I do it:
1) Use 3/4" foam pipe insulation to protect the 3 main tubes (top, down and
seat) and tape in place. Make sure to get the insulation with an inside
diameter that most closely matches the diameter of your frame tubes.
2) Take the seat, pedals, and front wheel off the bike.
3) Use a bit of string to attach the LEFT(non-chainwheel) crankarm to the LEFT
chainstay.
4) Remove the rear derailleur from its hanger and just let it hang.
5) Remove the handlebars and stem from the frame(this may necessitate removing
the cyclocomputer mount, and the front brake cable from the brake - a good
reason for soldering the ends of your cables!) and hang on the top tube.
6) Place a spacer in the front fork (see below).
7) wrap downtube shifters and brake levers with thin foam to minimize
metal-to-metal contact.
8) Put the seat, pedals and other small parts in a bag and place the bag in the
front of the bike box.
9) Slide the frame in such that the forks are just ahead of the bag.
10) Spread the box a bit and slide in the front wheel on the LEFT side(non
chainwheel) of the bike with the front axle about 8-12" in front of the
seat tube. The end of the handlebars should fit between the spokes of the
wheel.
11) take the pump off the bike and securely tape it to one corner of the box.
12) use foam squares(I have about 20 1' X 1.5' X 2" pieces procured from
shipping crates at work) to pad the bike from any potential metal to metal
contact. Be sure to put padding on top of the bike, as you never know which
way the bike box will end up.
13) Close the box and tape with strapping tape. Check to make sure the bike
cannot move around inside the box, there should be sufficient padding to keep
any shifting from occurring.
You can make a very inexpensive, yet very effective spacer to prevent damage
to the front fork from an old front axle. Leave the cones and lock nuts in
place and use the quick release skewer taken off your front wheel to secure
the spacer in the fork.
Bring a small amount of grease (35mm film cannisters work great for this)
to aid in re-assembly and throw in some rags or paper towels for wiping
off the excess grease.
Also, note that if your bike has Campagnolo Ergo levers, it is much easier
to remove your stem and handlebars if you leave a little extra cable during
installation. Another alternative is to loosen the brake and shifter cables,
but this is a last resort as it requires that you re-adjust the shifter cable
tension when you re-assemble the bike, which is a bit of a hassle if you have
index shifting.
One nice thing about bike boxes is that you can pack a lot of your extra gear
(and presents) inside the box. I have traveled to Europe using just the bike
box as my only piece of luggage!
I also bring a roll of the 2" wide clear packing tape. This stuff can be used
to reinforce or repair any damage to the bike box that might have occurred in
transit.
One note of caution here. I would try and obtain a bike box that closely fits
the size of you bike(i.e. if you have a 58cm frame get a box for a 58cm frame
bike). You want to minimize movement in the box and the box should be packed
tight enough so that you can stand it on end or even possibly upside down. I
would not recommend getting a box that is too big and trying to cut it down to
size. I tried this one year and suffered minor damage to the bicycle because
when I cut down the top of the box, I could not get it to fold over very well
and lost some of the structural integrity of the sides of the box. A heavy ite
m
was placed on top of my box and the sides of the box could not support it.
Different bike manufacturers use different strengths of cardboard with their
boxes. And the same manufacturer can change the strengths of their boxes from
year to year. Suffice it to say, the stiffer the better.
I have had poor results using the soft sided bags (both padded and unpadded
versions) and I would not recommend them. I think the foam padding gives a
false sense of security to the consumer, but more distressingly to the baggage
personnel who may attempt to place heavy items on top of the bag.
Another method is to use minimal packing and minimal padding to force the
airlines to handle your bike with care. This method entails removing the
wheels, crankarms and rear derailleur. Turn the handlebars and lash the
wheels to the sides of the bike frame. Enclose the whole package in a
sturdy plastic bag. I have never used this method, it works for some
but necessitates some tools like a crank extractor and crank bolt wrench.
Hard plastic cases are becoming popular. However, I am not particularly
fond of them. Besides being expensive, their weight empty(i.e. no bike) is
between 25 and 30 lbs. Ouch! In comparison, an empty cardboard bike box
weighs only about 5 lbs. The extra 20-25 lbs. can be a real factor if you
have to carry your baggage any substantial distance.
In any event, if you would like to begin and end your trip from the same
airport, you can leave the bike box in "checked" or "left" luggage and pay
a small daily fee for storage. One nifty trick if you have multiple bike
boxes is to tape them together and check them as a single box. Hotels near
an airport may also allow you to store your bike box, usually for a small fee.
PRE-TOUR BIKE MAINTENANCE
In general, the availability of bike parts varies greatly from bike shop to
bike shop. The larger European cities contain well stocked shops, however the
smaller towns(as you find in the mountains) are not as well stocked and parts
may be hard to find. This goes for service as well. It is a good idea to come
prepared to be able to deal with about anything, or have a bike that is low
maintenance (sealed components).
Here is my pre-tour bike preparation:
1) new chain
2) new tires and tubes
3) 4 new cables(2 - brake, 2 - derailleur, esp. if STI)
4) repack or replace bottom bracket
5) repack or replace headset
6) repack hubs
7) clean derailleurs
8) check brake pads for wear
9) true wheels
10) oil/grease freewheel/freehub
11) wash bike thoroughly(check frame for any cracks!)
I would recommend soldering the ends of your brake and derailleur cables. This
keeps the cables from fraying and you can take them in and out of their fitting
s
and housing when packing and unpacking the bike or doing maintenance and you
don't have to worry about losing those silly little aluminum end caps!
EQUIPMENT
This portion deals with the equipment that I take. Note that my lists reflect
that I am doing lightweight "credit card" touring where I sleep in hotels at
night and eat food at restaurants. Some of this equipment may also be
appropriate for fully loaded touring, but that is not discussed here.
Also, since the riding clothes that you will be wearing during the day will mos
t
likely get washed every night, an important consideration is that they be made
of a quick drying material.
Cycling Footwear
When it comes to cycling footware, I think the best option seems to be one of
the walkable clip-in shoe systems such as the Shimano SPD. Having a shoe that
you can walk in has two big benefits. First off, if you have never toured, you
will be surprised at the amount of off-the-bike walking that is done during the
course of the day in order to buy food, take photographs and check out historic
sights. Secondly, having to carry a pair of walking shoes means extra bulk and
weight.
I would not recommend Look cleats for touring. I do a lot of walking which is
unavoidable. It has been my experience that even a little bit of wear on the
Look cleat can make it behave differently in the pedal. While Look cleat cover
s
are available to protect the cleat during walking, during a normal day on the
road you do so much on and off the bike activity that it seemed like too much
bother to take the covers on and off and on and off, etc.
Baggage Systems
There are many options to holding gear on the bike, I will describe two that I
have used.
The first method of carrying gear uses the Quix brand Max Contour Trunk rack an
d
bag in one. A small clamp slips onto the seatpost and the bag clicks into the
clamp. One restriction is that the seatpost must be round (i.e. non-aero) to
hold the clamp. Another restriction is that the bag must ride high enough to
clear the rear wheel by 2-3" as the bag may bounce a bit up and down. The Quix
bag is incredibly stable, it is easy to attach and detach and it does not
require a rack(just a small seat post clamp). It is a very nice system for
ultra-light touring.
The Quix system is ideal for carrying about 550 cu. in. of gear, however severa
l
easy modifications to the bag should be made. First, I removed all the foam
insulation from the bag and replaced the two side pieces with .8mm ABS plastic
pieces cut to the same dimensions as the foam pieces they replaced(round off th
e
edges to prevent abnormal wear). Adding the side stays gives the bag some
integrity and allows it to stand up making it easier to pack. I purchased a
small tool bag shaped like a pack of cigarettes and added some velcro tabs whic
h
allowed it to be attached in front of the Quix bag, giving about an additional
50 cu. in. and bringing the total carrying capacity up to about 550 cu. in.
This is enough space for a multi-week tour, see my equipment list below for
details.
One nice advantage of the Quix bag over the standard rear rack mounting systems
is that for rain protection you can slide a waterproof sack completely over the
bag.
For occasions where I needed to carry over 550 cu. in. of gear, I have used a
Blackburn SX-1 rack and rear trunk bag. I have a racing frame, so I had to use
the "eyelet mounts" which worked fine. I replaced the outer washer(black
neoprene) with a wider one, (get them at a plumbing supply store) and used a
piece of bicycle innertube as padding between the frame and the aluminum piece,
which worked well. I had to file off the protruding tongs on the bottom of the
rack so it would not contact my seatstays; I left enough of the tong so that a
bungee cord could still be hooked onto it.
The bag I use with the Blackburn rack is a Cannondale rear trunk bag. This is
one of the multitude of shoe box shaped bags that sits on top of the rack.
Unfortunately, most of these bags are foam lined(for 6-packs) and they do not
have the 800 cu in. minimum capacity that was necessary for my gear. I removed
the plastic liner and sewed nylon sleeves into the two sides(not front or back
side)of the bag. I made two 5"x12"rectangular pieces of 1/32" plexiglass (or
.8mm ABS plastic) that fit into the sleeves to hold the bag up and give it some
shape. I also sewed some lash points on top of the bag in case of overflow.
The Cannondale bag listed at 800 cu in., it had one big compartment, two side
pockets, a rear pocket(with reflector) and a top pocket. All my medical stuff
fit inside the rear pocket, eliminating the need for a toilet kit/stuff sack.
I put my long sleeve shirt, hat, gloves, leg warmers and jacket in the side
pockets so they were easily accessible. The camera, map(s) of the day, money,
road food go in the top pocket. I hit upon a great way to pack the tennis shoe
s
which takes up minimal space. Rather than crunch them together and lose the
dead air in between, pack them to each side and stuff clothes in between.
A friend has used a rack top bag made by Lone Peak of Salt Lake City. It was
a 1200 cu in. top loading bag and worked well.
I bought a plastic "rack top" that snaps onto the top of the Blackburn rack to
provide a flat surface for the pack and also, some rain protection. I made a
rain cover which fit over the entire bag, since panniers are notorious for
leaking.
Another option for holding a rack top bag is the new rigid, aluminum racks whic
h
attach to the seatpost. Headlands is one popular brand. These racks weigh in
at about 1 lb. and offer an interesting alternative to a full rack. They
require an aforementioned rack top bag and a non-aero seatpost and may provide
a good alternative to the Quix system if more than 550 cu in. of gear is
required.
Equipment List
My normal equipment list(7-8lbs. total weight) is the following (assume you
are starting with a completely naked cyclist). The current miracle fabrics
are Thermax, Coolmax and Capilene. Polypropylene is no longer recommended.
1 pr. cycling shorts(with quick drying synthetic chamois)
1 short sleeve cycling jerseys (quick drying synthetic)
2 pr cycling socks
1 pr cycling shoes(SPD type)
1 helmet and/or cotton cycling cap(washable)
1 pr leg warmers(Pearl Izumi are the best!)
1 medium weight Thermax long sleeve top(converts SS jersey to long sleeve)
1 waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex, etc.)
2 pr gloves 1-cycling, 1-warm(Patagonia Capilene)
1 pr sunglasses
1 pr lightweight pants(North Face North Shore)
1 polo shirt or t-shirt (Patagonia Capilene)
1 pr walking shorts(Patagonia Baggie Lites are light and not bulky)
1 pr undershorts(or Speedo swimsuit, doubles for jacuzzis and swimming)
1 handkerchief/bandana(for cleaning glasses and neck protection from the sun)
1 rain cover for pack(panniers are notorious for leaking)
2 spare tubes(new)
1 patch kit with 8 patches and new glue + several tire "boots"
1 tool kit(spoke wrench, tire irons, chain lube, screw driver, chain tool,
3-4-5-6mm allen wrenches, Swiss Army "Classic" knife)
2 water bottles(20 oz. or 27oz. depending on your preference)
Maps(see below for brand recommendations)
Toilet kit(aspirin, cortisone cream(saddle sores), neosporin, toothpaste,
toothbrush, shampoo, razor, soap, sunblock, comb, fingernail clippers)
Camera + film(see below for recommendations on type to purchase)
Small "hotel" type sewing kit for emergency repairs
1 extra derailleur cable (a must for those with STI)
1 extra brake cable
Notepad and pen
Passport
Cash(Traveler's Checks)
Credit cards(Visa or Mastercard, not Amex)
ATM Card
Driver's License (and extension if expired)
Health Insurance Card
Earplugs(for sleeping at night)
Watch with alarm
Wallet (leave the stuff you don't need at home)
Some optional items may include (if you have the space!):
second pair of cycling shorts
second short sleeve cycling jersey
1 foldable clincher(can be shared with another rider)
1 pr Tennis Shoes(get something with good support for days off)
Bike cable and lock(5/16" X 5' coated Flexweave(TM) cable)
1 pr pajamas
1 Freewheel puller + spokes - if you have a habit of breaking spokes
10-15' of thin cord to use as a clothesline
Electronic language translator (see below)
Miscellaneous notes
Having a cyclometer can help to keep from getting lost. A cyclometer that can
be switched to kilometers (standard unit of distance in Europe) is a big plus.
Also, I like having an altimeter function as well. On the big passes it really
helps me to know how much climbing I have done and how much I have left before
the top.
The synthetic material used in Federal Express envelopes, called Tyvek, makes
great thin, lightweight tire boots. Cut them to fit the size of your patch kit
.
"Fiber Fix" makes an inexpensive kit for use in an emergency to replace a broke
n
spoke.
If you are going to begin and end your trip from the same destination, you can
bring extra clothes for the flight over and the flight back which can be stored
in your bike box while you are on your tour.
The "going light" method does not leave much room in your bike bag for momentos
or gifts. However, if you find something you really like, it is quite easy and
not expensive to mail the item back home. Most post offices sell an assortment
of boxes so finding the correct size is easy. Also, if the item is valuable,
I would suggest sending it air mail. For smaller, more valuable items like
film I put everything in one or two well-sealed plastic bags before placing it
in the box. That way, if the box somehow springs a small leak, you won't lose
that one roll of film wth the killer photos.
Brakes
I would recommend a good set of brakes, some of the descents are long, steep
and quite tricky with off camber and decreasing radius turns, usually
accompanied by lack of guard rail. Make sure your brakes are working well!
Gearing
For gearing a 39x26 or 39x28 seem to be a reasonable low gear for the sustained
climbing in the Alps. Some people prefer triple front chainrings. Your mileag
e
may vary.
TIPS WHILE ON THE ROAD
This section deals with the basic trip details, road conditions, weather, food,
hotels, changing money.
Maps
The yellow Michelin regional maps are the best. There is so much detail, it
is almost impossible to get lost. Having the elevation of the towns helps
plan out the climbs and having the different types of roads(see below) marked
out helps me stay off the more heavily traveled arteries. The Michelins are
only available for France, Switzerland and, parts of Italy. Also, note that
these maps now bear a date(on the back at the bottom) as to when they were last
updated, get the latest version. The yellow maps are in 1cm:2km (1/200000)
scale.
Michelin is now making green regional maps that are 1cm:1km (1/100000) scale
and are much more detailed than the standard yellow maps. They are also more
expensive and larger which makes them great for pre-planning a route before you
leave home but maybe a bit too bulky for taking with you on your trip. These
maps are also date labeled and have numbers in the 100-200 range.
For Italy, I would recommend the Touring Club Italiano (TCI) maps, they are
almost as good as the Michelins and come in 1cm:2km (1/200000) scale.
Also recommended are the Institut Geographique National(IGN) maps, which are
marked with contour lines. There are three flavors green is 1cm:1km, red is
1cm:2.5km, and blue is somewhat finer than the green (blue is usually used by
hikers).
Roads
First, there are different classes of roads, delineated by the color of the
signs. For example, in Switzerland, the freeways use green signs (verboten for
bicycles), the blue signs are for primary roads(bikes OK) and the secondary
roads are in white (bikes OK). Primary roads tend to be a little more direct
than secondary roads, but they have more traffic as well.
The colors for road signs may differ from country to country. Note that in
France, freeway signs are in blue and primary road signs are in green.
One important sign to note is that in Europe, a red circle with a bike in the
center means that the road is closed to bicycles. In the US we are more
familiar with a red circle with a red slash through it meaning the activity in
the sign is prohibited, but in Europe, just the red circle means the activity i
n
the center is prohibited.
Many tunnels in Europe do not have lighting, and some are very long. For the
most part the road surfaces inside are OK, but it's best to play it safe and
slow way down, don't forget to pop up the sunglasses.
The mountain roads are generally good, but deteriorate as you go higher. Also,
the width of the roads can change dramatically from 2 lanes to 1 lane, etc.,
tunnels spring up out of nowhere, and the turns are not marked. However you
can avoid just about anything by being careful.
The roads in Switzerland, Austria and Liechtenstein are the best. France, Ital
y
and Spain are very good as well.
Guides to Paved Climbs
Written guides to paved climbs in the Alps and Pyrenees exist. There are four
separate guides to the mountainous regions in France that describe the paved
mountain passes which may be of use to anyone planning a trip. The guides are
written in French, but each pass has a sort of topographic layout of the actual
climb, giving the percent grade for each kilometer, which is very useful.
The four guides are(denoted by the subtitle "ALTIGRAPH Edition"):
1) Atlas des Cols des Alpes - North(everything north of the Col du Galibier)
2) Atlas des Cols des Alpes - South(everything south of the Col du Galibier)
3) Atlas des Cols des Pyrenees
4) Atlas des Cols du Massif Central
They cost about 110ff($20 US) each (they take credit cards!) and are
available from:
Au Vieux Campeur
14 Rue des Ecoles
75005 Paris France
Telephone # +33-1.43.29.12.32 (magasins/shops, librairie/book shop)
Fax : +33-1.60.11.89.66 & +33-1.60.11.70.38
POINTS of ENTRY to EUROPEAN MOUNTAINS
Choosing the correct port of entry can depend on a number of factors. If you
have lots of time and resources, but not much money, you might try to fly into
an airport that has great fares, but is relatively far from your starting point
.
Frankfurt is a good example, with lots of reasonable fares from the US and with
rail service right out of the airport to many of the starting points for popula
r
tours.
If you have a time constraint, you may want to try and get as close as possible
to your starting point. Another option is to get a one-way rental car so that
you can drive directly from the airport to your starting point. Be warned that
with gasoline prices in Europe between $4 and $5/gallon and with freeways in
France and Italy charging tolls to use their roads, the oveall cost of renting
a car can be much greater than the actual car rental charge.
Below is a list of points of entry to the various mountainous regions of Europe
:
1) Geneva - good for the Alps and the Jura mountains. There is a train station
in the airport to get you out of town fast.
2) Milan - good for the Italian and Swiss Alps. You can leave luggage in the
airport. The airport is a fair ways northeast of the city, there is bus servic
e
to the train station downtown.
3) Nice - very nice starting point for the Maritime Alps and Provence. You can
ride your bike right out of the airport.
4) Barcelona - about 100 miles south of the eastern end of the Pyrenees.
5) Paris - you can take a TGV (bullet train) south to the Pyrenees or east to
the Alps.
6) Zurich - close to the Swiss Alps.
CHANGING MONEY
First off, it should be noted that Europeans are embracing credit cards. One
big advantage to using credit cards to pay for everything is that you get a muc
h
better exchange rate than by changing your US cash (or Traveler's Checks) into
local currency. In 1996, using credit cards gave about a 7% savings over cash.
ATM cards are also becoming popular. They offer similar savings as credit card
s
as long as you are not charged a high fee by your bank for using it. I have
heard that sometimes the transaction fee can be as high as $5. Interestingly,
most banks charge about $5 for exchanging money!
If you are in the Alps, you should keep a good supply of the local currency as
banks are not always easy to find(except resort towns). Hotels will change
money, use this as a last resort as the exchange rate is not always good.
I have found that most banks have the same exchange rate, so shopping around is
seems to be a waste of time. Remember, you can change your current currency as
well as your US stuff when you change countries. However, if you are in France
and want to change US currency into Italian lire, you will most likely be
charged two transaction fees, one for changing from US to French francs and one
for changing the French francs to Italian lire.
As a general rule, you cannot change small denomination coins. If you are
anticipating leaving a country be sure to use up all your small change or be
prepared to just give it away at the border.
DEALING WITH JET LAG
Jet lag is a problem, especially if you are coming from the West Coast which
means an 8-9 hour time difference. It is advised that you try to get on the
local time standard as soon as possible. If you arrive in Europe in the mornin
g
try to stay up and sleep when night comes to Europe rather than taking a nap
right away and then lying awake when it is dark outside.
GENERAL STUFF
Except in big cities, everything in the towns shut down from 12pm(noon) to
around 3pm. This means markets, banks, basically everything you need.
Restaurants are open, but a big meal is a no-no. I found it was better to buy
food at a super market in the morning and just munch a bit about every 2 hours.
Typical road food was fruit(bananas, nectarines, peaches), cookies, candy bars
and bread.
In Spain, everything shuts down from 1pm-4pm and dinner is not usually served
until 8:30 or so. In Italy and France, everything shuts down from about 12:30
pm to 4pm and dinner is not usually served till 7pm.
FINDING HOTELS
The "Office of Tourism" is a good place to start looking for hotels. The
tourist office can provide a list of hotels graded by stars and may also make
recommendations. I prefer the 2 and 3 star hotels(out of a possible 5), the
firmness of the bed and noisiness of the street outside were the major factors
influencing my decision.
The average price of 2-3 star hotels for 2 twin beds and a toilet with shower
was $40-$70. I have found that in France and Italy, 3 star hotels are quite
nice and 2 star hotels are adequate. In Switzerland 2 star hotels are very
nice.
It should also be mentioned that since most hotels do not have air conditioning
,
you need to do everything possible to get a cool room. If you need to keep the
windows open, try and get a room away from the street side of the hotel or the
noise will keep you up(believe me, this is important). Earplugs help somewhat.
A couple of tricks to stiffen up soft beds are to put the mattress on the floor
or you can take a door off of a closet and put it between the springs and the
mattress.
Many European hotels use down comforters instead of blankets on their beds. If
you sleep hot, like me, you can remove the comforter cover and use it as a
blanket.
FOOD
Breakfast
Most hotels in Europe are now charging ($5 to $7) for their continental
breakfast (le petit dejuneur). If you are unsure if there is a charge it is
best to ask. If you don't need a latte to get going in the morning a less
expensive alternative is to buy some pastries at the local bakery the night
before and eat them in your hotel room before departing. Most hotels are open
for breakfast from 7:30am to 9:00am.
Lunch
Most bars and restaurants offer simple sandwiches at reasonable prices. A
cheese sandwich runs about $3, while ham and cheese is around $4. In Italy,
these simple sandwiches are called paninis.
Dinner
I'm not a big food gourmet. For dinner, I stick with the basics. Spaghetti,
lasagne, pizza, grilled meats, etc.. If you try something exotic and your
stomach gets upset, you won't be able to ride. If you are looking for good
food, get some recommendations before you leave or be prepared to swig some
Pepto. As we say in America, "If you can't pronounce it, you might not want
to eat it".
WEATHER
You should come to Europe prepared to get wet. Yes, it rains there in the
summer.
It can be hot at the lower elevations in the summer, if you sleep at higher
altitudes(>1000 meters) you may be able to beat the heat.
Some regions have predictable weather conditions such as the 15-20mph wind that
seems to always blow up the Sion valley from Maritgny towards Brig.
The best month to tour in the Alps is July. The weather is reasonably settled
and the days are warm. September is a good second choice, though the weather i
s
a bit more unsettled and it can turn cold and actually snow. Also, in
September, it is possible that the hotels at major ski resorts, like Sestriere
and Isola 2000, may be closed as they prepare for the upcoming season. Check
before heading up that next climb.
I would not recommend going to the Pyrenees Mountains during the month of July
(possibly even August). Even though there are a lot of 4000' climbs, the passe
s
are for the most part low altitude compared to the Alps(1500-2000 meters versus
2000-2700 meters) and because of this it is quite hot. A better time for the
Pyrenees is May, June or September. Also, I found the Pyrenees to be quite
beautiful but, I really like the ruggedness of the Alps and the roads in the
Pyrenees did not pass by much of this type of scenery(though it does exist via
hiking trails).
August seems to be a bad time for a tour. All of Europe goes on vacation. Thi
s
means that the roads and accommodations are crowded and the air pollution is
also bad.
BEING IN SHAPE
Because I am on vacation, I am not going over to Europe to suffer on every
climb, so being in shape is of tantamount importance. Plan your pre-trip
riding depending on the type of trip you are going to do. I live for
switchbacks so I go to Europe to ride the passes, so I try to do a lot of
climbing on my rides in the US.
PEOPLE
I find everybody pretty friendly. In most countries, the people attempt to
speak English once you attempted a conversion in their native tongue (especiall
y
the French). Try to respect the native customs.
TAKING YOUR BIKE ON THE TRAIN
I would avoid checking baggage(this includes bikes) on a train unless you
can afford to be separated from it for up to a week after you reach your
destination. This is because on European trains, the baggage cars are not
necessarily hooked up to the passenger trains which means you can wait for
days for your luggage to arrive(I saw this happen to a Canadian guy in 1990).
I have been told that there are some trains in Italy that include a special
baggage car the will hold bikes. You may want to check into this if your
proposed itinerary includes travel by train. The key here is that you want
to make sure that both you and your bike are on the same train.
On Swiss and German trains there is space at the end of most cars where
you can leave baggage, which is where I put my bike. In France and Italy,
I suspended the bike above the seats in the two opposing luggage racks(great
trick!). There is a chance that a conductor may be displeased by the bike
and start making all sorts of gyrations about the bike having to be sent
as baggage. Just play dumb and as long as you are not taking up too much
space they will usually let you slide.
Unfortunately, in 1992, I came under the wrath of every train conductor in
Europe. I never got separated from my bike, but I had to pay an extra charge
for having my bike with me on the train($30 US). However, I would rather be
verbally abused than be separated from my bike!
On interesting thing about bikes on passenger trains, in 1992 I took the
TGV from Paris to Pau and was not hassled about my bike because it was
still in the box and in the back of the car. You may be able to cut
down on your hassle quotient by keeping you bike in your box until you
really need it. Just a thought.
Train service is not available in all towns (especially in the mountains).
However, bus service usually is available and you can use the bus to connect
to a train station. Your bike has to travel in the baggage compartment,
it is a bit risky since the bike may move around a bit with all the luggage
so take care in helping the driver put it in a good location.
MISCELLANIA
1) I have a ritual for taking care of necessary business (most notably
washing my cycling clothes) when I arrive at my day's destination and
get into my hotel room:
a) take off all my cycling clothes and place them in the sink with soap
to wash
b) after 5-10 minutes rinse soap out of cycling clothes and use the fresh
clean bath towels to ring them as dry a possible. A quick way to help
wring out your freshly washed riding clothes is to spread the wet garment
on a dry towel. Roll the garment up in the towel and use your knee to press
the rolled towel. Unroll the towel and hang the garment to dry.
c) hang the clothes to dry, if done properly they should be ready for the
next morning. Theft proof hangers may present a problem. One trick is to
bring some thin clothesline to hold the hangers.
d) take my shower and use the slightly wet towels to dry(this works fine).
e) there are some really good, super-concentrated laundry soaps such
as ultra-strength Wisk which work well for washing clothes and are
concentrated enough so that a little goes a long way.
2) Be careful when buying film in Europe. Some of the film prices include
processing charges. It is best to ask what's what.
3) I did not find it necessary to take a travel guide(such as the Michelin
Red Guide), but it may be helpful for pre-trip planning.
4) There are a number of pocket calculators that serve as language translators.
I have one that translates between English, French, Spanish, German and
Italian. It also converts miles to kilometers, degrees farenheit to degrees
centigrade and currency rates(you enter the ratios) and all for about $40!
5) Beware of national holidays. Once I was out of francs in France during
Bastille Day, not pleasant.
6) Many mountain passes have restaurants on top which is great for getting
a soda or candy bar. However, be forewarned that a can of Coke can cost
3-4 times as much at a bar than at a supermarket.
7) If you need to make long distance phone calls you can save a significant
amount of money by using a pay phone and your calling card rather than
using the phone in your hotel room. Most hotels use a computer to estimate
the actual phone charges and these estimates can sometimes be over three
times the actual charges. The calling card method bills you for only the
actual charges.
8) Phone cards are becoming the norm in Europe. You can buy them at newstands
and at Bar/Tobacco shops.
9) Some countries may require a separate Visa(like France used to), be sure
to check with your travel agent or the State Department.
10) When buying stamps for postcards, make sure you ask for Air Mail stamps
otherwise it can take up to 3 months for the cards to arrive in the US.
Also, it is much cheaper to mail postcards in France ($0.80 US) than
Switzerland ($1.80 US), so if you are sending lots of cards you can save
quite a lot of money by mailing them in the correct country.
11) If you are shipping and parcels to Europe(or vice versa), allow 8 weeks
for delivery if sent surface, about 2 weeks for air mail.
12) If you have Shimano Hyperglide shifting, I would consider also carrying
a chain tool. In the past several years, with the popularity of STI,
I have noticed more and more people stopped by the side of the road
with a broken chain. Some emergency versions of a chain tool, such as
the Ritchey CPR 5 are very light.
13) If you buy bus or train tickets, you should specify up front if you
would like a one-way or round trip ticket. Some locations assume the
default is one-way, others assume round-trip.
14) Staying hydrated(i.e. drinking water) is really important. Most towns
have fountains or pipes flowing into water troughs. The general rule is
that unless there is a sign that says the water is not fit for drinking
("eau non potable", "verboten") then you can drink it.
15) Instead of carrying lots of medicines that you may or may not need
like cold medicines, write down the name and amounts of the ingredients
of your favorite US medicines so that you can compare and buy the same
products if needed.
16) Plastic bags can be your savior in wet and/or cold weather. Plastic
bags placed on your feet before putting on socks, plastic inside your
leg warmers or on your chest can help cut the cold dramatically.
17) Food labeling is not the same as it is in the US. For example,
the Nutrasweet label is not found on diet soda, so beware.
18) I take 2-3 energy bars for use from the time my plane touches down
and I have my bike together and have hit the road. There are a lot of
things to do when you arrive at the airport and before you reach your
first town. Having an easy source of food makes those hectic moments
much easier.
19) if you are going to leave your bike box at the airport (or hotel)
you can stash things like extra clothes, et. al. to make the trip over
and the return a little more comfortable and hygenic.
20) rather than change your foreign currency back to US money when you
return home, save it for future use when you return for your next adventure.
21) There is an interesting effect that seems to occur in Europe. Early
in the morning the combination of low light and some haze can make it look
like a bad day of weather is coming. However, once the sun climbs a bit
in the sky, everything burns off and a glorious day arrives.
22) In Italy, it is cheaper to mail packages back to the states if you
give the customs officials the permission to open the parcel when it is
leaving the country.
23) One way to make a great vacation with a short amount of time is to
arrange a one way drop-off car which can be used to get you to the prime
cycling territory quickly. Arranging for the car in the states can save
a lot of money.
24) People like to smoke a lot in Europe, especially in their hotel rooms.
If your hotel room is filling up with smoke, place a towel against the
floor of the door jam to stop the flow.
25) If you anticipate doing any cycling in your street clothes, you might
want to think about including a seatcover. The seatcover keeps any
grease, grime, etc. on your saddle from transferring to your good clothes.
26) A neat trick for drying out wet cycling shoes is to pack them tightly
with dry newspaper. I have had totally soaked shoes dry out overnight.
27) Some antibiotics increase your sensitivity to sunlight. Be certain that
you know what the side effects of your medications are before you leave on your
trip.
28) On the top of many of the mountain passes, the shop(s) selling postcards
usually has a rubber stamp. Geting your postcards stamped on top of the pass
makes them more "official" ("you were there") in some circles.
DAY TRIPPING
If someone wanted to avoid the hassles of carrying gear and just wanted
to find a nice town for some day trips, my first choice would be
Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy. Situated in the heart of the Dolomites, Cortina
has incredible, and I mean incredible, scenery and many great passes(don't
miss the ride up to the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, it's a great walk to
circumnavigate the base as well). You can plan trips from 30 to 150+ miles
of some of the best riding in the world.
My second choice would be Andermatt, Switzerland gateway to the Susten,
Furka, Gothard and Oberalp passes and close to Wilhem Tell's birthplace(he
didn't really exist but, there's a monument anyway). The day rides here are
longer and more strenuous but, you won't be disappointed.
Also recommended is the northern Italian town of Bormio. The Stelvio,
Gavia, Bernina, Foscagno and Mortirolo are all within a day's ride.
------------------------------
Subject: 5 Racing
------------------------------
Subject: 5.1 Tour de France Jerseys
From: Chris Murphy <mur...@bionette.CGRB.ORST.EDU>
Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:
YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF
started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto
(Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing.
POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points
scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain
stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the
difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933.
GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points
given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.
YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the
the team's top 3 riders.
In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears
the category jersey.
------------------------------
Subject: 5.2 Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
From: Tim Smith <tsm...@gryphon.CTS.COM>
[Ed note: I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]
Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:
Tour de France Giro d'Italia Vuelta d'Espana
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
1947 Jean Robic (F) Fausto Coppi (I) E. van Dyck (B)
1948 Gino Bartali (I) F. Magni (I) B. Ruiz (E)
1949 Fausto Coppi (I) F. Coppi (not held)
1950 Ferdi Kubler (CH) Hugo Koblet (CH) E. Rodriguez (E)
1951 Hugo Koblet (CH) F. Magni (nh)
1952 Fausto Coppi F. Coppi (nh)
1953 Louison Bobet (F) F. Coppi (nh)
1954 Louison Bobet C. Clerici (CH) (nh)
1955 Louison Bobet F. Magni J. Dotto (F)
1956 Roger Walkowiak (F) Charly Gaul (L) A. Conterno (I)
1957 Jacques Anquetil (F) Gastone Nencini (I) J. Lorono (E)
1958 Charly Gaul (L) E. Baldini (I) Jean Stablinski (F)
1959 Federico Bahamontes (E) Charly Gaul A. Suarez (E)
1960 Gastone Nencini (I) Jacques Anquetil (F) F. de Mulder (B)
1961 Jacques Anquetil A. Pambianco (I) A. Soler (E)
1962 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion (I) Rudy Altig (D)
1963 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion J. Anquetil (F)
1964 Jacques Anquetil Jacques Anquetil Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965 Felice Gimondi (I) V. Adorni (I) R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966 Lucien Aimar (F) Gianni Motta (I) F. Gabica (E)
1967 Roger Pingeon (F) Felice Gimondi (I) J. Janssen (NDL)
1968 Jan Janssen (NDL) Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi (I)
1969 Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi Roger Pingeon (F)
1970 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx Luis Ocana (E)
1971 Eddy Merckx Gosta Petersson (S) F. Bracke (B)
1972 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente (E)
1973 Luis Ocana (E) Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx (B)
1974 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente
1975 Bernard Thevenet (F) F. Bertoglio (I) Tamames (E)
1976 Lucien van Impe (B) Felice Gimondi J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977 Bernard Thevenet Michel Pollentier (B) Freddy Maertens (B)
1978 Bernard Hinault (F) J. de Muynck (B) Bernard Hinault (F)
1979 Bernard Hinault Giuseppe Saronni (I) Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980 Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) Bernard Hinault (F) F. Ruperez (E)
1981 Bernard Hinault Giovanni Battaglin (I) Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983 Laurent Fignon (F) Giuseppe Saronni (I) Bernard Hinault (F)
1984 Laurent Fignon Francesco Moser (I) Eric Caritoux (F)
1985 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Pedro Delgado (E)
1986 Greg Lemond (USA) Roberto Visentini (I) Alvaro Pino (E)
1987 Stephen Roche (EIR) Stephen Roche (EIR) Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988 Pedro Delgado (E) Andy Hampsten (USA) Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989 Greg Lemond (USA) Laurent Fignon (F) Pedro Delgado (E)
1990 Greg Lemond (USA) Guanni Bugno (I) Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991 Miguel Indurain (E) Franco Chioccioli (I) Melchior Mauri (E)
1992 Miguel Indurain (E) Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH)
1993 Miguel Indurain (E) Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH)
1994 Miguel Indurain (E) Eugeni Berzin (RUS) Toni Rominger(CH)
1995 Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH) Laurent Jalabert (FR)
1996 Bjarne Rijs (DK) Pavel Tonkov (RUS) Alex Zulle (CH)
The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.
Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.
One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were
big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)
There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949.
In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.
------------------------------
Subject: 5.3 Rating the Tour de France Climbs
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com>
One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK).
The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of
the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage. A third,
and much lesser criteria, is the quality of the road surface.
It is important to note several things before this discussion begins.
First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their
classifications of climbs. The north side of the Col de la Madeleine
has flip-flopped between a 1st Category to an Hors Category climb,
even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every
year.
Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised
its ugly head here. Climbs that used to be a 2nd Category are now a
1st Category, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same
position in a stage year after year.
Let's talk about the ratings. I will give you my impressions
on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on
having ridden over 100 of the rated climbs in the major European
tours.
Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades. It has been my
observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get
rated. Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.
The organizers of the Tour de France also claim that the quality of
the road surface can influence the rating of a climb. If the surface
is very poor, like some of the more obscure climbs in the Pyrenees,
then the rating may be bumped up.
4th Category - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).
3rd Category - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).
2nd Category - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)
1st Category - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)
Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)
Points awarded for the climbs ranges are as follows (from the 1990
race bible):
4th Category: 3 places: 5, 3, 1
3rd Category: 5 places: 10, 7, 5, 3, 1
2nd Category: 10 places: 20, 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1
1st Category: 12 places: 30, 26, 22, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1
Hors Category: 15 places: 40, 35, 30, 26, 22, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1
Steepness also plays a factor in the rating. Most of the big climbs
in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average
8-9%.
Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and
that there are exceptions to every rule. For example, L'Alpe D'Huez
climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb. This is because
it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself
is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards.
More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside
of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains. I have seen it rated anywhere from
a 3rd Category to a 1st Category !!! This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage. The 3rd Category rating came when it was near the
beginning of a stage where its 1st Category rating came when it was near
the end.
Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating. Such sections
offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty of the climb
considerably. This may be one of the reasons that the aforementioned
Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/flat section at mid-height,
flip-flops in its rating.
I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in
Europe. Most of the US climbs are either steep enough by European
standards(6-8% grade), but are short(5-10km) so they fall into the
3rd Category or 2nd possibly; or the climbs gain enough altitude, but
are too long(they average <5%) so again they would fail to break
the 1st Category barrier and end up most likely a 2nd or 3rd Category.
Fear not, there are exceptions. Most notable to Californians is
the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Pauma Valley climbs
4200' in 11 miles, a potential 1st Category ascent, though it may
fall prey to downgrading because of the flat section at mile four.
The east side of Towne Pass in Death Valley is definitely a 1st
Category climb!
A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to
Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a 1st Category climb because of two
offending downhill section on the ascent and an overall gradient of 5%.
For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long,
but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles). I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23
on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude. Gear ratios of
39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very
telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs.
One potential 1st Category climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft.
climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.
Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads. Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction. This makes it difficult
to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.
Also, it should be noted that there is not a single uniform rating scheme
for all the races on the UCI calendar. What one race might call a 1st
Category climb, may be called a 2nd Category climb, even though the stages
of the two races are almost identical.
One last note. I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of
climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals.
I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now. It
is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how
fast the pros climb the big passes. Pace makes all the difference.
Riding a climb is very different than racing it.
Bruce Hildenbrand
bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com
------------------------------
Subject: 5.4 How to follow the Tour de France
From: Tom James <tomj...@chem1.usc.edu>
A question was recently posted to r.b.r concerning ways to follow the
Tour de France. Here are a few comments about my own trips to France over
the last five years, which may be of relevance to people who want to
watch the race and have access to either a bike or a car.
I've seen the Tour every year since 1991, always in the Alps or the
Pyrenees. In addition, I've watched the Paris Stage in 1993/5, and the
British stages in 1994, so all in all, I've a fair amount of experience.
In 1991 and 1992 I watched as part of longer cycle tours in the Alps,
stopping off to watch in the course of a ride from one place to another
(in 1991 in the Arly Gorge, and in 1992 on the Galibier). On both
occasions, the combination of my own abilities (only averaging ca. 60
miles/day) and the Tour's itinery meant that seeing the race more than
once was not really feasible.
In 1993, 93 and 95 we (myself + 3 friends) organised things differently.
Basically, we took a car with the bikes on the roof and camped in the
vicinity of the tour. It was then normally possible to see two days of
racing (ie, somewhere near the end one day and near the beginning the
next) before moving on to a new campsite perhaps 100 or 150 miles away
to get another couple of days in. For example, in 1994, in addition to
the Brighton and Portsmouth stages, we also saw the tour on l'Alpe
d'Huez; on the Col de la Colombiere; on the Col de Joux Vert (2km from
the finish of the Avoriaz time trial) and at the stage start in Morzine.
Now some general notes. If you elect to see the Tour as we did by car and
bike, be prepared for some long days with a lot of climbing. Bear in mind
also that after the voiture balai has passed, it can still sometimes take
almost as long to descend a mountain as to get up, due to the large
number of pedestrians, cars, other cyclists etc also trying to get down.
This problem is compounded at mountain top finishes, because firstly the
field is spread over a long time (maybe 3/4hr from first to last rider)
and secondly because after the stage, all the Tour vehicles and riders
generally also come back down to the valley. For example, when we watched
on Alpe d'Huez, it was nearly 5.00pm before we got down to Bourg d'Oisans
and we then had a 40 mile ride with 1300m of climbing back over the
Lautaret to get to where we were camping in Briancon
Secondly, aim to get to the foot of any mountain you want to watch on at
least 2 hours in advance. Even then, you might find some policemen want
you to get off and walk. The attentiveness of policemen to this detail
varies widely. For example, in Bourg d'Oisans, one policemen wanted us to
walk, even though we were 2km from the foot of Alpe d'Huez; then 100m
further on a second gendarme told us more or less to stop mucking around,
if we had bikes then why weren't we riding them! Similarly, one Gendarme
in 1995 gave an absolute flat refusal to let us even start on the climb
of the Madeleine (admittedly we were quite late, and the first 8km are
very very narrow) whereas on the Colombiere, I rode up in the middle of
the caravane publicitaire. (NB this latter trick has oodles of street
cred as a) about 50 million people cheer your every pedal stroke, b) the
caravan showers you with freebies and c) you can beg chocolate from the
Poulain van and pretend you're a domestique sent back to the team car to
pick up extra food - and let's face it, being even a domestique is way
above what 99.9% of the readers of rbr can aspire too!) If you travel by
car and then hope to walk up, the roads get blocked even before they are
completely closed - for example, in 1995 we ran into a terrible traffic
jam south of Grenoble on the day of the Alpe d'Huez stage whilst we were
heading south, though fortunately we avoided it by going via Sisteron
rather than Gap, as had been the initial plan.
Thirdly, come prepared for all weathers and with plenty of food and
water. Both TT's I've been to (outskirts of Paris in 1993, and Avoriaz in
1994) took over 5 hours to pass, and even a run of the mill mountain
stage may take 2 hours from first vehicle in the publicity caravan to the
"Fin de Course" vehicle. The weather can change markedly - for example,
at Avoriaz, we started the day in hot sunshine with girls sunbathing in
bikinis, and finished in freezing rain. So make sure you have some warm
clothing, even on an apparently hot day; plenty of water and plenty of
food. Remember, once in place , you can't easily nip off to the local shop!
All of the above was written from the point of view of watching in the
mountains. I guess flat stages are easier as there are more small roads
around, and the crowds are not so concentrated at certain key points. For
Paris, it's best to travel into the centre by RER/RATP and then walk; you
may need to wait several hours if you want a place on the barriers on the
Champs Elysees, but at the Jardin des Tuileries end of the circuit, the
pressure is not so bad.
Finally, is it worth it? Yes! OK, you only get a fleeting glimpse of the
riders, but it is all the incidentals that make it fun - spinning yarns
with Thierry on the Galibier; riding up the Colombiere in the publicity
caravan; being at the exact point on l'Alpe d'Huez where Roberto Conti
made his winning attack (and hence being on Television); seeing Zulle
ride effortlessly near the top of the Colombiere, 5 minutes up on
everyone else; getting a grin from "Stevo" on l'Alpe d'Huez when a bunch
of Ockers I was with shouted "hello Aussie!" as he rode past; and many
many more in similar vein. Go! - you'll have a lot of fun!
------------------------------
Subject: 5.5 Tour de France Time Limits
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com>
Below is an explanation of the time limits that are imposed on the riders
for each stage of the Tour de France. If a rider does not finish within
the prescribed time limit, then, barring extraordinary circumstances, they
are not allowed to start the next day's stage and are eliminated from the
Tour de France(TIOOYK). There is no time limit on for the prologue. This
information comes from the 1990 edition of the racer's bible, it may
be a bit out of date, but you get the general idea.
Each stage of the Tour falls into one of six categories:
1) flat stage
2) rolling stage
3) mountain stage
4) individual time trial
5) team time trial
6) short stage
The "short stage" category is used for stages that are short on distance
by Tour standards(<80 miles) and usually flat or rolling hills.
The important thing to note is that faster the overall average speed
of the winner, the greater the percentage of the winning time.
For flat stages the scale goes from:
5% for less than a 34km/h average
6% for a 34-35km/h average
7% for a 36-37km/h average
8% for a 38-39km/h average
9% for a 40-41km/h average
10% for a 42-43km/h average
11% for a 44-45km/h average
12% for a 46km/h average or greater
For rolling stages the scale goes from:
6% for less than a 31km/h average
7% for a 31km/h average
8% for a 32km/h average
9% for a 33km/h average
10% for a 34km/h average
11% for a 35km/h average
12% for a 36km/h average
13% for a 37km/h average or greater
For mountain stages the scale goes from:
6% for less than a 26km/h average
7% for a 26km/h average
8% for a 27km/h average
9% for a 28km/h average
10% for a 29km/h average
11% for a 30km/h average
12% for a 31km/h average
13% for a 32km/h average
14% for a 33km/h average
15% for a 34km/h average
16% for a 35km/h average or greater
The individual time trial 4 has a single cut-off and that is 25% of the
winner's time.
For the team time trial the scale goes from:
13% for less than a 42km/h average
14% for a 42km/h average
15% for a 43km/h average
16% for a 44km/h average
17% for a 45km/h average
18% for a 46km/h average
19% for a 47km/h average
20% for a 48km/h average or greater
For short stages the scale goes from:
10% for less than a 34km/h average
11% for a 34-35km/h average
12% for a 36-37km/h average
13% for a 38-39km/h average
14% for a 40-41km/h average
15% for a 42-43km/h average
16% for a 44-45km/h average
17% for a 46km/h average or greater
Bruce Hildenbrand
bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com
Mike Iglesias
Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part2
[Note: The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.6 Tour de France Points Jersey Competition
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com>
The green ("points") jersey is awarded from points accumulated from
finishing places and intermediate sprints. Riders receive points for
all stage finishes based on the type of stage.
Each stage of the Tour falls into one of four categories:
1) flat stage
2) rolling stage
3) mountain stage
4) individual time trial or prologue
From the 1990 racer's bible:
Flat stages: 25 places: 35, 30, 26, 24, 22, 20, 19, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14, 13,
12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Rolling stages: 20 places: 25, 22, 20, 18, 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8,
7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Mountain stages: 15 places: 20, 17, 15, 13, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Individual Time Trial and Prologue: 10 places: 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Intermediate Sprints: 3 places: 6, 4, 2
Bruce Hildenbrand
bruce.hi...@eng.sun.com
------------------------------
Subject: 5.7 Bicycle Racing Movies
From: Michael Frank <mfr...@geedunk.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 22:12:33 -0500
THE OBVIOUS ONES
BREAKING AWAY
Local cyclist in a small town (townie's aka 'cutters), lives, eats, and
breathes cycling and everything else Italian, comes of age in a race
against college kids. Based on Dave Blaze, and his experiences at Indiana
University and the Little 500. Lots of trivia in this one, look for a
current USCF board member, a current regional USCF coach, some former
Olympians,
One story I had heard was that one of the plot inspirations for the race
scene in Breaking Away was Wayne Stetina. Wayne made the 1972 Olympic team
at the age of 18. According to the story, after riding in Montreal he
enrolled at IU, joined a frat, entered the Little 500 as part of his frat's
team, rode the entire race himself and won. Just like the Cutter's plan for
Dave Stohler in the movie.
I think the term "Cutters" referred to the principle industry of the
community, which was large (building) stone quarying, or "cutting". The
race was sponsored by a local university and there was a strong "us against
them" mind set between the University team and the non university or cutter
team. The whole movie was loosely based on fact. The race does in fact
still occur. It's still the cutters against the college crowd, and I saw
it on TV about a year ago on ESPN2. Can't for the life of me remember the
name of the university.
Does anybody if this actually happened?
I've heard basically the same story, and I do know that Wayne (and also
Dale, I believe) went to IU and was on a frat team that won the Little 500.
However, whether he did it singly-handedly I don't know.
I *can* tell you for a fact that if you were a decent cyclist and were
interested in attending IU, fraternities were willing to pay for your room,
board, and tuition. After the Stetina's domination, however, the rules of
the Little 500 were changed to limit it to only Cat 3 riders (there were no
Cat 4 or Cat 5 categories back then). A friendly rival of mine (Bill
Brissman) from Indy moved from Junior to Cat 3 (instead of Junior to Cat 2
like I did) just so he could pick up this "scholarship". He had to be
careful about when and where he raced, so that he didn't draw too much
attention and get bumped up to Cat 2 against his wishes. As soon as he
graduated, he moved up to Cat 2.
The IU alum and USCF racer who did the riding "stunts" for Dennis
Christopher (the actor who played the protagonist) is now a woman. No need
to mention his/her name.
AMERICAN FLYER
2 brothers, one, a former National caliber rider (Kevin Costner), and his
enthusiastic 'newbee' brother, take an adventure to the 'Hell of the West'
(aka Coors Classic) stage race. Lots of good 'Coors Classic' footage in
this one, even Eddy Merckx makes an appearance.
QUICKSILVER
Trials and tribulations in the tough world of bicycle messengers in New
York City. Stars Kevin Bacon, and Nelson Vails.
THE LESS OBVIOUS ONES
LITTLE MISS MARKER
A depression era bookie (Walter Matthau) gets stuck with a little girl,
left as an IOU (marker). Only about 5 minutes of 6-day racing in this one.
The track is a portable one, built by the same builder as the portable
Atlanta Olympic Velodrome.
JOEY BROWN, 6 DAY RACER
A 1940's Bike messenger wins the Big 6-day race. A hard to find BW film
from the 40's. Lots of 6-day footage, starring era comedian, Joey Brown.
THE BICYCLE THIEF
A family in Post war Italy struggle to make a living, taking their life
savings to buy the Husband/Father a bicycle for work, only to have the bike
stolen. Often shown at art festivals, or 'Study of film' classes. This
film is by one of those famous 'Fellini' -types . No racing, but lots of
old bikes, and definitely a different lifestyle, where the bike is King.
Italian with Subtitles.
EVEN LESS OBVIOUS ONES
HUGO'S MAGIC PUMP
Hugo is the winningest 6 day racer in Italy, beating everyone, incuding the
Mafia's 'Fixed' riders. To stop losing gambling monies, the Mafia decides
to wear Hugo down by throwing beautiful women at him, hoping to reduce his
endurance and stamina. This Adult movie from the late 70's was 'Competive
Cycling' magazines choice for best cycling footage in the era before
'Breaking Away'... Dubbed.
THE YELLOW JERSEY
A PBS Documentary from the Early 70's, showing the trials of the American
team at a stage race in Canada.
BREAKING AWAY, the TV Series Shawn Cassady plays the role of Dave Stoller,
bike racer, in the TV series, based on the movie of the same name. This
one is tough to find, as it only lasted one season in the early 80's.
Don't forget "Pee Wee's Big Adventure" whose opening scene is Pee Wee
Herman dreaming about winning the Tour de France.
Wasn't there a movie (french) called the Maillot Jaune? I do remember some
talk a few years past and even some speculation about a remake starring
Dustin Hoffman
Another movie filmed in New York City in the 80s was Called "Key Exchange"
with Dany Aeillo and one of the actors from "Breaking Away"
UN AFFAIRE D'HOMMES (F)
(there seems to be no dubbed version of this one - you could translate the
title to "a men's affair", maybe?)
Starring Jean-Louis Trintignant and Claude Brasseur
Story
JL-T is an architect and joins a bicycle racing group where also a
detective (C.B) is member. he uses this friendship to cover, that he
mudered his wife. Film includes several scenes of the group's weekly race
(which also plays a part in the murderers alibi), and even the final
confrontation is not done using guns, but bikes.
On a far tangent anyone ever see the Euro 'Vanished' (I think there was a
poor attempt at an American version with Jeff Bridges)? There was a
reference in the bizarre dialogue about Joop Zotemelk (sp?) and bicycle
racing. Never figured out what it had to do with the rest of this
disturbing film.
Neither do I, except maybe that the Dutch couple in the French/Dutch movie
"The Vanishing" was on bicycle vaccation in France when the wife was
abducted?
THE YELLOW JERSEY
A PBS Documentary from the Early 70's, showing the trials of the American
team at a stage race in Canada.
BREAKING AWAY, the TV Series Shawn Cassady plays the role of Dave Stoller,
bike racer, in the TV series, based on the movie of the same name. This
one is tough to find, as it only lasted one season in the early 80's.
One great movie to watch is "A Sunday In Hell 1976 Paris-Roubaix" available
from World Cycling Productions. Not one of their regular videos, but a
real movie about pro racing.
Yeah.. great flick, but if I remember correctly, isn't that the one with
the endless "PAREY RABO.. PAREY RABO..." chant in the background that goes
on forever?
Of course this one is slightly disappointing after you hear all of the
build up. Another one, Stars and Water Carriers is a better movie with much
better scenes of Eddy (The Cannibal) Merckx and how he won so much.The film
shows the strain on Eddy's face and clearly shows how much effort he put
into his racing. This is a Danish documentary with added english sound
track so it sounds a bit funny, but it takes my vote for best cycling video
to date.
John Forrest Tomlinson wrote
There was also "Key Exchange," though it might be better termed "mid-80s".
I was in it ;-)
So was Nelson "The Chettah" Vails, (a.k.a., the fastest cat in the jungle).
He races the cabbie in the opening scene.
Nope ... that scene is from Quicksilver ... Kevin Bacon is the passenger in
cab... and the star of the movie.
>From what I understand, he did a lot of his own stunts ... the boy could
ride.
My favorite scene was when KB was racing one of the other messengers, and
COASTED down one of the major S.F. hills on his fixed gear without brakes
... that and the freewheeling noises whenever he was riding his fixie.
That and when Nelson shifts *from* a 14 *to* a 28 to race the cab.
Speaking of.... Doesn't Dave Stoller drop into his little ring to motorpace
the semi at the beginning of Breaking Away?
------------------------------
Subject: 6 Social
------------------------------
Subject: 6.1 Bicycling in America
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
(or How to survive on a bicycle)
In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for
adults. It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who
are not old enough to drive cars). Adults who sense that they are
violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as
the pursuit of physical fitness. They refer to their bicycling as
training rides. Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling"
but rather "we were on a training ride". Certainly most of these
people never race although one might assume, by implication, that
their other rides are races. Some also refer to themselves as serious
cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of
pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof
that they are not engaged in child's play.
In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper
activity for all ages. That is to say, motorists do not treat
bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to
justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever
reason. In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable
function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for
the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on
"training rides".
With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads
in the presence of automobile traffic. "Get the f#%k off the road!"
and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are
equipped with bike racks. It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing
public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior.
The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not
wearing a helmet. Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting
description.
Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction
with ones life. Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least
more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch.
Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have
gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't
stand people who are having fun". So these youths attack others and
beat them bloody. In a manner that may not make sense to others, they
bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity.
There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards. You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or
falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover. There are enough
hazards without the threat of being run down by a car. However, the
whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult
bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly
endeavor.
The scenario:
In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that
guy on the bicycle? That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing
within inches of the cyclist. The passenger is truly impressed with
the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.
I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I
know what is going on.
Examples:
o The buzz and swerve routine:
A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing
traffic. Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how
far he went out of his way for the cyclist. The desired path was even
nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point. The buzz and
swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously.
o Center court, extra point:
The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly
centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires
passing within inches of a cyclist. It appears that the driver is
awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and
extra points for proximity. In the event of a collision it is, of
course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly. The precision with
which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes
the center court game conspicuous. People generally don't drive
exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle.
o Honk and slice:
The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking
a single one second blast. This is usually done at a far greater
distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best.
This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with
the cyclist. "But I warned him!"
o The trajectory intercept:
A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right
angles. The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection
but at different speeds. With skill, the driver of the car can slow
down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely
the same time as the cyclist. The bicyclist who has a stop sign may
now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only
looking out for the cyclist's safety. If the cyclist doesn't stop,
the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law.
Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist,
in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.
o The contrived hindrance:
A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the
passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or
until the following cars begin to honk. Then, regardless of
visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after
which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it
was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision.
o The rear-ender:
While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car
that notices his rapid approach. If an oncoming car approaches the
driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams
on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go. Bicycles
cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front
wheels but bicycles can't. This game is the more dangerous variation
of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as
slowly as possible everywhere else.
One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that
riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was
scary. This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a
thing or two. Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in
the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical
ability. It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson. There
is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle
behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault.
So why does all this go on and on?
It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just
frustrated drivers. They may still be getting even for some bicycle
accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any
easier. Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel
while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles. I
believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though
they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like
to see others have it any better. Many drivers believe that the only
part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road
shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too.
A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude. Some people use bike racks to transport family
bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing
onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars. Among these
people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling. They
take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while
playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they
do, and not get in the way of cars.
What to do? Don't fuel the flames. Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out. Take legal action where appropriate (and possible).
Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined
superiority to people who sit in cars. Don't balance on your bike or
ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light. Don't make
moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but
legal. If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it! That guy in
the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars
and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say
hello. Give him room.
------------------------------
Subject: 6.2 League of American Bicyclists
From: Erin O'Brien <bikel...@aol.com>
The League of American Bicyclists, (founded as the League of American
Wheelmen) has been working to improve the quality of bicycling in America
almost as long as there have been bicycles.
In the 1870s the forefathers of bicycling banded together to lobby the
government for more paved roads and to put a stop to antagonistic acts from
other road-users. United in 1880 as the League of American Bicyclists, their
mission has carried on throughout the history of bicycling.
Fashioned after "The Good Roads Movement" of the 1880's, our current agenda
is embodied by the L.A.W. Safe Roads Movement, a comprehensive program that
aims to reduce the number of injuries and deaths to cyclists. Highlights
of this 10-pointaction plan include educating bicyclists and other road
users about thei rights and responsibilities to safely share the road, and
promoting the improvement of road design and maintenance to better
accommodate bicycles.
The League's Effective Cycling program is making great strides to advance
this agenda. Taught by certified instructors, it is the only national
bicycling education program that combines the technical training needed to
safely negotiate any traffic situation, with the principles of safe,
responsible riding.
L.A.W. sponsors National Bike Month (May), which serves to promote the
various aspects of bicycling. In 1992, L.A.W. founded The International
Police Mountain Bike Association (IPMBA) to address the growing need for
information, assistance, and training to start-up bicycle-mounted police
patrols.
L.A.W. played an instrumental role in the passage of the Intermodal Surface
Transportation Equity Act of 1991 (ISTEA), federal legislation allowing
both for increased spending on bicycling improvements and for bicyclists to
participate in local transportation planning. L.A.W. also publishes the
bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin, which provides the most
comprehensive, bicycle advocacy and planning information and advice
available in the nation.
In between advocacy and education efforts, L.A.W. manages to find time to
enjoy bicycling. L.A.W.'s national and regional rallies bring together
members from all over the U.S.A. and Canada for great riding and
entertainment, daily workshops include, advocacy, safety, club leadership,
cycling techniques, and more.
Pedal for Power, another division of L.A.W., hosts Across America and
North-Southa rides that raise money for bicycling and various charities of
the rider's choice.
Eight issues per year of Bicycle USA magazine to keep members up to date on
League activities. Regular features include effective cycling tips,
Government Relations and Education columns, cycle news, and an event
calendar. Special issues include an annual Almanac and Tourfinder. L.A.W.
offers national touring services to members including Ride Information
Contacts in every state. While touring, members can also stay in the homes
of more than 600 fellow members, free of charge, through the Hospitality
Homes network.
League members can fly their bikes for free on TWA, America West, USAir,
Continental, and Northwest airlines when they make their travel
arrangements through the Sports National Reservation Center.
L.A.W. is a 501c-3 non-profit organization with membership of more than
24,000 bicyclists and 500 affiliated clubs and coalitions nationwide.
Individual membership costs $25/year or $30 for families. Advocacy
membership, which includes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin costs
an additional $10/year.
To join the League of American Bicyclists send your membership contribution
to 190 W. Ostend St., Suite 120, Baltimore, MD 21230-3755, or call (410)
539-3399. For membership by phone call 1-800-288-BIKE. For a membership
form to pay by credit card see the "How to Join League" file.
------------------------------
Subject: 6.3 Rules for trail riding
From: Roland L. Behunin <beh...@oodis01.hill.af.mil>
The Salt Lake Ranger District of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest has
some guidelines for trail riding in their district. Here they are:
1. Yield the right of way to other non-motorized recreationists.
People judge all cyclists by your actions. Move off the trail to
allow horse to pass and stop to allow hikers adequate room to share
the trail.
2. Slow down and use caution when approaching another and make your
presence known well in advance. Simply yelling bicycle is not
acceptable.
3. Maintain control of your speed at all times and approach turns
anticipation of someone around the bend. Be able to stop safely within
the distance you can see down the trail.
4. Stay on designated trails to avoid trampling native vegetation, and
minimize potential erosion by not using wet or muddy trails or
shortcutting switchbacks. Avoid wheel lockup. If a trail is steep
enough to require locking wheels and skidding, dismount and walk your
bike. Locking brakes contributes to needless trail damage. Do not
ride cross-country. Water bars are placed across to direct water off
the trail and prevent erosion. Ride directly over the top, or
dismount and walk your bike.
5. Do not disturb wildlife or livestock.
6. Do not litter. Pack out what you pack in and carry out more than
your share whenever possible.
7. Respect public and private property, including trail use signs, no
trespassing signs, and leave gates as you found them. If your route
crosses private property, it is your responsibility to obtain
permission from the landowner. Bicycles are excluded from designated
Wilderness Areas.
8. Always be self sufficient. Your destination and travel speed will
be determined by your ability, your equipment, the terrain, and the
present and potential weather conditions.
9. Do not travel solo in remote areas. Leave word of your destination
and when you plan to return.
10. Observe the practice of minimum impact bicycling. "Take only
pictures and leave only waffle prints."
11. Always wear a helmet.
12. If you abuse it-you lose it!. Since mountain bikers are
newcomers to the forests, they must prove to be responsible trail
users.
From personal experience, you may also want to add the following
information:
13. In National Parks and National Monuments bicycles are considered
vehicles and restricted to roads.
14. On BLM land - ride only on roadways, trails, and slickrock. The
desert crust (microbiotic crust) is fragile and takes up to 50 years
to recover from footprints, waffle tracks, etc.
15. When camping out of improved campsites camp at least 500 feet
off the road or trail. Try to leave no trace of your campsite.
16. Toilets in unimproved areas - move off trail, and dig a 1 foot
deep pit, cover after use.
------------------------------
Subject: 6.4 Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike?
From: ro...@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)
Not everyone can commute to work on a bicycle. Some people can't cycle to
work in a reasonable time because of their fitness or because they live
too far away. Other people need their cars for their jobs, or take
children to school. Some employers frown on bicycle commuting, and don't
provide any facilities. All these obstacles can be surmounted.
If you want to commute by bike, you will find a way to do it.
A few facilities at your workplace can make commuting easier.
Minimally there should be racks in a well trafficked area. Some business
will let you park them in your cube, and others might provide a closet or
unused room to store them. My company provides enclosed lockers. If
theft is a significant danger, consider buying a second, inexpensive bike
to be used only for commuting.
If your commute is short, and the dress code where you work is relaxed,
you won't need to change or clean up after getting to work. The rest of
us need to prepare for work.
Every workplace has a bathroom where a sponge bath and change is
possible. If you're lucky (like me) there's showers and lockers. If your
ride makes you sweat a lot, and there is no way to take a shower at work,
look around for a nearby gym. Sometimes you can arrange to change and
shower there, then walk or ride slowly to work. If you want to get a
workout, but there's nowhere to clean up at work, try getting your workout
on the way home, making little or no effort on the way to work.
If your ride is too long for a round trip, and there's no place to park,
put your bike in your car and drive to work on Monday. Monday night, ride
home. Tuesday morning ride to work and put your bike in the car. If
you're tired Tuesday night, drive home. If there is a vanpool to work,
get the vanpool driver to mount racks. Then you can take the vanpool in
the morning and ride home in the afternoon.
Some people reduce the length of their commute by driving to a "park and
ride" area, then riding in from there. Another way to solve a long
commute is to find out about bicycle accommodation on buses or other
public transportation. Many people use a combination of bikes and buses,
subways, or trains to make a long commute possible.
Racks, bags and panniers: Some people drive in clothes once a week and buy
lunch at work so they don't need to carry much on their bikes. Others
need something to carry paperwork, lunch and clothes. A lot of commuters
use knapsacks rather than putting racks on a bike, but this raises their
center of gravity and increases wind resistance. Racks can be put on any
bike, and they come in handy for running errands, touring and unsupported
rides. If you're looking for a commuting bike, get one with rack eyelets
on the frame for convenience. Another alternative are touring saddle
bags, which are hard to find but are very handy on bikes without racks.
Get your bike in shape. Replace tires which have cracked sidewalls, or
worn casing. Carry a flat kit, a spare tube and enough tools to fix a
flat. If you're not mechanically inclined, have a bike shop tune up your
bike. Check every part of the drivetrain for lubrication and wear. Make
sure your wheels are true, and that the hubs are lubricated and adjusted
properly.
Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]
drob...@mendel.une.edu.au
il...@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
bur...@bcu.ubc.ca
jlb...@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jo...@greg.cs.usu.edu
ban...@netcom.com
cu...@cynic.portal.ca
do...@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae...@yfn.ysu.edu
cs46...@coral.cs.unm.edu
t...@dfw.net
tim...@netcom.com
------------------------------
Subject: 6.5 Commuting - How do I choose a route?
From: ro...@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)
According to the U.S. Uniform Vehicle Code, drivers of bicycles have the
same rights, and the same responsibilities, as drivers of other vehicles.
This means that commuters may use any road, street or highway they want,
and that they must obey traffic laws. Some states vary from the UVC, and
of course, some countries treat bicycles diffently than the US does.
John Forester, in his book Effective Cycling, suggests that all cyclists
use the following traffic principles:
"1. Ride on the right-hand side of the road, not on the left and
never on the sidewalk.
[Note: this is specific to those countries which drive on the right hand
side of the road, like the US. In countries like the UK, you should ride
on the left side of the road.]
2. When approaching a road that is larger than the one you are on, or
has more or faster traffic, you must yield to traffic on that road.
Yielding means looking and waiting until you see that no traffic is
coming.
3. When preparing to move laterally on a roadway, you must yield to
traffic in that line of travel. Yielding means looking forward and
backward to see that no traffic is in that line of travel.
4. When approaching an intersection, you must choose your position
according to your destination. Right-turning drivers are at the curb, left
turning drivers are at the center, while straight-through drivers are
between them.
5. Between intersections, you choose your position according to your
speed relative to other traffic. Parked ones are at the curb, medium-speed
drivers are next to them, while fastest drivers are near the center of the
road."
Transportational cyclists want to maximize safety and minimize time.
Usually the most direct route between the cyclist and work will be the
best choice, but other factors may come into play.
Facilities: Multi-use paths (trails shared with bicycles, pedestrians,
skaters and sometimes horses) are less safe than the road, according to a
recent study published in the Institute for Transportation Engineers
journal; this kind of facility is more likely to send cyclists to the
hospital than comparable streets. Pedestrians, pets and skaters are
unpredictable and require more skill to pass safely. Sidepath
intersections are very dangerous because motorists don't expect vehicular
cross traffic.
Roads with wide curb lanes are safer than narrow roads, but narrow roads
may be ridden safely by using an entire lane. Bike lanes may be as safe
as the same width roads without lanes as long as the rider is competent to
avoid their dangers (e.g., they direct cyclists into right turn lanes,
when the cyclist should normally ride to the left of the right turn
lane). In California, cyclists traveling at less than the speed of
traffic must remain in the bike lane unless preparing for a left turn or
avoiding a hazard, like parked cars, a slower cyclist, rough pavement or
debris.
Traffic: even though arterials usually faster and more convenient than
side streets, riding on side streets may be more enjoyable due to lower
traffic noise and better scenery. Some cyclists are willing to ride the
Huntington Beach multi-use path during the summer even though the fastest
safe speed is 5mph. The view is very nice.
The compromise among pleasure, safety and time is yours.
Once you set your priorities, scout a few routes. Get the best street map
you can find and highlight streets that you like. US Geological Survey
maps (1:24000 scale) also show the hills, which is handy. They're
beautiful maps, too. They look nice on a wall.
Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]
drob...@mendel.une.edu.au
il...@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
bur...@bcu.ubc.ca
jlb...@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jo...@greg.cs.usu.edu
ban...@netcom.com
cu...@cynic.portal.ca
do...@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae...@yfn.ysu.edu
cs46...@coral.cs.unm.edu
t...@dfw.net
tim...@netcom.com
------------------------------
Subject: 6.6 Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy?
From: ro...@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)
Before I started cycling I had no idea why cyclists wore such silly
looking clothes. Now I know why, but I still think we look silly. The
value of using cycling clothes on a commute depends on the length of the
commute. It is hardly worth it to ride 1 mile to work in cycling clothes
and then change to regular clothes at work, but 20 miles is a different
story.
How to dress for the road, from the ground up:
1. Shoes: if you have a short commute with little climbing, virtually any
kind of shoes and socks will do. I have seen commuters wearing cowboy
boots moving at around 15 mph. If you expect to exert yourself for any
length of time, some trade-offs should be considered. Socks made of
cotton will retain moisture, while polyester type socks (e.g., Coolmax)
will wick moisture and encourage it to evaporate. Cycling shoes are
stiffer than casual or dress shoes, so transmitting energy to the pedal is
more efficient. On the other hand, they are not comfortable to wear off
the bike, so a change of shoes is necessary at work. For most of us, this
is not a problem because shoes take up little space and can be left at the
office. There are a range of options in cycling shoes, depending on your
pedal choice.
A note about pedals:
- Flat pedals allow easy on-off and may be used with any shoes. If you
hit a bump your feet may leave the pedals, which can result in loss of
balance and a crash.
- Toe clips and straps keep your feet on the pedals. They are designed to
be used with cycling shoes, either touring shoes, which have a sole
designed to hook onto a pedal, or racing shoes, which have cleats that
lock the cyclist to the pedal and improve efficiency. Many people
consider clips and straps to be obsolete, but they are a low cost way to
improve your efficiency. They will work adequately with street shoes and
hiking boots, which some people consider an advantage.
- Clipless pedals attach your shoes to the pedals similar to the way skis
attach to boots. With practice you can step in and out of them as easily
as flat pedals, but they are more efficient than toe clips. These pedals
require shoes that are compatible, and are much more expensive than toe
clips. I use the SPD style of clipless pedals, which has a recessed cleat
allowing you to walk around off the bike. I wouldn't recommend extensive
walking in these shoes, but they are perfect for what I need.
- Some pedals are flat on one side and clipless on the other, which allows
the rider to choose to wear cleated shoes for performance or regular shoes
for utility trips.
- An adapter is available for some clipless pedals that will turn them
into flat pedals with toe-clips.
2. Shorts: Casual cyclists ride at low speeds, at low RPMs, for short
distances so no special shorts are necessary. If you ride for any
distance you will need to develop a high RPM (80 - 110) for efficiency.
When your legs are moving that fast, baggy clothes will chafe, as will the
the seams in ordinary underwear, so you'll need something clingy like
lycra. And if you exert yourself, you will need to have some kind of
liner in these shorts to wick moisture from your privates. Bicycle shorts
are meant to be worn with no underwear; they are usually made out of lycra
and are lined with wicking pads. A good pair of bike shorts makes long
rides a pleasure; in fact, I never get on my bike without them.
3. Jerseys and shirts: Cotton retains moisture, so if you sweat, cotton
will keep it next to your skin, making you feel sticky and soggy. Yecch.
Polyester fabrics are designed to wick moisture away from you and allow it
to evaporate quickly. Bicycle jerseys are made out of polyester, and are
cut longer in the back because cyclists usually ride leaning forward to
reduce air resistance. Also, jerseys normally have two or three pockets
in the back, handy for carrying a handkerchief, banana, etc. When I take
my kids on rides I'll wear a tee shirt because I'm not going to sweat
much, but I always wear a jersey on my commute. Some people like cotton
and other natural fibers because they don't retain odors as much as the
polyester fabrics. In cool weather, wool is ideal.
4. Gloves: gloves will make your commute much more comfortable, and will
offer some protection in a crash. Long fingered gloves really help you
stay warm when it's chilly.
5. Eyewear: If you are commuting at dawn or dusk, you should consider
wearing clear glasses to protect your eyes from debris kicked up by cars
and wind. In daylight, sunglasses are a necessity to protect against UV
as well as road hazards.
6. Helmet: A helmet offers some protection in a crash, but the best way to
survive a crash is to learn to avoid falling in the first place. I wear
one, but I don't think it's some kind of magic talisman.
7. Other equipment: If there are unpredictable rains in your area, carry
rain gear. The articles on riding in the winter are availble through ftp
from:
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips.pam
If you might work late, carry a light. Articles on lights are available
through ftp from:
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/arnie.light
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights
ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights2
Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]
drob...@mendel.une.edu.au
il...@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
bur...@bcu.ubc.ca
jlb...@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jo...@greg.cs.usu.edu
ban...@netcom.com
cu...@cynic.portal.ca
do...@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae...@yfn.ysu.edu
cs46...@coral.cs.unm.edu
t...@dfw.net
tim...@netcom.com
------------------------------
Subject: 6.7 Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists?
From: ro...@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers)
The sources for this information vary in credibility, but most of it comes
directly from published studies or other reputable sources like the
Berkeley Wellness letter.
1. Exercise will extend your life by about the amount of time you spend
doing it. So if you spend an hour on your bike, you've added an hour to
your life.
2. Drivers of cars are exposed to up to eighteen times more pollution
than "ambient air", approximately 300 feet from the road. Cyclists share
the road with cars, but they do not trap pollutants, and they take air in
at a much higher position than cars (assuming a diamond frame) so...
3. Cyclists breathe approximately 1/2 as much pollution than cars (this
appears to be _per breath_).
4. Over _time_, a cyclist will breathe much more than a sedentary driver,
since the cyclist is using more than twice as much air. Athletes appear
to be very sensitive to foul air.
5. In general, cycling takes longer than driving, so the bike commuter
may be exposed to pollution for longer periods of time.
6. A UK study found that cyclists had 1/2 the blood level of CO that
drivers did after traveling along a ten mile stretch of congested road.
7. CO blood levels may be less of a problem than inhaled particulates,
which are much harder to measure. Masks make breathing difficult if they
are properly sealed, and are ineffective if they are not sealed.
As a result, the health advantages of commuting by bike depend on several
key factors:
1. Would you exercise anyway? That is, would you drive to the gym and
ride a stationary bike in relatively clean air if you weren't commuting in
traffic.
2. How hard do you ride? The harder you ride, the more air -- and
therefore pollution -- you take in. But then the better the training
effect will be, so if you don't do any other exercise, this is a wash.
3. How long is your drive compared to your ride? If it takes
significantly more time to ride, you may be exposed to more pollution.
4. What kind of car? An open air Jeep would take in and trap less
pollution than a sedan.
The health effects of exercise far outweigh any additional health dangers
from pollution. If you would exercise anyway, though, commuting may not
in your best interest. If you commute on low volume side streets, or on
sidepaths, pollution might not get you, but other hazards might.
Here is a rationalization for those of us who want to believe that
cyclists get less pollution than motorists:
One thing I've noticed about my commute: when I drive, I am _always_
surrounded by traffic. All us cars meet at the light and move from light
to light more or less together. When I ride my bike, I meet cars at
lights, but I don't spend a lot of time around them when they're rushing
past me to get to the next light. The vast majority of time is spent
between packs of cars, without much motor traffic. Since I'm not around
cars very much I can believe:
- I am breathing more garbage than a motorist when I'm in traffic
- I am breathing less garbage than a motorist when I'm not in traffic
- I am not in traffic far more often
Therefore: I am probably getting less pollution on the bike than in my car!
Contributors:
[I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group
without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to
me]
drob...@mendel.une.edu.au
il...@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU
bur...@bcu.ubc.ca
jlb...@presto.eecs.umich.edu
jo...@greg.cs.usu.edu
ban...@netcom.com
cu...@cynic.portal.ca
do...@netcom.com
"td"
"Robert"
ae...@yfn.ysu.edu
cs46...@coral.cs.unm.edu
t...@dfw.net
tim...@netcom.com
------------------------------
Subject: 7 Marketplace
------------------------------
Subject: 7.1 Marketplace hints/guidelines
From: Jim Siler <k...@panix.com>
: Are people really willing to pay 10% less for a "nearly new" MTB when
: they
: a) often have no assurance that it really hasn't been used
: (except of course someone's word)
: b) may have to buy, unseen.
: c) may not get a transferable waranty on the MTB
I think that in general, many people are acutely aware of what they
spent for a thing and are woefully unaware of how much value that thing
lost when they walked out of the store. Let's assume for a moment
that I buy an XTR rear derailleur in my local shop (good practice,
worth some added cost) for $100. I use it for a week, and trash my
frame and want to part it out. Hmmm... this was $100 new and its only
a week old, virtually new. Let's ask $90 o.b.o. and see what happens.
Now I change roles and become the buyer.
I go to my local bike shop, where I trust the owner and am willing
to pay a premium, but no XTR rear derailleur. Next stop mail order.
Everyone but everyone has it for $80, plus shipping, but less tax.
They will take a credit card. The unit is warrantied, in the box,
with instructions (the value of which should not be underesimated).
Given this I am unlikeley to even consider the used part. But let's
suppose I offer $75, and send off my money order, sight unseen.
What can happen?
1 -- It never arrives. After a number of hassles and excuses I
realize that there is a major problem. Email stops being
returned. I contact his sysadm, who can't do much. I
publicly flame him, starting one more interminable flame
war. Eventually I either get my $75 bucks back or not.
Even if I get the derailleur (remeber, the original
object was the derailleur) I have bought myself
hundreds of dollars worth of aggravation.
2 -- It arrives and looks like hell. C'est la vie.
3 -- I arrives and one week later it is obvious that something
is seriously wrong. No amount of adjustment will cause
it to shift reliably for any length of time. See 2, above.
4 -- While waiting for arrival i trash MY frame. Derailleur
arrives. Sadly, I have nothing to hang it on. See 2,
above.
Let's run through the same scenarios having purchased through mail
order, using a credit card.
1 -- I don't pay. If they get pissy about it I do too. As most
mail order houses have, at best, a fragile relationship
with Mastecard/Visa (it is VERY difficult to open a merchant
account to accept credit cards over the phone for mail order,
so difficult that many use their in store accounts, faking
signatures) and are dependent on that relationship to stay
in business, they tend to become most reasonable when you
make real noise with the credit card company.
2 -- Unlikely, as goods should be new. See 1, above.
3 -- Warranty problem. If you have a good local dealer, you
would have been better off there. If you have a so-so
dealer you may well be better off through mail order.
Worse comes to worst, see 1, above.
4 -- Worst case, you eat a restocking fee.
In general, I would be hesitant to buy anything here for much more
than 60% of its mail order price, unless the product is exactly
what I want and all else is right.
I have bought two things this year through this group, a GT Zaskar LE
frame, new in the box with slight cosmetic ding for $350 (negotiated
from $375) and a Flashlite 2 tent with a tiny hole, professionally
repaired, for $100. Both carried resonable prices in the original
post, offered to pay the shipping, and clearly spelled out the
possible problems with the product for sale. Both sales were
satisfactory to all involved, and I am delighted with both.
I have seen many other Items for sale that I have wanted and bought
elsewhere because the posted prices were so ridiculous that I
had no basis for negotiation. Typically, these are reposted with
sad wonderings as to why no one has responded. C'est la vie.
In general, I think that anyone wanting to move something quickly
through posting should do the following:
Be realistic with price. Look at the true market value of
your goods. It is not what you paid. You are going to take
a loss. If your fork, which was the hottest thing in July
of this year, cost you $600 in a store is not any better
than the new $375 fork that is available in December, its
market value is certainly no more than $375, if it is new.
Unless limited availability takes it out of the commodity
realm (e.g., my Zaskar frame with blemish had only limited
availibility) knock off 40% of the realistic market value.
Our fork is now down to $225. If this makes you too
queasy, up it a bit and throw in shipping, say $275 with
U.P.S. ground shipping, hmmm... not too bad.
Clearly state everything of importance to the buyer, good
and bad. This will avoid later hassles, and greatly increase
your trust factor.
Don't initially offer at an inflated price, thinking to
negotiate down (remember back to Onza Clipless Pedals for
sale flame war). It just makes it clear to an intellegent
buyer that you are hoping to find a sucker, and will take
whatever advantage you can. This may not be true, but it
will be clear, nonetheless. Trust factor goes down the
toilet.
Make phone contact as soon as possible. A human voice is
often more comforting than an email address.
To anyoune who has read this far, thanks for putting up with my
rambling and opining.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.2 Bike Trailers
[Ed note: The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so
if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".]
------------------------------
Subject: 7.3 One Less Car T-Shirts
From: Alayne McGregor <ala...@gandalf.UUCP>
(Ed Ravin panix!era...@cmcl2.nyu.edu)
The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York
City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo
on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back. Call TA for colors and
sizes currently in stock. They're US$15 each. No refunds or
exchanges. Allow 6 weeks for delivery. For people who have to
drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the
Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5.
Send orders to:
Transportation Alternatives
92 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
USA
attn: One Less Car
I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots
of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing
our shirts.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.4 Panniers and Racks
From: Sharon Pedersen <pede...@cartan.berkeley.edu>
This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider
racks, loading and generators. --Sharon pede...@cartan.berkeley.edu
--PANNIERS--
Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart. Commuting to
school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making
sturdiness as important here as for touring.
Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well.
Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use
of space. You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets.
One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty.
Fastening--lots of options: bungees and hooks, or fixed placement
hooks, or straps with buckles or cams. Bungees and hooks have been
just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will
want more security. However, don't get a system with so many
attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off.
Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with
telegraphic comments made in 1988. Check local stores since features
may have changed since then.
Eclipse--(no comment); Kirtland--tourers like them;
MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in
Santa Rosa, CA, (707) 545-4624;
Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than
average cost" yeah! (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials);
Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment; Rhode Gear--expensive;
Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment.
--LOW-RIDER RACKS--
Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager. The
Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with
clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them
apart to take the front wheel off.
--REAR RACKS--
(No comment in the original article; Blackburns seem to be the
standard and durable enough.)
--LOADING--
Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft.
Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket. Rider, bike
and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel;
remainder on front. Bike with front low-riders is quite stable.
--GENERATORS--
The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers.
Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and
it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards." Or go with a
generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of
putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.5 Clothing materials
From: Jim Carson <car...@mu.rice.edu>
[Ed note: From a summary Jim posted]
Polarlite
Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla. Comfortable.
Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind.
Doesn't wick moisture out very well. Breathes very well.
Supplex (nylon)
Comfortable. It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof).
Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched
Merino (wool)
From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing
a heavy fleece of exceptional quality." I guess you could treat this as
normal 100% wool.
Thermax
An improvement on Polypro. The big advantage is heat resistance so
you can put it in the dryer. Balance that against the extra cost.
CoolMax
This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking
material it is advertised as.
Dacron
Trademark name for Dupont polyester. Woven fabric made from dacron is
similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy. Many of the
better clothing insulations are made from dacron. They are usually refered
to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard,
and dacron-88.
Lycra
Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing.
GoreTex
A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes. Gortex's claim to
fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but
not liquid water (rain). It blocks wind fairly well too. The
membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of
other material. It does not breathe enough. There are less expensive
alternatives.
Polypropylene
Does not wick very well. Can be uncomfortable. Troublesome to
care for (e.g. can pill badly) Will keep you fairly warm if soaked.
Not very wind resistant. Melts in the dryer.
Capilene
Wicks moisture away. Very comfortable. Comes in different weights
for more/less warmth. [lots of favorable things about it... only
really unfavorable thing is the co$t]
60/40 cloth -
This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in
the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came
along, and is considerably less expensive. Good wind resistance,
fairly breathable. Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray
it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.6 Seats
Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons. There are several
types of seats:
Leather
Seats like the Brooks models. Usually used by hard-core riders. Requires
breaking in before it's really comfortable.
Padded
The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic". Has padding
where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest.
Gel
Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them
for additional padding. Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift,
making the seat uncomfortable.
There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder,
etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable.
If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers)
you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on
seat adjustment). Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in
the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's). Most pain
can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat,
and riding so your body becomes used to it.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.7 Women's Saddles
From: Pamela Blalock <pam...@pcdocs.com>
Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find
a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I end up talking
with other women about saddles. This article comes from those
discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle preferences. This
is a dynamic article and changes on occasion, so if you have comments
please contact me (pam...@pcdocs.com) and I will incorporate your
comments.
While this is intended to be an article on women's saddles, since so
many other things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will
also address some of these issues as well.
Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each
other. Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all
poured, what works for one woman may not work for another.
First, be sure that your bike fits properly. Many women end up with
overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of
with a bike that fits properly. No saddle will be comfortable if the
bike is too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find
someone who knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get
the bike set up properly before making other changes. In addition to
being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also handle
better than one that is improperly sized. It isn't always easy to find
someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that will,
give them lots of business and send your friends there! Go to shops
during non-prime hours for the best service. You won't get a salesman
to spend an hour letting you try different saddles on a Saturday
afternoon, but you might on a Tuesday morning.
[ See Section 7.8 for more information on bikes for women ]
Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than
a man's. (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!) Every
woman is different, and there are many women out there with narrower
hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb.
Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will be able to
feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike
saddle. Avocet used to run a great ad showing a hip bone sitting on a
saddle. (look in old copies of bike magazines). With a saddle that's
too narrow, a woman may find herself effectively straddling it with
her hip bones, or slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which
may eventually cause the legs or feet to go numb. A saddle that's too
wide will also cause problems.
A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that
comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones.
BTW, I'm not talking about those foot wide saddles you see on exercise
bikes at the gym. These are too wide for anyone.
I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel
indicating exactly where my bones are. Actually, looking at and
feeling your old saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do
not need support! It's important to try out several different saddles
to find one that fits. Terry does produce a couple of different width
models but they are still somewhat limited. Widths do vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer - so for example, if the Terry is too
wide or too narrow, try the Vetta or Avocet or some other brand. Ask
your local dealer to let you put your bike on a trainer in the shop
and try sitting on and riding a few of his saddles. Saddles are fairly
easy to change and a good shop should be willing to let you try this.
(But not on a busy Saturday afternoon!) Some shops now have a device
that makes this easier. It is a stationary bike with merry-go-round of
saddles. You can sit on the saddle, pedaling, and then dismount and
swing the next saddle to be tried in place. It isn't as good as trying
a saddle on your bike, but will tell you a lot more than holding a
saddle and poking it, which it seems it how most saddles are
purchased!
There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are
padded with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of
these with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while
(regardless of sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me
it's every 10,000 miles). Brooks also has several different models of
women's leather saddles, which some women swear by. I swar at them,
but that's me! (And there are women who swear at the saddles I swear
by!) And rather than needing to be replaced after 10,000 miles, the
Brooks is probably just getting broken in well at that point!
Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of
their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft
tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method. One
rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely adjustable
angles, like the American Classic or Control Tech, will help one to
find the perfect angle. With the ratchet type adjustment of most, she
was never able to get the angle quite right. One problem with having
the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may end up with two much
weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is numb hands and
pain in the lower back.
In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a
cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where
the labia would normally rest. This would place the weight on the sit
bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it
does not. A couple of women used this idea and modified saddle pads in
this way. I watched a Spenco pad slowly get modified in this way each
day throughout PAC Tour last year. One survey respondent cut up a
neoprene pad and put it under the covering of her Flite saddle.
There are a couple of women's saddles which specifically address this
issue, the Terry Sport and the (formerly) Miyata Pavea (see the end of
the article for more info on acquiring this saddle). Both are shorter
and wider than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole to
suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level.
The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an
open-cell low-density foam. I should also point out that with the
Terry, the hole is in the nose, while the Miyata saddle has the hole
in the middle, further back.
While like many women, I tend to bend more at the waist, I also roll
my hips forward on a saddle to get in a more comfortable (and aero
cycling position). This means that on a standard saddle I am pressing
directly on tender tissue. Since I've switched to a saddle with a hole
in it, I can without any saddle related discomfort roll my hips
forward, and strech out on the aero bars for hours!
I heard from Carol Grossman, an Australian rider praising another
saddle. She wrote , "I have a Selle Bassano modular seat, which may or
may not be available in the US ( I live in Australia now). It has two
halves, with the split running nose-to-tail and a gap between them.
It joins together at the nose. The width of the seat, and therefore
of the gap as well, is adjustable so you can set it to match the width
of your seatbones. It has titanium rails, which give it a little bit
of spring. I must say, though, that it is quite firm and if I have
not been riding much and go for a long ride I do get sore seatbones.
But I can live with sore seatbones! Interestingly, the packaging
material said nothing about it being for women -- it was marketted as
a seat for men who suffered numbness."
My concern with this saddle is that as you make it wider in the back
to accommodate sit bones, you are also making the middle wider as
well. I have not personally triedon e of these yet.
T-Gear makes a leather saddle with a diamond shape cut in the middle.
The saddle is quite narrow and firm, and didn't fit me, but I've heard
some men rave about it. John, my SO found it too narrow in the back,
and too wide in the middle. Like the Selle Modular seat it is marketed
to men with numbness problems. (Mine is for sale!)
Another saddle I have tried very briefly is an Easy Seat. This is
actually two separate pieces, which rock independently. The only
points of contact are the hip bones - although the backs of my legs
rub the saddle. The two pieces can be adjusted for width and angle. I
know of a couple of women who used these saddles to salvage Race
Across America attempts, when saddle sores otherwise would have taken
them out of the race. I mounted this saddle on the bike on my indoor
trainer, but we had a wickedly mild winter, so I didn't use it this
year.
I have used both the Terry and the Miyata a lot. (These were the two
most popular saddles in the survey.) I've received lots of positive
comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these
saddles. The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride
later in the evening :) when their partners weren't complaining about
saddle tenderness!
In 1992 I did BMB, a 750 mile ride in less than 4 days on the back of
a tandem. That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry
for over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles.
But 400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the
hole. Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became
unbearable. Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there
was still something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find
the Miyata saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's
products, and I was almost shocked when he showed up 20 miles later
with this wonderful saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the
Miyata. The difference was immediately noticeable. In addition to the
missing foam, the hole was further back (more where I needed the
relief). I probably would have finished the ride without it, but I
wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The Miyata is a little
harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but that's not where I was
experiencing pain, and as Carol said above, it was worth the
sacrifice. Of course the saddle is different looking and draws lots
of comments and sexual innuendoes, but it saved my ride. Over three
years and 45,000 miles later, including 2 x-country rides and another
BMB, I still love my Miyata and won't ride anything else.
Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's
saddles too wide. Several women responded to the survey saying they
prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip
bones. For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat
on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems. Others who
liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the
middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Someday, maybe
we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the
demand though.
Terry does makes a men's version of their Sport saddle. It is narrower
and has a longer nose and hole than the women's model. It also doesn't
say Terry on it anywhere. Instead it is marketed under the initials
TFI. Both this saddle and new models of the Sport have a (politically
correct) simulated leather covering. I know of several men who really
like this saddle, especially when using aero-bars. Women who find the
Terry Sport too wide may want to check this one out.
I've seen Terry saddles change a bit over the past couple of years.
One change is from a lycra cover to a simulated leather cover. Some
women didn't like the feel of the lycra. (I do.) Another women
noticed after replacing a stolen one with a new one that the foam in
the hole seems to be getting firmer, kind of negating the benefit of
the hole. Terry does offer a 30 day money back guarantee on their
products, so you can *painlessly* decide if you'd like a Terry saddle
or not.
They have also produced a couple of racing saddles. The first was the
same width in the back as their Sport model, but narrower through the
middle and had titanium rails. I was one of the lucky few to get one
of these. They replaced it with a Flite lookalike with holes drilled
in the nose. I tried one of these and must say for me it was the most
uncomfortable thing I ever came into contact with. But if you prefer a
narrow saddle like a Flite, you'll probably like this one.
Speaking of which, many women do LIKE Flite and other really narrow
saddles. I know that at their cycling camps, Betsy King and Anna
Schwartz get many women on them. They stress the flexibility of the
saddle with it's titanium rails and thin shell. They are very good for
mountain biking where you want to slide off the back of the saddle for
balance where a wide saddle would get in the way. I even know of a few
women who use them for distance cycling. Two women used them on the
x-country ride I did in 93, but they had very narrow set hip bones.
The other 15 women had women's models of one type or another,
including Terry, Brooks and of course I had my beloved Miyata.
And I would be completely negligent if I didn't mention that one
respondent said that recumbents almost always solve the uncomfortable
saddle problem. (Thanks to David Wittenberg for pointing this out.
His wife won't ride anything else.)
Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort included trying
different shorts. There are a lot of different shorts out there - far
more than saddles and just like saddles, they all fit differently. The
common theme from most women was to stay away from shorts with seams
in the center. This includes seams in the lycra as well as the chamois
(good luck!). On multiday rides, you may want to use different brands
of shorts, since having the seam in the same place day after day may
also cause irritation. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause also
discomfort.
Pearl Izumi and Urbanek make very nice women's shorts. And of course
Terry produces women's shorts. Some have fuller hips, longer legs,
wider elastic leg grippers, etc. I really prefer bib or one piece
suits, since there is no binding elastic at the waist. These are less
convenient for quick bathroom stops, but I prefer the added comfort.
Some women like longer legs, some shorter. Some prefer thick chamois,
some fake, some real. Try on as many different types as you can, until
you find one that fits you the best. Women are even more varied on
their opinions about shorts than on saddles, so just keep trying new
ones until you find the perfect pair for you.
(And while on the subject of saddle comfort, I use a combination of
Desitin (or some other diaper rash ointment) and powder sprinkled
liberally in my shorts to keep myself dry and rash-free.)
I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle
is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or
your friend, or this author uses a particular type of saddle doesn't
mean that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into
riding something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your
saddle because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable
for you.
Among the saddles recommended by respondents were
Terry Women's (most popular of the survey)
Miyata Pavea (my favorite and a close second in the survey)
TFI (men's version of the Terry Sport)
women's Selle Italia Turbo
Avocet O2 (said to be as comfy as the above Turbo, but lighter)
WaveFlo Avocet Women's Racing saddle
Viscount saddle
San Marco Regal
Brooks B-17 and Brooks Pro
Flite
Terry Racing (like a Flite with holes drilled in the plastic)
Selle Bassano modular seat
(Of course some women swear at saddles that others swear by! Did I
mention that we are all DIFFERENT?)
Since Miyata no longer imports into the US, another source has been
found for the saddle with the hole in the middle. Tandems East is now
carrying this saddle (with their name imprinted on the back.) You can
contact Mel Kornbluh at Tandems East at (609) 451-5104 or (609)
453-8626 FAX.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.8 Women's Bikes
This subject has been compiled from different sources.
Part 1 is Lynn Karamanos' discussion from her questions about
purchasing a Terry bike.
Part 2 is the information from Pamela Blalock about the differences in
fitting women's bikes and suggestions for what to look for.
Part 3 was added by Marcy Stutzman and is a listing of different types
of bikes that are either scaled down with smaller wheels or
specifically designed for women.
Part 1
Lynn Karamanos <kara...@esd.dl.nec.com>
Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to purchase a
Terry bike.
1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike that
fits you, not just sell you what they have in stock.
2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you. You may be able
to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once you've made some
adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.).
3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's worth the
extra money.
4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's ridden a
Terry has loved it. Even those two people said they knew others who loved
Terry bikes. Bottom line: the fit depends on your build. Women with long
legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like them, not necessarily just
short women.
5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that are
specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well. The names
mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus). Also, someone
mentioned that the same production line in Japan that makes Terry
"proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels. (Also one mountain
bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two hybred bikes, Univega Via
Activa and Giant Inova.)
6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front
wheel... replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be more
difficult to find and/or more expensive.
7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people mentioned
that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were $200-$300 less than
they are now.
Part 2
Pamela Blalock pam...@pcdocs.com
Considerations for women buying bikes.
Most production bikes are built proportionally for the AVERAGE MAN.
But the average man tends to be taller than the average woman, so
women, especially smaller women, may have a much more difficult time
finding a bike that fits. Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by
straddling the top tube may leave you a bike with a top tube that is
too long, since many of these smaller bikes have shorter seat tubes,
but the top tubes are left at the same length as larger bikes, so the
bike is no longer scaled proportionately. Of course this is not
strictly a woman's issue, but one that all smaller riders face.
Empirical evidence has come to suggest that many women are more
comfortable with a shorter top tube - stem combination than men.
Originally it was theorized that this was due to women having longer
legs and shorter torsos than men of the same height. Statistics have
proven otherwise. But despite the similar proportions, many women
still felt stretched out on bikes that men of the same size felt
comfortable on. There is no one definitive explanation for this. Some
have proposed that women may bend from the waist while men pivot more
at the hips, which would explain why two riders with identical torso
lengths might still want different top tube stem lengths. Georgena
Terry has observed that women tend to sit further back on their
saddles than men, which she believes is due to different distributions
in muscle mass. Again this could lead to that stretched out feeling.
I struggled for the longest time to get comfortable on a bike. I always
wanted to sit further back than I could. I finally found a gadget that
I could use to mount my saddle further back on the seat post. This
really helped. What helped even more was when I switched to a softride
bike. I switched for comfort, but discovered a very pleasant benefit,
that with the 5 inch range (fore/aft) of saddle adjustment along the
flat part of the beam, I could effectively choose any seat tube angle
I wanted. I could finally get my saddle far enough back.
A riding position that leaves the rider too stretched out can cause saddle
pain. It is not necessary to run out and buy a new bike right away if the
top tube on your current bike is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this
bike MAY give you a more comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40
mm, are available, but may have to be specially ordered.
Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers
generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for
everybody, especially women, since most of the original data was
collected for men. It is important to RIDE your bike and make
adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an infinitely
adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben Serotta to
help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta or not.
Adjustable stems are available to help you and the shop pick a perfect
length stem the first time, rather than the expensive trial and error
method of buying different length stems repeatedly until you find the
right size. Unless your current bike is a really, really poor fit, you
should be able to make a few relatively inexpensive changes to improve
the fit. Then when upgrading or buying a new bike, use what you have
learned to buy a bike that fits better.
Some builders tried to shorten the top tube by increasing the seat tube
angle, which then may place the rider uncomfortably far forward over the
pedals. This forces the rider to use an adapter in the seat post to get the
saddle back, which counteracts the *shorter* top tube. A steep seat tube
angle may be good for a time trial or triathlon, but is not comfortable for
longer distances, recreational riding or touring. And if it is true that
women tend to be more comfortable sitting further back, then this is really
counterproductive.
A sloping top tube has been used by many manufacturers to achieve a shorter
seat tube and more standover clearance, but this leaves the top tube length
the same as that for a larger bike, so the smaller rider still feels
streched out on a somewhat out of proportion bike..
Several manufacturers have started building bikes proportionally sized for
smaller riders to specifically address those needs. There are several
different ways of getting the smaller geometry. Some bikes have a small 24"
wheel in front and a 700C or 26" wheel in back, others have two 26"or 650C
wheels. To truly scale down a frame keeping it in proportion, it is
necessary to go with smaller wheels.
To avoid confusion, let me state that by 26", I am referring to 559mm bead
seat diameter. This size wheel is most commonly used in mountain biking.
Thanks to mountain bikers use of very narrow rims, and a few tire
manufacturers willingness to make narrow, slick tires for this size, these
wheels can be used to build smaller bikes with proper proportions. Several
manufacturers make 1.25 high pressure slicks which are very nice for loaded
touring or casual riding. Specialized has the ATB turbo, which they
advertise as 1 inch wide. I am currently using these on my commuter in good
weather. And I understand from recumbent riding friends that other 26X1"
tires are available through 'bent specialty shops. While the selection of
narrow tires is somewhat limited, it is growing. I understand there is more
variety in Germany, and soon both Ritchey and Continental will have narrow
tires available in the US market.
By 650C, I am referring to wheels with a bead seat diameter of 571mm. These
wheels have found their way onto many triathlon bikes. These wheels are
also occasionally referred to as 26" wheels, which is why the bead seat
diameter number is so important. Tires for these two different *26 inch*
wheel sizes are NOT interchangeable, and it is very important to know which
one you have. Currently there is a very narrow range of tires available for
this wheel size, and I mean narrow in more ways than one. In the US, the
widest available tire is a Continental 23 or Michelin 20. In my opinion,
neither of these tires is really wide enough for general purpose use on
rough roads, and definitely not quite up to touring standards. Of course I
live in New England where road surfaces are quite rough. I have used wheels
of this size on a softride equipped bike. I don't believe I could take the
shock from such a skinny tire on a non-suspended bike, at least not for
longer rides.
700C is of course ISO 622, and is the most common wheel size for road bikes
in the US today.
In addition to a shorter top tube, women's bikes may also have smaller
brake levers, narrower handlebars, shorter cranks and wider saddles.
Georgena Terry was the pioneer in this area, but many other manufacturers
now build women's bikes. They may cost a little more than a comparably
equipped man's bike, due to higher production costs for fewer number of
parts. But, I believe that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit
bike will pay off in the long run, since you will either stop riding an
uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace the
poorly fitting parts at additional cost.
Part 3
Womens Bikes manufacturer list by Marcy Stuzman, ml...@virginia.edu
I have compiled a partial list of what bikes I have heard of that are
designed specifically for women or small people. I have only ridden one of
these bikes myself, so I really can't comment on any of them. I would like
any comments from owners about these mailed to me so that they can be
included in the future.
Marinoni manufacturers a small frame, but it is not featured in their
homepage. For a description of this bike, you can visit Wedgewood
Cycles home page which does give a description of this bike.
The Marinoni comes in sizes up to 52 cm and has 26 inch wheels, which
can use slick mountain bike tires.
Bianchi makes a version of their bike called the Eros that comes with
the smaller wheels, but their web page so far is only finished in
Italian, so I couldn't discern much about the bike.
Cannondale manufacturered two bikes last year with the compact frame
(R500 and R800), but for 1997 is offering only the R600 in the compact
size.
Rodrigues is manufacturing a small bike which was featured in the Jan
1997? issue of Bicycling magazine. One nice feature is that this bike
uses Dia Comp's small hands brake levers and bar end shifters, which
may be easier for women with small hands to use than the Ergo or STI
shifters that are popular.
Waterford makes a bike, but I have been unable to find much more
information on this manufacturer.
Performance made a bike in 1994 called the Expresso that used a scaled
down design and 650c tires, but this design has been discontinued.
Rivendell also designs 50 cm bikes the 26" mountain bike sized wheels
and offers shorter top tubes on their bikes if you need it.
Trek offers its 470 roadbike in sizes as as small as 43 cm with 700c
wheels.
Terry bikes have been discusses extensively earlier in this article
and they don't yet have a home page, so I will just refer you to the
discussions above. (e-mail: tpb...@aol.com)
It was brought to my attention that Bike Friday, a folding bike with
20" wheels, does come in very small frame sizes for short people. Many
different brands of mountain bikes come in smaller sizes, including
Bontranger, Fat Chance and Ibis, but small mountain bikes are somewhat
easier to find than small road bikes.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.9 Bike Rentals
From: Various <people>
Skate Escape Ph. 404-892-1292
1086 Piedmont Ave. (Corner of 12th & Piedmont)
Atlanta, GA. 30332
Lincoln Guide Service
Lincoln Center
Lincoln, MA
(617) 259-9204
Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers. About 11 miles west of
Boston, within sight of Lincoln Center commuter rail stop.
Team Bicycle Rentals
508 Main
Huntington Beach, CA
(714) 969-5480
12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69
Gregg's Greenlake
Seattle, WA
Second Gear
Seattle, WA
New York City Area:
All phone numbers are area code (212).
A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531
Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011
Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151
AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137
Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500
Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100
Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450
Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201
Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218
Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594
A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344
City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457
San Francisco
Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT
Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004
Pismo Beach, CA
Beach Cycle Rentals, 150 Hinds Avenue, Pismo Beach, CA 93449 (805) 773-5518
http://www.fix.net/~pismobill/ or E-Mail pism...@fix.net
Marin County, CA
Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920
Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253
Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683
Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 415-332-0218
Austin, TX area
[all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes]
Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- (512) 477-3472
University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- (512) 474-6696
University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- (512) 474-6696
Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- (512) 322-9131
Boulder, CO
Boulder Bikesmith, Arapahoe Village, Boulder, (303) 443-1132
Bike'n'Hike, 1136 Main St, Longmont, (303) 772-5105
High Wheeler, 1015 Pearl St., Boulder, (303) 442-5588
(MTBs, Road and MTB tandems)
Lousiville Cyclery, 1032 S. Boulder Rd, Louisville, (303) 665-6343
Morgul-Bismark, 1221 Pennsylvania Ave, Boulder, (303) 447-1338
Doc's Ski and Sport, Table Mesa Center, Boulder, (303) 499-0963
University Bikes, 9th and Pearl, Boulder, (303) 449-2562
(MTBs and Tandems)
Full Cycle. 1211 13th St., Boulder, (303) 440-7771
High Gear, 1834 N. Main, Longmont, (303) 772-4327
Cutting Edge Sports, 1387 S. Boulder Rd., Louisville, (303) 666-3440
------------------------------
Subject: 7.10 Bike Lockers
From: David H. Wolfskill <da...@dhw68k.cts.com>
Many thanks to all who mailed or posted an interest in my quest for
information regarding bike locker vendors; I apologize for the delay in
posting this summary.
My colleague -- thanks to some of that information -- was able to locate
a sufficiently nearby vendor... one of the requirements of which I had
not been aware was that the vendor must be fairly close (to Orange
County, CA) -- to minimize shipping charges. (I apologize for failing
to determine this issue before posting, and hope that some of the
information about other vendors may be of value to others.)
I figured it would be more useful for me to organize the information,
so I have done so -- at the expense of making an attempt to give credit
for the sources at the point the information is quoted. (I include a
list of sources at the end of the article.)
First, I received a few pointers to one Ellen Fletcher, such as:
>For a comprehensive treatment of the bicycle parking subject,
>along with a list of vendors & prices, contact Ellen Fletcher
>at cdp!sc...@labrea.stanford.edu (put "ATTN ELLEN" in your
>"To" line.
[I requested clarification regarding addressing a note to Ms. Fletcher,
but have yet to receive it.]
>... Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA
>94303-4826, 415-495-8943.
Fortunately, someone sent a list of products & manufacturers,
apparently originally compiled by Ms. Fletcher. I have taken the
liberty of using that list as a "base document" and have augmented it
with other information I received; entries are alphabetically by
munufacturer's name, since I don't always have product names:
(Manufacturer, {Product Name(s)}, Address, Contact Person, Phone, FAX
[comments])
American Bicycle Security Co., {BIKE SAFE}, PO Box 7359 Ventura, CA
93006, Thomas E. Volk, 805-933-3688 & 800-BIKESAF, 805-933-1865.
Bike Gard 8149 South 600 East, Rexburg ID 83440
208-356-0744 bik...@ida.net http://www.ida.net/users/bikegd
Bike Lockers Company, {BikeLokr}, PO Box 445 W. Sacramento, CA 95691,,
916-372-6620, 916-372-3616 [approx. $300/locker, small
quantities].
Bike-Lokr Mfg. Co., {?}, PO Box 123, Joplin, MO 64802, Jim Snyder,
417-673-1960/800-462-4049, 417-673-3642 [approx $450/locker,
which holds 2 bikes; seem to be the lockers used by the
Washington, DC Metro system]
Bike Security Racks Co., {?}, PO Box 371, Cambridge, MA 02140,,
617-547-5755, -
Bike Stable Co., Inc., {?}, PO 1402, South Bend, Indiana 46624,,
219-233-7060, -
Cycle-Safe Inc., 2772-5 Woodlake Rd. SW Wyoming, MI 49509,,
(616)538-0079 -
David O'Keefe Company, {Super Secure Bike Stor}, P.O. Box 4457, Alamo,
CA 94507, Thomas & David O'Keefe, 415-637-4440, 415-837-6234.
General Machine company, {Bicycle Locker}, PO Box 405 Vacaville, CA 95696,
Vitto Accardi, 707-446-2761, -
J.G.Wilson Corp, {Park'n'Lock Bike Garage}, PO Box 599, Norfolk, VA
23501-0599, J.L.Bevan, 804-545-8341, 804-543-3249.
Palmer Group, [CrankCase] http://www.bikeparking.com
Sunshine U-LOK Corp., {Secura Bike Locker}, 31316 Via Colinas Suite 102,
Westlake Village, CA 91362, Doug Devine, 818-707-0110.
[Specific information near the end of the article -- dhw.]
Turtle Storage Ltd., {?}, P. O. Box 7359, Ventura, CA 93006,,, -
[Ed. note: The complete posting is available in the archives on
draco.acs.uci.edu.]
------------------------------
Subject: 7.11 Bike computer features
[This table was created from information contained in Performance and Nashbar
catalogs. In the table below, 'Y' means that the computer has the feature,
'O' means it is an optional feature.]
Speed Ave Max Total Trip Elpsd Clock Auto Count
Speed Speed Miles Miles Time OnOff Down
Avocet 30 Y Y Y Y Y Y
Avocet 40 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Avocet 50 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye Micro Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye Mity Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye Mity 2 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye Wireless Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye Vectra Y Y Y Y Y Y
Cateye ATC Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Ciclo 37 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Ciclo IIA Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Performance ITV Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta Innovator Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta HR1000 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta C-10 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta C-15 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta C-20 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta Two Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Vetta Wireless Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Specialized Y Y Y Y Y Y Y S
Speed Zone
Cadence Wireless Altitude Heart
Rate
Avocet 30
Avocet 40
Avocet 50 O Y
Cateye Micro Y
Cateye Mity
Cateye Mity 2
Cateye Wireless Y
Cateye Vectra
Cateye ATC
Ciclo 37
Ciclo IIA O O O
Performance ITV
Vetta Innovator
Vetta HR1000 Y
Vetta C-10
Vetta C-15
Vetta C-20 Y
Vetta Two Y
Vetta Wireless Y
Specialized
Speed Zone
------------------------------
Subject: 7.12 Recumbent Bike Info
From: David Wittenberg <d...@cs.brandeis.edu>
(updated by Gary Walsh gary....@canrem.com)
Here's my standard response to questions about recumbents. I'd be
happy to answer more specific questions.
Here's some info I posted in the fall of 1990. I think it's still pretty much
up to date. Changes from the last posting are in []'s.
--David Wittenberg
A few words about recumbent design, and then I'll provide a much
larger list of recumbent manufacturers.
There are three main choices in designing (or buying) a recumbent.
Frame material -- all the ones I know of are either Alumninum or Steel.
Wheelbase -- The front wheel can either be in front of the bottom bracket
(long wheelbase) or behind it (short wheelbase). You can't have a medium
wheelbase without a lot of extra work because the wheel and the bottom
bracket would interfere with each other. Long wheelbase is reputed to
be a bit more stable, while short wheelbase machines are often easier to
fit into cars for transport. Some long wheelbase recumbents fold in
neat ways to fit into a remarkably small space.
Handlebars -- under seat or in front of the rider. Under seat is probably
a more comfortable position when you get used to it (your hands just hang
at your sides), and may be somewhat safer if you get thrown forward as
there is nothing in front of you. High handlebars are somewhat faster
as your arms are in front of you instead of at your side, thus reducing
the frontal area. Some people find them more natural.
[There are long wheelbase bikes with both high and low handlebars. I don't
know of any short wheelbase, low handlebar recumbents, but there may
be some I don't know of.]
The following updated by Gary Walsh (gary....@canrem.com) July 1992.
There are a couple of interesting publications for recumbents:
International Human Powered Vehicle Association
P.O. Box 51255
Indianapolis, IN 46251 USA
They publish Human Power Magazine and HPV News on all aspects of human
powered transportation (bikes, aircraft, watercraft.)
Dues are US$25/year in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, and US$30 elsewhere.
The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America/Recumbent Cyclist Magazine
PO Box 58755
Renton, WA 98058-1755.
(206) 852-8149
The best source of information on commercially available recumbents. Read
the reviews in this magazine before you buy your first recumbent.
Subscriptions are US$25 in the U.S.A., and US$30/year elsewhere. Sample
issue and info pack $5. See especially the buyers guide in issue #8
Oct-Dec 1992.
Addresses of recumbent manufacturers:
Ace Tool & Engineering (Infinity Recumbent) $1 for a flyer
P.O Box 325
292 W. Harrison St.
Mooresville, IN 46158
(317) 831-8798 Long wheelbase, low handlebars, aluminum frames.
$499 + $85 for triple crank option.
Information $1.
Alternative Bikestyles
P.O. Box 1344
Bonita, CA 91908
Phone (619)421-5118 Maverick $ Renegade LWB recumbents with upright
handlebars. Framesets from $200. Complete bikes
from $395.
Advanced Transportation Products
550 3rd Ave. N.
Edmonds, WA 98020
Phone (206)771-3719 R-20 SWB. $1350. Info pack $2.
Angle Lake Cyclery
20840 Pacific Hwy S.
Seattle WA 98198
Phone (206)878-7457 Counterpoint Presto SWB with upright handlebars.
Presto SE Tour $1699.
Presto SE High Performance $???.
Presto CL $1399.
Counterpoint Opus IV Tandem
Opus CL $2999
Opus SE $3599
Tri Com Trikes $600-$700.
Catalogue $2
Original Car-Cycle Technology
1311 Victoria Ave.
Victoria, B.C.,
Canada V8S 4P4
Phone (604)598-7830 Fully fared commuter trike. Under development.
DH Recumbents, Inc.
4007-G Bellaire Blvd.
Houston, TX 77025
Phone (713)666-4452 LWB with upright steering.
DH1000 $999, DH5000 $1395.
Earth Traveller
1475 Lillian St.
Livermore, CA 94550
Phone (415)449-8312 LWB trike with 2 wheels in back.
Information $1.
EcoCycle
Earth Friendly Transportation
5755 NW Fair Oaks Dr.
Corvallis, OR 97330
(503) 753-5178 The Trice is a recumbent tricycle, with
two wheels in front. Touring $1495.
Speed model $1595.
Also imports Ross recumbent from England.
$2 for flyer, $9 for video tape.
Easy Racers, Inc
Box 255H
Freedom, CA 95019
(408) 722-9797 High handlebar, long wheelbase bikes.
Easy Racer $2300. Frameset $1650.
Gold Rush Replica, commercial version of
the Dupont prize winning Gold Rush (world's
fastest bike) also available.
$2 for a catalog
Lightning Cycle Dynamics
312 Ninth Street
Lompoc, CA 93436
(805) 736-0700 P-38 Short Wheelbase, high handlebars.
Full fairings are available, and very
fast. $1750.
F-40 fully fared version.
Lightning Cycle Inc. (Tailwind) $1 for a brochure
3819 Rte. 295
Swanton, OH 43558
(419) 826-4056 Steel long wheelbase, underseat steering.
Around $1200.
Linear Manufacturing Inc. (Linear)
Route 1, Box 173
Guttenberg, IA 52052
(319) 252-1637 Long Wheelbase aluminum bike with either
high or low handlebars (You can convert
from one to the other.) $900 to $1200.
They sell through dealers, and if you
get in touch with them they'll tell you
where the nearest dealer is. Canadians
see S.C. Safety Cycle below.
Rans Recumbents
1104 E. Hwy. 40 Bypass
Hays, KS 67601
(913) 625-6346 Rans Stratus A & B and Nimbus. LWB with
upright handlebars. $995-$1495.
ReBike
P.O Box 725
Boca Raton, FL 33429
Phone (407)750-1304 The ReBike. A low priced semi-recumbent
with upright steering. New and a big seller.
$389.
Rotator
915 Middle Rincon Rd.
Santa Rosa, CA 95409
(707) 539-4203 Rotator Super-7 Streamliner - LWB with 20" wheels.
Rotator Companion Tandem.
Rhoades International
100 Rhoades Lane
Hendersonville, TN 37075
Phone (615)822-2737 4-wheel pedal car. $999 and up.
Information $4. Video $19.
Ryan Recumbents, Inc.
99R Washinton Street
Melrose MA 02176
ph/fax 617-979-0072
e-mail: www.ry...@ryancyles.com
web address: www.ryancycles.com
Vanguard. Long wheelbase, underseat steering.
From $1295.
S.C. Safety Cycle Inc.
1340B St. Paul St.
Kelowna, B.C.
Canada V1Y 2E1 Canadian distributor of the Linear which is
sold as "The Alternative." CAN$1495.
Special Purpose Vehicles
120 Prospect Street
Somerville, MA 02143
(617) 625-9030
Thebis International
110-2031 Malaview Ave.
Sidney, B.C.
Canada V8L 3X9
Phone (604)656-1237
1-800-667-6801 Thebis 201 Touring Trike. Two wheels in back.
$2990.
Trailmate
2359 Trailmate Dr.
Sarasota FL 34243
Phone (813)755-5511 Fun Cycle and Bannana Peel trikes. $399.
Turner Enterprises
P.O.Box 36158
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Phone (383)-0030 SWB with underseat steering.
Laid Back "E" frame kit $375.
LB-2000 $1500. Frameset $899.
Zzip Designs
P.O. Box 14
Davenport, CA 95017
Phone (408)425-8650 Manufacturer of fairings for many of the
bikes listed above.
Cyclopedia
P.O. Box 884
Adrian, MI 49221
1-800-678-1021 Good source for parts for builders.
----------------
European Recumbents
Leitra APS
PO Box 64 DK-2750
Ballerup, Denmark Leitra M2 fully fared commuter trike.
3400 DM for the trike.
5845 DM for complete vehicle with accessories.
Bas Ten Brinke
Postbus 10075
1301 Almere,
Netherlands Flevo SWB front wheel drive.
Fateba, Bachman & Co.
Rosenstr. 9,
8400 Winterthur
Switzerland Fateba Winglet L1 LWB.
Kincycle
Miles Kingsbury
Lane End Road, Sands,
High Wycombe, Bucks
HP12 4JQ England The Kingcycle SWB.
M5
Bram Moens
Waalstraat 41,
NL-4335 KL
Middleburg, Netherlands. M5 SWB.
Neatwork
The Lees Stables
Coldstream, Berwickshire,
Scotland TD12-4NN Dealer for Kingcycle SWB and Radius
Peer Gynt LWB.
Radius-Spezialrader,
Frie-Vendt-Str 16, D-4400
Munster, Germany RFA Peer Gynt LWB with underseat steering.
More Recumbent Bike Info (Gary Walsh gary....@canrem.com)
[This has been copied from a flyer written by Robert Bryant of the
Recumbent Cyclist Magazine. He has given me permission to submit
it for the FAQ. - Gary]
Have You Ever Considered a RECUMBENT BICYCLE?
WHY RECUMBENT BICYCLES?
There are many reasons to consider a recumbent. First and foremost
is comfort. When you ride a recumbent bicycle you will no longer have
an aching back, stiff neck, numb wrists or a sore a sore bottom. You
will sit in a relaxed easy-chair position. You will be able to ride
longer with less fatigue and arrive at your destination feeling
refreshed. The recumbent position offerd you a great view of the
countryside. While seated you will look straight ahead. This allows your
lungs and chest more open and free breathing. Recumbents are very
versatile machines. They can be used for a wide range of applications:
recreational/sport riding, for the daily commute, a fast double century
and they are great for long distance touring.
RECUMBENT PERFORMANCE
Recumbents hold all of the human-powered speed records. This is
because they are aerodynamically superior to conventional bicycles;
less frontal area means less wind resistance. The Lightning F-40
currently holds the Race Across America speed record of five days and
one hour. Gardner Martin's Easy Racer Gold Rush, ridden by Fast Freddie
Markham, was the winner of the Dupont Prize for breaking 65mph. You
can currently buy production versions of these bicycles. Fairings for
street use are common and optional equipment on most commercially built
models. They protect you from rain, cold and wind, with up to a 30%
reduction in drag. Commercially available recumbents are not always
faster than conventional bicycles. It depends mainly on the individual
rider. Your best bet is to do you homework and if your goal is
performance and speed, be sure that you look for a recumbent designed
for this purpose.
COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RECUMBENT BICYCLES
1) Do recumbents climb hills well? Yes they do, although climbing on a
recumbent requires a different technique, you must gear down and spin.
Maintaining an efficient spin takes some practice & conditioning, once
mastered, it takes less physical effort to climb hills. Depending on
your riding style, your speeds can range from slowwer to even faster
than on a conventional bicycle.
2) Can recumbents be seen in traffic? Recumbents with a higher seating
position may be better suited for riding in traffic than some of the
low-slung designs. The use of use of proper safety devices such as
safety flags and reflective devices is recommended. Recumbent bicycles
are different, futuristic and they get noticed. Many riders feel they
get more respect from motorists while on their recumbents.
3) Are they safe? Recumbent's are safer than a conventional bicycle.
Due to the low centre of gravity, they stop faster. Brakes can be
evenly applied to both wheels simultaneously providing more traction
without throwing the rider over the handlebars. In crash situations,
the rider goes down to the side absorbing the impact with the hip and
leg rather than flying over the handlebars and absorbing the impact on
your head and shoulder. Straight ahead vision is also better on a
recumbent, however, rear view mirrors are necessary for proper
rearward
vision.
RECUMBENT PAST HISTORY
Why are recumbents such a rare sight? Space age technology? New
type of bicycle? Not really, recumbent bicycles actually go back as
far as the mid to late 1800's with the Macmillan Velocopede and the
Challand Recumbent. In the 1930's, a series of events took place that
changed bicycling history. A French second category professional
track cyclist named Francois Faure rode the Velocar, a two wheeled
recumbent bicycle designed and built by Charles Mochet, to
record-shattering speeds, breaking both the mile and kilometre records
of the day. This created a storm of controversy within the U.C.I.
(United Cycliste International), bicycle rating's governing body. The
debate centred on whether the Velocar was a bicycle and were these
records legal? In 1934 they ruled against the Mochet-Faure record,
banning recumbent bicycles and aerodynamic devices from racing. Were
U.C.I. members worried that the recumbent bicycle would displace the
conventional design? Did they realize this would freeze bicycle and
human-powered vehicle development for the next forty years? This is
why bicycles of taday look very similar to the Starkey and Sutton
Safety (upright/conventional) of 1885. Just think where bicycle
technology would be today if the U.C.I. decision had gone the opposite
way.
MODERN RECUMBENT HISTORY
Recumbent development was fairly quiet until the late 1960's. Dan
Henry received some media attention for his long wheelbase design in
1968. In the early 1970's, the human-powered revolution was starting up
on both the U.S. east coast by David Gordon, designer of the Avatar, and
on the west coast by Chester Kyle. These pioneers recognized the need
for further development of human-powered vehicles. In the late 1970's
and early 1980's, this lead to the first commercial recumbent bicycle
designs such as the Avatar, Easy Racer and Hypercycle. In 1990, the
Recumbent Bicycle Club of America was founded by Dick Ryan who currently
manufactures the Ryan Vanguard and was also involved with the Avatar
project in the early 1980's. In 1988 recumbent promoter Robert Bryant
got his start writing "Recumbent Ramblings," a column for "HPV News."
In the summer of 1990, Robert founded the "Recumbent Cyclist Magazine,"
and in a short two years, RCM has become the source for recumbent bicyle
information in the world today.
SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION
RECUMBENT CYCLIST MAGAZINE
17560-B6-140th Ave SE, Ste 341
Renton WA 98058
__$2 Info-Pak/recumbent manufacturer list
__$5 Current sample issue with info-pak/list
__$20 USA Bulk Mail Subscription
__$25 USA First Class Mail Subscription Rush Service
__$30 Canada Air Mail
__$35 Worldwide Air Mail (USA funds) (anywhere outside USA/CAN)
__$50 Junior Supporter (includes 3 copies of each issue, mailed first
class
__$100 RBCA Supporter (includes 10 copies of each issue mailed Priority)
BACK ISSUE ORDERING INFO
-Back issues are mailed 3rd class postage. (allow 4 weeks for delivery.)
-First Class Mail/Rush Service - add $.50 per issue.
-Canadian Air Mail/Rush Service - add $1.00 per issue.
-Worldwide Air Mail - add $2.00 per issue.
-Super-Rush Service? We can do FEDEX overnight C.O.D.
$4.00 __RC#2 Flevo & CSPC "Poor Man's Composite"
$4.00 __RC#3 DH5000 LWB Road Test
$4.00 __RC#4 Ryan Vanguard Road Test/F-40/Flevo
$4.00 __RC#5 Linear LWB Road Test/Omega HPV/HPV Design Info
$4.50 __RC#6 Easy Racer Road Test
$4.50 __RC#7 Lightning P-38 Road Test
$4.50 __RC#8 1992 Recumbent Buyers Guide
$4.50 __RC#9 A.T.P. R-20 SWB Road Test
$4.50 __RC#10 Thebis Trike Road Test
$4.50 __RC#11 Counterpoint Presto Road Test
$4.50 __RC#12 Rans Road Test (available 9/92)
$4.50 __RC#13 Trice Road Test (Available 11/92)
$4.50 __RC#14 (Available 1/93)
$4.50 __RC#14 (Available 3/93)
$4.50 __RC#15 (Available 5/93)
Mike Iglesias
Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part3
[Note: The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]
------------------------------
Subject: 7.13 Buying a Bike
One thing to decide before buying a bike is what type to buy. Here's a
brief list:
Road bike Once known as a "ten-speed", most are now 12 or 14 (or even
16) speed. There are several sub-types: racing, sport,
and touring, the difference mostly in frame geometry.
ATB All-terrain bike, also known as mountain bike. Great for
riding in the dirt, these bikes usually have fat, knobby
tires for traction in dirt and gravel.
Hybrid A bike that borrows from road bikes and ATBs. For example,
they have the light frame and 700c wheels of road bikes and
fat knobby tires, triple cranks, wide-range derailleurs,
flat handlebars and cantilever brakes from mountain bikes.
Bike buying hints
When you're ready to buy a bike, you should first decide what you want
to use the bike for. Do you want to race? Do you want to pedal along
leisurely? Do you want to ride in the dirt?
Next, you should decide on a price range. Plan to spend at least
$350 for a decent quality bike.
Now find a good bike shop. Ask friends who bike. Ask us here on the
net. Chances are, someone here lives in your area and can recommend
a shop.
Now that you are ready to look for a bike, visit the shop(s) you have
selected. Test ride several bikes in your price range. How does it
feel? Does it fit you? How does it shift? Does it have the features
you are looking for? How do the shop personnel treat you? Remember
that the shop gets the bike disassembled and has to spend a couple of
hours putting it together and adjusting things, so look for sloppy
work (If you see some, you may want to try another shop). You might
want to try a bike above your price range to see what the differences
are (ask the salesperson).
Ask lots of questions - pick the salesperson's brain. If you don't
ask questions, they may recommend a bike that's not quite right
for you. Ask about places to ride, clubs, how to take care of your
bike, warranties, etc. Good shops will have knowledgable people
who can answer your questions. Some shops have free or low-cost
classes on bike maintenance; go and learn about how to fix a flat,
adjust the brakes and derailleurs, overhaul your bike, etc.
Ask your questions here - there are lots of people here just waiting
for an excuse to post!
Make sure that the bike fits you. If you don't, you may find that
you'll be sore in places you never knew could be so sore. For road
bikes, you should be able to straddle the top tube with your feet flat
on the ground and still have about 1 inch of clearance. For mountain
bikes, give yourself at least 2-3 inches of clearance. You may need
a longer or shorter stem or cranks depending on your build - most
bikes are setup for "average" bodies. The bike shop can help you
with adjustments to the handlebars and seat.
Now that you've decided on a bike, you need some accessories. You
should consider buying
a helmet
a frame pump
a tube repair kit
tire levers (plastic)
a pressure gauge
a seat pack (for repair kit, wallet, keys, etc)
gloves
a water bottle and cage
a lock
The shop can help you select these items and install them on your bike.
------------------------------
Subject: 7.14 Kid's Bike Clothes
There are several places selling shorts and jerseys for kids:
Performance Bike Shop (see listing in section 9.2)
Nashbar ( "" )
Rad Rat Ragz
303/247-4649 (CO)
Freewheelers
617/423-2944 (MA)
Teri T's
503/383-2243 (OR)
------------------------------
Subject: 7.15 Repair stands
THe Bicycle Service Station WWW site is at:
http://www.islandnet.com/~wwseb/bike.html
------------------------------
Subject: 8 Tech
------------------------------
Subject: 8.1 Technical Support Numbers
From: Joshua Putnam <Joshua...@happy-man.com>
[This list is now in the ftp archives as it is too long to put here]
------------------------------
Subject: 8.2 Ball Bearing Grades
From: Bill Codding <pe...@simplicity.Stanford.EDU>,
Harry Phinney <ha...@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com>
Following is a description of the different grades of ball bearings.
The grade specifies the sphericity of the balls in millionths of an inch.
Thus, grade 25 are round to 25/10^6, while grade 1000 are good to 1/1000
(i.e. not all that round, but probably good enough for our uses).
Grade 25: the highest quality normally available, aka
"Campagnolo quality": hardened all the way through, best
alloys, coatings, roundness, and durability. Evidently,
a recent bottom-bracket overhaul article in "Bicycling Plus
Mountain Bike" magazine recommended these. Campy's tech reps
claim that the bearings in a set (usually in a little paper bag)
are matched. One should not mix bearings from different sets.
Grade 200: mid-range
Grade 1000: seems to be the lowest, may only be surface
hardened.
Good sources for ball bearings:
Your local bike shop (make sure you're getting the grade you want)
Bike Parts Pacific
Bike Nashbar 1-800-NASHBAR ($1-$3 per 100 Grade 25)
The Third Hand 1-916-926-2600 ($4-$7 per 100 Grade 25)
------------------------------
Subject: 8.3 SIS Cable Info
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
After Joe Gorin described the SIS "non-compressive" cable housing to
me I got myself a sample to understand what the difference is. I
believe "non-compressive" is a misnomer. This cable housing is NOT
non-compressive but rather a constant length housing. As far as I can
determine, and from reports from bike shops, this housing should not
be used for brakes because it is relatively weak in compression, the
principal stress for brake housing.
SIS housing is made of 18 strands of 0.5mm diameter round spring steel
wire wrapped in a 100mm period helix around a 2.5mm plastic tube. The
assembly is held together by a 5mm OD plastic housing to make a
relatively stiff cable housing. Because the structural wires lie in a
helix, the housing length remains constant when bent in a curve. Each
strand of the housing lies both on the inside and outside of the curve
so on the average the wire path length remains constant, as does the
housing centerline where the control cable resides. Hence, no length
change. A brake cable housing, in contrast, changes length with
curvature because only the inside of the curve remains at constant
length while the outside (and centerline) expands.
Shimano recommends this cable only for shift control but makes no
special effort to warn against the danger of its use for brakes. It
should not be used for anything other than shift cables because SIS
housing cannot safely withstand compression. Its wires stand on end
and have no compressive strength without the stiff plastic housing
that holds them together. They aren't even curved wires, so they
splay out when the outer shield is removed. Under continuous high
load of braking, the plastic outer housing can burst leaving no
support. Besides, in its current design it is only half as flexible
as brake cable because its outer shell is made of structurally stiff
plastic unlike the brake cable housing that uses a soft vinyl coating.
Because brake cables transmit force rather than position, SIS cable,
even if safe, would have no benefit. In contrast, with handlebar
controls to give precise shift positioning, SIS housing can offer some
advantage since the cable must move though steering angles. SIS
housing has no benefit for downtube attached shifters because the
cable bends do not change.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.4 Milk Jug Mud Flaps
From: Chuck Tryon <bi...@bisco.kodak.com>
Actually, I have used plastic like this (or in my case, some
red plastic from a cheap note book cover -- it's heavier) to extend the
bottom (rear) end of the front fender. The Zephals are good, but they
don't stop the splash from where the tire hits the road from getting on my
feet. What I did was cut a small triangle about 3in (~7cm) wide by 6in
(~15cm) long, cut a hole in the top of it and the bottom end of the fender,
and use a pop-rivet (with washers to prevent tear out) to attach it. On a
road bike, it should be end up being within a few inches of the road. ATB's
will need more clearance, so this won't work well off road.
| |
| |
/| o |\ <----- rivet with washer on inside
| \___/ |
/ \ <---- flap fits inside of the fender, and follows the
| | curve, which gives it some stiffness.
| |
| |
\_________/
| |
| | <----- bottom of tire
\_/
------------------------------
Subject: 8.5 Lubricating Chains
Lubricating chains is a somewhat religious issue. Some advocate oil,
some Teflon-base lubricants, some paraffin wax. The net majority favors
a lubricant that does not leave an oily coating on the chain that can
attract dirt, which will hasten chain/chainring/freewheel sprocket wear.
If you want to use paraffin wax, make sure you melt the wax in a double
boiler! Failure to do so can lead to a fire. You can use a coffee
can in a pan of boiling water if you don't want to mess up good cookware.
After the wax has melted, put the chain in the wax and simmer for 10
minutes or so. Remove the chain, hang it up, and wipe the excess wax
off. Let it cool and reinstall on your bike.
When using a liquid lubricant, you want to get the lube onto the pins
inside the rollers on the chains, not on the outside where it does little
good. Oilers with the narrow tubes are good for this because you can put
the lube where you want it. Work the oil into the chain after applying
it, wipe the chain off, and reinstall on your bike.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.6 Wear and Gear Slippage
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Chain wear and care seems to be a never ending discussion, especially
for new bicyclists who are not entirely happy with this dirtiest of
bicycle parts. This leads to the first problem, of whether there is a
best (and cleanest) way to care for a chain. There are several ways
to take care of a chain of which some traditional methods are the most
damaging to the chain and others work to prolong life.
At the outset the term "chain stretch" is misleading and wrong.
Chains do not stretch, in the dictionary sense, by elongating the
metal through tension. They lengthen because their hinge pins and
sleeves wear. This wear is caused almost exclusively by road grit
that enters the chain when it is oiled. Grit sticks to the outside of
a chain in the ugly black stuff that can get on ones leg, but external
grime has little functional effect because it is on the outside where
it does the chain no damage. Only when a dirty chain is oiled, or has
excessive oil on it, can this grit move inside where it causes damage.
Commercial abrasive grinding paste is made of oil and silicon dioxide
(sand) and silicon carbide (sand). You couldn't do a better job if
you tried to destroy a chain, than to oil a dirty chain.
Primitive rule #1: Never oil a chain on the bike.
This means the chain should be cleaned of grit before oiling it and
because this is practically impossible without submerging the chain in
a solvent bath (kerosene or commercial solvent), it must be taken off
the bicycle. Devices with rotating brushes, that can be clamped on
the chain on the bicycle, do a fair job but are messy and do not
prevent fine grit from becoming suspended in the solvent. External
brushing or wiping moves grit out of sight, but mainly into the
openings in the chain where subsequent oiling will carry it inside.
Do not use gasoline because it is explosive and contains toxic light
petroleum fractions that penetrate the skin. Removing the chain from
the bicycle isn't always possible. There are times (after riding in
the rain) when a chain screams for oil and a good cleaning is not
practical. In that case rule #1 may be violated for humanitarian
reasons. However, only an internally clean chain squeaks, so it isn't
as bad as it sounds. Also, water is a moderately good lubricant, but
as soon as the rain stops, it evaporates.
Removing the solvent from the chain after rinsing is important.
Compressed air is not readily available in the household nor is a
centrifuge. Manually slinging the chain around outdoors works best if
the chain is a closed loop but without pressing the pin completely in.
The other way is to evaporate it. Accelerated drying methods by
heating should be avoided, because they can be explosive.
Lubricating the chain with hot 90W gear lube works but it is also
efficient fly paper, collecting plenty of hardpack between sprockets
and on the outside of the chain. Motor oil is far better, but
motorcycle chain and chainsaw lubricants are better yet, because they
have volatile solvents that allow good penetration for their
relatively viscous lubricant. Paraffin (canning wax), although clean,
works poorly because it is not mobile and cannot replenish the bearing
surfaces once it has been displaced. This becomes apparent with any
water that gets on the chain. It immediately sqeaks.
Swaged bushing chains
Sedis was the first with its Sedisport chain to introduce swaged
bushings, formed into the side plates, to replace full width steel
bushings on which the rollers and pins bear. Although stronger and
lighter than prior chains, it achieves its light weight at the expense
of durability. These chains, now the only derailleur chains
available, have only vestigial sleeves in the form of short collars on
the side plates to support the roller on the outside and the link pin
on the inside. This design is both lighter and stronger because the
side plates need not have the large hole for insertion of sleeves.
Because MTB's use drive sprockets as small as 18t that can cause
extremely high chain loads, pin and sleeve chains could be at a
disadvantage to safely withstand such loads while shifting.
The pins inside full bushing chains were well protected against
lubricant depletion because both ends were covered by closely fitting
side plates. Some motorcycle chains have O-ring seals at each end.
In the swaged bushing design there is no continuous tube because the
side plates are formed to support the roller and pin on a collar with
a substantial central gap. In the wet, lubricant is quickly washed
out of pin and roller and the smaller bearing area of the swaged
bushing for the pin and roller easily gall and bind when lubrication
fails. Although this is not a problem for this type of chain when dry
it has feet of clay in the wet.
Chain Life
Chain life is almost entirely a cleanliness and lubrication question
rather than a load problem. For bicycles the effect of load
variations is insignificant compared to the lubricant and grit
effects. For example, motorcycle primary chains, operated under oil
in clean conditions, last years while the exposed rear chains must be
replaced often.
The best way to determine whether a chain is worn is by measuring its
length. A new chain has a half inch pitch with a pin at exactly every
half inch. As the pins and sleeves wear, this spacing increases and
this concentrates more load on the last tooth of engagement, changing
the tooth profile. When the chain pitch grows over one half percent,
it is time for a new chain. At one percent, sprocket wear progresses
rapidly because this length change occurs only between pin and sleeve
so that it is concentrated on every second pitch; the pitch of the
inner link containing the rollers remaining constant. By holding a
ruler along the chain on the bicycle, align an inch mark with a pin
and see how far off the mark the pin is at twelve inches. An eighth
of an inch (0.125) is a little over the one percent limit while more
than a sixteenth is a prudent time to get a new chain.
Skipping Chain
Sprockets do not change pitch when they wear, only their tooth form
changes. The number of teeth and base circle remain unchanged by
normal sprocket wear.
A new chain often will not freely engage a worn rear sprocket under
load, even though it has the same pitch as the chain. This occurs
because the previous (worn and elongated) chain formed pockets in the
teeth by exiting under load. A chain with correct pitch cannot enter
the pockets when its previous roller bears the previous tooth, because
the pocket has an overhang that prevents entry.
Without a strong chain tensioner or a non derailleur bicycle, the
chain has insufficient force on its slack run to engage a driven
sprocket. In contrast, engagement of a driving sprocket, the crank
sprocket, generally succeeds even with substantial tooth wear, because
the drive tension forces engagement.
However, worn teeth on a driving sprocket cause "chainsuck", the
failure of the chain to disengage the chainwheel. This occurs more
easily with a long arm derailleur, common to most MTB's, that is one
reason this occurs less with road racing bicycles, that experience a
noisy disengagement instead.
In contrast a worn chain will not run on a new driving sprocket. This
is less apparent because new chainwheels are not often used with an
old chain. In contrast to a driven sprocket (rear) the chain enters
the driving sprocket under tension, where the previous chain links
pull it into engagement. However, because a used chain has a longer
pitch than the sprocket, previous rollers bear almost no load and
allow the incoming chain link to climb the ramp of the tooth, each
successive link riding higher than the previous until the chain jumps.
The pockets in a used sprocket are small but they change the pressure
angle of the teeth enough to overcoming this problem.
Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
------------------------------
Subject: 8.7 Adjusting Chain Length
From: Bob Fishell <sp...@cbnewsd.att.com>
For all Shimano SIS and Hyperglide systems, the chain is sized by shifting to
the smallest rear cog and the largest front sprocket, then sizing the
chain so that the derailleur pulleys are on a vertical line, or as close
as you can get to it. Note that this will result in the same chain length
for any freewheel within the capacity of the derailleur, so it usually is
not necessary to re-size the chain for a different cogset with these systems.
The other rule I've used (friction systems) involves shifting to the largest
chainring and the largest rear cog, then sizing the chain so that the pulleys
are at a 45 degree angle to the ground.
The rules probably vary from derailleur to derailleur. In general,
you may use the capacity of the rear derailleur cage as a guideline. You
want the chain short enough so the cage can take up the slack in the
smallest combination of chainwheel and rear cog you will use. The chain
must also be long enough so that the cage still has some travel in the
largest combination you will use.
For example, if you have a 42x52 crank and a 13x21 freewheel, the smallest
combination you would use would be a 42/14 (assuming you don't use the
diagonal). If the cage can take up the slack in this combo, it's short enough.
If the cage has spring left when you are in the 52/19 combo (again, you are
not using the diagonal), it's long enough.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.8 Hyperglide chains
For those of you that are tired of dealing with Shimano's
chains with the special pins, I've found that the following
chains work well with Shimano Hyperglide gearing systems:
DID SuperShift
Sedis ATB
Union 800
Union 915
The SuperShift is probably the best performer of the bunch,
followed by the ATB and 915. The 800 doesn't do too well
with narrow cogsets (i.e., 8-speeds) because the raised
elliptical bumps on the side-plates tend to rub on the adjacent
cogs.
I've also found that these chains work well on SunTour systems.
The 915, however, works better on PowerFlo cogs than it does
on regular (AccuShift) cogs (where it tends to slip when shifting).
------------------------------
Subject: 8.9 Bottom Bracket Info
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
The four kinds of BB threads in common use today are Italian, British,
French, and Swiss, possibly in that order of occurrence.
Diameter Pitch Right Left Cup
-------- ----- ----- -----
Italian 36mm x 24F tpi right right tpi (threads per inch)
British 1.370" x 24F tpi left right
French 35mm x 1mm right right
Swiss 35mm x 1mm left right
Unless there is something wrong with the right hand cup it should not be
removed but should be wiped clean and greased from the left side. The
thread type is usually marked on the face of both left and right cups.
Swiss threads are rare but if you have one it is good to know before
attempting removal.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.10 Crank noises
From: Phil Etheridge <ph...@massey.ac.nz>
I've had the creaky crank problem on every bike I've owned which has
had cotterless cranks. Until now, I've never known a good solution to
the problem.
One suggestion I had was to replace the crank, but that wasn't
something I was prepared to do on 1 month old bike under warranty.
The shop mechanic spent half an hour with me and my bike sorting it
out. Tightening the crank bolts and pedal spindle (i.e. onto the
crank) didn't help (as Jobst will tell you).
Removing each crank, smearing the spindle with grease and replacing
the crank eliminated most of the noise. Removing each pedal, smearing
grease on the thread and replacing it got rid of the rest of the
noise.
Greasing the pedal threads is a new one on me, but it makes a lot of
sense, since they are steel and the crank aluminum. I thought it was
worth relating this story, as creaky cranks seems to be quite a common
problem.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.11 Cracking/Breaking Cranks
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Since the advent of the crank cottage industry, crank failures have
become more common than previously because most of these "home made"
cranks, usually produced in prototype quantities on numerically
controlled (NC) milling machines, have not been designed with sound
engineering practices, nor have they been tested destructively in
repeatable tests on testing machines. My comments are mostly aimed at
major brand production cranks.
Cranks break primarily because they are aluminum and because they have
high stress principally at two places. Aluminum has no distinct
fatigue threshold in contrast to steel, so that with increasing use
and load cranks are destined to break at the two most failure prone
places, the pedal eye, and the junction of the spider fingers and the
right crank.
The pedal eye is weak because the joint is incorrectly designed, but
being standard, it may not be changed since it appears to work. This
joint always moves under load and through its fretting causes an
undercut in the face of the crank. Removal of a pedal, that has been
ridden any considerable amount, will reveal a recess in the face of
the crank with cracks around its circumference caused by fretting.
The cracks often propagate into the crank and cause failure. A
solution to this problem would be a 45 degree taper in place of the
flat shoulder at the end of the pedal thread.
The thin web between the crank and the adjacent legs of a five legged
spider is also a place where most cranks crack. The Campagnolo
C-Record as well as Ritchey cranks address this problem by using the
crank itself as the fifth leg of the spider, and transmitting pedal
torque directly from the crank to the chainwheels. By this
arrangement the spider merely supports the chainwheels radially and
laterally and the driving torque is delivered by a solid anchor.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.12 Biopace chainrings
Biopace chainrings have fallen into disfavor in recent years. They
are hard to "pedal in circles". The early Biopace chainrings were
designed for cadences of around 50-70 rpm, while most recommend a
cadence of 80-100 rpm. Newer Biopace chainrings are less elliptical,
but the general consensus is to (if you are buying a new bike) get the
dealer to change the chainrings to round ones.
Sheldon Brown has some information on Biopage chainrings at
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biz/hub/biopace.html.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.13 Snakebite flats
Snakebite flats are usually caused by the tire and tube being pinched
between the road and the rim, causing two small holes in the tube that
look like a snakebite. The usual causes are underinflation, too
narrow a tire for your weight, or hitting something (rock, pothole)
while having your full weight on the tire.
The obvious solutions are to make sure your tires are inflated properly,
use a larger size tire if you weigh a lot, and either avoid rocks and
potholes or stand up with your knees and elbows flexed (to act like shock
absorbers) when you go over them.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.14 Blown Tubes
From: Tom Reingold <t...@samadams.princeton.edu>
Charles E Newman writes:
$ Something really weird happened at 12:11 AM. My bike blew a
$ tire while just sitting parked in my room. I was awakened by a noise
$ that scared the livin ^&$% out of me. I ran in and found that all the
$ air was rushing out of my tire. How could something like happen in the
$ middle of the night when the bike isn't even being ridden? I have
$ heard of it happening when the bike is being ridden but not when it is
$ parked.
This happened because a bit of your inner tube was pinched between your
tire bead and your rim. Sometimes it takes a while for the inner tube
to creap out from under the tire. Once it does that, it has nothing to
keep the air pressure in, so it blows out. Yes, it's scary. I've had
it happen in the room where I was sleeping.
To prevent this, inflate the tire to about 20 psi and move the tire
left and right, making sure no part of the inner tube is pinched.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.15 Mounting Tires
From: Douglas Gurr <dg...@daimi.aau.dk>
A request comes in for tyre mounting tricks. I suspect that this ought to be
part of the FAQ list. However in lieu of this, I offer the way it was taught
to me. Apologies to those for whom this is old hat, and also for the paucity
of my verbal explanations. Pictures would help but, as always, the best bet
is to find someone to show you.
First of all, the easy bit:
1) Remove the outer tyre bead from the rim. Leave the inner bead.
Handy hint. If after placing the first tyre lever you
are unable to fit another in because the tension in the bead is too great
then relax the first, slip the second in and use both together.
2) Pull out the tube finishing at the valve.
3) Inspect the tube, find the puncture and repair it.
Now an important bit:
4) Check tyre for thorns, bits of glass etc - especially at the point where
the hole in the tube was found.
and now a clever bit:
5) Inflate the tube a _minimal_ amount, i.e. just sufficient for it to
hold its shape. Too much inflation and it won't fit inside the tyre.
Too little (including none at all) and you are likely to pinch it.
More important bits:
6) Fit the tube back inside the tyre. Many people like to cover the tube in
copious quantities of talcum powder first. This helps to lubricate
the tyre/tube interface as is of particular importance in high pressure
tyres.
7) Seat the tyre and tube over the centre of the rim.
8) Begin replacing the outer bead by hand. Start about 90 degrees away from
the valve and work towards it. After you have safely passed the valve,
shove it into the tyre (away from the rim) to ensure that you have
not trapped the tube around the valve beneath the tyre wall.
Finally the _really_ clever bit:
9) When you reach the point at which you can no longer proceed by hand,
slightly _deflate_ the tube and try again. Repeat this process until
either the tyre is completely on (in which case congratulations)
or the tube is completely deflated. In the latter case, you will have
to resort to using tyre levers and your mileage may vary. Take care.
and the last important check:
10) Go round the entire wheel, pinching the tyre in with your fingers
to check that there is no tube trapped beneath the rim. If you
have trapped the tube, deduct ten marks and go back to step one.
Otherwise ....
11) Replace wheel and reinflate.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.16 More Flats on Rear Tires
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 10:45:42 PDT
Many sharp objects, especially those that lie flat on the road like
nails and pieces of metal, more often enter rear tires than the front
tires. That is because the front tire upends them just in time for
the rear tire to be impaled on them.
For example, nails seldom enter front tires. When dropped from a
moving vehicle, nails slide down the road, and align themselves
pointing toward traffic, because they prefer to slide head first as
they would when laid on a slope. The front tire rolling over such a
lengthwise nail, can tilt it up just in time for the rear tire to
encounter it on end. I once got a flat from a one inch diameter steel
washer that the front tire had flipped up so that the rear tire struck
it on edge. When following another wheel closely, the front tire can
get the "rear tire" treatment from the preceding wheel.
The front wheel set-up effect is especially true for "Michelin" wires,
the fine strands of stainless wire that make up steel belts of auto
tires. These wires, left on the road when such tires exposes their
belt, cause hard to find slow leaks almost exclusively in rear tires.
When wet, glass can stick to the tire even in the flat orientation and
thereby get a second chance when it comes around again. To make
things worse, glass cuts far more easily when wet as those who have
cut rubber tubing in chemistry class may remember. A wet razor blade
cuts latex rubber tubing in a single slice while a dry blade only
makes a nick.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.17 What holds the rim off the ground?
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
> What forces keep the rim of a wheel with pneumatic tires off the
> ground. It obviously can't be the air pressure because that's acting
> from top as well as from below.
As has been pointed out, the casing walls pull on the rim (or its
equivalent) and thereby support the load. The casing leaves the rim
at about a 45 degree angle, and being essentially a circular cross
section, it is in contact with the rim over its inner quarter circle.
At least this is a good representative model. The visualization may
be simpler if a tubular tire is considered. It makes no difference
whether the tire is held on by glue or is otherwise attaches to the
rim such as a clincher is. Either way the tire is attached to the
rim, a relatively rigid structure.
Under load, in the ground contact zone, the tire bulges so that two
effects reduce the downward pull (increase the net upward force) of
the casing. First, the most obvious one is that the casing pulls more
to the sides than downward (than it did in its unloaded condition);
the second is that the side wall tension is reduced. The reduction
arises from the relationship that unit casing tension is equivalent to
inflation pressure times the radius of curvature divided by pi. As
the curvature reduces when the tire bulges out, the casing tension
decreases correspondingly. The inflated tire supports the rim
primarily by these two effects.
Tire pressure changes imperceptibly when the tire is loaded because
the volume does not change appreciably. Besides, the volume change is
insignificant in small in comparison to the volume change the air has
undergone when being compressed into the tire. In that respect, it
takes several strokes of a frame pump to increase the pressure of a
tire from 100 psi to 101. The air has a low spring constant that acts
like a long soft spring that has been preloaded over a long stroke.
Small deflections do not change its force materially. For convenience
car and truck tires are regularly inflated to their proper pressure
before being mounted on the vehicle.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.18 Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
There are several kinds of dark coatings sold on rims. Each suggests that
added strength is achieved by this surface treatment while in fact no useful
effects other than aesthetic results are achieved. The colored rims just
cost more as do the cosmetically anodized ones. The hard anodized rims do
not get stronger even though they have a hard crust. The anodized crust is
brittle and porous and crazes around spoke holes when the sockets are riveted
into the rim. These cracks grow and ultimately cause break-outs if the
wheel is subjected to moderate loads over time.
There is substantial data on this and shops like Wheelsmith, that build many
wheels, can tell you that for instance, no MA-2 rims have cracked while MA-40
rims fail often. These are otherwise identical rims.
Hard anodizing is also a thermal and electrical insulator. Because heat is
generated in the brake pads and not the rim, braking energy must cross the
interface to be dissipated in the rim. Anodizing, although relatively thin,
impedes this heat transfer and reduces braking efficiency by overheating the
brake pad surfaces. Fortunately, in wet weather, road grit wears off the
sidewall anodizing and leaves a messy looking rim with better braking.
Anodizing has nothing to do with heat treatment and does not strengthen rims.
To make up for that, it costs more.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.19 Reusing Spokes
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
>I just bent my wheel and am probably going to need a new one
>built. Can I reuse my old, 3 months, spokes in the new wheel.
>The guy at the shop gave me some mumbo jumbo about tensioning or
>something.
There is no reason why you should not reuse the spokes of your
relatively new wheel. The reason a bike shop would not choose to do
this is that they do not know the history of your spokes and do not
want to risk their work on unknown materials. If you are satisfied
that the spokes are good quality you should definitely use them for
you new wheel. The spokes should, however, not be removed from the
hub because they have all taken a set peculiar to their location, be
that inside or outside spokes. The elbows of outside spokes, for
instance, have an acute angle while the inside spokes are obtuse.
There are a few restrictions to this method, such as that new rim
must have the same effective diameter as the old, or the spokes will
be the wrong length. The rim should also be the same "handedness"
so that the rim holes are offset in the correct direction. This is
not a fatal problem because you can advance the rim one hole so that
there is a match. The only problem is that the stem will not fall
between parallel spokes as it should for pumping convenience.
Take a cotton swab and dab a little oil in each spoke socket of the
new rim before you begin. Hold the rims side by side so that the
stem holes are aligned and note whether the rim holes are staggered
in the same way. If not line the rim up so they are. Then unscrew
one spoke at a time, put a wipe of oil on the threads and engage it
in the new rim. When they are all in the new rim you proceed as you
would truing any wheel. Details of this are in a good book on
building wheels.
The reason you can reuse spokes is that their failure mode is
fatigue. There is no other way of causing a fatigue failure than to
ride many thousand miles (if your wheel is properly built). A crash
does not induce fatigue nor does it even raise tension in spokes
unless you get a pedal between them. Unless a spoke has a kink that
cannot be straightened by hand, they can all be reused.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.20 Clinchers vs. Tubulars
From: F.J. Brown <F.B...@massey.ac.nz>
D.H....@gdt.bath.ac.uk gave some useful hints on mounting clinchers,
mostly involving the use of copious quantities of baby powder, and
trying to convince me that clinchers aren't difficult to mount, so ease of
mounting isn't a valid reason for preferring tubulars.
wer...@lafcol.lafayette.edu wrote that although average tubulars ride
'nicer' than average clinchers, there are some clinchers around that ride
just as 'nice'. He also said that ease of change isn't a good reason for
preferring tubulars as if you flat in a race, you're either going to swap
a wheel or drop out. He pointed out that tubulars end up costing $20 -
$80 per flat.
er...@cunyvm.cuny.edu gave some of the historic reasons that tubulars were
preferred: higher pressures, lower weight, stronger, lighter rims. Said
that only a few of these still hold true (rim strength/weight, total weight),
but he still prefers the 'feel' of tubulars.
le...@uhifa.ifa.hawaii.edu started this thread with his observations on
clinchers seperated from their rims in the aftermath of a race crash.
st...@alcvax.pfc.mit.edu comments on improperly-glued tubulars posing a threat
to other racers by rolling off, and noted that this couldn't happen with
clinchers.
jbr...@hpl.hp.com agreed with stek, with the additional note that
it is inadequate inflation that often allows tubulars to roll.
Kevin at Buffalo agreed with stek and jobst about tubulars (improperly or
freshly glued) sometimes rolling.
ruh...@turing.toronto.edu says he uses clinchers for cost and convenience.
Clinchers let him carry around a tiny patch kit and some tyre irons, costing
60c, whereas tubulars would require him to carry a whole tyre, and would
cost more.
CONCLUSIONS: THE CLINCHER VS. TUBULAR WAR
Tubulars - used to be capable of taking higher pressures, had lower weight
and mounted onto stronger, lighter rims than clinchers. Clinchers
have now largely caught up, but many cyclists thinking hasn't.
Tubular tyre + rim combination still lighter and stronger.
- are easier to change than clinchers. This matters more to some
people than others - triathletes, mechanical morons and those
riding in unsupported races.
- cost megabucks if you replace them every time you puncture.
***However*** (and none of the North Americans mentioned this)
down here in Kiwiland, we ***always*** repair our punctured
tubulars (unless the casing is cut to ribbons). The process
doesn't take much imagination, you just unstitch the case, repair
the tube in the normal manner using the thinnest patches you can
buy, stitch it back up again and (the secret to success) put a
drop of Superglue over the hole in the tread.
- can roll off if improperly glued or inflated. In this case, you
probably deserve what you get. Unfortunately, the riders behind
you don't.
Clinchers - can be difficult to change (for mechanical morons) and are always
slower to change than tubulars. Most people still carry a spare
tube and do their repairs when they get home.
- are cheaper to run: if you puncture a lot clinchers will probably
still save you money over tubulars, even if you repair your
tubulars whenever possible. Tubulars are only repairable most
of the time, you virtually never write off a clincher casing due
to a puncture.
- have improved immensely in recent years; top models now inflate
to high pressures, and are lighter and stronger than they used
to be. Likewise clincher rims. Some debate over whether
tubulars are still lighter and tubular rims stronger. Probably
depends on quality you select. No doubt that high quality
clinchers/rims stronger, lighter and mor dependable than cheap
tubular/rim combination.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.21 Presta Valve Nuts
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Two points here:
1. The jamb nut holds the stem when pumping so that it does not recede
into the rim when pressing the pump head against the tire. This is
especially useful when the tire is flat (after installing the
tube). It also keeps the stem from wiggling around while pumping.
Removing the nut should present no difficulty unless the threads
have been damaged or the hands are cold. The cold may present a
problem, but then just opening the valve nut on a Presta valve
under such conditions.
2. Breaking off stems with a frame pump comes from pumping
incorrectly. The number of new tubes with broken stems lying along
the road proves that this occurs far too often. To avoid breaking
the stem, the pump head should be be held in the fist so that the
pumping force goes from one hand into the other, not from the pump
into the valve stem. To practice the correct action, hold the pump
head in one hand with the thumb over the outlet, and pump
vigorously letting out no air. All the force goes from one hand
into the other. This is essentially what should take place when
inflating a tire.
It does no good to "get even" with the stupid tube by discarding it
on the road for all to see. Most riders understand how to pump a
tire and see this only as evidence of incompetence rather than a
faulty tube. Besides, this ostentatious behavior constitutes
littering for which the the fine is $1000 in California. Bike
shops should instruct new bike owners about the use of the frame
pump. Along with this there should be some tire patch hints like
don't try to ride a freshly patched tube, carry a spare tube and
always use the spare after patching the punctured tube. Of course
this is a whole subject in itself that should be treated under its
own heading.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.22 Ideal Tire Sizes
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
> I'm getting a custom frame built and wondered what
> people thought of using 26 inch road wheels. Smaller
> wheels ought to be lighter and stronger.
and goes on to list advantages and disadvantages, most of which are less
that important in deciding what size to use. What in fact brought us
the wheel size (700 or 27") that we have is better understood by the
women riders who have a hard time fitting these wheels into their small
bicycle frames. Wheels would be larger than they are if they would fit
the average riders bike, but they don't. So the compromise size is what
we are riding today.
> It seems to me that the most obvious reason for using 27"
> wheels is tradition, but I'm not sure the advantages make
> it worth trying to swim upstream. What do you think?
This line of thought is consistent with the "cost be damned" approach
in bicycling today. The big bucks are spent by people who want the best
or even better than their peers. The more special the better. Riders
consistently spend nearly twice the money for wheels and get worse rims
when they choose anodized ones, whether there is merit to this finish
is of no interest. They cost more so they must be better. How "custom"
can you get than to have wheels no one else on the block has (maybe 25"?).
If enough riders ask for 24", 25" and 26" wheels, manufacturers will up
the price as their product lines multiply and the total sales remain
constant. Tires and spokes will follow as a whole range of sizes that
were not previously stocked become part of the inventory. Meanwhile,
bike frames will come in different configurations to take advantage of
the special wheel sizes. SIzes whose advantages are imperceptibly small
but are touted by riders who talk of seconds saved in their last club TT
or while riding to work.
A larger wheel rides better on average roads and always corners better
because it brings a longer contact patch to the road. A longer contact
averages traction over more pavement and avoids slip outs for lack of
local traction. Visualize crossing a one inch wide glossy paint stripe
with a 27" wheel and an 18" wheel when banked over in a wet turn.
I see this subject arise now and then and it reminds me of the concept of
splitting wreck.bike into several newsgroups. The perpetrators bring the
matter up for many of the wrong reasons.
Ride bike, don't re-invent what has been discarded.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.23 Indexed Steering
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
> In the several years I spent working in a pro shop, I have never
> seen a case of "index steering" (yes, we called it that) that was
> _not_ caused by a "brinelled" headset - one with divots in the
> races. I am 99.999 percent certain that that is your problem. What
> are you going to do if you don't fix it? I suggest that you fix the
> headset even if you sell the bike, as a damaged headset could be
> grounds for a lawsuit if the buyer crashes.
I disagree on two points. First, because you use the term "Brinell"
that conveys a notion as incorrect as the phrase "my chain stretched
from climbing steep hills" and second, because there is no possibility
of injury or damage from "indexed" steering head bearings.
Damage to head bearings seems to be twofold in this case because
properly adjusted steering, can only get looser from dimples and it
cannot be immobilized by them. Therefore, the head adjustment was too
tight. However, dimpling is not caused by impact, but rather by
lubrication failure that occurs while riding straight ahead. This
occurs more easily with a correctly adjusted bearing than with a loose
one that rattles and clunks. Rattling replenishes lubricant between
balls and races that would otherwise not be present. Off road
bicycles suffer less from this malady than road bicycles because it
occurs primarily on long straight descents where no steering motions
that would replenish lubrication occur.
If you believe it comes from hammering the balls into the races, I
suggest you try to cause some dimples by hammering on the underside of
the fork crown of a clunker bike of your choice. Those who hammered
cotters on steel cranks will recall no such dimpling on the spindle,
even though it has a far smaller diameter than the head bearing
although the blows were more severe and direct. No dimples were made.
Ball bearings make metal-to-metal contact only under fretting loads
(microscopic oscillations) while the bearing is not turning. Any
perceptible steering motion will replenish lubricant from the oily
meniscus surrounding the contact patch. Peering over the bars at the
front hub while coasting down a road at 20+ mph you will notice the
fork ends vibrating fore and aft. This motion does not arise at the
fork end, but at the fork crown, as it bends the steer tube. Both
head bearings rotate in fretting motion crosswise to the normal plane
of rotation, as the steer tube bends. Dimples form in the forward and
rearward quadrant of both upper and lower bearings from this fretting.
That they also form in the upper bearing shows they are not directly
load related.
Lubrication failure from fretting causes metal to metal contact to
form microscopic welds between balls and races. These welds
repeatedly tear material from the softer of the two causing the
elliptical milky dimples in the races. Were these brinelling marks
(embossed through force), they would be shiny and smooth. Various
testimonials for the durability of one bearing over another are more
likely caused by the lubricant than the design of the bearing. The
rigidly mounted ball bearing has survived longer as a head bearing
than it should, considering its poor performance record.
Roller bearings of various designs have been tried, and it appears
that they were the ones that finally made obvious that fore and aft
motion was the culprit all along; a motion that roller bearings were
even poorer at absorbing than balls. This recognition lead to putting
spherical seats under the rollers. Although this stopped most of the
dimpling, these bearings did not work well because the cage of needles
tended to shift off center and drag on the housing while the conical
races also shifted causing the bearing to bind.
It appears that a solution was finally found when Shimano bought a
patent from Wilderness Trail Bikes for a ball bearing that combined
the cup and cone ball bearing with the spherical plain bearing.
Today Shimano offers these bearings model called: LX, XT, 600, STX-RC
and Dura Ace. They have a full-complement angular-contact ball
bearing, whose races are sufficiently reentrant to snap permanently
together. They have rubber seals that retain grease for life of the
bearing that is not exposed to weather. The ball bearing is supported
on a spherical steel ring that forms a plain bearing against the
aluminum housing. The plain bearing takes up the otherwise damaging
out-of-plane motion while the ball bearing does the steering. The
bearing is only durable as long as the plain bearing remains properly
greased.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.24 Sidepull, Dual Pivot, and the Delta Brakes
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:03:28 PST
The bicycle brake has seen many variations since the introduction of
the standard single pivot caliper brake about 100 years ago. This
brake, commonly called the side pull, has been the mainstay until a
wave of designs began about 30 years ago. Meanwhile the cantilever
brake with large wheel clearance existed only in a limited way until
the advent of the mountain bike. The need for wide clearance over
large tires favors this brake that pivots from cantilevers on the fork
blades and does not restrict tire clearance. As is often the case,
these advantages are not gained without drawbacks such as fork braking
forces that spread abd jam suspension forks unless a U-shaped stress
plate is used, and the steep angle of motion that causes the pads to
slip under the rim (total brake failure) with pad wear.
Until recently, most brakes had a hand lever ratio (mechanical
advantage) of 4:1, and a caliper or brake arm linkage with a 1:1
ratio, making most brakes and levers interchangeable. From time to
time, brakes have been designed to address certain real or perceived
failings of the common caliper rim brake. Most of these had a novel
linkage that promised a theoretical advantage. One of these, the
centerpull brake of the 1950's, was the rave for nearly a decade, in
spite of being entirely without merit, being worse in all respects
than the side pull brake with which it competed. Its brief popularity
might indicate a dissatisfaction with the status quo.
Servo brakes, that use brake reaction force to reinforce application
force, have been designed without success. These schemes fail for the
reason that a small change in the friction coefficient causes a large
change in braking, making control difficult. With self servo, the
relationship between application force and brake response is non
linear and unpredictable. To escape this self servo effect in drum
brakes, automobiles and motorcycles switched to disk brakes, where the
brake application pressure is at right angles to the braking force.
It is curious that bicycles should try to switch the other way.
For lack of a power source such as cars have, other mechanisms with
variable ratios have been designed for bicycles, one of which was
recently turned into a major blunder for Campagnolo. Campagnolo
introduced the Delta brake (aka Modolo Chronos), whose mechanism is an
equilateral parallelogram with the cable drawing two opposite corners
of a "diamond" together such that the other two corners expand. The
motion can be visualized by placing the tips of the thumbs and
forefingers together to form a diamond, palms nearly together. Moving
the tips of the diamond together at a constant rate demonstrates the
progressive nature of the mechanism and the resulting braking action,
the brake pads being connected by links to the knuckle joints as it
were.
The motion is a tangent function that goes from zero to infinity. An
example of this is the motion of the top of a ladder, leaning steeply
against a wall, as the foot of the ladder moves away from the wall at
a constant rate. At first the the top of the ladder moves
imperceptibly, gradually accelerating, until near the bottom its speed
approaches infinity. Although the Delta does not use the extremes of
this range, it has this characteristic in contrast to a sidepull brake
that has a constant ratio throughout its range.
Although the sidepull brake remains the best performing brake to date,
its major flaw is that the return springs of the single pivot version
make sliding contact with the caliper arms. Because the contact
points are exposed, their friction is uncontrollable and invariably
lead to unequal retraction of the pads so that the brake is usually
off center and tends to drag. To avoid this, the single pivot
sidepull brake requires large pad-to-rim clearance that in turn
prescribes a low overall mechanical advantage of about 4:1 to
accommodate the reach of the human hand.
To offer greater leverage at the same total hand stroke, pad-to-rim
clearance must be reduced, which is only possible if pad position can
be guaranteed. The dual pivot brake achieves this with two pivot
points that define the line of action with two interlinked arms that
are constrained to move equally to remain centered. Precise centering
permits adjusting the pads as close to the rim as wheel trueness
permits. Typically, with minimal free travel, mechanical advantages
of about 5.6:1 are practical.
The higher leverage is not achieved entirely without compromise. The
offset arm (the one on the right) sweeps its pad upward into the tire
so that this pad must be re adjusted as it wears. The brake cannot
track a crooked wheel that, for instance has a broken spoke. Because
it has a high ratio, it does not work at all when the quick release is
accidentally left open, and it changes its hand lever position about
40% faster with pad wear than a single pivot brake.
Part of the light feel of the dual pivot brake arises from the lower
(reverse) ratio of the caliper, whose springs now no longer exert as
strong a return force on the cable and hand lever. Because this force
is lower, a return spring has been added to the hand lever. The lower
cable return force coincidentally reduces cable drag during free
motion of the brake (before making contact with the rim). This makes
the brake feel even more forceful because it has such a light action.
Hydraulic brakes have their own problems that keep them in an almost
invisible presence in general bicycling. Their advocates insist that
they are superior in all respects in spite of their lack of acceptance
by the bicycling public at large.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.25 Seat adjustments
From: Roger Marquis <mar...@roble.com>
[More up to date copies of Roger's articles can be found at
http://www.roble.com/marquis/]
The following method of setting saddle height is not the
only method around for setting your saddle height but it is the
most popular among coaches and riders both here and in Europe.
A) Adjust saddle level or very slightly nose up, no more
than 2mm at the nose.
B) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Have wrench ready
(usually a 5mm Allen).
C) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a
wall. Hold a brake on with one hand (or mount the bike on a
turbo trainer if you have one).
D) Place your HEELS on the pedals, opposite the clip, pedal
backwards at 30+ rpm without rocking your pelvis (very
important).
E) Adjust seat height so that there is about:
E1) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders (-50 mi/wk.),
E2) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders (50+ mi./wk.),
E3) ONE TO ONE AND ONE HALF CM. for endurance cyclists (250+
mi./wk.), between your heel and the pedal. If your soles are
thicker at the cleat than at the heel adjust accordingly.
Don't forget to grease the seat post.
F) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the
feel and possibly stretch the hamstrings and Achilles
slightly.
Roger Marquis (mar...@roble.com)
------------------------------
Subject: 8.26 Cleat adjustments
From: Roger Marquis <mar...@roble.com>
[note: You may also want to consider going to a bike shop that does
Fit Kit and have them do the Fit Kit RAD to adjust your cleats. Many
people recommend it.]
[More up to date copies of Roger's articles can be found at
http://www.roble.com/marquis/]
A) Grease the cleat bolts and lightly tighten.
B) Sitting on the bike, put your feet in the pedals and adjust until:
B1) The ball of your foot is directly above or, more commonly,
slightly behind the pedal axle and:
B2) There is approximately 1 cm. (1/2in.) between your ankle
and the crank arm.
Note: Cleats that are adjusted too far forward on the shoe can
cause excessive ankle movement and strain the Achilles
tendon.
C) Tighten the cleat bolts 80% and go out for a ride. If another
position feels more comfortable rotate your foot into that
position.
D) Carefully remove your shoes from the pedals and tighten the
bolts fully. If you cannot get out of the pedals without
shifting the cleats leave your shoes on the bike and draw an
outline around the cleat.
Roger Marquis (mar...@roble.com)
------------------------------
Subject: 8.27 SIS Adjustment Procedure
From: Bob Fishell <sp...@cbnewsd.att.com>
Shimano's instructions for adjusting SIS drivetrains varies from series
to series. The following method, however, works for each of mine (600EX,
105, and Deore'). [Ed note: Works on Exage road and mtb also.]
Your chain and cogs must be in good shape, and the cable must be free
of kinks, slips, and binds. The outer cable should have a liner.
clean and lubricate all points where the cable contacts anything.
SIS adjustment:
1) Shift the chain onto the largest chainwheel and the smallest cog,
e.g., 52 and 13.
2) WITHOUT TURNING THE CRANKS, move the shift lever back until it
clicks, and LET GO. This is the trick to adjusting SIS.
3) Turn the crank. If the chain does not move crisply onto the next
inside cog, shift it back where you started, turn the SIS barrel
adjuster (on the back of the rear derailleur) one-half turn CCW,
and go back to step 2. Repeat for each pair of cogs in turn
until you can downshift through the entire range of the large
chainwheel gears without the chain hesitating. If you have just
installed or reinstalled a shift cable, you may need to do this
several times.
4) Move the chain to the small chainring (middle on a triple) and the
largest cog.
5) turn the cranks and upshift. If the chain does not move crisply
from the first to the second cog, turn the SIS barrel adjuster
one-quarter turn CW.
If the drivetrain cannot be tuned to noiseless and trouble-free
SIS operation by this method, you may have worn cogs, worn chain,
or a worn, damaged, or obstructed shift cable. Replace as needed
and repeat the adjustment.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.28 Where to buy tools
You can buy tools from many sources. Some tools can be purchased at
your local hardware store (wrenches, socket sets, etc), while the
special bike tools can be purchased from your local bike store or
one of the mail order stores listed elsewhere.
You can buy every tool you think looks useful, or just buy the tools
you need for a particular repair job. Buying the tools as you need
them will let you build up a nice tool set over time without having
to drop a lot of money at once.
Some common tools you will need are:
Metric/SAE wrenches for nuts and bolts (or an assortment of adjustable
wrenches).
Screwdrivers, both flat and phillips.
Metric allen wrenches.
Pliers.
Wood or rubber mallet for loosening bolts.
Special tools and their uses:
Cone wrenches to adjust the hub cones.
Chain tool to take the chain apart for cleaning and lubrication, and
to put it back together.
Tire irons for removing tires.
Spoke wrenches for adjusting spokes.
Cable cutters for cutting cables (don't use diagonal pliers!).
Crankarm tools for removing crankarms.
Bottom bracket tools for adjusting bottom brackets.
Headset wrenches to adjust the large headset nut.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.29 Workstands
There are a variety of workstands available, from about $30 to over
$130. Look at the mail order catalogs for photos showing the different
types. The type with a clamp that holds one of the tubes on the bike
are the nicest and easy to use. Park has a couple of models, and their
clamp is the lever type (pull the lever to lock the clamp). Blackburn
and Performance have the screw type clamp (screw the clamp shut on the
tube.
If you have a low budget, you can use two pieces of rope hanging from
the ceiling with rubber coated hooks on the end - just hang the bike
by the top tube. This is not as steady as a workstand, but will do
an adequate job.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.30 Workstands 2
From: Douglas B. Meade <me...@bigcheese.math.scarolina.edu>
>>>>>>>>>> BICYCLE REPAIR STAND SUMMARY <<<<<<<<<<
The Park PRS6 was recommended by several (>5) responders; all
other models were recommended by no more than one responder.
Park PRS6
PROS: full 360\degree rotation
spring-loaded clamp is adjustable
very stable
CONS: not height adjustable
not easy to transport
clamp probably can't work with fat-tubed mtn bike
COST: ~$150
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops
Park Consumer
PROS: foldable
convenient
portable
CONS: not as stable as PRS6
COST: ~$100
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops
Park BenchMount
PROS: stronger, and more stable, than many floor models
CONS: must have a workbench with room to mount the stand
COST: $???
SOURCE: ???
Blackburn
PROS: The stand folds flat and is portable.
It has a 360 degree rotating clamp.
It is relatively stable.
CONS: crank-down clamp does not seem to be durable
crank bolt is not standard size; difficult to replace
hard to get clamp tight enough for stable use
clamp scratchs paint/finish
problems getting rotating mechanism to work properly
COST: ~$100
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops
Performance
PROS:
CONS: not too stable
Ultimate Repair Stand
PROS: excellent quality
includes truing stand
includes carrying bag
CONS:
COST: ~$225
SOURCE: order through local bike shop
the U.S. address for Ultimate Support Systems is :
Ultimate Support Systems
2506 Zurich Dr.
P.O. Box 470
Fort Collins, CO. 80522-4700
Phone (303) 493-4488
I also received three homemade designs. The first is quite simple:
hang the bike from coated screw hooks
(available in a hardware store for less that $5/pair)
The others are more sophisticated. Here are the descriptions provided
by the designers of the systems.
Dan Dixon <d...@hpfcla.fc.hp.com> describes a modification
of the Yakima Quickstand attachment into a freestanding workstand
I picked up the Yakama clamp and my local Bike shop for
around $25. What you get is the clamp and a long carraige
bolt with a big (5") wing nut. This is meant to be attached
to their floor stand or their roof racks. The roof rack
attachment is ~$60; expensive, but great for road trips.
I, instead, bought a longer carraige bolt, a piece of
3/4" threaded lead pipe, two floor flanges, and some 2x4's.
(about $10 worth of stuff).
You say you want to attach it to a bench (which should be easy)
pipe
+- clamp | wing nut
| | |
V | +--+ V
| |---------+ V | | O
| | | |\_________/| | | /
| | -O- |=| _________ |=| |==I
| | | |/ \| | | \
| |---------+ | | O
| |
/\ /\ | |<-2x4
| | | |
flanges--+---------+ | |
| |
Excuse the artwork, but it might give you and Idea about
what I mean. You could just nail the 2x4 to the bench or
something. I really like the clamp because it is totally
adjustable for different size tubes.
Eric Schweitzer <ER...@cunyvm.cuny.edu> prefers the following
set-up to the Park `Professional' stands that he also has.
My favorite 'stand', one I used for many years, one that I
would use now if my choice of stand were mine, is made very
cheaply from old seats and bicycle chain. Two seats (preferably
cheap plastic shelled seats) (oh...they must have one wire
bent around at the front to form the seat rails...most seats
do) have the rails removed and bent to form 'hooks'. The
'right' kind of hooks are placed in a good spot on the ceiling
about 5 or 6 feet apart. (really, a bit longer than the length
of a 'typical' bike from hub to hub. If you do a lot of tandems
or LWB recombants, try longer :) Form a loop in one end of the
chain by passing a thin bolt through the opening between 'outer'
plates in two spots on the chain. (of course, this forms a loop
in the chain, not the bolt). The same is done at the other end
to form loops to hold the seat rail/hooks. First, form the hooks
so they form a pair of Js, about 2 inch 'hook's The hook for the
front of the bike is padded, the one for the rear looped through
the chain, squeezed together to a single hook, and padded.
To use, hook the rear hook under the seat, or at the seat stays.
Hook the front with each arm on oposite sides of the stem. Can
also hook to head tube (when doing forks). Either hook can grab
a rim to hold a wheel in place while tightening a quick release
skewer or axle bolt. There is no restricted access to the left
side of the bike. I try to get the BB of a 'typical' frame about
waist height.
In closing, here is a general statement that only makes my decision
more difficult:
My best advice is to consider a workstand a long term durable good.
Spend the money for solid construction. Good stands don't wear or
break, and will always be good stands until the day you die, at
which point they will be good stands for your children. Cheese will
always be cheese until it breaks.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.31 Frame Stiffness
From: Bob Bundy <bo...@ico.isc.com>
As many of you rec.bicycles readers are aware, there have been occasional,
sometimes acrimonious, discussions about how some frames are so much
stiffer than others. Cannondale frames seem to take most of the abuse.
The litany of complaints about some bike frames is long and includes
excessive wheel hop, numb hands, unpleasant ride, broken spokes,
pitted headsets, etc. I was complaining to a friend of mine about how there
was so much ranting and raving but so little empirical data - to which
he replied, "Why don't you stop complaining and do the measurements
yourself?". To that, I emitted the fateful words, "Why not, after all,
how hard can it be?". Following some consultation with Jobst and a few
other friends, I ran the following tests:
The following data were collected by measuring the vertical deflection at
the seat (ST), bottom bracket (BB) and head tube (HT) as a result of
applying 80lb of vertical force. The relative contributions of the
tires, wheels, fork, and frame (the diamond portion) were measured using
a set of jigs and a dial indicator which was read to the nearest .001
inch. For some of the measures, I applied pressures from 20 to 270 lbs
to check for any significant nonlinearity. None was observed. The same
set of tires (Continentals) and wheels were used for all measurements.
Note that these were measures of in-plane stiffness, which should be
related to ride comfort, and not tortional stiffness which is something
else entirely.
Bikes:
TA - 1987 Trek Aluminum 1200, this model has a Vitus front fork, most
reviews describe this as being an exceptionally smooth riding bike
SS - 1988 Specialized Sirus, steel CrMo frame, described by one review as
being stiff, hard riding and responsive
DR - 1987 DeRosa, SP/SL tubing, classic Italian road bike
RM - 1988 Cannondale aluminum frame with a CrMo fork, some reviewers
could not tolerate the rough ride of this bike
TA SS DR RM
---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
ST BB HT ST BB HT ST BB HS ST BB HT
diamond 1 1 0 2 2 0 2 2 0 1 1 0
fork 3 11 45 3 9 36 4 13 55 3 10 40
wheels 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
tires 68 52 66 68 52 66 68 52 66 68 52 66
total 74 66 113 75 65 104 76 69 123 74 65 108
What is going on here? I read the bike mags and this net enough to know
that people have strong impressions about the things that affect ride
comfort. For example, it is common to hear people talk about rim types
(aero vs. non-aero), spoke size, butting and spoke patterns and how they
affect ride. Yet the data presented here indicate, just a Jobst predicted,
that any variation in these factors will essentially be undetectable to
the rider. Similarly, one hears the same kind of talk about frames,
namely, that frame material X gives a better ride than frame material Y, that
butted tubing gives a better ride that non-butted, etc. (I may have even
made such statements myself at some time.) Yet, again, the data suggest
that these differences are small and, perhaps, even undetectable. I offer
two explanations for this variation between the data and subjective reports
of ride quality.
Engineering:
These data are all static measurements and perhaps only applicable at the
end of the frequency spectrum. Factors such as frequency response, and
damping might be significant factors in rider comfort.
Psychology:
There is no doubt that these bikes all look very different, especially the
Cannondale. They even sound different while riding over rough
roads. These factors, along with the impressions of friends and reviews
in bike magazines may lead us to perceive differences where they, in fact,
do not exist.
Being a psychologist, I am naturally inclined toward the psychological
explanation. I just can't see how the diamond part of the frame contributes
in any significant way to the comfort of a bike. The damping of the frame
should be irrelevant since it doesn't flex enough that there is any
motion to actually dampen. That the frame would become flexible at
some important range of the frequency spectrum doesn't seem likely either.
On the other hand, there is plenty of evidence that people are often very
poor judges of their physical environment. They often see relationships
where they don't exist and mis-attribute other relationships. For example,
peoples' judgement of ride quality in automobiles is more related to the
sounds inside the automobile than the ride itself. The only way to get
a good correlation between accelerometers attached to the car seat and
the rider's estimates of ride quality is to blindfold and deafen the
rider (not permanently!). This is only one of many examples of mis-
attribution. The role of expectation is even more powerful. (Some even
claim that whole areas of medicine are built around it - but that is
another story entirely.) People hear that Cannondales are stiff and,
let's face it, they certainly *look* stiff. Add to that the fact that
Cannondales sound different while going over rough roads and perhaps
the rider has an auditory confirmation of what is already believed to
be true.
Unless anyone can come up with a better explanation, I will remain
convinced that differences in ride quality among frames are more a
matter of perception than of actual physical differences.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.32 Frame materials
[Ed note: I got this information from some of the books I have. People
in the know are welcome to update this.]
There are several materials that are used to make bicycle frames. They
are:
Mild steel - usually used in cheap department store bikes. Frames
made from mild steel are heavy.
High carbon steel - a higher quality material used in low end bikes.
Reynolds 500 is an example.
Steel alloy - lighter and better riding than high-carbon frames. Reynolds
501 and Tange Mangaloy are examples.
Chro-moly - also called chrome-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum steel.
One of the finest alloys for bike frames. Reynolds 531 and
Columbus SL and SP are some of the best known brands.
Carbon fiber - high tech stuff. Made from space-age materials, frames
made of this are very light and strong. Some problems
have been seen in the connections between the tubes and
bottom bracket, etc.
Aluminum - Light frames, usually with larger diameter tubes.
Cannondale is a well-known brand.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.33 Bike pulls to one side
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
For less than million dollar bikes this is easy to fix, whether it corrects
the cause or not. If a bike veers to one side when ridden no-hands, it
can be corrected by bending the forks to the same side as you must lean
to ride straight. This is done by bending the fork blades one at a time,
about 3 mm. If more correction is needed, repeat the exercise.
The problem is usually in the forks although it is possible for frame
misalignment to cause this effect. The kind of frame alignment error
that causes this is a head and seat tube not in the same plane. This
is not easily measured other than by sighting or on a plane table.
The trouble with forks is that they are more difficult to measure even
though shops will not admit it. It takes good fixturing to align a
fork because a short fork blade can escape detection by most
measurement methods. Meanwhile lateral and in-line corrections may
seem to produce a straight fork that still pulls to one side.
However, the crude guy who uses the method I outlined above will make
the bike ride straight without measurement. The only problem with
this is that the bike may pull to one side when braking because the
fork really isn't straight but is compensated for lateral balance.
This problem has mystified more bike shops because they did not recognize
the problem. Sequentially brazing or welding fork blades often causes
unequal length blades and bike shops usually don't question this dimension.
However, in your case I assume the bike once rode straight so something
is crooked
------------------------------
Subject: 8.34 Frame repair
From: David Keppel <pa...@cs.washington.edu>
(Disclaimer: my opinions do creep in from time to time!)
When frames fail due to manufacturing defects they are usually
replaced under warranty. When they fail due to accident or abuse
(gee, I don't know *why* it broke when I rode off that last
motorcycle jump, it's never broken when I rode it off it before!)
you are left with a crippled or unridable bike.
There are various kinds of frame damage that can be repaired. The
major issues are (a) figuring out whether it's repairable (b) who
can do it and (c) whether it's worth doing (sometimes repairs just
aren't worth it).
Kinds of repairs: Bent or cracked frame tubes, failed joints, bent
or missing braze-on brackets, bent derailleur hangars, bent or
broken brake mounts, bent forks, etc. A frame can also be bent out
of alignment without any visible damage; try sighting from the back
wheel to the front, and if the front wheel hits the ground to one
side of the back wheel's plane (when the front wheel is pointing
straight ahead), then the frame is probably out of alignment.
* Can it be repaired?
Just about any damage to a steel frame can be repaired. Almost any
damage to an aluminum or carbon fiber frame is impossible to repair.
Titanium frames can be repaired but only by the gods. Some frames
are composites of steel and other materials (e.g., the Raleigh
Technium). Sometimes damage to steel parts cannot be repaired
because repairs would affect the non-steel parts.
Owners of non-steel frames can take heart: non-steel frames can
resist some kinds of damage more effectively than steel frames, and
may thus be less likely to be damaged. Some frames come with e.g.,
replacable derailleur hangers (whether you can *get* a replacement
is a different issue, though). Also, many non-steel frames have
steel forks and any part of a steel fork can be repaired.
Note: For metal frames, minor dents away from joints can generally
be ignored. Deep gouges, nicks, and cuts in any frame may lead to
eventual failure. With steel, the failure is generally gradual.
With aluminum the failure is sometimes sudden.
Summary: if it is steel, yes it can be repaired. If it isn't steel,
no, it can't be repaired.
* Who can do it?
Bent derailleur hangers can be straightened. Indexed shifting
systems are far more sensitive to alignment than non-indexed. Clamp
an adjustable wrench over the bent hanger and yield the hanger
gently. Leave the wheel bolted in place so that the derailleur hanger
is bent and not the back of the dropout. Go slowly and try not to
overshoot. The goal is to have the face of the hanger in-plane with
the bike's plane of symmetry.
Just about any other repair requires the help of a shop that builds
frames since few other shops invest in frame tools. If you can find
a shop that's been around for a while, though, they may also have
some frame tools.
* Is it worth it?
The price of the repair should be balanced with
* The value of the bicycle
* What happens if you don't do anything about the damage
* What would a new bike cost
* What would a new frame cost
* What would a used bike cost
* What would a used frame cost
* What is the personal attachment
If you are sentimentally attached to a frame, then almost any repair
is worth it. If you are not particularly attached to the frame,
then you should evaluate the condition of the components on the rest
of the bicycle. It may be cheaper to purchase a new or used frame
or even purchase a whole used bike and select the best components
from each. For example, my most recent reconstruction looked like:
* Bike's estimated value: $300
* Do nothing about damage: unridable
* Cost of new bike: $400
* Cost of new frame: $250+
* Cost of used bike: $200+
* Cost of used frame: N/A
* Cost of repair: $100+
* Personal attachment: zip
Getting the bike on the road again was not a big deal: I have lots
of other bikes, but I *wanted* to have a commuter bike. Since I
didn't *need* it, though, I could afford to wait a long time for
repairs. The cost of a new bike was more than I cared to spend.
It is hard to get a replacement frame for a low-cost bicycle. I
did a good bit of shopping around and the lowest-cost new frame
that I could find was $250, save a low-quality frame in the
bargain basement that I didn't want. Used frames were basically the
same story: people generally only sell frames when they are
high-quality frames. Because the bike was a road bike, I could have
purchased a used bike fairly cheaply; had the bike been a fat-tire
bike, it would have been difficult to find a replacement. The cost
of the frame repair included only a quick ``rattlecan'' spray, so
the result was aesthetically unappealing and also more fragile. For
a commuter bike, though, aesthetics are secondary, so I went with
repair.
There is also a risk that the `fixed' frame will be damaged. I had
a frame crack when it was straightened. I could have had the tube
replaced, but at much greater expense. The shop had made a point
that the frame was damaged enough that it might crack during repair
and charged me 1/2. I was able to have the crack repaired and I
still ride the bike, but could have been left both out the money
and without a ridable frame.
* Summary
Damaged steel frames can always be repaired, but if the damage is
severe, be sure to check your other options. If the bicycle isn't
steel, then it probably can't be repaired.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.35 Frame Fatigue
From: John Unger <jun...@rsg1.er.usgs.gov>
I think that some of the confusion (and heat...) on this subject
arises because people misunderstand the term fatigue and equate it
with some sort of "work hardening" phenomena.
By definition, metal fatigue and subsequent fatique failure are
well-studied phenomena that occur when metal (steel, aluminum,
etc.) is subjected to repeated stresses within the _elastic_ range
of its deformation. Elastic deformation is defined as deformation
that results in no permanent change in shape after the stess is
removed. Example: your forks "flexing" as the bike rolls over a
cobblestone street.
(an aside... The big difference between steel and aluminum
as a material for bicycles or anything similar is that you
can design the tubes in a steel frame so that they will
NEVER fail in fatigue. On the other hand, no matter how
over-designed an aluminum frame is, it always has some
threshold in fatigue cycles beyond which it will fail.)
This constant flexing of a steel frame that occurs within the
elastic range of deformation must not be confused with the
permanent deformation that happens when the steel is stressed beyond
its elastic limit, (e. g., a bent fork). Repeated permanent
deformation to steel or to any other metal changes its strength
characteristics markedly (try the old "bend a paper clip back and
forth until it breaks" trick).
Because non-destructive bicycle riding almost always limits the
stresses on a frame to the elastic range of deformation, you don't
have to worry about a steel frame "wearing out" over time.
I'm sorry if all of this is old stuff to the majority of this
newsgroup's readers; I just joined a few months ago.
I can understand why Jobst might be weary about discussing this
subject; I can remember talking about it on rides with him 20 years
ago....
------------------------------
Subject: 8.36 Weight = Speed?
> I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why heavier
> people roll down hills faster than the little scrawnies like myself.
Surface as well as cross sectional area of an object (a human body)
increases more slowly than its weight (volume). Therefore, wind drag,
that is largely dependent on surface, is proportionally smaller for a
heavier and larger object than a smaller one of similar shape and
composition. A good example is dust at a rock quarry that remains
suspended in the air for a long time while the larger pieces such as
sand, gravel, and rock fall increasingly faster to the ground. They
are all the same material and have similar irregular shapes but have
different weight to surface area ratios, and therefore, different wind
resistance to weight ratios. This applies equally to bicyclists
coasting down hills if other factors such as clothing and position on
the bicycle are similar.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.37 Adjusting SPD Cleats
Six adjustments can be made when setting up SPD cleats. With the foot
parallel to the ground and pointing in the direction of travel, the
adjustments are:
1) Left/right translation
2) Front/back translation
3) Up/down translation
4) Front to back tilt
5) Side to side tilt
6) Azimuth, often called "rotation"
Front to back tilt is adjusted as the bicycle is pedaled since the
pedals themselves rotate freely in this direction.
Some people may need to adjust side to side tilt, but this requires
the use of shims which are not provided and can cause the cleat to
protrude beyond the tread of the shoe. Custom insoles that have
one side slightly thicker than the other may have the same effect
as shims between the cleat and the shoe.
Separate up/down adjustments for each leg may be necessary for
individuals with established leg length differences. To adjust
up/down translation in one shoe use a combination of an insole
and raise or lower the seat. To make small up/down changes
equally in both legs, simply raise or lower the seat.
The usual adjustments for SPD cleats are left/right, front/back,
and Azimuth. Of these Azimuth is the most sensitive. For most
people these three adjustments are sufficient to obtain a
comfortable alignment.
-----------------
Aligning SPD cleats:
Position the cleat so that it lies on the imaginary line between the
bony knob on the inside of your foot at the base of your big toe and
a similar but smaller knob on the outside of the foot at the base of
the smallest toe. Set azimuth so that the pointed end of the cleat
points directly toward the front of the shoe.
If you're switching from clips and straps, and you are satisfied with
your current alignment, use the following alternate method. Position
your SPD shoe fully in the clip of your old pedal and align the cleat
to the spindle of your old pedal. Center the cleat in the X direction,
leaving room to adjust either way should the need arise.
Some people find pedaling more comfortable if their left and right
feet are closer together. This is sometimes called the "Q-factor".
If you prefer to start with a low Q-factor, then move the cleat so that
it is as close as possible to the outside of the shoe. Tighten both
cleat bolts before engaging the pedal.
Adjust the release tension of the pedals so that it is somewhere in
the low to middle part of the tension adjustment range. The higher
the release tension, the harder it will be for you to disengage the
pedals when dismounting. The lower the release tension, the easier it
will be for you to inadvertently pull out of the pedals, especially
when standing and pedaling. If you stand often to power up hills,
consider setting the initial release tension higher as an unwanted
release under these conditions can result in a painful spill. See
the pedal instructions.
Mount your bike on a trainer, if you have one, to make preliminary
cleat and release tension adjustments. Practice engaging and
disengaging the pedals a few times before you take a real ride.
Soon you will find this easy. If you notice that a shoe rubs a
crank or chainstay, adjust left/right translation and azimuth
until the shoe no longer rubs.
As you pedal, you will probably find the initial azimuth
uncomfortable on one or both legs. Notice how your foot would like
to rotate. Adjust the azimuth of the appropriate cleat in the same
direction your foot wants to rotate. For example, if your foot
wants to rotate clockwise, adjust the azimuth of the cleat (when
looking at the bottom of the shoe) clockwise. Start by making
moderate corrections. If you overshoot the adjustment, correct by
half as much.
As you approach optimum azimuth, you may need to ride longer before
you notice discomfort. Take your bike off the trainer, and go for
a real ride! And bring your 4mm allen key.
You may find very small azimuth adjustments difficult to make. This
happens because the cleat has made an indentation in the stiff sole
material (usually plastic, sometimes with a tacky, glue-like
material where a portion of the sole was removed). When you tighten
the cleat after making a small correction, it will tend to slide back
into the old indentation. Try moving the cleat one millimeter or so
to the side or to the front or back, so the cleat can no longer slip
into the old indentation pattern as it is being tightened.
Pain in the ball of your foot can be relieved. One way is by moving
the cleat rearward. Start by moving the cleat about two to three
millimeters closer to the rear of the shoe. Be careful not to change
the azimuth. When pedaling notice how far your heel is from the
crank. After making a front/rear adjustment, check to make sure the
crank-heel distance has not noticeably changed.
Moving a cleat rearward on the shoe has the effect of raising your seat
by a lesser amount for that leg. The exact expression is messy, but
for an upright bike, the effect is similar to raising your seat by
about y/3 for that leg, where y is the distance you moved the cleat to
the rear. For example, if you move your cleat 6 millimeters to the
rear, you might also want to lower your seat by about 2 millimeters.
Remember, though, that unless both cleats are moved rearward the same
amount, your other leg may feel that the seat is too low.
Another way to relieve pain in the ball of the foot is to use a custom
orthotic and/or a padded insole. Most cycling shoes provide poor arch
support and even poorer padding.
After riding for a while with your aligned cleats if you find yourself
pulling out of the pedals while pedaling, you will need to tighten the
release tension. After tightening the release tension the centering
force of the pedals will be higher, and you may discover that the
azimuth isn't optimum. Adjust the azimuth as described above.
On the other hand, if you find you never pull out of the pedals while
pedaling and if you find it difficult or uncomfortable to disengage
the cleat, try loosening the release tension. People whose knees
like some rotational slop in the cleat may be comfortable with very
loose cleat retension.
As with any modification that affects your fit on the bike, get used
to your pedals gradually. Don't ride a century the day after you
install SPDs. Give your body about two or three weeks of gradually
longer rides to adapt to the new feel and alignment, especially if
you've never ridden with clipless pedals before. Several months after
installing SPDs, I occasionally tinker with the alignment.
After performing the above adjustments if you are still uncomfortable,
seek additional help. Some people can be helped by a FitKit. If
you're lucky enough to have a good bike shop nearby, seek their
advice.
-----------------
Tightening cleat bolts:
Tighten cleat bolts until they _begin_ to bind. This will happen when
further tightening produces a vibration or squeal from the cleat.
Tighten no further or you may damage the mounting plate on the inside
of the shoe. After living for a while with a comfortable alignment,
remove each mounting bolt separately, apply blue loctite on the
threads, and reinstall. Should you later find you need to loosen a
bolt to adjust the alignment, you will have to reapply the loctite.
Keeping the Pedal/Cleat interface clean:
Occasionally you may find the pedals suddenly more difficult to
disengage. This usually happens because dirt or other contaminants
get caught in the cleat or pedal mechanism. I have found that a good
spray with a hose quickly and cleanly washes off dust, mud, or other
gunk from the pedal and cleat. You may also wish to spray the pedal
with a light silicone or teflon lubricant.
Acknowledgements:
John Unruh (j...@ihlpb.att.com)
Lawrence You (y...@taligent.com)
-----------------
Case History:
I have sensitive legs--feet, ankles, knees, tendons, etc. If the
cleats aren't aligned properly, I feel it. I took a long time to find
a cleat alignment that was comfortable for long and/or intense rides.
I ride a Bridgestone RB-T, 62cm frame, triple chainring. I wear size
48 Specialized Ground Control shoes--evil-looking black and red
things. They were the only shoes I could find in my size that were
comfortable. When I installed the M737 pedals, I had 175mm cranks.
I set the release tension so that the indicator was at the loose end
but so that I could see the entire nut in the slot.
The azimuth I found most comfortable had both shoes pointing roughly
straight ahead. The ball of my left foot began hurting, so I moved
the left cleat back about 4-6mm. This placed the ball of my foot in
front of the pedal spindle. I did not make any left/right
adjustments.
Unfortunately, on longer rides, the ball of my left foot still hurt,
so I got a pair of custom CycleVac "Superfeet" insoles. I removed the
stock insole from the shoe, and inserted the CycleVac insole. The
CycleVac doesn't have any padding at the ball, and my foot didn't like
the hard plastic sole of the shoe. I had a pair of thin green Spenco
insoles lying around, so I put those under the CycleVacs to provide
some padding. I didn't use the stock insoles because they are too
thick. Finally, the pain was gone! If I remain pain-free for a while
I may try moving the left cleat forward again.
Then I replaced the 175mm cranks with 180mm cranks, and I lowered the
seat 2.5mm. My left foot was still happy, but my right knee began to
complain. Not only that, but my right foot felt as if it was being
twisted to the right (supinating), toward the outside of the pedal.
After fussing with the azimuth of the right cleat, I couldn't find a
satisfactory position, though I could minimize the discomfort.
I moved the right cleat as far as I could to the outside of the shoe,
bringing my foot closer to the crank. I also reduced the release
tension further. The red indicating dots are now just visible. This
helped my knee, but my foot still felt as if it were being twisted,
as if all the force were being transmitted through the outside of the
foot. In addition, my left Achilles Tendon started to hurt at times.
I lowered the seat another couple millimeters. This helped, but I
felt that my right leg wasn't extending far enough. Then I tried
_rotating_ the saddle just a little to the right, so the nose was
pointing to the right of center. This helped. But my right foot
still felt supinated, and my right knee started to hurt again.
I removed the right CycleVac insole and Spenco insole and replaced them
with the original stock insole that provides little arch support.
Bingo. The discomfort was gone. It seems I need the arch support for
the left foot but not for the right foot.
How long will it be before I make another tweak? The saga continues...
-----------------
Copyright 1993, Bill Bushnell. Feel free to distribute this article
however you see fit, but please leave the article and this notice
intact.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.38 Rim Tape Summary
From: Ron Larson <la...@craycos.com>
This is a summary of the experience of riders on the net regarding
various rim tapes, both commercial and improvized. Any additional
comments and inputs are welcome.
RIM TAPE
Rim tape or rim strips are the material that is placed inside a
clincher rim to protect the tube from sharp edges of the nipple holes
and possibly exposed ends of spokes extending beyond the nipples. Many
materials have been used to produce rim tapes: plastic, rubber, tapes
consisting of a multi-directional fiber weave, duct tape and fiberglass
packing tape.
A few factors influence how well a rim tape works. Some of the tapes
are available in more than one width. It is important to choose the
width that provides the best fit to cover the entire "floor" of the rim
as opposed to a tape that is barely wide enough to cover the nipple
holes. Another factor is how well the rim tape withstands the stress of
being stretched over the nipple holes with a high preassure inner tube
applying preassure to it. The main form of failure of the plastic tapes
is for the tape to split lengthwise (in the direction the tube lies in
the rim) under high preassure forming a sharp edge that the tube
squeezes through and then rubs against. Thus the splitting tape causes
the flat that it was supposed to be protecting against.
REVIEW OF RIM TAPES BY TYPE
Plastic Tapes
Advantages:
Easy to install and remove. No sticky side is involved.
Disadvantages:
Although there are exceptions, they are prone to splitting under
preassure.
Michelin Good Experiences: 0 Bad Experiences: 6
Cool Tape Good Experiences: 2 Bad Experiences: 0
Cool Tape is thicker than other plastic tapes and does not exhibit
the splitting failure noted above.
Hutchinson Good Experiences: 0 Bad Experiences: 2
Specialized Good Experiences: 1 Bad Experiences: 4
Rubber Tapes
Advantages:
Easy to install and remove. Good if the nipples are even with the rim
floor and there are no exposed spoke ends.
Disadvantages:
Stretch too easily and allow exposed nipple ends to rub through the
tape and then through the tape.
Rubber strips Good Experiences: 0 Bad Experiences: 2
Cloth tapes woven of multi-directional fibers:
Advantages:
Easy to install. Do not fail under preassure.
Disadvantages:
They are a sticky tape and care must be taken not to pick up dirt if
they need to be removed and re-installed.
Velox Good Experiences:11 Bad Experiences: 0
Velox rim tape comes in three different widths. Be sure to get the
widest tape that covers the floor of the rim without extending up the
walls of the rim. The stem hole may need to be enlarged to allow the
stem to seat properly. Otherwise the stem may push back into the tube
under preassure and cause a puncture at the base of the stem.
Non-commercial rim tapes
Fiberglass packing tape (1 or 2 layers)
Advantages:
Cheap. Readily available. Easy to install.
Disadvantages:
Impossible to remove. If access to the nipples is required, the tape
must be split and then either removed and replaced or taped over.
Fiberglass packing tape Good Experiences: 1 Bad Experiences: 1
Duct tape (hey, someone tried it!!)
Advantages:
CHEAP. Readily available.
Disadvantages:
Useless. Becomes a gooey mess that is impossible to remove.
Duct tape Good Experiences: 0 Bad Experiences: 1
CONCLUSION
While plastic tapes are easy to work with, they often fail. The clear
winner in this survey is the Velox woven cloth tape. A quick review of
mail order catalogs confirms the experiences of the net. Velox was
available in 5 out of 5 catalogs checked. It was the only rim tape
available in 3 of the catalogs. The other 2 had one or two plastic
tapes available. (None sold duct tape...)
One good suggestion was a preassure rating for rim tapes much like the
preassure rating of tires.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.39 STI/Ergo Summary
From: Ron Larson <la...@craycos.com>
This is the second posting of the summary of STI/Ergo experience. The
summary was modified to include more on STI durability and also the
range of shifting avaliable from each system. As before, I am open to
any comments or inputs.
lars
THE CASE FOR COMBINED SHIFTERS AND BRAKES.
Shifters that are easily accessible from either the brakehoods or the
"drop" position are an advantage when sprinting or climbing because the
rider is not forced to commit to a single gear or loose power / cadence
by sitting down to reach the downtube shifters. They also make it much
easier to respond to an unexpected attack.
At first the tendency is to shift more than is necessary. This tendency
levels out with experience. There is also an early tendency to do most
shifting from the bakehoods and the actuators seem to be difficult to
reach from the drop position. This discomfort goes away after a few
hundred miles of use (hey, how many times have I reached for the
downtube on my MTB or thumbshifters on my road bike???). All
experienced riders expressed pleasure with the ability to shift while
the hands were in any position, at a moments notice.
The disadvantages are extra weight, added weight on the handlebars
(feels strange at first) and expense. Lack of a friction mode was
listed as a disadvantage by a rider who had tried out STI on someone
elses bike but does not have Ergo or STI. It was not noted as a problem
by riders with extended Ergo / STI experience. A comparison of the
weight of Record/Ergo components and the weight of the Record
components they would replace reveals that the total weight difference
is in the 2 to 4 ounce range (quite a spread - I came up with 2 oz from
various catalogs, Colorado Cyclist operator quoted 4 oz of the top of
his head). The weight difference for STI seems to be in the same
range. The change probably seems to be more because weight is shifted
from the downtube to the handlebars.
There was some concern from riders who had not used either system
regarding the placement of the actuating buttons and levers for Ergo
and STI and their affect on hand positions. Riders with experience have
not had a problem with the placement of the actuators although one
rider stated that the STI brakehoods are more comfortable.
ADVANTAGES OF EACH SYSTEM.
The Sachs/Ergo system was mentioned as a separate system. In fact
(according to publications) it is manufactured By Campagnolo for Sachs
and is identical to the Campagnolo system with the exception of spacing
of the cogs on the freewheel/cassette. With the Ergo system, all
cables can be routed under the handlebar tape while the STI system does
not route the derailleur cables under the tape. Those that voiced a
preference liked the clean look of the Ergo system.
Both Ergo and STI seem to be fairly durable when crashed. Experience
of riders who have crashed with either system is that the housings may
be scratch and ground down but the system still works. The internal
mechanismsof both systems are well protected in a crash.
Both Ergo and STI allow a downshift of about 3 cogs at a time. This
capability is very handy for shifting to lower gears in a corner to be
ready to attack as you come out of the corner or when caught by
surprise at a stop light. Ergo also allows a full upshift from the
largest to the smallest cog in a single motion while STI requires an
upshift of one cog at a time.
Riders voiced their satisfaction with both systems. While some would
push one system over the other, these opinions were equally split.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.40 Roller Head Bearings
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Roller head bearings provided an advantage that is not directly
connected with rollers. However, compound ball and plain bearings
have recently replaced rollers as is described in the item on "Indexed
Steering". The main advantage of rollers was that they have two
bearings in one that is important because the bearing must accomplish
two functions. The problem of the head bearing is so obscure, that
until recently, no one had taken into account that head bearing is
subjected different motion than is apparent.
The bearing serves as a hinge about which the front wheel assembly
rotates, but it also absorbs another motion, and this is the problem.
As the bicycle rolls over roughness, the fork absorbs shock mostly by
flex just above and below the fork crown that makes it rotate fore and
aft about a horizontal axis. The motion can be seen by sighting over
the handle bars to the front hub while rocking the bicycle fore and
aft with the front brake locked. This is what occurs when rolling
down a paved road but with much smaller amplitude.
The angles through which the fork crown swivels are extremely small in
contrast to the relative motion at the hub because the distance
between the hub and the fork crown is large. This motion is not in
itself damaging to the bearing because it is only a small misalignment
that cup and cone ball bearings absorb easily. The damage occurs when
these small motions occur when there are no steering motions to
replenish lubricant while the bearing balls fret in place. Fretting
breaks down the lubricant film on which the balls normally roll and
without which they weld to the races and tear out tiny particles.
Because rollers could not absorb these motions, they were equipped
with spherical backing plates hat could move in that direction. This
was the contribution rollers made before they were replaced by ball
bearings that had this same feature. Balls, in contrast to rollers,
stay in alignment and do not bind up from sliding off center as
rollers often did.
See item on "Indexed Steering".
------------------------------
Subject: 8.41 Tubular Tire Repair
From: Jobst Brandt <jbr...@hpl.hp.com>
Opening the Tire
To patch the tube, you must get into the tire and this requires
opening the casing by peeling the base tape back and unstitching the
seam. If this is a seamless tire, chuck it. There are two types of
seams, zipper stitch (using one thread) and two thread stitch. The
zipper stitch is identified by having only one thread. It appears to
make a pattern of slanted arrows that points in the direction in which
it can be 'unzipped'.
Never open more tire than is necessary to pull the tube out of the
casing. Remember, the tube is elastic and can be pulled out of a
three cm long opening pretty well. Even if there are two punctures
not too far apart, the tube can be pulled out of a nearby opening. If
you must insert a boot, you'll need to open about 6 cm or about the
length of the boot and a little bit more.
Base Tape
Never cut the base tape because it cannot be butt joined. Always pull
it to one side or separate it where it is overlapped. Don't cut the
tire seam, because it takes more time to pull out the cut stitches
than to pull out the thread in one piece. When working on the stem,
only unstitch on one side of the stem, preferably the side where the
machine finished. Use latex to glue down loose threads on a sidewall
cut. Coat the exposed casing zone that is to be covered by the base
tape and the base tape with latex emulsion, allow to partially dry and
put the tape in place. Put the tire on a rim and inflate hard.
Zipper Stitch
Cut the thread at some convenient place at the upstream end of the
intended opening and with a blunt awl, like a knitting needle, pull
out several stitches in the direction the stitch pattern points. When
enough thread is free to pull on, the stitching can be opened like a
zipper. When enough seam is open, thread the loose end through the
last loop and pull tight, to lock the zipper. Don't cut off the free
end because it is often good enough to re-sew the seam.
Two Thread Stitch
One of the threads makes a zig zag as it locks the other thread where
it penetrates the tire casing. Cut both threads near the middle of
the opening and, with a blunt awl like a knitting needle, pull out
only the locking thread in both directions, stitch at a time. The
locking thread is the one that is easier to pull out. Remove as many
stitches as the opening requires. The other thread pulls out like a
zipper. Tie a square knot with the loose ends at both ends of the
opening and cut off the rest.
Patching
Patch butyl (black) tubes using patches from a bicycle patch kit.
To patch a latex tube make patches from an old latex tube that are
fully rounded and just large enough to cover the hole plus five mm.
For instance, a thorn hole takes a 10 mm diameter patch. Use Pastali
rim glue (tire patch glue also works but not as well) wiped thinly
onto the patch with your finger. Place the patch on the tube
immediately and press flat. Latex will pass the volatile solvent
allowing the glue to cure rapidly with good adhesion to the tube.
Casing Repair
Repairing tubular tires requires latex emulsion. You can get it from
carpet layers, who usually have it in bulk. You must have a container
and beg for a serving. If you are repairing a tubular you probably
ride them, and therefore, will have dead ones lying around. The best
tubulars generally furnish the best repair material.
Most cuts of more than a few cords, like a glass cut, require a
structural boot. For boot material, pull the tread off a silk sprint
tire, unstitch it and cut off the bead at the edge of the fold. Now
you have a long ribbon of fine boot material. Cut off a 50cm long
piece and trim it to a width that just fits inside the casing of the
tire to be booted from inside edge of the bead (the folded part) to
the other edge.
The boot must be trimmed using a razor blade to a thin feathered edge
so that the tube is not exposed to a step at the boot's edge,
otherwise this will wear pinholes in a thin latex tube. Apply latex
to the cleaner side of the boot and the area inside the tire,
preferably so the boot cords are 90 degrees from the facing tire
cords. Insert the boot and press it into place, preferably in the
natural curve of the tire. This makes the the boot the principal
structural support when the tire is again inflated, after the boot
cures. If the casing is flat when the boot is glued, it will stretch
the casing more than the boot upon inflation. After the boot dries,
and this goes rapidly, sew the tire.
Tube Replacement
To replace the entire tube, open the tire on one side of the stem, the
side that seems to be easier to re-sew after the repair. Open about
eight to ten cm the usual way, so that the old tube can be pulled out
by the stem. Cut the tube and attach a 1/16" thick nylon cord to the
loose end of the tube to be pulled through the casing as you pull the
old tube out.
Cut the "new" latex tube about 5 cm away from the stem, tie the cord
onto the loose end and pull it gently into the casing. Dumping some
talc into the casing and putting talc onto the tube helps get the tube
into place. With the tube in place, pull enough of it out by
stretching it, to splice the ends together.
Splicing the Tube
This procedure only works with latex tubes. Overlap the tube ends so
the free end goes about one cm inside the end with the stem. With the
tube overlapped, use a toothpick to wipe Pastali rim cement into the
interface. The reason this MUST be done in place is that the solvent
will curl the rubber into an unmanageable mess if you try this in free
space. Carefully glue the entire circumference and press the joint
together by pressing the tube flat in opposing directions. Wait a
minute and then gently inflate to check the results. More glue can be
inserted if necessary if you do not wait too long.
Sewing the Tire
Sewing machines make holes through the bead that are straight across
at a regular stitch interval. For best results, you must use the
original stitch holes when re-sewing. Get a strong thread that you
cannot tear by hand and a (triangular) needle from a Velox tubular
patch kit (yes I know they are scarce). Make the first stitch about
one stitch behind the last remaining machine stitch and tie it off
with a noose knot.
With the beads of the tire pressed against each other so that the old
holes are exactly aligned, sew using a loop stitch pulling each stitch
tight, going forward two holes then back one, forward two, back one,
until the seam is closed. This is a balanced stitch that uses one
thread and can stretch longitudinally.
Now that you know everything there is to know about this, get some
practice. It works, I did it for years.
Merle Fausnaugh
test postMike Iglesias wrote:
>